root aphids wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[santaclause79]

si have 6x6 rockwool cubes on top of coco matts in a an ebb n flow but these ass faces wont go away i tried watering with some azamax but there are still a lot alive. should i use an imid type solution and how would you go about using it. i seem to think there should be a flood with some clean water and some pesticide. let me know please i need help!!!!!!!!!! thanks a ton heres a thread i was looking for solutions on

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=159960

 

[SneakySneaky]

Every 3rd day do a complete soak. 15 mins with a solution of azamax, dutch master zone, and a mosquito dunk in the rez at all times. The key is complete saturation of the medium. Since your on tables u gotta flood the whole thing, then I'd take a pitcher and scoop water from the table onto the top of your pots. Do that at least twice, every 3 days. A friend of mine uses sunshine and if he gets them he lets the pots dry out a lot between waterings, however this isn't gonna work for u in coco. The sick plants thread will tell u a lot of info on root aphids and alternate verified solutions to kill the bastards.

 

[santaclause79]

thanks for the reply but should i water in between with regualr waters becaue i dont really like the fact of all the dead bugs and larva in my rezi

 

[VagPuncher]

http://www.store.tlhort.com/p-3534-pounce-384-ec.aspx

 

[RockyMountainHi]

Mosquito dunks won't touch root aphids. Fungus gnats, yes.

I batteled them for about 4 cycles, switched to soil and back to Rockwool. They continue to come back.

I tried 125 DEG. f root drench, then boiling water flush after harvest. I tried Merit 52, Imidichlor and Bayer Treen & Shrub. I'm on my third bottle of Botaniguard - and still I have R/A's

I replaced all the rockwool. AGAIN. they are back.

I've done better with Botaniguard, but at best maybe 1/2 the yeild I should be getting - and Botaniguard is not cheap.

I'm pulling the plug for at least 3 months. I'll clean n scrub the grow a half dozen times and try one more time.

I know they are not coming in from outside during January. I must be missing some way they are able to re-establish.

Oh,, I even tried microwaving the blocks after harvest. Still I get reinfections.

I'd rather worry about dead bugs in my resivoir than live bugs on my plants.

Prioritys.

 

[SeaMaiden]

Rocky, are you treating the ENTIRE growing area, lights, power outlets, any and every place a 1/32" bug could possibly squeeze itself into? And all adjacent areas? I cannot emphasize strongly enough how important that is, because all you need is ONE flyer, that's it.

I saw relief using Spectracide with Triazicide, but if I had it to do all over again I would prefer an organic method that's not so toxic to almost everything it contacts. I would like to know for myself how well hot water works for root zone infestations, too, because I can see steam working in other areas, leaving application of pesticides for the last and most difficult to treat areas.

Azatrol (same thing as Azamaz, IIRC) just pissed my root aphids off. At that time, only a few growers were really beginning to discuss them, so I next tried Bayer Tree & Shrub. Two floods at highest dosing rate, didn't do them in. That's when I tried the Triazicide and that worked. Three floods of several hours each along with spraying the ENTIRE area.

I know Triazicide doesn't work in all cases. I am currently reading someone on another forum (aka internet reading) who's reporting that he is seeing success with Spinosad, of all things. I'm wondering if it's really root aphids, or if it's a particular species that's susceptible, but I recall Spinosad as being one of the products many folks tried early on that brought no results. However, if it does now, who cares if it didn't work before, right?

 

[bobman]

Predator bugs. Isn't this what 40ampstofreedom used to finally win. Not sure what kind but its in one of his threads. Surprised you never tried them Seamaiden.

 

[groovee]

Bayer complete is the only thing that worked for me... like you i tried everything!

Within one week they were gone!

 

[SeaMaiden]

Predator bugs. Isn't this what 40ampstofreedom used to finally win. Not sure what kind but its in one of his threads. Surprised you never tried them Seamaiden.

Which predators have been found to be successful against an active infestation? I admit, since eradicating them, I haven't had an 'opportunity' to try any of the other myriad treatments that I've read have worked, and not, for others.

You know what are worse? Cabbage aphids. Took the wind right outta my sails, I tell you what.

