V
Veg N Out
Earlies..d.o.g, heart attack kush, 101north, betsy
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trees in the trpoics
trees in the trpoics
trees in the trpoics
Yes as long as they have mostly sativa. GRS's Blue Dream should get 8ft if I rember right you are at 10 lat. My summer plants are 9 to 12 ft. Pure hash plants 3 to 4 ft. Hope that helps. Aloha
that's crazy amounts of manure and bonemeal from my common gardening perspective. shiiit, ok now I know
... another thing what's interesting to me at quick look at that recepie is the amount of P (bonemeal) being bigger than N. maybe it's not.I've been reading the growing large trees thread and still do, love it. there's no way I could do this recepie. I'm far from being an expert but I know a few things about soil and gardening. I'm amazed at some of recepies here. especially the amounts of nutrition. but that's exactly what I'd like to push little further this year. looking at those numbers it looks I can't overfertilise, as long as it is left down to decompose some time before planting.
as I said I'm not able to use potting soil in my holes and I'd like to amend my local soil. very deep sand soil (not sandy loam) on dolomite ground. lacks organic metter and nutrition, dreiny. weed loves it. I understand I need to use as much organic metter as possibile, use of water cristals seems wise too. in particullar I want to know how much is the manure/bone meal ratio important in that mix? looks like the amount of P is much bigger than N, usually one would expect to be other way around or at least in balance. I'm asking this becouse it's hard to find a cheap substitute for bonemeal here. except for guano which is far from being cheap.
I'll be digging some 6'x6' wide holes and some smaller. I have plenty of dried manure pellets 3-3-2 fertiliser (looks similar to that schultzman manure) from my vinyard.
maybe it would be better if I posted this in it's own thread? I hope for some help here.
peace and nice farming.
B
bajangreen
Well my longest day length is 13h shortest is 11.5 last season i vegged some at 18/6 and when i put them out side on the longest day they flowered immediately, this season i plan on vegging @ 13h.
I got a question though the natural outdoor photoperiod is not stable like how it is indoors, its either getting longer or shorter, by 40-45 seconds a day where i am. I find that plants put out when the days are only getting shorter give big buds but this is at a time when normal grown plants are about waste high.
This may sound like a stupid question but can a plant be put out at a time when the natural photoperiod is 12.5h and increasing and still not trigger till the photoperiod goes to 13 then comes back down to under 12h?
I am not new to growing i use 3galls of seed a season. Its getting monotonas though. I wanna grow 4/5 of these big ass plants just for shits and giggles. I just got purple#1 and haze/skunk. I wanna try trees with the Haze/skunk going for a 5 pound first though. Most of my big plants give me around a pound, with out watering. I figure those 5-10 pounders could take like 55 gall every two days or so. I wonder what your day-length is when you put out these monsters.
I would need a strain that veg's indefinitely at 13h but flowers @ 12 and stretches alot during flower. I once had a strain name delat, (got it from a guy on overgrow.com) it got 10 feet but i never got to see the end (LEO) so i dont know what it would had done, that was the best season i ever had btw.
How big are these plants when they start to flower anyways?
I got a question though the natural outdoor photoperiod is not stable like how it is indoors, its either getting longer or shorter, by 40-45 seconds a day where i am. I find that plants put out when the days are only getting shorter give big buds but this is at a time when normal grown plants are about waste high.
This may sound like a stupid question but can a plant be put out at a time when the natural photoperiod is 12.5h and increasing and still not trigger till the photoperiod goes to 13 then comes back down to under 12h?
I am not new to growing i use 3galls of seed a season. Its getting monotonas though. I wanna grow 4/5 of these big ass plants just for shits and giggles. I just got purple#1 and haze/skunk. I wanna try trees with the Haze/skunk going for a 5 pound first though. Most of my big plants give me around a pound, with out watering. I figure those 5-10 pounders could take like 55 gall every two days or so. I wonder what your day-length is when you put out these monsters.
I would need a strain that veg's indefinitely at 13h but flowers @ 12 and stretches alot during flower. I once had a strain name delat, (got it from a guy on overgrow.com) it got 10 feet but i never got to see the end (LEO) so i dont know what it would had done, that was the best season i ever had btw.
How big are these plants when they start to flower anyways?
S
SeaMaiden
In my experience, once you sufficiently increase the dark phase of the photoperiod, even if it's still 16hrs of light, they'll flip into regenerative (flowering) phase growth. IF you can interrupt the dark phase, you can stop that from happening. Two ways to do it, lengthen the 'daylight' phase by adding a few low wattage bulbs (say, household wattage CFLs) lit up in the evening and morning just as it's getting dark and just before it's getting light, and leaving on for 1-2hrs. OR, you can interrupt the dark phase. I use two interruptions of 2hrs each for plants I plan to put outdoors, with the daylight matched to the day I plan to put them out.
Does that make sense?
As big as you want to get them. I'm not able to do what the better-planned growers I know do, they get them to at least 3' tall, usually more around 4'-5' tall, before putting them out. I can't answer you as to what strain would veg at 13hrs light without interruption or extension of daylight.
trees
trees
trees
Summer plants that I want to get big, I don't use lights. Crack seeds outside March if lots of sativa she will grow through and get huge , April always gets big and thy are done Sept some times Oct. I use lights on my clones and when I bring them outside in 6 to 8 weeks they are done, this is how I harvest first of July.
