Hey that RE is some expansive stuff, is it worth the $80 for little bottle. Will the stuff I mentioned do the same? Also, is Cedarcide like Gognats, which is cedar oil. I still have some from back in the dark days of FGs. Didn't cut it tho.
Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
Hey that RE is some expansive stuff, is it worth the $80 for little bottle. Will the stuff I mentioned do the same? Also, is Cedarcide like Gognats, which is cedar oil. I still have some from back in the dark days of FGs. Didn't cut it tho.
C
-Capfan-
Read this in the paper
"on Thursday will consider the Parks Board's recommendation that the city stop using a certain pesticide to fight aphids because it doesn't appear to be working.Since 2004, the city has been using imidacloprid on street trees after trying a variety of other treatments to combat aphids, tiny insects that feed on tree sap and excrete a sticky "honeydew" that drips onto sidewalks and cars. In 2009, a local committee began experimenting with different levels of the chemical (including not using any) to see what would control the pests best.
Based on the experiment results, the Parks Board has concluded that applying the imidacloprid at full or half doses isn't any more effective at controlling aphids than not applying it at all.
At times, aphid infestations along certain city blocks have been so bad that citizens have asked the city to cut down their trees."
"on Thursday will consider the Parks Board's recommendation that the city stop using a certain pesticide to fight aphids because it doesn't appear to be working.Since 2004, the city has been using imidacloprid on street trees after trying a variety of other treatments to combat aphids, tiny insects that feed on tree sap and excrete a sticky "honeydew" that drips onto sidewalks and cars. In 2009, a local committee began experimenting with different levels of the chemical (including not using any) to see what would control the pests best.
Based on the experiment results, the Parks Board has concluded that applying the imidacloprid at full or half doses isn't any more effective at controlling aphids than not applying it at all.
At times, aphid infestations along certain city blocks have been so bad that citizens have asked the city to cut down their trees."
Super Aphids! Imid is a systemic so I can see why it may not properly address a terrestrial pest. They must eat the leaves of treated plants, and when they're born with lil ones already ready, coupled w their transitory behavior will make eradication impossible.
Good IPM management for city planners is pest resistant plantings.
Good IPM management for city planners is pest resistant plantings.
Nofriend & Medicalmj,
Yes, I have used it repeatedly. I'm getting ready to fog my room with it, since I'm in a down time with only mothers.
At the same time I'm going to immerse my mothers for 20 mins, followed by a pH'd water flush. Then I will spray leaves with Azasol. This is the soluble, more systemic version of Azadiractin. No phytotoxicity. I will follow that with a root drench with Mycotrol.
I have successfully controlled Root mofo Aphids for the last crop and last half of the previous crop, organically. I also use ben. Nematodes. The Cedarcide is cedar oil with an emulsifier that is particularly toxic to eggs, larvae, and pupae. Most of the multiplication is by live birth of pregnant females, but the flyers lay eggs.
When applying, the 20+ minute immersion of entire rootball, medium, and container is essential to expose all the RA's. Also essential is the flush right after because the Cedarcide can cause root burn, especially as the water evaporates, leaving the Cedarcide more concentrated. Be sure to spray the Cedarcide on the floor and walls.
I have mentioned Cedarcide PCO before in this and other threads, but no one ever, till now, comments. I'm a true believer in it. Smells good too.
Before I bring any medium into my room, I treat it with an immersion and flush. I also use Roots Excelurator, believing it to be the best root stim. and it's essential to speed up the usually slow recovery time from RA's. Good luck. -granger
NOTE: I now [4-10-14] use 2-3 tsp/gal. Higher concentrations cause root damage. Best to try on expendable plants, flush, wait 7-10 days to see if they pass. -granger
Yes, I have used it repeatedly. I'm getting ready to fog my room with it, since I'm in a down time with only mothers.
At the same time I'm going to immerse my mothers for 20 mins, followed by a pH'd water flush. Then I will spray leaves with Azasol. This is the soluble, more systemic version of Azadiractin. No phytotoxicity. I will follow that with a root drench with Mycotrol.
I have successfully controlled Root mofo Aphids for the last crop and last half of the previous crop, organically. I also use ben. Nematodes. The Cedarcide is cedar oil with an emulsifier that is particularly toxic to eggs, larvae, and pupae. Most of the multiplication is by live birth of pregnant females, but the flyers lay eggs.