 

[bigshrimp]

Predators will never eliminate any infestation. They are best used as a preventative measure.

If added after the fact they will only balance you infestation to normal predator prey levels, which is largely determined by the health and diversity of your ecosystem.

 

[bobman]

I think they were wasps but i am not sure. Its in one of his many threads not to hard to find but just hard enough for me right now. Hope the guy is alright shame he has disappeared. I know he had a hell of a battle and tried everything and ended up very happy with the results. No thank you on the cabbage aphids,

 

[bobman]

Predators will never eliminate any infestation. They are best used as a preventative measure.

If added after the fact they will only balance you infestation to normal predator prey levels, which is largely determined by the health and diversity of your ecosystem.

Thats kind of what I have always suspected. Never tried them but I was thinking about getting some and just releasing them from time to time as a preventative. right now i have to lizards that have snuck in somehow and seem to be very happy taking care of any excess bugs.

 

[Buddle]

Man these root aphids really suck the big one. I treated with a Bromide product .22 imicaloprid or whatever that pesticide is. i ddn't want to use Bayers 12 month 1.27% solution.the plants took quite a beating from it.All leaf tips burned pretty badly.i did find one live ra but it hadn't been a week since treatment.i let the plants get really dry after the first tx and I'm sure that didn't help with the burning but I am thinking the girls had to have drank a LOT of the insecticide so hopefully its successful in the long run.

 

[Rainmaker]

What rate are people using the Bayer Tree and Shrub at?

 

[santaclause79]

thanks for all the replys buddies i need the love to battle these ass hat wearing poo lickers. im gonna try a nice long duunk in some kind of imid product and come back with the results. but keep posting i like the ideas coming in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bless

 

[rives]

What rate are people using the Bayer Tree and Shrub at?

I used Bayer T&S at 1-1/4 tspns/gallon, but this was with the older formula that had 1.47% Imid. I recently read that they had changed the formulation and cut the Imid level in half, so I would check the label and adjust accordingly.

I completely submerged the plants, both the foliage and the soil. Let the pot sit in the solution until the soil is completely saturated. I found it helpful to cut a circle out of cardboard, cut a hole in the center and a slice from the center out so that the cardboard could be slipped around the stem of the plant and hold the soil in place while the plant was inverted to dunk the foliage.

Nasty little fuckers!

 

[Granger2]

I will make no claims about any "Final Solution" to Root mofo Aphids. I am skeptical about any such claims. I fear that once you’ve got ‘em, you’ve got ‘em. Can’t speak with experience about chemical controls, since I grow organically. I have tried many organic control methods.

After my latest crop, I’m now confident that I can “control” them and have healthy, sweet, potent, high yield crops. It won’t be cheap or without pain in ass.

Still making no once an for all claims about RA’s with predators, I have had complete success with predators on Spider Mites and White Flies. Haven’t seen a White Fly in 2 ½ - 3 years. I’ve cured Mites with predators, but they get into my room by unknown ways. Probably I carry them in, but after properly timed app of predators, they are gone for about 2-4 months.

I actually don't have a strict rigid schedule. I start with the 20 minute Cedarcide PCO Choice immersion [then flush] before bringing the medium and containers [Aerobags with coco80%/ perlite20%] into my room. I add to the Cedarcide solution as needed, not worrying about the color of it going from white to brown.

From there on, I have the Cedarcide PCO Choice on hand, in case there is an outbreak, but haven't had to use it. About a week after transplanting to the 3 gal Aerobags, I immerse them for 20 mins. in full strength Mycotrol, and let drain. I add to the Mycotrol solution as needed, again not worrying about the color change. After that, I use Mycotrol every 2-3 weeks by watering heavily with it.

I've been ordering overwhelming numbers of Beneficial Nematodes approx. monthly. I order 30 million, use half, and store the other half no more than 10 days in fridge, then apply. These are divided between 27 3 gal bags, and to my [about 15] mothers in 6" pots.

I also spray the leaves [no roots] with Azasol, the soluble and quite a bit more systemic version of Azidiractin, at transplant, and during the 1st week of 12/12. This oil free Azidiractin causes no phytotoxicity that I've observed. Great stuff and no more expensive to use than Azamax or Azatrol. Not messy.

