What's new

MaxiBloom - 1tsp = *major* drop in pH - what do I do?

hotboxes

Member
I always use silica. Protekt is one brand. Toughens up plants. Makes stems stronger, leaves tougher to resist pests/disease. Also doubles as PH up. Can't hurt plants, even young ones.

Have to agree here if your going to add something mite as well add something beneficial to your plants. Make sure you use a scale for your measurements of maxi it should be 7g/gal. get a digi for it. I add about 5ml/g of pro-tek silicate, I have used the silica blast but it don't adjust ph you still need to use a ph up supplement. add the pro-tek to your water before you add your mixed maxi.
 

hotboxes

Member
Again, due to limitations (time wise, money wise) I am forced to use tap water, most of the time without even giving it time to 'offgas' the chlorine and whatnot so the plant gets watered almost immediately after I fill the jug. Eventually I will get an R/O system which will greatly reduce my worries and make things much easier - until I can afford it (a decent one seems to run 5-700 hundred), gotta roll with what I have.





3.) How is a silica product like Protekt used as far as when you normally water (plain water), and feed? Do you use it in between those, with plain water, with the Maxibloom, etc?



Thanks guys!
Get a dechlorinater for your water topfin makes a good one 2 drops and 15 mins later ur water is good to go

use protek every time you mix a batch of maxi. mix in the silicate first into your water then the maxi mixed together with your water
 
G

Gunnlæif

I have used the silica blast but it don't adjust ph you still need to use a ph up supplement. add the pro-tek to your water before you add your mixed maxi.

i don't use silica blast, but protekt is definately a ph up!
i mix all my nutes well and let sit overnight. next morning i ph up with proteckt to between 6.5 / 6.8, no ph up supplement needed.

ph down, i use hygrozyme.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Haha I just wanted to be sure it was safe for the plants in the amounts I'm using, it's all good!

On that note, the KISS thread is 100+ pages long. Got a lot of stuff going on right now, so, I could use a quick summary (of important notations) and some quick answers, if it doesn't put any of you guys out.

I am growing in straight Pro-Mix BX. I was told it's similar to Coco, in the sense that there really isn't much in it (as opposed to say, FFOF) - it's 70%+ sphagnum peat moss. I've had about a total of 5 complete grows, with only my first 2 being 'good' in the fact that I produced quality, potent bud. I know strains and seed viability can greatly effect end product, but I typically stick with fresh Nirvana beans that have great germination rates and growth.

I originally grew in Canna Coco + FFOF with great results, but when I went straight Coco and then switched to Pro-Mix, I had a bunch of problems - possibly lockout due to pH, too many amendments, etc. I tried adding EWC, garden lime, etc to the Pro-Mix thinking I was making the right move. In hindsight, it wasn't the greatest idea. Seems like I'm not that great of a gardener :( haha

I have seen that a simple yet effective and cheap way to feed the plants is MaxiBloom, working for both Veg and Flower, which is why I went with that instead of the Flora line of nutes.

You're saying the hot water / mason jar isn't a good idea as it may 'affect' the Maxibloom in some manner - are there any other 'key points' I should know about Maxibloom aside from the fact that it isn't often used in soil (as per the other commenters in the thread)?

Again, due to limitations (time wise, money wise) I am forced to use tap water, most of the time without even giving it time to 'offgas' the chlorine and whatnot so the plant gets watered almost immediately after I fill the jug. Eventually I will get an R/O system which will greatly reduce my worries and make things much easier - until I can afford it (a decent one seems to run 5-700 hundred), gotta roll with what I have.

Key questions (some are general questions about growing that I need clarified):

1.) During veg up till flower, in a straight Pro-Mix medium what is recommended strength of MaxiBloom? Some say go with the full 7g/1tsp, while others say a quarter of that. Obviously during flower go with the full dose.

2.) From what some have suggested, a 'final' pH of 6.2-6.5 is recommended. Is this the case for both plain water AND water with Maxibloom added (or any other nutrient for that matter)?

3.) How is a silica product like Protekt used as far as when you normally water (plain water), and feed? Do you use it in between those, with plain water, with the Maxibloom, etc?

4.) Seeds were planted on 1-1-2013. As of 1/18/2013, on I'd say 50+ of the plants there was significant browning and yellowing of the lower leaves. During transplant to bigger pots, many didn't LOOK rootbound, while some were. Could this simply be the rootbound issue causing the yellowing or would this be lack of food even so early on?

Thanks guys!