When applying, the 20+ minute immersion of entire rootball, medium, and container is essential to expose all the RA's. Also essential is the flush right after because the Cedarcide can cause root burn, especially as the water evaporates, leaving the Cedarcide more concentrated. Be sure to spray the Cedarcide on the floor and walls.
I have mentioned Cedarcide PCO before in this and other threads, but no one ever, till now, comments. I'm a true believer in it. Smells good too.
Before I bring any medium into my room, I treat it with an immersion and flush. I also use Roots Excelurator, believing it to be the best root stim. and it's essential to speed up the usually slow recovery time from RA's. Good luck. -granger
NOTE: I now [4-10-14] use 2-3 tsp/gal. Higher concentrations cause root damage. Best to try on expendable plants, flush, wait 7-10 days to see if they pass. -granger
Good info. So twice I have seen Flyer stuck in the trichs looked to just be sitting there and 2 little babies stuck there like the flyer had 2 live little black babies couldnt really I'd them so I put them under the scope and that's when my heart dropped I still couldn't really make it out so It was time for veg transplant so I did and that is when I saw them
All stages in my roots winged,transparent,little red, and hardened green. Fuuuuuuuuuck me!
Bummed out, head down like a mofo
Hit them with merit 75 just wondering if it is a real hit and kill or if I'm gonna be in the same situation in 3 months. Was going to try and apply Roots excel teas etc for root fixing
All stages in my roots winged,transparent,little red, and hardened green. Fuuuuuuuuuck me!
Bummed out, head down like a mofo
Hit them with merit 75 just wondering if it is a real hit and kill or if I'm gonna be in the same situation in 3 months. Was going to try and apply Roots excel teas etc for root fixing
Swarm,
I have RA's on my property, thanks, i speculate, to FoxFarm soil. I have given up on the idea of ever being rid of them once and for all. I guess it's possible, but I've resigned myself to preventive measures for the duration. Previously when I thought I had conquered them, they came back. The cost, in $, frustration and time, is too great to not take preventive measures. These measures also prevent other problems such as Spider Mites, Whitefly, Fungus Gnats. Good luck. -granger
I have RA's on my property, thanks, i speculate, to FoxFarm soil. I have given up on the idea of ever being rid of them once and for all. I guess it's possible, but I've resigned myself to preventive measures for the duration. Previously when I thought I had conquered them, they came back. The cost, in $, frustration and time, is too great to not take preventive measures. These measures also prevent other problems such as Spider Mites, Whitefly, Fungus Gnats. Good luck. -granger
I can't count the number of times I "THOUGHT" I was outta the woods and cruisin to happy sunsets.
SCREECH
WHAM!
GD it THEY'RE STILL HERE.
I have reused rockwool cubes for years and never had an issue that lasted. When I found R/A's the first time, I started microwaving my used cubes and didn't like the results - I thought I had mineral build-up but couldn't get happy plants.
Then I tried treating the roots and plants with 120 F water flush - that killed most all of the plants and the others have been stunted for about a month and still droop quickly in HI lighting - Lite feeding and Hygrozime and still stalled. - I dunno!
Then I got a turkey fryer and started dipping used block into boiling water. I could stack the blocks 4 or 5 tall and drain almost all the water out of the top block. I disected a block and was recording 175+ F temps. Thought that was good. nope. And it started a moldy mildewy odor thing in the used blocks.
Then I tried flushing each block with a gallon of boiling water and I still have R/A's
I've been treating with Botaniguard and now Imid and still finding troubled plants and - the occasional R/A.
Time to take fresh clones and isolate, make em new moms in virgin, sterile blocks.
This is PERSONAL.
I have a theory about Imid and systemics. Root material formed prior to adding the imid contains a lower percentage of imid and new growth contains a higher percentage. - R/A in old town don't get lethal dose and continue to repopulate - some move out some stay the problen remains. Maybe start earlier treatment with Imid.
I'm also wondering if the imid interferes with Botaniguard. Or vise versa.
Did we ever get a liquid Merit-35? Or just the rice still?
SCREECH
WHAM!
GD it THEY'RE STILL HERE.
I have reused rockwool cubes for years and never had an issue that lasted. When I found R/A's the first time, I started microwaving my used cubes and didn't like the results - I thought I had mineral build-up but couldn't get happy plants.
Then I tried treating the roots and plants with 120 F water flush - that killed most all of the plants and the others have been stunted for about a month and still droop quickly in HI lighting - Lite feeding and Hygrozime and still stalled. - I dunno!