My yield on the last crop was better than ever. Plants were healthy till the end, and the potency, taste, smell were great. I have gotten ample high praise on the quality from multiple consumers.

This method is by no means cheap, but it has worked, and I'm still producing quality bud, and I can still look people in the eye and say it's organic. Many chemical remedies people are using with varying success are pricey too. I'm not smoking these chemicals.

And also, I spray the floors, walls, entire outside of AeroBags with Cedarcide every once in awhile. I don't want it to penetrate into the medium because I fear for my tode buddies. I am using EJ nute line and EWC ACT's and I inoculate with Plant Success Soluble.

I can't over emphasize the usefulness of sticky traps. Not only do they trap flying insects, but they serve as a harbinger. Often you'll see bugs on the traps before you see them on the plants. Good luck. -granger
NOTE: I now [4-10-14] use 2-3 tsp/gal of Cedarcide PCO Choice. Higher concentrations cause root damage. Best to try on expendable plants, flush, wait 7-10 days to see if they pass. Very effective repellant too. Now using OGBioWar foliar and root @4 tsp/gal, every other week. Still with 2 apps of Heterorhabditus and S. carpocapsae mixed during bloom. -granger

 

[Garhart]

hi, I had the same problem. Hot water worked for me, here is the supporting document that gave the inspiration to try. Super easy and simple, no need for the big pharma crap.

 

[Garhart]

