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Mont Rolls with the Punches

montroller

Member
I also noticed the hydroton drying out quite a bit in between cycles and getting all white and chalky on top so I upped the flood cycles from every 4 hours to every 3 hours.

And I was also thinking that the 400 cfm exhaust fan might be a little too much to keep running at night. Could that be stressing my plants and stunting growth? I could get a controller to half the speed at night but they are like $100 for a reliable one and I am not sure if I really need it. the space is 172 cubic ft. so the whole room cycles probably twice a minute or a little less due to ducting curves.
 

Arthritis_sucks

The Dude
Veteran
sounds like ya got the problem under control. cold air blowing on plants in not a good thing an it proba ly will bounce back....maybe lol, that one looks bad. maybe try to grab another to replace her or just wait to see how she does. for the fan speed control look into lowes or homedepot for a cheaper alternative.
 
C

crysmatic

You're having huge water/feed issues. Were your clones well rooted? use rockwool - it'll save a bunch of headaches - consistent access to moisture, and hard to over/under water.

I don't believe they're wilting from the T5. it could also be a bacteria/fungus. What is your EC and pH? 450 ppm could be 0.64 ms/cm or 0.9 ms/cm, depending on your instrument. GH recommends 5.0 ml/gal for 'mild vegetative'. I believe that explains your nutrient deficiencies. make sure your plants are healthy before you flower them.

Skip the MH. get them under the HPS asap - watch for stress. They'll only need to veg for 7-14 days at your plant density (maybe a little longer so they can recover first). gl
 

montroller

Member
I was misting the underside of the plants yesterday and saw 2 bugs fly up from them. I did a little research and it looks like either winged root aphids or fungus gnats. Apparently root aphids are a pretty common problem with clones in california and if the colony gets too big they can devastate a harvest.

Hoping to eradicate the problem early I went out and grabbed some bayer tree and shrub and some mosquito dunks. I added a dunk to each res and 5ml/g of the bayer as well.

I am having some trouble finding how long I should let this stay in my res. Do I just feed once with it then switch back to regular nutes or should I feed with it for a couple days before changing the water?

It seems to be OK to use up to 60 days before harvest so I assume it can stay in there for most of the veg, my room mates want to leave it in until the plants show signs of recovery but I read that you should let it run for 3 days then switch the reservoir. Any advice is appreciated.
 

montroller

Member
I did the res change last night so all of that nasty shit is out of there now.

I decided to bump up the nutrients so I went 7.5ml/g of micro and grow and 2.5ml/g of bloom. I also added 3ml/g of 28% h202.

Now all that is left is to wait and hope they bounce back. After only 2 feedings with the new res I can see a bunch of small growth.

6wnY4.jpg

Absolute Blueberry


BkdiT.jpg

Respect OG


Even with all the bug problems in the tent the respect never got too bad. Not sure if this strain is just very resistant to pests or if the colony just never spread to that tray but either way I am happy they didn't get it because OG's are hard enough to grow without extra problems.
 

montroller

Member
Root booster sounds like a good idea. the local hydro store is a 10 minute trip away so maybe I will grab something when I am out today.

I saw GH has a product called BioRoot but I was doing some reading on something called Mycorrihizae and I thought I might to find a product with that instead. which do you think would be more beneficial?

Edit: after doing a little more reading it seems that using h202 in conjunction with the Mycorrhizae will just kill all the beneficial bacteria. So I am wondering even though I added it to the res its affects are supposed to wear off in 4 days, can I just add the beneficials after that 4 day mark and be OK or do I have to do a full res change to be sure?
 

Arthritis_sucks

The Dude
Veteran
I would stick to the h202 an next res change dont use h202. the h202 will clean an kill off damaged roots. to deal with the dead roots left over use cannazyme to turn them into food, an get rhizotonic for root building. Just buy the small bottles of each if ya short on cash otherwise get a liter of each.
 

montroller

Member
I have grow in there also at 7.5ml/g.

The guy at my hydro store sold me on this product called Rhizo Boost. He said to just wait the 4 days for the h202 to dissipate then add the Rhizo Boost at 1/4 tsp/g inside a tea bag and just throw that in the res.
 

burns1n209

Member
Never heard of the tea bag trick, this product sounds similar to the rhizotonic by canna sounds like it will help. How far along are the clones? You can look into a digital temperature controller for your blower problem, i see them for about 65, you just plug blower into the device ans set the temp to whatever and it will turn on when temps get to high or low, helps alot to control temperature fluctuations.
 

Arthritis_sucks

The Dude
Veteran
I hope ya didnt already buy it. if so take it back. Its for soil innoculation an not hydro, even says so on their we site. Did you tell him ur running ebb an flow hydro? Hydro shops are notorious for havin ya buy bullsh#%!. I hear so much bad advice given while at the hydro store. stay away from all teas while running hydro unless u foliar with it.
 

montroller

Member
Reading the bottle it says -
"For Specific Hydroponic/Soilless
A. Add 1/4 tsp per reservoir gallon. Carrier element may sink to bottom this is OK as spores separate from the carrier element.
B. Place fine mesh bag in reservoir at 1/4 tsp per gallon.
CIRCULATE"

That last part worries me because I don't have anything to circulate the reservoir continuously. I think just running the flood and drain cycle should be enough with the airstone added as well.

The bottle doesn't say organic on it but it does say 100% Earth Friendly... whatever that means lol

And I forgot to add that I bought a fan controller. The titan mercury 4 and now my tops stay at 75f perfect and the fan doesn't even run most of the night. Buying that one thing made my system almost 100% automated now all I have to do is check PH, PPM, temp and top off the humidifier twice a day.

Also forgot to add that o the thread that I needed a small room humidifier because humidity was dropping to 30% at night, probably because of the fan. I am still having trouble getting it back to the 50-60 zone but now it stays around 40-50 with the lights on and a little higher at night when the fan turns off.
 

Arthritis_sucks

The Dude
Veteran
not with the air stone but with your res goin bad from introducing an organic substance to the res. usually salt nutes an organic teas dont mix. they do make specific root boosters that dont die off from salt based nutes.
 

montroller

Member
Good thing you are reading this thread AS because that comment sparked me to do a little more digging. Apparently mycorrhizea colonies can be extremely inhibited in water with more than 25ppm phosphorous, which I am easily hitting with the 3 part GH mix I am using. Also the main benefits of mycorrhizea is to allow the roots to absorb water and nutrients that weren't previously available to them but in my hydro system everything is setup to feed the plants so the roots don't really need any help from a fungi.

Tomorrow I will return the rhizo boost and look for something else. They don't have rhizotonic or cannazyme on hand but they can order it. Is it worth it to wait for these ones specifically?
 

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