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Electrical Question
- Thread starter drugscare
- Start date
Any electrical device other than a heater that is getting hot should be cause for concern. You are well over even the advertised limits of the devices - you haven't allowed for ballast losses, which can easily be up to 15% (or more) of the lamp rating. This is the power that it takes to just run the ballast, and isn't part of the nominal rating of the lamp.
Your timer and your plug strip are rated for roughly half of what they are protected for. 1800 watts on 120v is 15 amps, and you said that you have them on a 30 amp breaker? The breaker should be the lightest-rated component in the circuit. If these are plugged into a standard wall socket, you have a true cluster-fuck going - it's a fire waiting to happen, and it doesn't sound like it's waiting patiently.
You need to look at the device nameplates and see how much current they are rated for, and then add up the total for all of the devices. Electrical code calls for a maximum continuous load (over 3 hours) to be no more than 80% of the circuit breaker rating. Plug in timers are notorious for being unable to handle the loads imposed by HID lighting, even if it is within their supposed "rating". If you go to the published specifications for the timer, you will usually find that they have numerous wattage ratings depending on what type of load they are powering - resistive, inductive, motors, etc. Unfortunately, they then advertise the device as being capable of handling "X" watts, and it rarely applies to what actually gets plugged into it. If you are running close to 2000 watts of HID lighting, you are going to need to step up to a very heavy-duty timer like an Intermatic T-103 or use a relay/contactor to switch the power.
Your timer and your plug strip are rated for roughly half of what they are protected for. 1800 watts on 120v is 15 amps, and you said that you have them on a 30 amp breaker? The breaker should be the lightest-rated component in the circuit. If these are plugged into a standard wall socket, you have a true cluster-fuck going - it's a fire waiting to happen, and it doesn't sound like it's waiting patiently.
You need to look at the device nameplates and see how much current they are rated for, and then add up the total for all of the devices. Electrical code calls for a maximum continuous load (over 3 hours) to be no more than 80% of the circuit breaker rating. Plug in timers are notorious for being unable to handle the loads imposed by HID lighting, even if it is within their supposed "rating". If you go to the published specifications for the timer, you will usually find that they have numerous wattage ratings depending on what type of load they are powering - resistive, inductive, motors, etc. Unfortunately, they then advertise the device as being capable of handling "X" watts, and it rarely applies to what actually gets plugged into it. If you are running close to 2000 watts of HID lighting, you are going to need to step up to a very heavy-duty timer like an Intermatic T-103 or use a relay/contactor to switch the power.
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Don't use those digital timers for your lights to dangerous there not rated for that.. You need a T101,Also get some industrial grade outlets rated for 20a.
http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/intitin.html
http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/intitin.html
nukklehead
Active member
Im pretty sure those are both the same
The T-101 has a 120v clock motor and SPST (single-pole, single-throw) contacts. It is capable of switching a single hot wire, so it is used if you are only planning on using 120v for your lighting. The T-103 has a 120v clock motor and DPST (double-pole, single-throw) contacts, so it would be used if you ever want the option of using either 120v or 240v lighting.
that good info rives. I think most use the 101. I dont see many people posting using the 103. I would get the 103 If needed a timmer.
shit shit shit !!!!!! i went in there after two days and the lights were off! now my 1kw mh won't ignite(bad cap?). I put four of my nine ladies into the flowering room and the rest under t-5s. A hard lesson learned. I am going to check on them daily until things balance out again.