the file did not post, here is the essence of it along with enough info to source to orginal :
Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University
In 1994-95, the Oregon Wine Advisory Board supported a cooperative study entitled "Crown gall and
phylloxera in Oregon grape vines: Biology and treatment of planting stock with hot water dips" with
Bernadine Strik and Marilyn Canfield (Larry Moore) as co-principal investigators. We will report our
findings on hot water dips for phylloxera eradication here. Marilyn Canfield has submitted a separate
report on Crown Gall.
We will also report on our preliminary findings on rootstock performance in phylloxerated and nonphylloxerated
sites (funded by the Center for Applied Agricultural Research). A more complete report
on this study will be provided in up-coming industry newsletters.
Hot water dips for eradication of phylloxera. The easiest way to introduce phylloxera to a site is by
infested plant material. If a grower can effectively remove any existing phylloxera on new plants, the
rate of spread of phylloxera in Oregon vineyards will be significantly decreased.
The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
In January 1993 and 1994 all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication. Three root pieces with
established populations of eggs, nymphs, adults, and hibernants were dipped for each time treatment.
After the heat treatment, the root pieces were placed in petri dishes and stored in an incubator. Data on
percent survival for each life stage and amount of time to kill all life stages were collected. The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 1250F water.Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University
In 1994-95, the Oregon Wine Advisory Board supported a cooperative study entitled "Crown gall and
phylloxera in Oregon grape vines: Biology and treatment of planting stock with hot water dips" with
Bernadine Strik and Marilyn Canfield (Larry Moore) as co-principal investigators. We will report our
findings on hot water dips for phylloxera eradication here. Marilyn Canfield has submitted a separate
report on Crown Gall.
We will also report on our preliminary findings on rootstock performance in phylloxerated and nonphylloxerated
sites (funded by the Center for Applied Agricultural Research). A more complete report
on this study will be provided in up-coming industry newsletters.
Hot water dips for eradication of phylloxera. The easiest way to introduce phylloxera to a site is by
infested plant material. If a grower can effectively remove any existing phylloxera on new plants, the
rate of spread of phylloxera in Oregon vineyards will be significantly decreased.
The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
In January 1993 and 1994 all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication. Three root pieces with
established populations of eggs, nymphs, adults, and hibernants were dipped for each time treatment.
After the heat treatment, the root pieces were placed in petri dishes and stored in an incubator. Data on
percent survival for each life stage and amount of time to kill all life stages were collected. The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 1250F water.Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University
In 1994-95, the Oregon Wine Advisory Board supported a cooperative study entitled "Crown gall and
phylloxera in Oregon grape vines: Biology and treatment of planting stock with hot water dips" with
Bernadine Strik and Marilyn Canfield (Larry Moore) as co-principal investigators. We will report our
findings on hot water dips for phylloxera eradication here. Marilyn Canfield has submitted a separate
report on Crown Gall.
We will also report on our preliminary findings on rootstock performance in phylloxerated and nonphylloxerated
sites (funded by the Center for Applied Agricultural Research). A more complete report
on this study will be provided in up-coming industry newsletters.
Hot water dips for eradication of phylloxera. The easiest way to introduce phylloxera to a site is by
infested plant material. If a grower can effectively remove any existing phylloxera on new plants, the
rate of spread of phylloxera in Oregon vineyards will be significantly decreased.
The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
In January 1993 and 1994 all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication. Three root pieces with
established populations of eggs, nymphs, adults, and hibernants were dipped for each time treatment.
After the heat treatment, the root pieces were placed in petri dishes and stored in an incubator. Data on
percent survival for each life stage and amount of time to kill all life stages were collected. The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 1250F water.Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University
In 1994-95, the Oregon Wine Advisory Board supported a cooperative study entitled "Crown gall and
phylloxera in Oregon grape vines: Biology and treatment of planting stock with hot water dips" with
Bernadine Strik and Marilyn Canfield (Larry Moore) as co-principal investigators. We will report our
findings on hot water dips for phylloxera eradication here. Marilyn Canfield has submitted a separate
report on Crown Gall.
We will also report on our preliminary findings on rootstock performance in phylloxerated and nonphylloxerated
sites (funded by the Center for Applied Agricultural Research). A more complete report
on this study will be provided in up-coming industry newsletters.
Hot water dips for eradication of phylloxera. The easiest way to introduce phylloxera to a site is by
infested plant material. If a grower can effectively remove any existing phylloxera on new plants, the
rate of spread of phylloxera in Oregon vineyards will be significantly decreased.
The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
In January 1993 and 1994 all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication. Three root pieces with
established populations of eggs, nymphs, adults, and hibernants were dipped for each time treatment.
After the heat treatment, the root pieces were placed in petri dishes and stored in an incubator. Data on
percent survival for each life stage and amount of time to kill all life stages were collected. The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 1250F water.Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University
In 1994-95, the Oregon Wine Advisory Board supported a cooperative study entitled "Crown gall and
phylloxera in Oregon grape vines: Biology and treatment of planting stock with hot water dips" with
Bernadine Strik and Marilyn Canfield (Larry Moore) as co-principal investigators. We will report our
findings on hot water dips for phylloxera eradication here. Marilyn Canfield has submitted a separate
report on Crown Gall.
We will also report on our preliminary findings on rootstock performance in phylloxerated and nonphylloxerated
sites (funded by the Center for Applied Agricultural Research). A more complete report
on this study will be provided in up-coming industry newsletters.
