How long sticking out from the collar? What kind of water are you using? What kind of lights and distance from?
Problem with ez-cloner...soft stems...HELP!!!!!!
- Thread starter ThePizzaMan
- Start date
How long sticking out from the collar? What kind of water are you using? What kind of lights and distance from?
A
ak-51
Average stem below the collar is probably 1 to 1 and 1/2 inches.
Plain tap water. At various points I have used H2O2, Physan 20, silica and superthrive; in various combinations, I've also run just plain tap water with absolutely nothing in it. Currently there is silica and physan 20 in it.
Water temps were low 70s with the cycle timer on and now high 70s with the pump on 24/7. I can never read those color change temp strips right so I just use my laser thermometer.
1' x 2' 4 bulb T5 fixture. 6-10 inches from the tops of the cuts.
I have the 60 site EZ-Cloner. I think it's the newest version since it didn't come with an air pump. I heard the early ones used to come with one.
Plain tap water. At various points I have used H2O2, Physan 20, silica and superthrive; in various combinations, I've also run just plain tap water with absolutely nothing in it. Currently there is silica and physan 20 in it.
Water temps were low 70s with the cycle timer on and now high 70s with the pump on 24/7. I can never read those color change temp strips right so I just use my laser thermometer.
1' x 2' 4 bulb T5 fixture. 6-10 inches from the tops of the cuts.
I have the 60 site EZ-Cloner. I think it's the newest version since it didn't come with an air pump. I heard the early ones used to come with one.
Running an powercloner 165 and 4 smaller ones for years, I have learned that once you get root rot into the system, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO GET RID OF IT!!!
I did everything possible to try to kill the rot, even soaking my systems in the swimming pool for a week, so the chlorine would kill it, didnt work...
Only way I git rid of it, was going back to rw cubes. Threw all the cloners away..
I did everything possible to try to kill the rot, even soaking my systems in the swimming pool for a week, so the chlorine would kill it, didnt work...
Only way I git rid of it, was going back to rw cubes. Threw all the cloners away..
High 70's is perfect, and plain tap is good. Only thing I can see for sure is the lights are probably too intense to root under. Try unscrewing two of the 4 bulbs and raising the fixture up to around 16"-18" or so.
I also find that I get roots faster when I use the cycle timer set to 1/5, but if the water gets below 75F I will throw in a cheap aquarium heater set to about 80F. Also if you use tap water you really don't need any additives at all IME, but with tap YMMV.
Well..I just posted in another thread with similar problems.
After multiple rounds check your sprayers. I'll bet you have little bits of old roots stuck in the spray heads. No amount of bleaching, disinfecting, etc. will get rid of them...and they will ruin your results (seemingly in explicitly)
You need to get something that will fit in the little opening of the spray heads...I use a piece of a green plant tie trimmed to a point to stick through them. Once you clear them out you should be back to your original results.
Good luck
After multiple rounds check your sprayers. I'll bet you have little bits of old roots stuck in the spray heads. No amount of bleaching, disinfecting, etc. will get rid of them...and they will ruin your results (seemingly in explicitly)
You need to get something that will fit in the little opening of the spray heads...I use a piece of a green plant tie trimmed to a point to stick through them. Once you clear them out you should be back to your original results.
Good luck
A
ak-51
I basically did my last ditch attempt at cleaning my EZ-Cloner today.
For the past 24 hours I was running a super dose (30mL / 10 Gallons) of Physan20 in there to sterilize everything I could with that. Today I took it apart and rinsed it off well. I disassembled every part that is user-serviceable and cleaned it. I ran the pump and manifold in bleach water for 30 minutes or so. I directly sprayed the nozzles out with my hose on jet stream to knock anything in there off. I took the impeller out of the pump and manually cleaned the inside of that. Also cleaned the threads between the manifold and pump as they had some crud in there too. Took apart the drain cap assembly and cleaned each part of that individually. Sprayed everything with 99% rubbing alcohol and let that dry.
Put it back together and put in regular tap water pH'd to 5.6. Cut all of my clones carefully, making the final cut underwater and then putting it directly into the cloner running. Have the whole thing full right now (60).
I really need this thing to work. Obviously cloning is a critical part of my work.
