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Spiders Mites. I finally got em'

dr.penthotal

Chasing the orange grapefruit rabbit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
unfortunately spinosad is not effective at all on mites. it is an eraser bomb for thrips, but not for mites... :)
prevention is the key in pest menagment. it is always a fight, constant, continuous against all insects that want to eat our precious crop kept in an equatorial enviroment with no enemies which is the growroom. sort of cradle for pest...
that sucks.

a strategy in prevention is to use neem oil and essential oils to spray every week till the appearence of calyxes and resin.
if I have an infestation going I use agricoltural oil, pine oil, neem oil and rosemary and lavender organic extract. I mix it with soap and a few drops of alcool to emulsify better. (check ph as many soaps tend to raise a lot ph, and it would make neem oil ineffective.)
ll the room smells beautiful.
this kills by suffocating all the mites and eggs, plus neem oil fucks the growth hormone system of mites.
don't overdo with spray strenght, spray both sides of the leaves and stems. protect roots with some foil.
don't let the root be suffocated as well.
this solution takes effect when it evaporates and dries up the victims or their eggs. (mites eggs are well exposed to this and die fast, thrips's eggs are hatched inside the leaf, sort of protected from sprays)
this happens with temperature. avoid sudden drop of temps when applying oils, it will prolong time needed to evaporate and helps oil toxicity to the leaf.
so I don't turn off lights completely, I just take the highest in the room and turn off the half of them.

next, after evaporation took place, I was leaves and everything with act and a bit of kelp to restore the life on the plant and help to neutrilize the harm Im doing to the plant.

this is the time to increase humidity and let the plants feed and bacterias and fungi replicate in the dark in an humid enviroment. so I turn the lights off for a couple of hours.

please don't spray chemicals or shit on the medicine you're going to use. this shit won't ever go really away from your buds.

predators are good when applied very early. they won't wipe out mites as oils do in a cheaper way.
they can stitch to resin in flowering time also.

prevention is the cure. anyone can be a vector. apply the same rules as a surgery room for it and you'll stay free of pests. change your clothes and shoes when entering, don't take in any foreign material without quarantine, whach out for pets.
hope this helps bro
a grower cannot be said so if he had never won the war against pest, so it's everyone's problem mate!
take care
Dr.P
 
J

jerry111165

unfortunately spinosad is not effective at all on mites. it is an eraser bomb for thrips, but not for mites.

Totally not true. I have used Captain Jacks Deadbug (spinosad) to completely eradicate a mite infestation with 2 applications - The first one to wipe out the mites and the second application to break the egg cycle.

Completely, 100% GONE.

J
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
RE: Spinosad

Hope this will save the Spinosad users some serious money - like 50%

Eli Lilly has the license in the USA to manufacture products that contain Spinosad - pesticides, pet flea medicine (Comfortis, et al). It's their deal.

Lilly has licensed two companies to package the concentrate - Monterey Garden Products and Bonide (Capt. Jack's Deadbug Brew) and both are the exact product, same mixing ratios, etc.

At retail nurseries, the Bonide product is around $22.00 for 16 oz. which is 4 gallons at the suggested application information on the label.

Monterey Garden Products Spinosad - Concentrate costs about the same but you get 32 oz. which gives you 8 gallons. (Amazon.com did carry this but there are other sources) Just make sure that you get the Concentrated version because under this same label they do have ready-to-apply Spinosad spray - worthless.

CC
 
Anyone try mighty wash in flower? Not sure if it's truely organic but the makers say its 99 % water..sounds like a scam to me but people say it actually works, supposed to give pests some type of electric shock ...
 

Oregonism

Active member
I hate doing this, but Eli Lilly is the only importer of legal cocaine in the country. They got their start in the 1800's in St. Louis. They sold and sell to Coca-Cola, they have also been involved with NIDA in some capacity as per Professor El Sohly.

It's ironic, that they are involved[in the US] and fighting to end, the very thing we are here for! I know it doesn't have a goddamned thing for this post and I apologize and Cootz is point on, time and time again......
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
You wouldn't believe the number of research at the university that are funded in part by Lilly. Monsanto gets most of the press on these shenanigans, as they should, but they're definitely not alone in feeding at the public trough.

Fund a research project then when the university sets up a company to sell a product or service in conjunction with the original funding source until all expenditures have been paid for, then sell the company completely. With tax breaks included - it's an amazing way we conduct research in this country.

"Manufactured Results"

CC
 

Oregonism

Active member
You wouldn't believe the number of research at the university that are funded in part by Lilly. Monsanto gets most of the press on these shenanigans, as they should, but they're definitely not alone in feeding at the public trough.

Fund a research project then when the university sets up a company to sell a product or service in conjunction with the original funding source until all expenditures have been paid for, then sell the company completely. With tax breaks included - it's an amazing way we conduct research in this country.

"Manufactured Results"

CC


I don't disagree, that's why I try to test as much as possible in-house.
 
S

Scrappy-doo

Fuck brother I feel your pain. Not long ago I had the great experience of webs on my buds with only a week or 2 to go. Never had mites that bad before. I don't think there's a whole lot you can do about plants that late in flower, but the buds that have webs on them can be dunked in a bucket of water and gently wash off the mites and web with your hands. They'll come back in a few days or start webbing up another bud, so you'll have to repeat a couple times, but it'll work well enough to save the buds. Well, that is... if you don't mind smoking a little mite poop.