Then I got a turkey fryer and started dipping used block into boiling water. I could stack the blocks 4 or 5 tall and drain almost all the water out of the top block. I disected a block and was recording 175+ F temps. Thought that was good. nope. And it started a moldy mildewy odor thing in the used blocks.
Then I tried flushing each block with a gallon of boiling water and I still have R/A's
I've been treating with Botaniguard and now Imid and still finding troubled plants and - the occasional R/A.
Time to take fresh clones and isolate, make em new moms in virgin, sterile blocks.
This is PERSONAL.
I have a theory about Imid and systemics. Root material formed prior to adding the imid contains a lower percentage of imid and new growth contains a higher percentage. - R/A in old town don't get lethal dose and continue to repopulate - some move out some stay the problen remains. Maybe start earlier treatment with Imid.
I'm also wondering if the imid interferes with Botaniguard. Or vise versa.
Did we ever get a liquid Merit-35? Or just the rice still?
granger fan
granger fan
What do you mean successfully? Making it to harvest? How are the yeilds?
granger fan
What do you mean successfully? Making it to harvest? How are the yeilds?
Also Granger,
What is you IPM Schedule with the cedarcide, myocotrol, and ben. nematodes? How often are you immersing the root ball in the cedarcide solution? and are you just making one big bucket of cedarcide solution to use for all the plants? or do I need to make fresh solution for each plant?
What is you IPM Schedule with the cedarcide, myocotrol, and ben. nematodes? How often are you immersing the root ball in the cedarcide solution? and are you just making one big bucket of cedarcide solution to use for all the plants? or do I need to make fresh solution for each plant?
Catfish John
Member
Hello it says on the bayer that it kills thrips too? does anyone have experience with it killing thrips when used as a drench systemic appraoch? Thank you
nofriend,
I actually don't have a strict rigid schedule. I start with the 20 minute Cedarcide immersion [with flush] before bringing the medium and containers [Aerobags with coco80%/ perlite20%] into my room. I add to the Cedarcide solution as needed, not worrying about the color of it going from white to brown.
From there on, I have the Cedarcide PCO Choice on hand, in case there is an outbreak, but haven't had to use it. About a week after transplanting to the 3 gal Aerobags, I immerse them for 20 mins. in full strength Mycotrol, and let drain. I add to the Mycotrol solution as needed, again not worrying about the color change. After that, I use Mycotrol every 2-3 weeks by watering heavily with it.
I've been ordering overwhelming numbers of Beneficial Nematodes approx. monthly. I order 30 million, use half, and store the other half no more than 10 days in fridge, then apply. These are divided between 27 3 gal bags, and to my [about 15] mothers in 6" pots.
I also spray the leaves [no roots] with Azasol, the soluble and quite a bit more systemic version of Azidiractin, at transplant, and during the 1st week of 12/12. This oil free Azidiractin causes no phytotoxicity that I've observed. Great stuff and no more expensive to use than Azamax or Azatrol. Not messy.
My yield on the last crop was better than ever. Plants were healthy till the end, and the potency, taste, smell were great. I have gotten ample high praise on the quality from multiple consumers.
This method is by no means cheap, but it has worked, and I'm still producing quality bud, and I can still look people in the eye and say it's organic. Many chemical remedies people are using with varying success are pricey too. I'm not smoking these chemicals.
And also, I spray the floors, walls, entire outside of AeroBags with Cedarcide every once in awhile. I don't want it to penetrate into the medium because I fear for my tode buddies. I am using EJ nute line and EWC ACT's and I inoculate with Plant Success Soluble. Good luck. -granger
I actually don't have a strict rigid schedule. I start with the 20 minute Cedarcide immersion [with flush] before bringing the medium and containers [Aerobags with coco80%/ perlite20%] into my room. I add to the Cedarcide solution as needed, not worrying about the color of it going from white to brown.
From there on, I have the Cedarcide PCO Choice on hand, in case there is an outbreak, but haven't had to use it. About a week after transplanting to the 3 gal Aerobags, I immerse them for 20 mins. in full strength Mycotrol, and let drain. I add to the Mycotrol solution as needed, again not worrying about the color change. After that, I use Mycotrol every 2-3 weeks by watering heavily with it.
