Advanced Nutrients Flowering Additives

[rangergord]

I like the idea of the new PH perfect lines. I am currently running AN 3 part original formula in a flood and drain. I just started flowering and mixed up M G B and some carboload and Bud Blood. Next I will add Big bud and then finish up with Overdrive and final phase.

I have been pleased with the performance of AN but have no controls to conduct any real comparison. The advertising hype is positively ridiculous and in no way equates to reality. I bought them because where I live they were less expensive than even GH and I got a lot of the additives for free.

I run my flood and drain at 600-800 ppm and found AN's light blooming shedule at 1200ppm to lead to burning and lockout. Less grows more in this case.

 

[rangergord]

I like the idea of the new PH perfect lines. I am currently running AN 3 part original formula in a flood and drain. I just started flowering and mixed up M G B and some carboload and Bud Blood. Next I will add Big bud and then finish up with Overdrive and final phase.

I have been pleased with the performance of AN but have no controls to conduct any real comparison. The advertising hype is positively ridiculous and in no way equates to reality. I bought them because where I live they were less expensive than even GH and I got a lot of the additives for free.

I run my flood and drain at 600-800 ppm and found AN's light blooming shedule at 1200ppm to lead to burning and lockout. Less grows more in this case.

 

[LyryC]

I like the idea of the new PH perfect lines. I am currently running AN 3 part original formula in a flood and drain. I just started flowering and mixed up M G B and some carboload and Bud Blood. Next I will add Big bud and then finish up with Overdrive and final phase.

I have been pleased with the performance of AN but have no controls to conduct any real comparison. The advertising hype is positively ridiculous and in no way equates to reality. I bought them because where I live they were less expensive than even GH and I got a lot of the additives for free.

I run my flood and drain at 600-800 ppm and found AN's light blooming shedule at 1200ppm to lead to burning and lockout. Less grows more in this case.

With Ph Perfect you should NEVER follow their Old Non ph perfect calculator. The only reason it is on the site is for the old timers who still have their old products and they complain the most.

With Ph Perfect the additives are always staying the same dosage while the base gets scaled up to what you want it in bloom, for me thats 12ml of part A+B of Sensi Grow ph Perfect. But thats for my 4 foot babies, the 1 foot to 2 footers get 8ml max.

Also you can add w/e you want with your mixes from other nutrient companies and as long as you follow their instructions on dosage and you add them after the base.

A mixing tip for everyone : Always apply your Silicate Nutrients to the water first. All Silicate Additives raise the PH of your mixture and the best way to avoid a hassle from this is the add your silicate to the water first, before the base.

Example: I mix 7ml of rhino skin per gallon of water and always mix it before everything else. It raises the ph from 7.5 to 7.9. After all the ph perfect goodies get added and outside company additives, the ph drifts to a 5.8, sometimes 5.9.

That should help anyone who doesn't deal with ph perfect the most.

 

[oneshot]

A mixing tip for everyone : Always apply your Silicate Nutrients to the water first. All Silicate Additives raise the PH of your mixture and the best way to avoid a hassle from this is the add your silicate to the water first, before the base.

This is not the reason for adding Silica based products first. If you add it after the Nutrients are in the water, it will not bind to the water molecules and will gel up in the water.

 

[TribalSeeds]

Not only that, but rhino was not intended to adjust the ph. thats the whole point of their silicate. Use a real silicate and you will see.
its so watered down in the bottle already that I doubt you need to worry about that crap clouding up your res anyway.

 

[clown baby]

I understand your good intentions, but I didn't purchase anything of AN's because of the marketing. Infact I never read a single ad of theirs if you want to hear the truth.

Wasn't trying to attack you or anything. But it really did seem like you were just quoting ANs marketing rhetoric when you said that bud candy is going to make your buds taste like cotton candy... That's just not how it works. I just wanted to make sure you understand the difference between the actual product and their BS claims about what it does.

Hoping some one with experience behind these products has some feed back to provide, good or bad. Shit I will definitely holler for a brother or sister if something isn't right and they shouldn't use something, but I would be twice as eager to holler if something is working well.

You said you stopped using h2o2. Are you using a substitute like DM zone? Just a heads up, if you are running a sterile res, carboload is pointless. It's just a sugar supplement that's supposed to feed beneficial bacteria. Bud candy has a lot of sugar, too. If you aren't running bennies, you might just want to run B-52, which has a lot of the same stuff as bud candy.

