A/C upgrade/install, questions, 13x6 sealed,co2

[MagniKhan]

Still waiting on the nitrogen tank and regulator, but I did receive the flow gauge. I'll put up some pics when I set up the nitrogen tank for purging.

I did get the intake, filter and stand combo mostly done and rough fitted.
I used some Uni-strut and all-thread for the stand and 1/2" plywood sealed with mastic for the filter/intake set up. I went to Home depot and procured some "z" bracket to use for the filter bracket.
I just need to add the rubber to the bottom and a gasket to the top and it's done.
Next, the plenum. I decided to use 1/2"Rmax instead of duct board or metal based on the fact it's real easy to work with, cheap and seeing as it won't be mounted out of the way I can change it out if needed. I'll also make a duct to move some of the air to the back of the room, but I'll have to wait till I change out the light mover and mount the Co2 burner.

1/2" plywood sealed with a/c duct mastic, made for two 20x16x1 filters.


Uni-Strut stand.



"Z"bracket filter frame rough in.



Guide for the back inside part of filter combo spring. Holds filter nice and keeps it from hitting the back of the filter when changing it out.


Backside

 

[MagniKhan]

Rough fitted with air handler on top.



Front view of filter frame and stand.

 

[Puscifer]

Lookin pro

 

[MagniKhan]

Lookin pro

Thanks!

Well the compressor arrived and HOLY SHIT , it is HUGE.

It's three foot seven inches tall, easily twice as tall a the 13 SEER unit. Years back my A/C guy told me that the newer more efficient units were bigger, but wow.

I put the bucket on top for scale.

 

[MagniKhan]

The nitrogen tire tank set has arrived, tank filled (swapped out) and modified.
I used a 1/4" FL (flair) X 1/4" MIP ( Male 1/4") to attach my Flow meter to the regulator where I removed the hose for the tire fill. Regulators are not really affected by the angle they are set at, flow meters are and must be pretty much straight up and down, that is why I have it set like that in the pics.
The bottom of the flow gauge will attach one of my gauge set lines and to a schrader valve (valve removed) tap on the unit.






Tomorrow I'll rough in the electricity and the line set, place the air handler and the compressor.

 

[Puscifer]

Watching intently my man, I have full on split system install in my future.

 

[MagniKhan]

I've gotten the electric,line set and the air handler in place. I pulled a 10/3 for the compressor,12/2 for the handler and some 16/4 I had for the thermostat.
As I intend this to be a guide to others, make sure that you check and use the right size wire for your load and distance. If I had run the 10/3 thrity feet more I would have had to use #6 wire. Also the air handler won't have heat so the 12/2 is sufficient for the load and distance, if your are north and for some reason need more heat a much larger wire would be needed for the handler.

Downside to the upgraded compressor unit is it's much larger and so had to move about 8' feet from where I had originally planed. So my line set is now a bit short.

I picked up the 10' of ACR line from my local plumbing supply house. You must use ACR line and fittings, 3/4" type L is not 3/4" OD, it's more like 7/8"OD.
3/4" ACR is 3/4" OD.

Here's the line coming through a vent hole in a bathroom ceiling, and into the box.





Still some foam and taping to be done. Thats a fresh water line on top for the rez and a drain pipe on the bottom (it has a healthy P trap to maintain air tightness).

This is my panel with ballast, timer, etc.


And the current A/C and air cooling for the hoods.



I'll get some pics of the handler and install info tomorrow.

 

[Puscifer]

 

[whatthe215]

wow great detailed info, thanks.

very clean setup you've got too.

 

[MagniKhan]

wow great detailed info, thanks.

very clean setup you've got too.

Thanks!.

OK, the lines are welded and pressure/bubble tested. The nitrogen tank was worth it's weight in gold, without it I would not have found a few small leaks!
Using Oxy/Ac was tough and on top of that being experienced in other types of welding and soldering I didn't practice. Damn near fucked up the coil removing the cap from the suction line. I used a pair of pliers to remove the cap while heating it. The cap was bit snug and I deformed the tube a bit before it came off. I recommend using a screw driver to pop it off as opposed to grabbing it with pliers when opening the suction side.

A turbo torch might be better for those that don't have experience and or don't have a future need for a Oxy/Ac unit. The torch is about the same cost and the acetylene tank should be around $20-$40 to lease. It was $20 to swap my small tank.

I'm currently running a vacuum on the system now. Tonight or tomorrow I'll post some videos that helped me the most. I didn't see the need to make my own when others have already done a great job, and really, I'm not comfortable showing the other side of my house.

Once I'm done with the wiring I will post any useful information and go over how I added the a couple of relays to switch the unit from stage I to stage II.

Fingers Crossed here in tha' dirty south,
MK

 

[MagniKhan]

98% done and working great!( the A/C part that is)

As mentioned in earlier post here some links that helped me and or have info needed to figure this all out.