My advice is forget RO water and stick with tap water. Not only is it much cheaper, but it has essential minerals that are beneficial to the plants, as long as your water is not too out of whack. Chlorine doesn't hurt plants. In fact chlorine is necessary for plant health. The reason people recommend to let chlorine dissipate from your water source is because the chlorine will kill beneficial bacteria, if you are using them, but it does not hurt the plants. Your PH should be measured after the Maxibloom and/or whatever other nutes you are using. Silica is added to the nutrient solution all the time.
If promix is similar to coco, then your ideal PH will be 5.8. You need a PH pen to get precise readings. Don't waste money on an RO system. Use that money for a PPM meter and PH meter.
I grow in coco, and if you use RO water, you must add cal/mag. Unnecessary with tap water. It's a common misconception that RO water is somehow better than tap. It isn't. Why take minerals out of the water, and then have to buy more additives to make up for what you removed? Doesn't make any sense, unless your water is really foul, which I doubt, or it wouldn't be safe to drink. You can find out the exact properties of your tap water by contacting your friendly government water office.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
The only problem with tap-water is that it adds a harshness/hotness to the end product that isn't there with R/O water.

Yes... I can generally tell the difference between grown with tap (Even as low as 175), Grown with tap and flushed with R/O... and grown AND flushed with R/O.

To almost everyone there is no difference to their experience. To everyone's body there is. To me? It sucks. *sigh*

Just saying.

Stay Safe! :tiphat:
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
The only problem with tap-water is that it adds a harshness/hotness to the end product that isn't there with R/O water.

Yes... I can generally tell the difference between grown with tap (Even as low as 175), Grown with tap and flushed with R/O... and grown AND flushed with R/O.

To almost everyone there is no difference to their experience. To everyone's body there is. To me? It sucks. *sigh*

Just saying.

Stay Safe! :tiphat:

Of course I flush with RO or distilled water.
 

RSA

Member
My advice is forget RO water and stick with tap water. Not only is it much cheaper, but it has essential minerals that are beneficial to the plants, as long as your water is not too out of whack. Chlorine doesn't hurt plants. In fact chlorine is necessary for plant health. The reason people recommend to let chlorine dissipate from your water source is because the chlorine will kill beneficial bacteria, if you are using them, but it does not hurt the plants. Your PH should be measured after the Maxibloom and/or whatever other nutes you are using. Silica is added to the nutrient solution all the time.
If promix is similar to coco, then your ideal PH will be 5.8. You need a PH pen to get precise readings. Don't waste money on an RO system. Use that money for a PPM meter and PH meter.
I grow in coco, and if you use RO water, you must add cal/mag. Unnecessary with tap water. It's a common misconception that RO water is somehow better than tap. It isn't. Why take minerals out of the water, and then have to buy more additives to make up for what you removed? Doesn't make any sense, unless your water is really foul, which I doubt, or it wouldn't be safe to drink. You can find out the exact properties of your tap water by contacting your friendly government water office.

well, based off what you said a silica product may actually help 'even out' the pH after the maxi is added - may need to grab some.

i wouldn't say promix is exactly like coco, but here's the description:

Ingredients:
• Canadian Sphagnum peat moss (75-85 % / volume)
• Perlite -horticultural grade
• Vermiculite - horticultural grade
• Dolomitic and Calcitic limestone (pH adjuster)
• Wetting Agent
• Mycorrhizae - endomycorrhizal fungi (Glomus intraradices)

there has to be a decent amount of perlite in it, so the remaining stuff encompasses a very small % of what's in it. that said, being it has limestone in it, would that indicate that i need to use a higher or lower water pH to ensure maximum absorption of nutrients?

i'm cool with using tap water, but i do frequently have what looks like nutrient deficiencies, 'crispy leaves', you name it. lights are kept at least 2' away from the plants, humidifier running constantly (but with the inline fan, it's hard to keep a high humidity, in veg for example) so per my hygrometer it says temps are usually ~76-77deg, 20-30% humidity (usually 20%) - i may have a faulty meter, but from what i hear that humidity is too low, but there's not much i can do about it if a humidifier running constantly doesn't raise it (due to the fan)

i just transplanted, so next watering I am going to feed with maxi and hopefully see a burst in growth/less signs of deficiencies.
 

hotboxes

Member
i don't use silica blast, but protekt is definately a ph up!
i mix all my nutes well and let sit overnight. next morning i ph up with proteckt to between 6.5 / 6.8, no ph up supplement needed.

ph down, i use hygrozyme.

you should mix your protek first then add uour maxi mixed with water, the protek pulls out minerals from the maxi if mixed the other way it clumps up an looks really nasty if you dont just my experiance
 
G

Gunnlæif

you should mix your protek first then add uour maxi mixed with water, the protek pulls out minerals from the maxi if mixed the other way it clumps up an looks really nasty if you dont just my experiance

i've not had that issue with my organics. but then again i havn't used maxibloom since the one and only time i tried it for the hell of it, a dead end if you ask me.
 

RSA

Member
Here's a pic of the plants, any indication on what problems they're having?

picture.php


picture.php


picture.php
 

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I agree with Gunn .... add enough protekt to bring your PH in the right level . i think it was around 3 to 5ml per gallon when i was doing it . & you won't need the PH adjusters anymore unless theres a big swing in your tap water ... which sometimes happens in the winter cuz on the salts on the roads . The protekt is highly beneficial to your plants health & the frost levels with it are rediculous !!!
 

