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Living organic soil from start through recycling

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MileHighGuy

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Living organic soil from start through recycling

Well something like that. There are probably many species of bacteria/archaea which can fix atmospheric nitrogen but one which is mostly popularized.

Let's drop the N and just say nutrients. It could be that more N as opposed to other nutrients are delivered through predation but there certainly are other macro & micronutrients made available this way. Bear in mind that this is one way of nutrient uptake and nature has several back-ups.

Consider that the soil is holding sequestered nutrients bound to organic matter (and clay particles) by a chemo/electrical charge which is described by CEC (cation exchange capacity). When some of those nutrients are released into the soil solution it is released via exudes or organic acids exuded by either roots or bacteria/archaea (I'll use bacteria). These acids (eg. carbonic, citric, malate, oxolate, etc) create hydrogen molecules which cause the release (exchange) of the desired nutrient into solution. In the case where the bacteria has consumed the nutrient and it is later, itself consumed by a protozoa then the protozoa uses only 30 to 40% of that energy and the remaining 60 to 70% is expelled as ionic form nutrient availble to the root.

It appears that this method of uptaking the desired nutrient is more 'economically' viable for the plant. Rather than expending its precious resources to mineralize (release) these nutrients the bacteria and protozoa pull it off for her. There is evidence that the plant can begin the whole process by exuding carbon to attract and feed the type of bacteria needed for the job. Upon being fed this carbon the bacteria multiply like crazy and then start feeding on the surrounding organic matter (as described) which then causes protozoa to multiply like crazy.... (It's like I get you stoned and give you a piece of chocolate, you get the munchies and pig out on bread or kraft dinner:biggrin:)

There are studies indicating that this is the predominant way that many plants (like annuals) uptake nutrients and I believe you are correct in stating primarily nitrogen.

In the case of ACT, you have been feeding the bacteria over the period of the brew and they have multiplied. The food comes from both the [vermi]compost you used and feedstock. If there are also flagellates and/or naked amoebae (protozoa) in the ACT then you will have nutrient cycling going on as described above and when applied to the soil you will be providing some nutrients into the soil solution immediately available to the roots.

Additionally, many of those microorganisms may go dormant or die, contributing to the soil storehouse or some may continue to floursh, depending on the needs of the soil. If there is hyphae in your ACT it may continue to grow, binding soil particles and creating aggregate, providing moisture and air retention, microbial pathways, microbial food and contribute to degradation of organic matter into a form accessible to other organisms.

That is my take. I apologize if I made errors or missed anything. This was written hurredly.

That was an amazing summation of some complex stuff. Thanks!
 

W89

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Thanks for the recommendations on foliar feeding, I will try look for the freeze dried stuff then, also dyna gro isnt available here i dont think, but what about this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Potsil-Li...arden_PlantsSeedsBulbs_JN&hash=item231ce7ad21

"POTSIL 'The Plant Protector'

MAKES UP TO 3000 LITRES

Potsil 500ml + 5ml Syringe and Leaflet.

Potsil will provide more stem and leaf strength allowing your plant to maximise sunlight absorption ~ promoting the growth rate through accelerated photosynthesis.

Potsil is a modified horticultural grade liquid Potassium Silicate. It is a safe and easy to use treatment that provides supplemental potassium and silicon. Research proves that plants benefit from supplemental soluble silicon. These benefits include greater tolerances to cold, heat, drought, salinity, mineral toxicity or deficiency, improved growth rates and resistance to insects and fungi.

Soluble silicon promotes natural fungal defence mechanisms in plants, significantly reducing and, in many cases eliminating, the need to use fungicides. Silicon deposited within the plant cell walls makes plants resistant to small sucking insects. This increased strength will enhance leaf presentation and stem strength.

Potsil should be added once a week with your plant feed routine.

Potsil is non-toxic.

DOSAGE RATES:
Potsil is a highly concentrated liquid and will make up to 6000 times the original volume. All our products are supplied with different sized syringes to suit the particular bottle size, enabling you to measure your dosage rates accurately.

3.5mls of Potsil added to 10 litres of water will produce a solution containing:

40 ppm of silicon (as Si02).
19 ppm of potassium (as K20).
 

W89

Active member
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Aloe Vera Powder, 200:1 (Organic) 5G for Price:(exc. VAT) £6.20 or 10g forPrice:(exc. VAT) £11.65
 

think_fast

Member
W89,

I forgot to mention Kelp meal tea for foliar feeding. You definitely want to make a habit of applying this one.

You may also want to consider rock dusts in your foliar feeds as well.

Just a few more things you can search for.
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
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Aloe Vera Powder, 200:1 (Organic) 5G for Price:(exc. VAT) £6.20 or 10g forPrice:(exc. VAT) £11.65
W89

The commercial powders are available in 3 versions: 200XX, 100XX and 50XX

1 gram of the 200XX mixed with 199 grams water = 200 grams aloe vera juice

1 gram of the 100XX mixed with 99 grams water = 100 grams aloe vera juice

1 gram of the 50XX mixed with 49 grams water = 50 grams aloe vera juice

You'll have to work out the price per liter or whatever is a typical size over there. Watch the preservatives (fungicides) on the label - Sodium Benzoate you do not want.

