Gotcha, thanks bro'.
Actually, I left the house, got to thinking about it as I was driving down the road, and figured it out. Thanks for clarifying!
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
Help me choose a timer
- Thread starter darkshadow
- Start date
Gotcha, thanks bro'.
Actually, I left the house, got to thinking about it as I was driving down the road, and figured it out. Thanks for clarifying!
darkshadow
Member
Just to make sure, after cutting the cord in half and stripping it, if there's 3 wires on both sides, do i just twist them together and plug half of the cord into let's say the "load" side?
Thank you guys for all the helpful information btw.
If rives doesn't pop in with a diagram i'll write it out for you . its pretty easy . both greens go under the green ground screw .... both whites go on the timer plate under the silver screw & the male end of the cord goes on a brass screw on the line side of the timer plate & the female end of the cord goes under a brass screw on the load side .line & load terminals are clearly marked so you can't confuse them .
darkshadow
Member
Does this look right?
No problemo brother 
just went through all this shit recently cuz of Titan timers shittin the bed , so it was all still pretty fresh in the memory banks .
but your the resident sparky
its been 20 years sense i did this shit for a living & with the way the NEC codes change every year .... your more up to date on things more than I am .
just went through all this shit recently cuz of Titan timers shittin the bed , so it was all still pretty fresh in the memory banks . but your the resident sparky
its been 20 years sense i did this shit for a living & with the way the NEC codes change every year .... your more up to date on things more than I am .
Those Titans aren't digital and should work fine. Most all of the mechanical timers that set at 15 minutes intervals are OK too with lights.
I went with a digital timer, but it also is made to run 240v relays:
It took about a month to finally get but was worth the wait. He put in 2-20 amp breakers instead of a 30 amp and that made it NEC compliant. The 240v outlets are still 15 amp and my bro-in-law could put in 20 amp but the capacity of this controller is already way more than I need.
Not the case, and so generalized as to be meaningless. Look at Dan's post immediately above yours. People need to read and understand the specifications, and stay within them.
Sorry 'bout that Rives, I "assumed". The Titans 6, 8 & 10 look more like those mechanical timers. Can't beat those Intermatics.
My choice was to save up and get a timer/controller for everything. My next order (for a separate veg room) will be the same from DXHydro and I think to also get it UL Listed (for specs anyway) I'll add the 20 amp 240v outlets. His generic 7200 watt Deluxe controllers has a 30 amp breaker for all the 240v outlets, but he had upgraded mine to 2-20 amps that I requested.
On another note: my crazy mouse likes to double click sometimes and that's why the double-post just happened. Did some searches and some say it's a hardware issue and to get a new mouse. I'm gonna try some software fixes next...
I'm pushing the limit with my 2 20 amp circiuts in my space & i'm gathering the stuff to bring another 20 amp 220 volt line upstairs just for my lights . which means another timer & 220 volt outlets instead of the 110 volts . i'm up to 2400 watts of light now plus AC during the summer & an oil filled heater during the winter . so a 220 line for my lights will help save a few bucks plus free up some amperage in the rest of the room .
it just never stops does it ???
I've thought about a DX unit like yours stonefree but I've heard a few discouraging things about him cheapening out on things in the units .. i should probably just build 1 myself .
it just never stops does it ???
I've thought about a DX unit like yours stonefree but I've heard a few discouraging things about him cheapening out on things in the units .. i should probably just build 1 myself .
No sweat, SF. I think that DXHydro is an excellent choice if you make sure and specify that you want things up to code. He has to compete against other companies trying to keep the cost to an absolute minimum and I'm not wild about his (or anyone else's) bottom end work, but the good thing with him is that he will build it anyway that you ask.
You might want to think about changing the way that the sealtite penetrates the wall in your bottom picture. If you keep the sealtite parallel to the wall and use a box or a condulet there to make the 90 into the wall, it might save you some heartburn later. Sealtite won't take much side pressure in cases like that and a good bump can break it and pinch the wiring. It looks like your room is coming along nicely!
*edit* I just replaced my mouse, and damn it's nice not to have to fight it anymore. Of course, I neglected to uninstall Mouseware before installing Setpoint, so everything was screwed up. I wound up having to go back a few days to an earlier save, get on the Logitech site and find their patch for the registry, etc, etc. It's nice now, though!
You might want to think about changing the way that the sealtite penetrates the wall in your bottom picture. If you keep the sealtite parallel to the wall and use a box or a condulet there to make the 90 into the wall, it might save you some heartburn later. Sealtite won't take much side pressure in cases like that and a good bump can break it and pinch the wiring. It looks like your room is coming along nicely!
*edit* I just replaced my mouse, and damn it's nice not to have to fight it anymore. Of course, I neglected to uninstall Mouseware before installing Setpoint, so everything was screwed up. I wound up having to go back a few days to an earlier save, get on the Logitech site and find their patch for the registry, etc, etc. It's nice now, though!