As far as what I've used from AN:

I recently bought a package of their "bud blood." Stopped the stretch of my sativas in their tracks. The actual package only lists monopotassium phosphate, the staple of any PK booster. But if you take a look at their marketing (no one should blindly pay $250+/pound for monopotassium phosphate), they describe it as containing "select kelp extracts." This is a clever way of saying it's got PGRs, more specifically, PBZ (paclobutrazol).

So budblood seems to be a paclo additive (although they obviously aren't going to come out and admit it). It's along the lines of gravity, bushmaster, phosphoload, etc. Stuff works for stopping stretch. I'd read up on paclo before using it, though.

To anyone thinking I am full of shit, spend 5 minutes on google searching around. Look at the way AN describes bud blood, and then look at the way Humboldt describes gravity and bushmaster. They all use the phrase "kelp extract."

Here's a good read:
http://safeaccessnow.org/blog/blog/...nic-store-shelves-before-being-removed-again/
and
http://www.manicbotanix.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=27&Itemid=14

happy growing

 

[whodare]

Jeez maybe advanced would be good if they cold figure labeling, dilution rates, integrity and such.

And maybe if there products didn't all consist of a few cents of salts in a bottle for thirty bucks.

Wtfdik though.

 

[oneshot]

Super Nintendo is better than Sega Genesis

 

[LyryC]

Very interesting

Very interesting

Wasn't trying to attack you or anything. But it really did seem like you were just quoting ANs marketing rhetoric when you said that bud candy is going to make your buds taste like cotton candy... That's just not how it works. I just wanted to make sure you understand the difference between the actual product and their BS claims about what it does.


You said you stopped using h2o2. Are you using a substitute like DM zone? Just a heads up, if you are running a sterile res, carboload is pointless. It's just a sugar supplement that's supposed to feed beneficial bacteria. Bud candy has a lot of sugar, too. If you aren't running bennies, you might just want to run B-52, which has a lot of the same stuff as bud candy.

As far as what I've used from AN:

I recently bought a package of their "bud blood." Stopped the stretch of my sativas in their tracks. The actual package only lists monopotassium phosphate, the staple of any PK booster. But if you take a look at their marketing (no one should blindly pay $250+/pound for monopotassium phosphate), they describe it as containing "select kelp extracts." This is a clever way of saying it's got PGRs, more specifically, PBZ (paclobutrazol).

So budblood seems to be a paclo additive (although they obviously aren't going to come out and admit it). It's along the lines of gravity, bushmaster, phosphoload, etc. Stuff works for stopping stretch. I'd read up on paclo before using it, though.

To anyone thinking I am full of shit, spend 5 minutes on google searching around. Look at the way AN describes bud blood, and then look at the way Humboldt describes gravity and bushmaster. They all use the phrase "kelp extract."

Here's a good read:
http://safeaccessnow.org/blog/blog/...nic-store-shelves-before-being-removed-again/
and
http://www.manicbotanix.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=27&Itemid=14

happy growing

Very interesting. My free Haus and Garden Amino Treatment has a "specific gravity of 1.08 Kg/L"

Then when you look at my Thrive Alive B-1 Green Organic Bottle it has "Macrocystic Kelp, Nereocystis Kelp, and Ascophyllum Kelp" dark as all hell and smells like sea weed.

Whats weird is that Thrive Alive B-1 Red bottle has thee above Green bottle Kelp extracts as well as "Potassium Nitrate, Mono Potassium Phosphate, Diamonium Phosphate, and Ammonium Nitrate". . . just as dark and same smell.

I could swear the Amino Treatment is kelp extract. When I got it and smelled it I instantly went to florida key largo boat dock fish gutting station and that smell of the ocean, the fish, the sea. That's the first sniff, then I just smelt sea weed. The solution is very dark almost black, and very thick, almost creamy. Contrary to my beliefs, H&G states Amino Treatment is from a seed extract, regardless it does wonders.

AN's B-52 is partially derived from what they call "Sea Kelp (Ascophylum nodosum)"

Also Bud Ignitor has "Kelp (Ascophylum nodosum)"

Those were the only AN products I found with Kelp in them.

I tried H202 once, and realized what I have done. I had a lot of great beneficials in my root zones that I wiped clean, unfortunate but thats how you learn.

I do use Piranha and Voodoo Juice. But have since not recharged the rootzones with beneficials since it is part of the schedule to do so at the onset of flower.