Brazing:

This one has a few good tip and pointers.
http://hvacwebtech.com/brazing.htm

I really like the one's done by "Fritz" like these two.
http://youtu.be/R3hi7iAfpkY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=ipO73iLs4co


Pressure Testing/Testing for Leaks:

I also recommend that you watch all of the install in the "Over All" links, one of them shows a helper doing a "bubble test", it's a must while you have 100 psi of nitrogen on the lines. Just mix some dish soap in water and wipe on your welds. If you see any bubbles getting bigger or forming you have a leak.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=ipO73iLs4co

Vacuum:

A good read about why and what your doing.
http://www.hvacfun.com/a-how-to-pull-a-vacuum.htm

In this second one he says " I'm holdin' 95 pounds, means I've got no leaks so I'm going to dunp my nitrogen...", do not dump your nitrogen and declare it leak free till you've done a bubble test.
http://youtu.be/pn_XttuMYQM

The instruction guides all call for you to bring the system down to @ 200 microns and hold for 10 mins or so. I didn't get a "Micro meter" and just winged it after running my vacuum on it for about 2.5 hours. The reading on my gauge read -29hg ( though it's not accurate enough for reading microns) and held it for hour.
I then released my charge into the system under a vacuum by opening the valves on the unit.

Thermostat info:

the Red wire is 28v
the Green wire is Indoor fan
the Yellow wire is Compressor
the White wire is Heat
the Orange wire is the SOV (switch over valve) for heat pumps
the Black wire is Emergency or Secondary Heat " " "

Jumper what you want to happen to the Red wire. e.g.

Red to Green and Yellow for normal air-conditioner to run.

Charging:

This first one is very important when charging r410a!
http://youtu.be/wZ8ayD1g4c0
This one shows you how to install a gauge set and PURGE IT!!
http://youtu.be/MVKFDA9rg2g
Some people give this guy shit for not purging the lines but I founds his explanation of how to do this very helpful.
http://youtu.be/lwS_mHFXc4o

Superheat and Subcooling:

http://youtu.be/Z6mUZIiSdUw

Over All:

I would watch these vids and study what is going on, a few of them I watch more then once.

http://youtu.be/pn_XttuMYQM

http://youtu.be/E8GVBvVy05Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CDPmOiTvnM&feature=share&list=PL866564F912419F83


I'll go over this thread and make sure I didn't leave anything out and post some pics in the next day or so.
Also I've got my Sentinel CHHC.4 on the way. I'll get that tide in with the A/C, dehumidifier ( if needed) and of course the burner.

Busier then a one legged man in a ass kicking contest,
MK.

 

[MagniKhan]

Here's a couple of shots of the unit installed. The thermostat is just temporary, the Co2 controller will control the A/C.



I added these toggle switches for the blower speed and stage I / stage II on the compressor unit. I just drilled out two holes in the cover that were there for the manufacture tag.
Once I get the controller I will add some relays so it can handle it all automatically.



And a quick shot of the room, I've let it thin out so I can install the panda film. It's will make the third "sealed" barrier,so between new gaskets on the door,removing the old A/C and hood cooling lines ( already out, and the glass removed on the hoods) it should be about as air tight as I'm gonna get it.
The old A/C is on the right.




MK

 

[Coba]

that'll keep them cool... nice build out MK.

 

[Morcheeba*]

nice job and write up.


peace

 

[Puscifer]

So how's the room running? Are you still running 3200 watts in flower? (Cant' tell from that last pic)

 

[MagniKhan]

So how's the room running? Are you still running 3200 watts in flower? (Cant' tell from that last pic)

It's running superb.
And yes,all 3200w's open hoods and four flame burner (it don't run much, but more on that later)

I'm replacing the current two light mover with a a four light tomorrow( technically today, as I'm posting this after midnight). I've have the two 1000w on the mover and the tow 600w's on the ends.
Now all four will run on a mover in a much more efficient configuration then before. This should allow me to spread my girls out some more.
I never really see or hear the cO2 generator, and when I'm in the box trimming the cO2 rises quite a bit so it nicely sealed.
All the early attention to that while it was being built, hell designed, is paying off.

Tomorrow when I change out the mover I will take some pics of the Dehumidifier, the mover, and some of the girls.

I've been standing on the shoulders of giants, and for that I'm thankful. It's made dialing this unit in a pleasure.

As for the A/C , it run's 5x5. And I've never needed to switch it out of stage one and the blower is on it's slowest setting. I did add a 120v relay to integrate the A/C thermostat to the controller, so I'll get some pics of that also. Turn a few leaves purple getting the temp and vent right. I also added two new fans and RnR'ed the present one..for better ..everything.
The controller now handles the A/C, Dehumidifier, and of course the burner.

I don't have many pic's of the box being built as there was an accident with the pics. But here are the only ones that I have, it's come a long way.

 

[MagniKhan]

Here's the new light mover in, it's needed a few modifications to make it narrower, but other then that it was a breeze to install.
Well working in a full room made it a pain in the ass, but the mover kit it self was nice.

The track and the drive are much wider, so it's nice and stable. The ladies all looked happy this AM.









Here's one of the dehumidifier and the burner.



Today I'm redoing the ducts for the A/C, I just used flex till I could get the larger mover in, that way I didn't have to tear it out to fit it in.

 

[MagniKhan]

I meant to get this posted the other day.
for those don't know or haven't seen them, this is the two different rails for the light movers.

They are both upside down. The rail hangs from "U" brakets, it was really a breeze to install.

 

[Lee Van Kief]

good lord mag, I had no idea at all you were doing it like that bro, respect

 

[MagniKhan]

good lord mag, I had no idea at all you were doing it like that bro, respect

Thanks, just doin' my part.

Finally got the duct in to help distabute the air a little better and to get some over to my new veg box add on.



Here's one snapped of the panel.