I've never seen this before.
- Thread starter Ggrow
- Start date
S
Sat X RB
I think this plant is starving. it needs water and food ... in that order.
we need all the info regarding what you have been doing to this plant to help.
food,light,medium as much info about her as you can remember.
food,light,medium as much info about her as you can remember.
Kush Technician
Member
Potassium deficiency? caused by any number of things from ph lockout to underfed plant to watering schedule to pot size ratio to etcetera.
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you need to water that coco more.
are you treating it like soil and only watering it when it dries out?
dollars to donuts the coco is locking shit out and just needs to be fed more with good runoff (like daily)
are you treating it like soil and only watering it when it dries out?
dollars to donuts the coco is locking shit out and just needs to be fed more with good runoff (like daily)
S
SeaMaiden
Rube, is it coir he's working with? If so, he's got a host of problems, IMO, and they only begin with letting it dry out (if he has been doing that).
Extreme Mg-, in my opinion. About as extreme as it gets, because you can see it's progressing to full necrosis and defoliation of the plant. Easily, easily, EASILY 'fixed' (not what's gone dead), by using Epsom salt (MgSO4), starting at a rate of 1/4tsp/gal water.
Kush Technician, a K- begins mid-plant and is much more spotty, necrotic spots. The yellowing pattern is different as well, usually beginning from the tips and working its way back the leaf, without the chlorosis being interveinal. The chlorosis depicted here is highly 'interveinal', and the problem has clearly begun at the bottom leaves that are now completely dead, working its way up the plant. You can see a 'halo' effect of the yellowing, another Mg- tell, IME.
I will share my usual graphic and flow chart to help demonstrate what I mean. I would like to qualify a couple of things about them, especially the pictographic chart. First, it doesn't show Ca- or + at all. Second, the Mg- leaves don't adequately show just how bad a bad Mg- can get. The OP is showing very, very well just how bad a bad Mg- can get (to my eyes). Third, it makes no distinction about where on the plant one would observe these symptoms, and this is important to know in properly diagnosing the issue.
First, pix.
Flow chart, which is a bit simplistic, but I've found helpful no matter.
And another simple chart that may be helpful.
Extreme Mg-, in my opinion. About as extreme as it gets, because you can see it's progressing to full necrosis and defoliation of the plant. Easily, easily, EASILY 'fixed' (not what's gone dead), by using Epsom salt (MgSO4), starting at a rate of 1/4tsp/gal water.
Kush Technician, a K- begins mid-plant and is much more spotty, necrotic spots. The yellowing pattern is different as well, usually beginning from the tips and working its way back the leaf, without the chlorosis being interveinal. The chlorosis depicted here is highly 'interveinal', and the problem has clearly begun at the bottom leaves that are now completely dead, working its way up the plant. You can see a 'halo' effect of the yellowing, another Mg- tell, IME.
I will share my usual graphic and flow chart to help demonstrate what I mean. I would like to qualify a couple of things about them, especially the pictographic chart. First, it doesn't show Ca- or + at all. Second, the Mg- leaves don't adequately show just how bad a bad Mg- can get. The OP is showing very, very well just how bad a bad Mg- can get (to my eyes). Third, it makes no distinction about where on the plant one would observe these symptoms, and this is important to know in properly diagnosing the issue.
First, pix.
Flow chart, which is a bit simplistic, but I've found helpful no matter.
And another simple chart that may be helpful.
Kush Technician
Member
^^ Ahh I had some plants that looked like this and I was thinking K def (was actually root rot or root problems causing uptake issues) but Mg makes more sense given the problem starts at the bottom going up. And the presence of "interveinal chlorosis".
Not sure about using epsom -- I always wondered if the extra sulfur would throw anything out of balance -- but people seem to use it and recommend it. What I do is use cal-mag plus. As far as watering, you can only start to water coco multiple times per day once the roots take over the medium. I always let the coco dry the first week or two in a big pot because this encourages huge healthy fuzzy and brilliantly white roots. Once they explode out the bottom of the pot, then you can start to water like crazy. Good luck.
Not sure about using epsom -- I always wondered if the extra sulfur would throw anything out of balance -- but people seem to use it and recommend it. What I do is use cal-mag plus. As far as watering, you can only start to water coco multiple times per day once the roots take over the medium. I always let the coco dry the first week or two in a big pot because this encourages huge healthy fuzzy and brilliantly white roots. Once they explode out the bottom of the pot, then you can start to water like crazy. Good luck.
Works like a charm and 5$ worth will last you a year.
The extra sulphur doesn't hurt the plants or nute mix one bit.
Expensive product that adds nitrogen and calcium when you need magnesium. Why? (Yes, I'm aware it's been pimped as essential to cannabis growers for over 10 years now. Great marketing department, eh?)
OP... have you checked your roots for aphids? Should spraying with epsom not help... definitely inspect your root zones thoroughly and read up on aphids.
Stay Safe!
Using pure sulfur is bad for the microherd, but sulfates from reasonable amounts of Epsom, etc. are fine. Also, call me paranoid, but you should use a large low power magnifying glass to check the roots for Root Aphids, if for no other reason, to eliminate that possible cause. -granger
