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Got Powdery Mildew for the first time in 12 years.

NorCalFor20

Smokes, lets go
Veteran
I've been doing some searching to see what is the best way to get rid of powdery mildew , some say sulfur, some say serenade, some say neem and cinnamon oil, some say use vinegar. What is the best way to really kill it dead? Got to handle it, my mom room is too moist they are in gh farm buckets need to handle this before it spreads to my veg or flower areas.
 

watts

ohms
Veteran
compost tea with some actinovate SP and a dehumidifier

others will probably tell you eagle 20
 
M

moodster

eagle 20 ew one spray in veg job done all the cinnamon crap dont work or milk LOL
 

The Bling

Member
honestly i have had the most success with sulphur burners

that being said I went out of town for a week and came home to the beginnings of PM I had nothing for them and they were still in quarantine (i quarentine all new plants for a week)

this is what i used that killed the pm in 1 day

diluted kombucha with enough baking soda to make the ph neutral


the next morning the pm was GONE its been 4 days still gone


why does it work well kombucha is a symbiotic culture of yeast and acito bacter its full of natural antibiotics and vitamins

also the variety of yeast endemic to kombucha cultures has the same morphology as PM


IT was all i had and it worked I used to breed the yeast on rice but this was easier.
 

NorCalFor20

Smokes, lets go
Veteran
don't want to use eagle 20 since its carcinogenic... im probably gonna try the acv or some safer garden fungicide
 
don't want to use eagle 20 since its carcinogenic... im probably gonna try the acv or some safer garden fungicide

Once you try everything else and it doesn't work... pick up some Eagle 20. lol. Me and a few of my buds all went through this. Wearing protective clothing (long sleeves, long pants, boots)while applying it as well as a ventilator mask will protect you. After 30 days of being applied, it dissipates. California grape growers have been applying this type of fungicide for years. I know many pros that recommend it and they all say the same thing.. there's nothing else more effective. The problem with PM.. it gets inside the plant and by the time you notice it, it's too late. The safer stuff is only a temp fix and after applying you'll see it go away for a few days.. but it comes back.

BTW you can get Eagle 20 on ebay in a small bottle pretty cheap. A little bit goes a long way.
 
L

longearedfriend

on the bright side of things

once in 12 years is a really good number
 

mack 10

Well-known member
Veteran
Had the same prob,So i feel your pain In the end i had to give in, the plants suffered to much from being sprayed with various coctails of chem's to milk. Nothing worked on this perticuliar Strain of Pm. and it took some mothers and a room at week 5.
i had to sterilize the room with sulpher bombs and atsrt with fresh cuts. you will have to be very careful you dont spread it to your mom/veg area.
I'm gonna get some Eagle 20 and use it preventivly and on the infected plants.
Anyone tried Ozone? i thinking of getting one to useat night and between crops.
mack.
 

randalika

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
pm can drive one really nuts. me and a friend had it for ages too, although i did quite well out of it. my mate couldnt do anything than selecting a 100% pm-resistant strain due to several trees in front of his home having pm all year round. it got in his room through the air supply and he didnt want to use chemicals all the time.

i tried heaps of different fungicides over the years - based on different active agents like azoxystrobin, kupferoctanoat (engl. caprylic acid copper/copper octoate?), etc. and also the organic, homemade ones based on garlic, milk, etc.

my conclusion is: the best fungicides against pm are based on sulphur or myclobutanil - without doubt!
i dont like using heaps of heavy chemicals on my plants but regarding pm there's is no organic treatment. u have to hit it hard!
products based on kresoxim-methyl are also pretty good but hard to get cause these products are meant for agriculture/silvicultural use and in most cases you need a special ID to buy them.

regarding sulphur i found it best to use it in a vaporizing way to sterilize the whole room.
the most easiest way is to use a spray solution with 7.5g/l myclobutanil. it always worked for me!
just dont use it in the flowering stage, only in veg.

but the most important thing regarding pm is not to just kill the pm. you have to find the source! otherwise it'll always come back.
for instance: i quite often saw ventilation systems running in circulating mode, meaning the exhaust air isnt going outside of the room. in this case the active carbon filter being close to the lamp is a perfect incubator for the spores.
so always try to find out where the pm is coming, take action and then treat the plant with a fungicide.

edit: i just saw that eagle20ew is based on myclobutanil. so go and get it. u won't be disappointed! :)
 
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Evil indeed.