Can you specify the Intermatic timer that we should get?
Seems to be a lot of models.
Thanks!
R.Fortune
Seems to be a lot of models.
Thanks!
R.Fortune
Well, there are a lot of models because people want to do a lot of different things! For what we have been talking about in this thread, a T-101 is the ticket. It is for 120v usage and has SPST (single-pole, single throw) contacts, so it is good for switching a 120v load. Other models have double-pole contacts for switching 240v, some have clock motors for 208v-277v, etc. If you just want to plug it into a 120v receptacle and control a 120v ballast, the T-101 is what you want.
Youre the man Rives!
Heres what im using on my 1k electronic ballast..
GE T10X P series intermatic "indoor" electrical water heater time switch which is selectable from 120/240/277
ratings-normally open contacts
40A resistive,120-277Vac.
30A general purpose
20A resistive 30vdc.
1hp 120vac.; 2hp 277vac.
20A ballast, 120-277vac
15A tungsten, 120Vac
ratings-normally closed contacts
30A resistive, 120-277vac
15A general purpose, 120-277vac.
15A resistive 30vdc
20A ballast, 120-277vac
1/4hp, 120vac; 1/2hp, 208-240vac
I have it wired directly to its own 15A breaker set on 120, with a single outlet wired to that and my ballast plugged into that.
I cannot find the valuable information you laid on me anywhere on the box or in the manual.
Heres what im using on my 1k electronic ballast..
GE T10X P series intermatic "indoor" electrical water heater time switch which is selectable from 120/240/277
ratings-normally open contacts
40A resistive,120-277Vac.
30A general purpose
20A resistive 30vdc.
1hp 120vac.; 2hp 277vac.
20A ballast, 120-277vac
15A tungsten, 120Vac
ratings-normally closed contacts
30A resistive, 120-277vac
15A general purpose, 120-277vac.
15A resistive 30vdc
20A ballast, 120-277vac
1/4hp, 120vac; 1/2hp, 208-240vac
I have it wired directly to its own 15A breaker set on 120, with a single outlet wired to that and my ballast plugged into that.
I cannot find the valuable information you laid on me anywhere on the box or in the manual.
I can't find any capacitive rating in the documentation either, but I wouldn't be afraid to use that timer. It's interesting to see the disparity between the 120v hp and ballast ratings, and the tungsten rating is much lower than I would expect. The DC rating being that low isn't surprising, DC arcs much worse than AC and tends to burn the contacts.
This is why I encourage people to check the spec's and know what they are referring to. There is far more to contacts than a couple of pieces of metal slamming together. Most of them are targeted toward a specific application, and don't necessarily do well with others.
I might have passed on buying that for your application, but I think that it will be fine.
This is why I encourage people to check the spec's and know what they are referring to. There is far more to contacts than a couple of pieces of metal slamming together. Most of them are targeted toward a specific application, and don't necessarily do well with others.
I might have passed on buying that for your application, but I think that it will be fine.
nukklehead
Active member
no the t-101 doesnt have external lever ( why do you need one?) i just open up the panel and pull the timer switch internally if I need it..
not bustin balls just dont understand why you ned an external on off
lever ( you may for your application...???)
Lover my T.... bullet proof the only way to time...
Rives...
I searched for the t 101 at home depot/lowes and could not find that one, this is why I chose to go with the one I did. Its been working just fine without issue for several years, and I do periodically check it for any sort of faults.
also, on the box it explains that it can also be used with-
fans, pumps, pool heaters, air conditioning, blowers, lighting, heating and ventilation systems.
if this timer isnt compatible, what should i be looking for to indicate a malfunction before it happens? just the typical arcing and blackened terminals, excess heat, etc?
or in this case most likely if there was a malfunction it would go up in smoke right then and there?
funny thing is, im an automotive technician, not the very best with 12v electrical anyways, and then when it comes to 120/240 etc im stumped. I can wire it all up with simple knowledge and diagrams... but when it comes down to it, and at the end of the day, im electrical dumb.
I searched for the t 101 at home depot/lowes and could not find that one, this is why I chose to go with the one I did. Its been working just fine without issue for several years, and I do periodically check it for any sort of faults.
also, on the box it explains that it can also be used with-
fans, pumps, pool heaters, air conditioning, blowers, lighting, heating and ventilation systems.
if this timer isnt compatible, what should i be looking for to indicate a malfunction before it happens? just the typical arcing and blackened terminals, excess heat, etc?
or in this case most likely if there was a malfunction it would go up in smoke right then and there?
funny thing is, im an automotive technician, not the very best with 12v electrical anyways, and then when it comes to 120/240 etc im stumped. I can wire it all up with simple knowledge and diagrams... but when it comes down to it, and at the end of the day, im electrical dumb.