For next round, nothing beats Forbid. I put 7 drops in a liter spray bottle along with a couple drops of dish soap. Easy as can be.
 

idiit

Active member
Veteran
What can i do to make sure this crop makes it, and also that it does not spread to other crops?
ok, has ^this q. been answered?

i've got some genetics i can't afford to lose. i prefer organics but i will protect my genetics at the expense of "being organic" every time. if the solutions do not work the grower might end up losing his entire veg and flowering gardens. if he is running clones that are nearly impossible to replace then this mite issue becomes catastrophic from a genetic perspective.

is there a reliable effective organic solution to spider mites?

will spraying the posted organic remedies ruin the soon to be harvested bud?

should the grower finish flowering and then spray all grow areas with the organic remedies?
 
J

jerry111165

Idiit - There are always organic remedies, and yes - they do work just fine, although, like anything else - maintenance and being proactive is key.

I personally, simply do not have issues anymore, due to being proactive and having a maintenance program.

J
 

Dkgrower

Active member
Veteran
So I have never had spider mites. Well now I can't say that. I have some plants ready to harvest in about 2 weeks or so, and I noticed some webbing on an upper bud this morning. What can i do to make sure this crop makes it, and also that it does not spread to other crops?

Thanks for the help. I hear these little dudes can be a motherfucker.


Damm that sucks, i have been fighting against them fore a long time, before i went organic i used a systemic poison 2 times on every grow 1 in veg and 14days into flower.

Now i dont really have a problem with them, this is what i do.

Indoors i keep the humidity high in mother room and in grow and flower room. 80 to 75 %

Only when buds become compact and bud rot is at risk i lower the humidity.

I always get some in my mothers when i put them outside during summer time.

If they are to infected i make some nicotine water and foliar feed that.

Or els i just use predator mites

Same treatment is used in the greenhouse.

A note on using predator mites u need to keep the humidity high or els they got bad conditions to fight the spider mites and it will not work.

First wet the plants before u apply the mites and keep the humidity high over the next 3 weeks, first then are they gorn with predator mites, its not a fast kill spree but a slow process.

Link to some info on plant based insecticides

http://www.avtreefarm.com/files/natural insecticides.htm

So Org, i think that u can use some nicotine water on that crop if u fell fore it. I dont think u can get the plants back on track but maby u could get alittel extra on the plant if u help em alittel.

Regarding spreading to other rooms, ect. I would clean down every thing in the flower room, put soil on the compost and give to u outdoor garden. Clean pots and start to inspect u plants every 3 day to see if u go spider mites in other rooms. Then if u got then use some insecticides, but rember to keep humidity high as much as possibol.

The faster u act and dont be lasy, u dont want them to settel in.

Just to scare u i know pepol that have them all the time and there yeild is low because they always in end flower start to gain hold and start to fuck with the plants grow, they vacuume clean there plants =)

:ying:
 
J

johndoe123

Surprised have not seen this yet. I always used a shop vac to get rid of webs and mites off plants that were close to harvest. I got tired of the fight with mites so I started a whole round of new genetics with a down time in each room for proper cleaning. I sure don't miss the spraying neem and all the b.s. that goes with the bugs....
 

Bloom

Member
Not sure about in flower, but I use Mighty Wash to prevent and to kill them if they show up, there gone for the rest of the grow, good stuff. Good luck
 

Ganja baba

Active member
Veteran
I like this



I will recommend a regimen of isopropyl alcohol mixed with water applied every three days as a foliar application. Start with a 50:50 mix, and increase the iso if needed. Everything else mentioned may leave a flavor or scent, and I have not been able to experience relief using the lavender due to acquisition/volume problems.

If the mites are thick, there's a trick my son showed me that I call
Blowing Fan
Green Bamboo

He puts a fan directly on the affected plants, and they have a stick of GREEN bamboo stuck into the pots. He makes certain that the fan is causing a lot of leaf shake, and that the bamboo is touching some of the leaves, especially near the top. He says that a large portion of the mite population then migrates over the next couple of days onto the bamboo because they perceive that it is stable whereas the plant is not. He then takes a paper towel (soaked in Forbid4f, unfortunately, I think he could use something a lot less likely to create resistance) and wipes the mites off the bamboo stake.

This activity of spider mites was anecdotally confirmed for me by another grower who observed mites migrating to the 'tops' (main stalk) of harvested plants, and then he could see them all gathered there, waving their little legs looking to hitch a ride.
 

SwampyTHC

Member
Ive always used nite nite spider mite gentle spray over and under make sure you do under leaves as This is where there eggs usually are. Good luck bro
 

Lochinvar

Member
Surprised have not seen this yet. I always used a shop vac to get rid of webs and mites off plants that were close to harvest. I got tired of the fight with mites so I started a whole round of new genetics with a down time in each room for proper cleaning. I sure don't miss the spraying neem and all the b.s. that goes with the bugs....

this late and webs... shop vac like he said. avid and forbid should not be necsesary for regular ol' spider mites. even if you went that route, it is way way to late. i encourage you to not even consider it. get your room dialed in and dont skimp on air circulation. be clean and dont exept any friendly gifts
 

Mick

Member
Veteran
Maybe think of harvesting early and make some oil.
When I've had mites during flowering, I water the plant with organic cold pressed neem every few days. The plant sucks up the neem through the roots and then zaps any mite that bites into it. Takes about a week for the webs to stop forming which you can pick off with something sharp. Watering with cold pressed neem once a week is a fantastic preventive.
 
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