Y
YosemiteSam
that's crazy amounts of manure and bonemeal from my common gardening perspective. shiiit, ok now I know
I've been reading the growing large trees thread and still do, love it. there's no way I could do this recepie. I'm far from being an expert but I know a few things about soil and gardening. I'm amazed at some of recepies here. especially the amounts of nutrition. but that's exactly what I'd like to push little further this year. looking at those numbers it looks I can't overfertilise, as long as it is left down to decompose some time before planting.
as I said I'm not able to use potting soil in my holes and I'd like to amend my local soil. very deep sand soil (not sandy loam) on dolomite ground. lacks organic metter and nutrition, dreiny. weed loves it. I understand I need to use as much organic metter as possibile, use of water cristals seems wise too. in particullar I want to know how much is the manure/bone meal ratio important in that mix? looks like the amount of P is much bigger than N, usually one would expect to be other way around or at least in balance. I'm asking this becouse it's hard to find a cheap substitute for bonemeal here. except for guano which is far from being cheap.
I'll be digging some 6'x6' wide holes and some smaller. I have plenty of dried manure pellets 3-3-2 fertiliser (looks similar to that schultzman manure) from my vinyard.
maybe it would be better if I posted this in it's own thread? I hope for some help here.
peace and nice farming.
I used this mix and ended up growing 2-3 lb plants in it...smaller pots, not full sun, not out as early, etc.
At the end of the grow EC was 3.45, N was 166 ppm, P2O5 was like 360. This is from a Westside type soil test I had done...base cation saturation Ca 71, Mg 7, K 6, H 14 and Na 2.
So yeaa...unless you are going to grow 10 lbers this mix is too strong. But if you look at the base cation saturation it is well balanced. I used gypsum...had I used dolomite instead and got the Mg up it might have been perfectly balanced in Albrecht terms...just too much EC.
How it is gonna work on top of a dolomite base I really would not know. You are really not gonna want Mg to go past 12% base saturation...at that point you are going to start choking the O2 out of the soil.
One other thing...the soil lacks micros so either add some or do like Tom and foliar them.
B
bajangreen
Been doing some research it seams that at 8pm you guys still have light outside, that must be wonderful to have all that extra time to work with your girls. @ 6:30 its dark no matter what here.
appriciate your reply. I don't really think about yield, I'm just gonna make big holes and try to fill it with some good shit, best I can. there's too many things that can influence my crop, that's why I'd like to keep things simple and not too expensive. winds, drought and rats are my concern. I'll try to get close to Tom's N/P ratio but need to find some alternative for bonemeal or guano.
this is a simple recepie from my friend, he's an oldtimer and a great farmer. mix handfull of manure (better raw than composted) with a bucket of topsoil-humus. important thing is this topsoil needs to be from the spot which you can clearly see it's totally healthy and vigourus. I guess that's the way he inculates his plantings with microbes, he says he plants nothing without this mix. probably wouldn't do any harm if it was coupled with EWC. might sound funnny but I've seen his garden.
plastochron
Member
that's crazy amounts of manure and bonemeal from my common gardening perspective. shiiit, ok now I know
looks like the amount of P is much bigger than N, usually one would expect to be other way around or at least in balance. I'm asking this becouse it's hard to find a cheap substitute for bonemeal here. except for guano which is far from being cheap.
Hopefully Tom or someone else will correct me if I am wrong, but I think that the high amount of P in that fertilization regime is based on the fact that phosphate is sparingly soluble in soil and that solubilized phosphate leaches through the soil profile.
I think this SUPERGUANOXY might be a good substitute for bonemal.
Tom uses aproximetly 10-20x more chicken manure than manufactorer recommended dose. following that route I should use for a 6'x6' hole:
-between 20 and 40 pounds of FERTILDUNG manure.
-between 10 and 20 pounds of SUERGUANOXY.
to that I'll add 5 to 10 gallon of EWC (I know it's not much), some compost and mix it with topsoil and native soil. not sure if I should add gypsum?
http://www.fomet.it/file-fomet/organo_minerali/SUPERGUANOXY.pdf
http://www.fomet.it/file-fomet/organici_np/FERTILDUNG.pdf
Tom uses aproximetly 10-20x more chicken manure than manufactorer recommended dose. following that route I should use for a 6'x6' hole:
-between 20 and 40 pounds of FERTILDUNG manure.
-between 10 and 20 pounds of SUERGUANOXY.
to that I'll add 5 to 10 gallon of EWC (I know it's not much), some compost and mix it with topsoil and native soil. not sure if I should add gypsum?
http://www.fomet.it/file-fomet/organo_minerali/SUPERGUANOXY.pdf
http://www.fomet.it/file-fomet/organici_np/FERTILDUNG.pdf
S
SeaMaiden
The form of Ca you use, and whether or not you use gypsum really depends on the type of soil you're working with. Where I am it's damn near 100% heavy, red clay and everyone, old timer farmers included, uses gypsum to break it up. If I were sitting on sandy or loamy soils, I would use very little, if any gypsum.
I like the sound of FertilDung!
I would add myco after the soil has cooked, right before transplant.
Hey OB, I think sam was referring to micro nutes, not microbes.
Hey OB, I think sam was referring to micro nutes, not microbes.
Yea I know, it's hard to write sarcasm. I did get a couple negative votes on that comment, guess it wasn't very funny.
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