Help me with my worm bin ....
- Thread starter OZZ_
- Start date
Not sure that the type of sand is too critical. The finer grades would be my choice.
I haven't put any paper in mine other than some of the all natural, non-bleached coffee filters. Don't forget that coffee grounds are a good addition. Really, if you can find some compost and or peat (something that has some fiber to it), you really don't need a "bedding material" specifically. They will bed in compost, peat, LEAF matter. Leafs are a real favorite for the wigglers.
I haven't put any paper in mine other than some of the all natural, non-bleached coffee filters. Don't forget that coffee grounds are a good addition. Really, if you can find some compost and or peat (something that has some fiber to it), you really don't need a "bedding material" specifically. They will bed in compost, peat, LEAF matter. Leafs are a real favorite for the wigglers.
I found the 10 gallon totes perfect. I am 11 totes high. Each tote rests the weight on the one below with the handles and holds about 2 cf of material. Like Azeotrope says those Euros are on all levels. The Wiggler's stay mostly on top but they too have taken all levels of my bins. A variety is helpful and if you already have RW's you can get some Euros at the local Wallyworld. I am about to invest in african nightcrawlers soon. My end goal is 24 (two stacks of 12) totes with 1 tote to harvest every 2 weeks in slightly less than a year from now.
Like they said above the worms eat the bacteria that are breaking down the compost. Juicer scraps will go quickly. You could always keep the two 18 gallon totes in action and use some of it for starter to mix in with better material in the new system. Also remember what you feed the bin is what you will get out of it for nutrient and plant health benenfits.
* I kept my side vents below the line on the middle of the tote and above the 2" casting line and put them in a zigzag pattern. I used a 1/2" spade bit for all the holes in all the tubs except the bottom most tub which is about 1/16" inch hand punched holes all over the place like a mesh screen.
Greensand, Gypsum, Kelp, Crab Meal, Glacial Rock Dust, Azomite, Oyster Shell, Neem or Karanja cake, fruit scraps processed in a blender or from a juicer no bannana peels they are heavily sprayed with pesticides from what I understand. I like to throw in a colloidial oatmeal bath packet or corn meal at times.
Like they said above the worms eat the bacteria that are breaking down the compost. Juicer scraps will go quickly. You could always keep the two 18 gallon totes in action and use some of it for starter to mix in with better material in the new system. Also remember what you feed the bin is what you will get out of it for nutrient and plant health benenfits.
* I kept my side vents below the line on the middle of the tote and above the 2" casting line and put them in a zigzag pattern. I used a 1/2" spade bit for all the holes in all the tubs except the bottom most tub which is about 1/16" inch hand punched holes all over the place like a mesh screen.
Greensand, Gypsum, Kelp, Crab Meal, Glacial Rock Dust, Azomite, Oyster Shell, Neem or Karanja cake, fruit scraps processed in a blender or from a juicer no bannana peels they are heavily sprayed with pesticides from what I understand. I like to throw in a colloidial oatmeal bath packet or corn meal at times.
I'm leery of using Corn, because of its fungicidal properties. Also, does anyone have much experience with Neem cake? I don't think it has an effect on worms like it does with insects, but I'm unsure. I'd like to use it.
And what about grit? Does particle size matter much? I have Azomite on hand, but it is the micronized. Are the particles too small? I believe that worms use grit like birds do, as a digestive aid to help grind.
Good worm article, including grit:
http://www.uaf.edu/files/ces/publications-db/catalog/anr/HGA-01020.pdf
Thanks. -granger
And what about grit? Does particle size matter much? I have Azomite on hand, but it is the micronized. Are the particles too small? I believe that worms use grit like birds do, as a digestive aid to help grind.
Good worm article, including grit:
http://www.uaf.edu/files/ces/publications-db/catalog/anr/HGA-01020.pdf
Thanks. -granger
I have my worm bins at a depth of about 8 inches, after a month or so it does become a little compact in the bottom couple of inches but not enough to cause any problems, like I said before ~I just mix it up with my hands turning it and fluff it up.
As for grit you will be amazed to see how much grit worms castings from outside actually contain, I gathered some up and I would say once I made a tea with them about 1/3 rd of the amount was rock dust/sand so they really do use a lot. I think that is to help grind stuff up in their stomach, I add ground egg shells every week usually the shells from a 18 eggs ground up into a fine a powder as I can, and once a month I add a good sprinkle of volcanic rock dusts, As rock dusts take a lot of time to break down and become available it's the best way to utilize them in your worm bins they help the worms digest food and they also break down faster because of the high microbial activity. so when you come to use the castings the minerals will be more available then just adding them when you mix up your soil.
Neem meal is a great additive to your worm bin. worms love it, and it will help keep down any kind of pests you may have in there. I add it every so often to my bins with no problems, Ive also seen a number of places recommend it in worm bins. Ive read it doesn't harm our worms in any way and Ive not noticed any bad results from adding it.
I wouldnt have though it would matter what kind of sand you use alslong as it's not straight from the beach and full of salt. I like to use ground egg shells. and rock dusts. you also get the benefit of calcium from the egg shells. I wash them out, dry them in the oven and they become more brittle then use a pestle and mortar t grind them up
