Could electrician take a look at pic?

[guyyug]

This is the main disconnect/fuse under meter base, 200amp. Two subpanels feed off of it now (50amps and 75amps total if everything were to run at once)

I'm needing 75amps to a new subpanel (the wires marked soon to be disconnected) will be removed as it fed a 100amp panel but only had 8awg to it, glad I didn't load that sucker down. I am replacing that wire with 2 awg and changing out the subpanel to newer style.

Now my questions, will there even be enough room in those lugs to tie down a 2 awg wire? Also, would it be wise to run my wire into a disconnect box with breaker, then into my subpanel, or can I run a straight shot into subpanel? The subpanel is less than 25' away fyi.

 

[rives]

Jesus, that is ugly.

Lugs are only supposed to have one wire in them, and it is supposed to be in the range that the lug is listed for - it will have the acceptable wire sizes embossed on the lug. All of the wires coming off of the bottom of that disconnect are undersized - you have the potential to put 200a+ on any of them, and they are far too small for that. Coming off the bottom with 200a rated wire into a main lug only sub-panel, with appropriate sized breakers feeding your other panels would be a vast improvement.

 

[HidingInTheHaze]

What a hack job. The upgrade you are going to have to do I wouldn't recommend be done by an amateur.

 

[cravin morehead]

exactly as rives said... that being said, the lugs can be replaced. typically those mechanical lugs you've shown are rated up to #2. you can read the ratings on the lug themselves.
also, your new sub-panel can be the type with a main breaker installed. the main breaker rating can be up to 100amps, if you are going to use #2 wire less than 25' away...

cm

 

[guyyug]

This was existing before I moved in. Do you think the inspectors even seen this, would it have passed if so?

They have the correct sized wire going to all the subpanels at least (the big wire is 1/0 awg), but you are right, there is nothing keeping 200 amps from going into each tap. This is all on a pole and not easily accessed, but installing another panel below would not be impossible, it will be the only way it would ever pass future inspection, correct? Only one wire to each lug, ever? (as far as code)

Thanks for taking a look

 

[rives]

There is no way on earth that an inspector would have passed that. There are probably a variety of options to get you up to code, but without some more pictures, the above options are possibly the simplest. They do make lugs that will take multiple wires, but they have multiple holes in them for the wires and only one wire is used per hole/set screw.

 

[nukklehead]

What a hack job. The upgrade you are going to have to do I wouldn't recommend be done by an amateur.

Not hating on you but like the free floating fuse.. never seen that..??

Id go for a total overhaul, but im no sparky..... so I follow Rives advices..

 

[guerilllataktic]

i wouldn't be able to sleep if that was mine, scary for sure, please be careful

 

[guyyug]

One more question, there is only one sub panel using 3 phase (actually just an a/c unit), the other one and the one I want to install, is only using single phase, would I put in a 3 phase sub panel, and just feed them all out of it (leaving off the third leg when needed of course)?

Also, do I get charged more for having 3 phase service, is it something I should phase out when/if I replace my home a/c unit?

 

[rives]

I wouldn't use a 3-phase sub if you are considering having it removed - you would just have to re-work it at that point. If you are going to keep it, then what you are suggesting would work fine. Try and keep the loads balanced between the phases. For instance, feed one sub with phases 1&2, the next with 2&3, the next with 1&3.

You would have to look at your billing and see what you are paying, typically 3-phase services are more expensive to install, but cheaper to run. I've never seen one on a residence, just industrial/commercial and one church(!). Most industrial metering gets pretty elaborate compared to residential so that the utility can keep track of power factor, peak usage, etc. Do you have a large shop that was fed 3-phase, or do you know the history on it?

 

[guyyug]

It does have a big shop, plus the fact that there are 2 a/c units for the house alone. Would there be any problem wiring a 3 phase panel off this disconnect, as in would there be any issue with inspection by leaving this inline with a new a new panel? Or would it be better to replace this disconnect with a panel? Either way, I have to keep the 3 phase for now as one of my a/c units is still using it, and hopefully it won't be going out anytime soon

 

[rives]

You could do it either way. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a fused disconnect if it is in good working condition. There isn't really enough shown in the picture to see if there is anything that would indicate replacement. From what is visible, it looks like the existing equipment would clean up fine with a little TLC and some paint.

 

[guyyug]

This is the picture of the pole, from which I will need to connect a new 100 amp sub panel

This is the diagram of how the wiring will be when I remove the stuff that does not need to be on there

The way the conduits are attached to the pole, it may be easier to replace the existing main (fused) disconnect with a new breaker panel to feed the 60 amp disconnect right below it and the existing Sub B (100 amp). Then I would run #2 out of the new panel into my sub panel I am wanting to install. Does this sound like the best plan?

 

[rives]

Replacing the existing panel would really clean things up because you could do away with the intermediate boxes that step the protection down, and get everything consolidated into one enclosure.

What is that crumpled up 1/2" EMT on the right side of the pole?

 

[OldSSSCGuy]

Sure looks like arcing on the center and left poles of that feed. I am with rives that replacing the panel is a good thing. Maybe $250 in a new load center and you are brand new and safe.

 

[guyyug]

The broken pipe was a conduit for some accent lights that I am removing, the line is dead and I will be taking it off the pole. There were switches and fuses all over the place, on some of them, the wire itself would have been a fuse

I will have to run separate neutral and ground to the new sub panel, correct? I was planning on running 2-2-2-4(or 6) copper to my 100 amp panel through conduit. it looks like it will be a 45' run and won't carry more than 75-80 amps. Thanks for giving me a hand.

 

[rives]

Yes, a sub-panel requires that you carry both a ground and a neutral, and bond them together only at the main. Personally, I wouldn't downsize the neutral unless you can do the load calculations and are well assured that the equipment won't change in the future. There simply isn't enough savings in the size/length of conductors that you are using to take the chance on building-in future problems.

 

[guyyug]

The smaller #6 was for ground fyi... Those outdoor 3 phase panels are not cheap, hope I can find something that matches up somewhat as far as size (getting it to look nice with the different conduits)

Is a ground rod required for sub panels in a separate building (not living space)? Would it be wise to put one in?

 

[rives]

Yes, a ground rod is required in a separate structure.

 

[guyyug]

The ground from a rod would come up the utility pole (from where the power will be coming), literally 3 feet away from the sub panel I will be installing. Could I bond to the ground that is installed on the base of the pole? Is the min distance between grounds specified in the code? The power run is drawn from the main panel to my sub panel.