For the past 24 hours I was running a super dose (30mL / 10 Gallons) of Physan20 in there to sterilize everything I could with that. Today I took it apart and rinsed it off well. I disassembled every part that is user-serviceable and cleaned it. I ran the pump and manifold in bleach water for 30 minutes or so. I directly sprayed the nozzles out with my hose on jet stream to knock anything in there off. I took the impeller out of the pump and manually cleaned the inside of that. Also cleaned the threads between the manifold and pump as they had some crud in there too. Took apart the drain cap assembly and cleaned each part of that individually. Sprayed everything with 99% rubbing alcohol and let that dry.
Put it back together and put in regular tap water pH'd to 5.6. Cut all of my clones carefully, making the final cut underwater and then putting it directly into the cloner running. Have the whole thing full right now (60).
I really need this thing to work. Obviously cloning is a critical part of my work.
The problem is that you DID NOT scrub inside the manifold....
Running 100% bleach or VERY hot water wont even clean it, it NEEDS to be scrubbed or completely replaced or you problems will come back...
Just speaking from personal experience....
A
ak-51
The problem came back. I'm at about 10 days now and I see no signs of roots and the clones are starting to yellow and wilt.
The middle of the collars on the bottom have a white slime and some of the roots are covered in it as well.
The middle of the collars on the bottom have a white slime and some of the roots are covered in it as well.
A
ak-51
I think I'm going to mosey on into the hydro shop today and see what prices are looking like for replacing the manifold and collars. I cleaned both but I feel like maybe they just can't be cleaned well enough as krunch stated.
I have managed to keep things rolling in spite of this problem up until this point, but if I can't pull clones off really soon then it's going to start hurting me.
I have managed to keep things rolling in spite of this problem up until this point, but if I can't pull clones off really soon then it's going to start hurting me.
While I don't have experience to tell anyone how to do stuff, I do have clones standing tall and green after 3 weeks.
For your consideration:
1] drill holes in bottom of beer cups
2] fill with mixture of starter soil and NAPA floor dry
3] Cut, dip, and stick
4] set cups in a container with approx 1 inch water [superthrive added to mine]
5] mist and use hood first week
6] remove from wick reservoir and mist with hood for 1 more week Now you're giving them wet-dry cycles watering when needed Add an outside cup with no holes now
7] during third week, remove hood and start hardening them off to better light
This is a combination of several techniques shown in the cloning threads. I like the wick system because moisture is always correct. Note: I ignored the perched water table issue for cloning. In one of the wick cloning threads, the OP said that you don't need a hood with a wick setup.
This technique works for me. I have 5 of 5 clones. Don't flame me too bad. bg
For your consideration:
1] drill holes in bottom of beer cups
2] fill with mixture of starter soil and NAPA floor dry
3] Cut, dip, and stick
4] set cups in a container with approx 1 inch water [superthrive added to mine]
5] mist and use hood first week
6] remove from wick reservoir and mist with hood for 1 more week Now you're giving them wet-dry cycles watering when needed Add an outside cup with no holes now
7] during third week, remove hood and start hardening them off to better light
This is a combination of several techniques shown in the cloning threads. I like the wick system because moisture is always correct. Note: I ignored the perched water table issue for cloning. In one of the wick cloning threads, the OP said that you don't need a hood with a wick setup.
This technique works for me. I have 5 of 5 clones. Don't flame me too bad. bg
A
ak-51
No. I was running errands today and I meant to look for that at the store but I forgot about it. I'll go tonight or tomorrow and look for some to mix up.
The shop said they would replace my manifold.
I am probably going to buy all new collars too.
The shop said they would replace my manifold.
I am probably going to buy all new collars too.
Which leaves start to show symptoms first? Is it the older ones yellowing first, or those youngest at the growing tips wilting and browning?
A
ak-51
The oldest/largest ones.
I've had experiences similar to your's, but with my cuttings it is the youngest growing tips that first show distress.
Whatever it is, it has shut me down. Got worse and worse over a year. I've tried chlorine bleach, pool shock, physan 20, mycorrhizae, earthworm casting tea, copper sulphate, four minute on one minute off timer, and UV sterilizers. Haven't successfully rooted a cutting in six months now. Totally sucks.