RSA

Member
will have to grab some of that Protekt soon...but still am concerned about the older growth yellowing and browning. any input from anyone on those pics?
 

Kcar

There are FOUR lights!
Veteran
GH PH up and down are really weak. AN PH up and down are really strong. But not for long.
I heard AN is going to dilute their UP and Down.
 

hotboxes

Member
I couldn't see your picture so I can't tell you my opinion, but if they are old leaves they mite just be dieing off or your ph is swinging and your getting a deficiency depending which way its swinging you mite be letting to much N in and over feeding.

i have noticed the GH PH down is stronger than the up is.
 

RSA

Member
Well not sure why you can't see it, but the plants are only 2-3 weeks old. The newer growth doesn't show many of these signs, it's the older growth. Straight Pro-Mix like mentioned. Fed them tonight first time, 1/2tsp of Maxi, pH'd to around 6-6.5. I guess give them a few days, see if they rebound and get hardier.
 

hotboxes

Member
6.5 is a lil high I would stay around 5.8 to 6 but you are in promix never really used the stuff, always used coco. you might be stacking salts since its more of a dirt type medium, but there again never used it so don't know.mite just want to run straight ph'ed water threw it for a day or so then start feeding at half and only feed once every other watering. in soil I was always told to let the medium dry off first before watering again. Hope some of this helps you good luck.
 
Great point

Great point

that is exactly what happens.....so if you have to water the next days....you start from scratch... ...just get the meter....you will be glad you did.....I use mine everyday....and once you get a meter...make sure you calibrate it weekly.

I fill a pail full of my tap water and let it sit out a couple of days and the PH goes from 7 up to 8 or nine as the chlorine and other shit evaporayes out. I also noticed one time when I ran out of the aged water I used some right out of the tap. what happened was I adjusted the PH added nutes and watered, there was some left over so I let it sit out over night, the next day the PH had risen back up to 7.5 as the Chlorine and shit evaporated my ph down was no longer anough to keep it in the zone. So keep an eye on the PH from when it comes out of the tap and after it sits for a day or two. This may be different depending on location.

Peace
 
RSA

RSA

You are asking some very basic questions....you have to do more research....it's all here....go read the stickies, FAQ's and grow logs......if you growing 50+ plants ....it's going to end badly....

I know it's not what you want to hear.........but growing dank is anything but easy....

good luck

Haha I just wanted to be sure it was safe for the plants in the amounts I'm using, it's all good!

On that note, the KISS thread is 100+ pages long. Got a lot of stuff going on right now, so, I could use a quick summary (of important notations) and some quick answers, if it doesn't put any of you guys out.

I am growing in straight Pro-Mix BX. I was told it's similar to Coco, in the sense that there really isn't much in it (as opposed to say, FFOF) - it's 70%+ sphagnum peat moss. I've had about a total of 5 complete grows, with only my first 2 being 'good' in the fact that I produced quality, potent bud. I know strains and seed viability can greatly effect end product, but I typically stick with fresh Nirvana beans that have great germination rates and growth.

I originally grew in Canna Coco + FFOF with great results, but when I went straight Coco and then switched to Pro-Mix, I had a bunch of problems - possibly lockout due to pH, too many amendments, etc. I tried adding EWC, garden lime, etc to the Pro-Mix thinking I was making the right move. In hindsight, it wasn't the greatest idea. Seems like I'm not that great of a gardener :( haha

I have seen that a simple yet effective and cheap way to feed the plants is MaxiBloom, working for both Veg and Flower, which is why I went with that instead of the Flora line of nutes.

You're saying the hot water / mason jar isn't a good idea as it may 'affect' the Maxibloom in some manner - are there any other 'key points' I should know about Maxibloom aside from the fact that it isn't often used in soil (as per the other commenters in the thread)?

Again, due to limitations (time wise, money wise) I am forced to use tap water, most of the time without even giving it time to 'offgas' the chlorine and whatnot so the plant gets watered almost immediately after I fill the jug. Eventually I will get an R/O system which will greatly reduce my worries and make things much easier - until I can afford it (a decent one seems to run 5-700 hundred), gotta roll with what I have.

Key questions (some are general questions about growing that I need clarified):

1.) During veg up till flower, in a straight Pro-Mix medium what is recommended strength of MaxiBloom? Some say go with the full 7g/1tsp, while others say a quarter of that. Obviously during flower go with the full dose.

2.) From what some have suggested, a 'final' pH of 6.2-6.5 is recommended. Is this the case for both plain water AND water with Maxibloom added (or any other nutrient for that matter)?

3.) How is a silica product like Protekt used as far as when you normally water (plain water), and feed? Do you use it in between those, with plain water, with the Maxibloom, etc?

4.) Seeds were planted on 1-1-2013. As of 1/18/2013, on I'd say 50+ of the plants there was significant browning and yellowing of the lower leaves. During transplant to bigger pots, many didn't LOOK rootbound, while some were. Could this simply be the rootbound issue causing the yellowing or would this be lack of food even so early on?

Thanks guys!
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top