Start with small moms. Dip them in eagle20. Take cuttings and start a new crop from the beginning. If you let your plants live for over 100days, including 12/12, after spraying then the concentration of fungicide left inside the plant is really low.

It makes me cringe when I hear people using this stuff during the first week of flowering. No good.
 

SKUNK420

Member
Evil indeed.

Start with small moms. Dip them in eagle20. Take cuttings and start a new crop from the beginning. If you let your plants live for over 100days, including 12/12, after spraying then the concentration of fungicide left inside the plant is really low.

It makes me cringe when I hear people using this stuff during the first week of flowering. No good.

+1 that is my technique. I've even dropped by accident full size 2 ft tall plants in coco into eagle20 with no ill effects on the plants. I thought the plant might die if it got into the medium but the next day it was praying to the hps gods.
Use it early and veg long enough. I've even done spot treatment with a q-tip and had success. The stuff smells like diesel fuel on steroids and require 24 hour re-entry wait time. Not good for bedroom or house growers unless you exhausting to the outside. Exhausting into attic could be a problem.
Spraying sucks because of over spray on gear,tables, etc... that's why I dunk my clones in my backyard, let them dry, then bring them into garage for a few hours ( my version of 24 hour re-entry wait time), then back to the grow room.
 

mack 10

Well-known member
Veteran
+1 on the Eagle 20, best Pm product I have tried. trashed a whole lot of plants before I found the eagle! Big ups Moodster! he showed me the light.

If your in veg, or as a preventative, spray away, BUT it's a big no-no in flower, I think it takes about 8 weeks for it to disappear from within the plant,so watch what your doing peepz, or don't use it. I've heard people use it till week 3 of bloom with no problems.

mack.
 
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Use a respirator rated for organic vapors. I really want to buy the full face mask, but only have the half-face mask. The respirator + the filter cartridges will set u back over $50 but Trust me u don't want to breathe Eagle20 in. It's very bad stuff. Spray moms, and take cuts.
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
I've been doing some searching to see what is the best way to get rid of powdery mildew , some say sulfur, some say serenade, some say neem and cinnamon oil, some say use vinegar. What is the best way to really kill it dead?

Foliar application of liquid seaweed works great.

I also use worm tea with molasses, worm castings and some lavameal or rock phosphate. Let the worm tea foam as much as possible, and apply it to underside and top of the foliage with a watering can. The biofilm that collects on the leaves really protects against mildew, spider mites, and other biting insects.

Those two have completely avoided mildew for me.

And lastly, water plants in the morning, not at night, so the moisture has time to evaporate.
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Foliar application of liquid seaweed works great.

I also use worm tea with molasses, worm castings and some lavameal or rock phosphate. Let the worm tea foam as much as possible, and apply it to underside and top of the foliage with a watering can. The biofilm that collects on the leaves really protects against mildew, spider mites, and other biting insects.

Those two have completely avoided mildew for me.

And lastly, water plants in the morning, not at night, so the moisture has time to evaporate.

Just a correction/addition. I had also added Canna Rhizotonic to the seaweed. This is also seaweed based, but it has the added characteristic that it is extremely alkaline. I used a weak citric acid (Bionova Citric Acid) to lower the pH of the foliar spray, but hit is likely that this would have worked off after a while.

It may have been the high pH that got the powdery mildew under control so quickly.

So I would most definitely recommend a combination of liquid seaweed and Rhizotonic.
 

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