CC
 
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Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
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W89,

I forgot to mention Kelp meal tea for foliar feeding. You definitely want to make a habit of applying this one.

You may also want to consider rock dusts in your foliar feeds as well.

Just a few more things you can search for.

Just wondering what the advantage is in applying rock dusts as a foliar feed. Do you have any information on this?
 

think_fast

Member
Microbeman,

Maybe it was some other "dust" (perhaps the layer in my ears?) because this isn't something I've tried myself. It was just a vague recollection from other threads, but thanks for calling me out on it. lol!

To be fair, I did only offer my suggestions as search topics :tiphat:
 
Y

YosemiteSam

"something like that" is about as close as I normally come :biggrin:

thanks Microbeman.
 

W89

Active member
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Theres no way rock dust would go through my sprayer lol.. I've keep spraying kelp on my babies once I get my alfalfa pellets il spray that too.. does the triacontanol absorb through the leaves?

Cootz how many ml does 200grams equal do you know?
 

W89

Active member
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gonna weigh out a gram of water on my scales should have done that before asking couldnt believe it would weigh a gram

EDIT yes bang on a gram... blimey!!!

5 grams makes a liter of mix that aint a lot of mixture for for 6 quid
 

gregor_mendel

Active member
Going from memory here, but doesn't CC recommend 1/4 cup aloe gel per gallon of water, which is 1:64?
So your liter will make 64 liters of whatever soil drench you are doing.
How's that for 6 quid?
 

W89

Active member
Veteran
oh so you don't dilute the 1 gram with 199 gram then spray it no? you then mix that dilute then dilute it again?

I.m now bubbling a hand full of Kelp and 1ml of LAB in 1 ltr of water to give them a spray in the morning.. will prob end up diluting it quite abit coz the color already is like when ive drunk 5 pints of cider(god I love strongbow) and then go to the toilet rusty water kinda thing lol - How long would this kelp concoction last for before it starts to go off? or will it stay fresh if I keep bubbling it and will it break down and lose any of the goodness? or get better
 
I think I might just buy an aloe plant instead of the gel or would you say a gel is better? like this one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PURE-ORGA...Health_Beauty_Skincare_PP&hash=item27cb29277a

I was planning on using an established aloe plant on hand until I started blending up the aloe filet and drinking it for its health benefits. There's this yellow gooey stuff called aloe latex that used to be used in dietary supplements and laxatives until people started worrying about the bad side effects of it.

So since the best time frame to use the fresh aloe is within 15-20 minutes you really have to rush to fillet the aloe, then remove the latex, toss the fillet in blender, then mix with the right amount of water and spray..

I'm not sure if the aloe powder contains the latex part and it's effects on plants but I was really hoping I would be able to get by without it because of costs and possibly loss of good stuff from fresh aloe once turned into powder... but since it's way less of a hassle with the powder I'm thinking of purchasing it just hope none of the good stuff is lost throughout processing..
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
Does posting pictures of a female cola somehow represent the common male driven subliminal nature to represent phallic symbols from nature in common objects have an underlying Freudian trip...I dunno man....I think your high!

TO x BMR Bx1

picture.php
 

Budwhyser

Member
Almost near the end of my first purely organic run. It's been fantastic although between a decent soil mix and blumats, it's been a bit boring, nearly anti-climatic! I realize this may not be the proper forum for this, but from a purely organic perspective I've come to respect the techniques and opinions of those that participate in this group, having said that I wonder if some of the wiser old (or young) owls wouldn't mind sharing their organic drying/curing techniques and philosophies...
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
oh so you don't dilute the 1 gram with 199 gram then spray it no? you then mix that dilute then dilute it again?
1 gram of 200XX powder + 199 grams water = 200 grams of PURE ALOE VERA JUICE.

Dilute 1:64 as Gregor Mendel posted.

You cannot store pure aloe vera juice without using a preservative and even then it has to be kept < 40F which would be pretty silly to even try. That's the reason for buying & using these powders - to avoid the preservatives that are used in retail products.
 
V

vonforne

CC-'ਮਾਸਟਰ ਜੀ - masterji
ਸਤਿ ਸ੍ਰੀ ਅਕਾਲ so you use this to signify that you are now a teacher?
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
I wonder if some of the wiser old (or young) owls wouldn't mind sharing their organic drying/curing techniques and philosophies...
Budwhyser

I think that this is a typical method: hand the plant until the buds feel dry. Trim the leaves and put the buds into a Mason jar. I usually only fill a jar about 1/3 full. Put the top on and beginning the next morning check the buds - they will feel damp to some degree.

Leave the lid off for 3 or 4 hours and check. If they feel dry then put the lid back on. Check again the next morning and repeat if necessary.

When you get the level of 'dryness' that you want then put the lids on the jars and stick them into a dark closet - light & air are your concerns.

As far as curing time - lots of opinions. I like going 6 - 8 weeks but again there are a lot of opinions out there.

HTH

CC
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
Vonforne

As you know from German expressions, translations are difficult. In the Sikh faith, Sat Sri Akaal more closely means God is the ultimate truth

Sat - truth
Sri - a honorific term as in Sri Yogananda, Sri Yukteswar, et al.
Akaal - timeless being or God

Again translating anything without a cultural link is challenging.

Like the GI's in Germany saying 'mox nix' - LOL
 
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