Hot water dips for eradication of phylloxera. The easiest way to introduce phylloxera to a site is by
infested plant material. If a grower can effectively remove any existing phylloxera on new plants, the
rate of spread of phylloxera in Oregon vineyards will be significantly decreased.
The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
In January 1993 and 1994 all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication. Three root pieces with
established populations of eggs, nymphs, adults, and hibernants were dipped for each time treatment.
After the heat treatment, the root pieces were placed in petri dishes and stored in an incubator. Data on
percent survival for each life stage and amount of time to kill all life stages were collected. The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 1250F water.Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University
In 1994-95, the Oregon Wine Advisory Board supported a cooperative study entitled "Crown gall and
phylloxera in Oregon grape vines: Biology and treatment of planting stock with hot water dips" with
Bernadine Strik and Marilyn Canfield (Larry Moore) as co-principal investigators. We will report our
findings on hot water dips for phylloxera eradication here. Marilyn Canfield has submitted a separate
report on Crown Gall.
We will also report on our preliminary findings on rootstock performance in phylloxerated and nonphylloxerated
sites (funded by the Center for Applied Agricultural Research). A more complete report
on this study will be provided in up-coming industry newsletters.
Hot water dips for eradication of phylloxera. The easiest way to introduce phylloxera to a site is by
infested plant material. If a grower can effectively remove any existing phylloxera on new plants, the
rate of spread of phylloxera in Oregon vineyards will be significantly decreased.
The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
In January 1993 and 1994 all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication. Three root pieces with
established populations of eggs, nymphs, adults, and hibernants were dipped for each time treatment.
After the heat treatment, the root pieces were placed in petri dishes and stored in an incubator. Data on
percent survival for each life stage and amount of time to kill all life stages were collected. The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 1250F water.Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University
In 1994-95, the Oregon Wine Advisory Board supported a cooperative study entitled "Crown gall and
phylloxera in Oregon grape vines: Biology and treatment of planting stock with hot water dips" with
Bernadine Strik and Marilyn Canfield (Larry Moore) as co-principal investigators. We will report our
findings on hot water dips for phylloxera eradication here. Marilyn Canfield has submitted a separate
report on Crown Gall.
We will also report on our preliminary findings on rootstock performance in phylloxerated and nonphylloxerated
sites (funded by the Center for Applied Agricultural Research). A more complete report
on this study will be provided in up-coming industry newsletters.
Hot water dips for eradication of phylloxera. The easiest way to introduce phylloxera to a site is by
infested plant material. If a grower can effectively remove any existing phylloxera on new plants, the
rate of spread of phylloxera in Oregon vineyards will be significantly decreased.
The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
In January 1993 and 1994 all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication. Three root pieces with
established populations of eggs, nymphs, adults, and hibernants were dipped for each time treatment.
After the heat treatment, the root pieces were placed in petri dishes and stored in an incubator. Data on
percent survival for each life stage and amount of time to kill all life stages were collected. The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 1250F water.Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University
In 1994-95, the Oregon Wine Advisory Board supported a cooperative study entitled "Crown gall and
phylloxera in Oregon grape vines: Biology and treatment of planting stock with hot water dips" with
Bernadine Strik and Marilyn Canfield (Larry Moore) as co-principal investigators. We will report our
findings on hot water dips for phylloxera eradication here. Marilyn Canfield has submitted a separate
report on Crown Gall.
We will also report on our preliminary findings on rootstock performance in phylloxerated and nonphylloxerated
sites (funded by the Center for Applied Agricultural Research). A more complete report
on this study will be provided in up-coming industry newsletters.
Hot water dips for eradication of phylloxera. The easiest way to introduce phylloxera to a site is by
infested plant material. If a grower can effectively remove any existing phylloxera on new plants, the
rate of spread of phylloxera in Oregon vineyards will be significantly decreased.
The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
In January 1993 and 1994 all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication. Three root pieces with
established populations of eggs, nymphs, adults, and hibernants were dipped for each time treatment.
After the heat treatment, the root pieces were placed in petri dishes and stored in an incubator. Data on
percent survival for each life stage and amount of time to kill all life stages were collected. The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 1250F water.Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University
In 1994-95, the Oregon Wine Advisory Board supported a cooperative study entitled "Crown gall and
phylloxera in Oregon grape vines: Biology and treatment of planting stock with hot water dips" with
Bernadine Strik and Marilyn Canfield (Larry Moore) as co-principal investigators. We will report our
findings on hot water dips for phylloxera eradication here. Marilyn Canfield has submitted a separate
report on Crown Gall.
We will also report on our preliminary findings on rootstock performance in phylloxerated and nonphylloxerated
sites (funded by the Center for Applied Agricultural Research). A more complete report
on this study will be provided in up-coming industry newsletters.
Hot water dips for eradication of phylloxera. The easiest way to introduce phylloxera to a site is by
infested plant material. If a grower can effectively remove any existing phylloxera on new plants, the
rate of spread of phylloxera in Oregon vineyards will be significantly decreased.
The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
In January 1993 and 1994 all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication. Three root pieces with
established populations of eggs, nymphs, adults, and hibernants were dipped for each time treatment.
After the heat treatment, the root pieces were placed in petri dishes and stored in an incubator. Data on
percent survival for each life stage and amount of time to kill all life stages were collected. The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 1250F water.

 

[PoopyTeaBags]

buy something with met52 in it... The Caps beneficials work well.