Powdery Mildw, early flowering!

[old grunt]

Hi Greenops did you get my reply? Being my age (over 65 now) I'm not very good on this dam machine.

 

[greenops]

Hi Greenops did you get my reply? Being my age (over 65 now) I'm not very good on this dam machine.

yes it did get it. Thanks OG!

Problem is, I was only able to find hydrogen peroxide at the pharmacy here, where they sell a small bottle of 3% for the equivalent of 10 usd. I've read somewhere where a grower used 3 parts water and 1 part hydro peroxide. U think that will work?

 

[old grunt]

WOW amazing the price difference for little things around this globe.What I would try is spray one spot with it undiluted, than cut it by half if it works near as well as undiluted then cut it by half again, spray again see how that works. GOOD LUCK Old Grunt

 

[old grunt]

Greenops, sitting and thinking about it, and I don't think it wil be cost effective for you, because I went thru about 10 qts. in the three weeks that I used it. Sorry, Old Grunt

 

[stasis]

Thanks for your elaborate post Stasis!

Were u referring to Safer Garden when u said:

DO NOT SPRAY THE HAIRS (pistils). They will burn and turn brown prematurely. Lowering the value of your hard work.

If you are up to the 3rd week of flowering, you are only going to get one maybe two shots at this. ??

Because later on you said I can sulfur spray once a week? So I'm not sure when to stop applying the sulfur spray.


I spoke to a guy working at a local hydro store. He advised against the use of sulfur burner as it wouldn't be as efficient in a smaller tent. He recommended that I should use another fungicide product that stops the spread and kills spores. So I'm looking at combining that product, with sulfur spray and hydro peroxide.

My question regarding hydro peroxide... can it be used during the light cycle? I was told to do it during lights out as it may burn the plant.

No Worries, I also write and design an MJ Growing Blog, so any posts that I write on IC that seem like info I'd like to pass on to the Internet growing kingdom, I publish it there too.


So, in answer, SAFER GARDEN FUNGICIDE is the full name. The "Concentrate" is a far better value than the 'ready-to-use.'

I am comfortable using it til the fourth week or so, while not spraying any hairs. Then if the Humidity is controlled and the TEMPERATURE DIFFERENTIAL is not more than 15-20 degrees in the room, you will buy yourself 3 weeks to a month of mildew free... Just in time to harvest.

A Sulphur Burner in a tent would absolutely kick pm'S ass...! I cannot understand this Salesman's reasoning. Just be careful with the after heated Sulphur Prills as I said above, that shit can really mess One up.

In a tent, I'd run it for no more than 45 mins-1 hour, and right before lights out, (5 minutes before dark, then no need to interrupt the light cycle at all). All sprays, also should be performed right before or right after lights go out, or you'll burn the leaves with little holes. The water droplets act as a magnifying glass with the strong light thru it, and create a hole. .

Peroxide with Sulphur is a BAD idea. You are "reinventing the wheel," something a lot of growers try to do. Something I counsel Never to do when I teach classes, especially in the first few years of growing. Crop Failures are unacceptable. Just go with the Sulphur, it's enough. It is made for the problem you have.. HS is not really effective, from what I have seen. Perhaps it was the concentration of the HS that was not adequate.

We do not know how HS will react with Sulphur, and I would not want to be a guinea pig with my investment.

I bought a large jug of STYLET OIL from a place in Florida a few years ago, to combat greenhouse PM, then forgot I had it for 4 years. What a waste. Figured it was no longer good.

Heard GREAT things about it though. So, LAPIDES.. It works, eh..?
Good Luck.

 

[GreenGuySF]

+1 for sulfur.
Is best used preventatively and not too late in flowering.
Don't spray anything afterwards, or you'll be washing the sulfur off.
How it works is by making the pH of the leaves unfriendly to the spores.

You can build your own burner for super cheap: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=2248487

The powdery mold you see is only the reproductive structure of the fungi.
When you see that, it means the fungi is already systemically active inside the plant and all you can do is keep it under control.

Like mentioned by statis if the RH, temps, and nite time diff are in line you can get it in check without much trouble.

And if going with a foliar spray definitely do just a few flowers first & see what happens cause yea, like others mention, you can burn the bud easily and ruin all your hard work.

Thanks.

 

[stasis]

I never spray directly on flowers after the pistils form. (about 10 days into 12/12)..

Yes, it is systemic. So if ya got it, all you can do is buy time. Certain strains are REALLY bad (OG Kush, Master Kush - for some reason my C99 x Panama Red #2 - only) . Others not at all, and everything in between. It is an enviornmental issue, as well as direct physical contamination.