I've been ordering overwhelming numbers of Beneficial Nematodes approx. monthly. I order 30 million, use half, and store the other half no more than 10 days in fridge, then apply. These are divided between 27 3 gal bags, and to my [about 15] mothers in 6" pots.
I also spray the leaves [no roots] with Azasol, the soluble and quite a bit more systemic version of Azidiractin, at transplant, and during the 1st week of 12/12. This oil free Azidiractin causes no phytotoxicity that I've observed. Great stuff and no more expensive to use than Azamax or Azatrol. Not messy.
My yield on the last crop was better than ever. Plants were healthy till the end, and the potency, taste, smell were great. I have gotten ample high praise on the quality from multiple consumers.
This method is by no means cheap, but it has worked, and I'm still producing quality bud, and I can still look people in the eye and say it's organic. Many chemical remedies people are using with varying success are pricey too. I'm not smoking these chemicals.
And also, I spray the floors, walls, entire outside of AeroBags with Cedarcide every once in awhile. I don't want it to penetrate into the medium because I fear for my tode buddies. I am using EJ nute line and EWC ACT's and I inoculate with Plant Success Soluble. Good luck. -granger
CJ,, sometimes you get faster answers if you use that search button near the top of the page.
Bayer isn't my first choice to kill Thrips, they get spinosad.
Identify the pest - use the correct treatment for at least 2 full life cycles. 3 is better and 4 is almost enough in my book.
Neonicitinoids like Imid are systemic and will kill insects that feed on plant tissue. So yes it will kill thrips as long as not over used. Pro greenhouse growers often use things like Tristar, which is the neonicotinoid acetamiprid, to go after insect pests.
oneshot
Active member
I just discovered I have RA on 3/5 my current plants. They are not the flyers yet and are just hanging in the coco below. I just noticed them tonight. The plants started week 6 of bloom right now.
Is it futile to try to stop them now with all sorts of products or should I just let the plants finish how they are and just keep going on as usual to harvest? I am just worried it is going to cause problems in the bud. I realize that it could be my location but I am probably not going to be growing here after this run anyways. I have tried to read as many pages as I could in the panic tonight once I discovered them.
Any quick info could be great. SNS-203 and Merit 75 seem to be recommended but I don't think Merit can be used in bloom?
Is it futile to try to stop them now with all sorts of products or should I just let the plants finish how they are and just keep going on as usual to harvest? I am just worried it is going to cause problems in the bud. I realize that it could be my location but I am probably not going to be growing here after this run anyways. I have tried to read as many pages as I could in the panic tonight once I discovered them.
Any quick info could be great. SNS-203 and Merit 75 seem to be recommended but I don't think Merit can be used in bloom?
No Imid at this point as it takes about 30 days. I called SNS and they swear the drench will work. They said to be sure and follow the directions tho. Let us know if it works. Another other option that is safe this late in flwr would be an Azamax drench. Maybe do both couple days apart.
Another tip is to smear tangle foot around stalk and rim of pot. Then submerse the hole pot into a bucket of the drench. Anything that can't breath under water will get snagged trying to escape.
oneshot
Active member
Thanks. I just picked up some Azamax and Tanglefoot. Someone suggested a wetting agent like CocoWet but since the bugs aren't on the leaves I don't think I will need to do any foliar spraying correct?
I should have both products tomorrow though. I am also going to pickup some of those yellow bug traps in case fliers spawn. Hopefully nothing too bad happened over night
You can do it oneshot.
You can do it oneshot.
I did not notice my RA infestation until week six of 12/12. I started using EWC ACT's with every watering and applying a nice coat of DE to the top of the soil after most waterings. Not sure how effective the DE is. I saw maybe 50 of them running around on top of it. However I know that the DE takes time to work so its hard to say. I ended up with below average yields but great quality. I also dropped my temps to the mid 60's and shortened my light cycle to 10/14 in hope that the plants would ripen sooner. I harvested at 60 days.
You can do it oneshot.
I did not notice my RA infestation until week six of 12/12. I started using EWC ACT's with every watering and applying a nice coat of DE to the top of the soil after most waterings. Not sure how effective the DE is. I saw maybe 50 of them running around on top of it. However I know that the DE takes time to work so its hard to say. I ended up with below average yields but great quality. I also dropped my temps to the mid 60's and shortened my light cycle to 10/14 in hope that the plants would ripen sooner. I harvested at 60 days.
oneshot
Active member
Better believe I am going to start using them on future grows! Which ones do you recommend?