Everything is blowing up huge now, My plants are gaining an inch a day, I'm having to raise the light every 2 days. My biggest plants are now reaching the duct, and the seedlings are monsters.

Due to recent events I have to back track. Today I am pruning the girls and they are going to get Naked, lollipoped. Also topping them but not with my usual topping methods, this time I'm giving them a chop.

Check out some pics - last ones for reference.

 

[CANNABEST]

I have not use bud factor x so i dont know. But i use most of the others, big bud, budc candy, ignitor( it catches up 3-5 days) overdrive.
I also use f1 and h2. But dont know if they do anything. Need to do a side by side comp.

I use to used GH line and I think AN is better.

 

[LyryC]

Not only that, but rhino was not intended to adjust the ph. thats the whole point of their silicate. Use a real silicate and you will see.
its so watered down in the bottle already that I doubt you need to worry about that crap clouding up your res anyway.

+ CAN RHINO SKIN AFFECT PH?
Yes, Rhino Skin is a powerful pH Up formula that can dramatically raise pH, even when used in very small amounts. To ensure that Rhino Skin is properly dissolved and distributed in your nutrient water, add it to your reservoir at least two hours before feeding, allowing it to solubulize. Agitate your water before you administer it to plants.

http://www.advancednutrients.com/hydroponics/products/rhino_skin/rhino_skin_faq_nutrient_facts.php

+ WHY CAN ONLY GRAND MASTER GROWERS USE RHINO SKIN?
Rhino Skin is the most effective, concentrated silica product on the market. It affects pH and must be carefully monitored and applied. Grand Master growers are dedicated to spending the time necessary to maximize crop size and yields. They have the time and expertise to properly handle the power of Rhino Skin. As you use the Bigger Yields System and progress up the ladder of success while educating yourself with our gardening information materials, you will one day be a Grand Master so you too can get the benefits of Rhino Skin.

Twice the mention of pH changes. I'm not claiming I use Rhino for pH'ing my water and only advised that since it does raise pH to apply it first if you check ph and adjust it to help you with that. Even though you should not be touching the pH when using pH perfect, and Rhino has pH perfect tech.

And Rhino is watered down, but is still cloudy white and you can't see through it at all. Also doesn't gel up when I mix it, because its good, not junk. Junk clogs the lines and gels up. How are your plants going to uptake nutrients that you can't even mix with the water?

 

[whodare]

No improper mixing causes flocculation, which is why you add the silicate first.

 

[teemu shalanie]

"Rhino Skin is the most effective, concentrated silica product on the market."

pretty sure I just got potassium. siliciate pure, not h20'rd down at all...I like to add it to 2l of hot water to dissolve it , then mix that into res....
as for the bloom nutes I use BB , and the OD , and bud blood week 1 flower....in hydro
TS

 

[TribalSeeds]

+ CAN RHINO SKIN AFFECT PH?
Yes, Rhino Skin is a powerful pH Up formula that can dramatically raise pH, even when used in very small amounts. To ensure that Rhino Skin is properly dissolved and distributed in your nutrient water, add it to your reservoir at least two hours before feeding, allowing it to solubulize. Agitate your water before you administer it to plants.

http://www.advancednutrients.com/hydroponics/products/rhino_skin/rhino_skin_faq_nutrient_facts.php

+ WHY CAN ONLY GRAND MASTER GROWERS USE RHINO SKIN?
Rhino Skin is the most effective, concentrated silica product on the market. It affects pH and must be carefully monitored and applied. Grand Master growers are dedicated to spending the time necessary to maximize crop size and yields. They have the time and expertise to properly handle the power of Rhino Skin. As you use the Bigger Yields System and progress up the ladder of success while educating yourself with our gardening information materials, you will one day be a Grand Master so you too can get the benefits of Rhino Skin.

Twice the mention of pH changes. I'm not claiming I use Rhino for pH'ing my water and only advised that since it does raise pH to apply it first if you check ph and adjust it to help you with that. Even though you should not be touching the pH when using pH perfect, and Rhino has pH perfect tech.

And Rhino is watered down, but is still cloudy white and you can't see through it at all. Also doesn't gel up when I mix it, because its good, not junk. Junk clogs the lines and gels up. How are your plants going to uptake nutrients that you can't even mix with the water?

What I should have said is that AN formulated it to not adjust ph as much. It still adjusts ph slightly, its silicate... However, if you use a real silicate you will see what I mean...
I mix the silica first and never have a problem. My plants love it. I can tell because they start to grow thick stems covered by bark and break my scissors when I try and cut them!
Even Silica Blast raises the PH dramatically and its also diluted.

 

[Sensibowl]

This is a fantastic conversation. Lots of good info. I wish this was on Facebook too so I could share it with growers who haven't taken the time that everyone has to do their research into AN's lineup.

Good stuff here....

 

[LyryC]

I love you

 

[siftedunity]

What I should have said is that AN formulated it to not adjust ph as much. It still adjusts ph slightly, its silicate... However, if you use a real silicate you will see what I mean...
I mix the silica first and never have a problem. My plants love it. I can tell because they start to grow thick stems covered by bark and break my scissors when I try and cut them!
Even Silica Blast raises the PH dramatically and its also diluted.

tribal like i said before i like you man you seem decent but your are a troll on every AN thread there is.


to the op: i like big bud and sensibloom a and b- the rest are a rip off

 

[TribalSeeds]

tribal like i said before i like you man you seem decent but your are a troll on every AN thread there is.


to the op: i like big bud and sensibloom a and b- the rest are a rip off

I dont know if you read all the threads you post in... so here are the ops words
"Example: I mix 7ml of rhino skin per gallon of water and always mix it before everything else. It raises the ph from 7.5 to 7.9. After all the ph perfect goodies get added and outside company additives, the ph drifts to a 5.8, sometimes 5.9."
I also dont know if youve ever used a real silicate, so Ill just leave it at that... but
You troll the defoliation thread by obsessively posting about shit you have no experience with.
You do realize the info I gave is correct right? Read the ops words. 7ml adjusted his ph by a few decimals. Try 7ml of real silicate.
Hey, btw. Ive read your posts and see that you dont understand what the fuck we mean when we talk about ANs marketing. Ive read you seem to think it has something to do with their adds. Ive always wanted to point out to you that its not that at all. Im glad you read my post here.
Ive read your other posts, and I remember my posts. Im glad I finally got through to you about buying just a liter or gallon at a time.

 

[clown baby]

Very interesting. My free Haus and Garden Amino Treatment has a "specific gravity of 1.08 Kg/L"

Then when you look at my Thrive Alive B-1 Green Organic Bottle it has "Macrocystic Kelp, Nereocystis Kelp, and Ascophyllum Kelp" dark as all hell and smells like sea weed.

Whats weird is that Thrive Alive B-1 Red bottle has thee above Green bottle Kelp extracts as well as "Potassium Nitrate, Mono Potassium Phosphate, Diamonium Phosphate, and Ammonium Nitrate". . . just as dark and same smell.

I could swear the Amino Treatment is kelp extract. When I got it and smelled it I instantly went to florida key largo boat dock fish gutting station and that smell of the ocean, the fish, the sea. That's the first sniff, then I just smelt sea weed. The solution is very dark almost black, and very thick, almost creamy. Contrary to my beliefs, H&G states Amino Treatment is from a seed extract, regardless it does wonders.

AN's B-52 is partially derived from what they call "Sea Kelp (Ascophylum nodosum)"

Also Bud Ignitor has "Kelp (Ascophylum nodosum)"

Those were the only AN products I found with Kelp in them.

I tried H202 once, and realized what I have done. I had a lot of great beneficials in my root zones that I wiped clean, unfortunate but thats how you learn.

I do use Piranha and Voodoo Juice. But have since not recharged the rootzones with beneficials since it is part of the schedule to do so at the onset of flower.

Everything is blowing up huge now, My plants are gaining an inch a day, I'm having to raise the light every 2 days. My biggest plants are now reaching the duct, and the seedlings are monsters.

Due to recent events I have to back track. Today I am pruning the girls and they are going to get Naked, lollipoped. Also topping them but not with my usual topping methods, this time I'm giving them a chop.

Check out some pics - last ones for reference.

I agree with you about the H&G. A lot of their additives smell overwhelmingly like kelp and molasses. Kelp and molasses are great for your plants, but some of the prices are exorbitant.

Kelps a great additive, and I'm definitely not saying that every product that lists kelp is using paclo, but there are definitely companies out there adding PGRs like paclo and labeling it under the guise of "kelp extract". Shady stuff.

 

[whodare]

Yep keep buying your shady unlabeled nutrients, and selling the product to sick people calling it medicine when you don't even know what you put in it...