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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

yerboyblue

Member
For recurrent infestations chemicals are unreliable and insanely expensive as well as stupid and sedentary. You need to source some organic predators that target root aphids of which there are MANY and they are easy to propagate once purchased like all organic predators just google their food source and care. There are many very professional insectaries located in California. Organic predators are incredibly more effective than chemical ferts these chemical companies are pushing on people just like the 1000% mark up on bottled organic chemicals or synthetics trying to mimic them.

Good luck although with predators you don't need it as the job is done in a day or two.

Thanks for all the specific listings of predators and links, as well as a place to find contact info for their sources, and how they saved your garden from RA. It really helped a lot.
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
MITES! Guess the threads evolving away from gnats. Anyway, after countless hours and sleepless nites, I believe I know what SOME of the mites are, Oribatid or Astigmatid mites(both harmless). Unfortunately, some of you may have bad mites, like the dreaded bulb mite or maybe some mutated grape phylloxera that attacks herb.

Anyway, for those whose gardens are healthy and you have thousands of microscopic mites, you have one or more of the countless soil mite species that are supposed to be in healthy soil.

Anyone that has chlorosis or stunted growth I wish you luck and please keep us updated.

Also. plant parasitic nematodes will also cause the symptons that are being described. And there are more plant parasitic nematodes than bad mites. So the probablity is much higher that nematodes are to blame. You'll need a scope.
 

MF Grimm

Member
Can't get rid of them :(

I don't have any mature ones or winged flyers, but I have a few of the small nymphs here and there. SM-90 on contact seems to kill them, but there are always a few that remain to continue on the cycle :(

I'm only on Day 7 of flower out of 63, so I really hope I can keep these suckers at bay. After this run, complete nuking of room is in order.
 

mobius

New member
i'm a little concerned because i'm at the beginning of the 3rd of flower and i'm noticing some things that are taken as signs of root aphids. i'm still a noob so i'm not sure if it's me doing something wrong but the bottom leaves on some of my plants are are turning yellow, then brown, twisting, curling up and falling off. i am very conservative with nutes and check my PH every water, so what could it be? cal-mag deficiency? i'm only using molasses with fox farm growbig/bigbloom/tiger bloom, never more than a teaspoon of each. i am using tapwater and soil for my plants, could it be salt or toxic build up? i feed every water but never more than a teaspoon of bloom nutes. could it be PH fluctuating for some reason? or is my plant becoming rootbound? (they were getting kinda big before i flipped the switch)... I am worried because i just foudn about abotu these critters and I saw what I thought at the time were fungus gnats but now i'm not so sure....
 
I had root aphids on my last grow it slowed growth one or two branches showing what looked like nute burn but was those bugs eating roots I read most of this thread and decided to give them a root drench with safer soap with perintium and did it for ten minutes instead of the recommend two it killed my plant but the clones only got a two minute drench and survived fine. Just to let people know safer soap works you just have to time it or you could waste more than a months growth better off doing it a week apart for only two minutes at a time than to try to kill them all at once or the bugs won't be the only things dead.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
I've used Insect. Soap as a soak for 20 minutes, let drain for about 10, then flushed with water to remove the soap with success. If you don't flush, the soap will damage roots. Soaking for 20 mins gets the whole root ball penetrated with soap. Otherwise the villians will survive if they are high up in the center. They will then keep giving live birth to more pregnant females. -Granger
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
i'm a little concerned because i'm at the beginning of the 3rd of flower and i'm noticing some things that are taken as signs of root aphids. i'm still a noob so i'm not sure if it's me doing something wrong but the bottom leaves on some of my plants are are turning yellow, then brown, twisting, curling up and falling off. i am very conservative with nutes and check my PH every water, so what could it be? cal-mag deficiency? i'm only using molasses with fox farm growbig/bigbloom/tiger bloom, never more than a teaspoon of each. i am using tapwater and soil for my plants, could it be salt or toxic build up? i feed every water but never more than a teaspoon of bloom nutes. could it be PH fluctuating for some reason? or is my plant becoming rootbound? (they were getting kinda big before i flipped the switch)... I am worried because i just foudn about abotu these critters and I saw what I thought at the time were fungus gnats but now i'm not so sure....

Pull one of your plants from it's pot (if in pots) and examine the roots carefully with a scope. Be patient, and if you have RAs, you will see them.
Then treat with Botaniguard in flower.
 

turbo14

Active member
Veteran
^Let me just break out the $1500 for the gallon of Movento, alright, there we go.


Or take the time to research and read labels. Ultor is a different dilution of the active ingredient in Movento and is only $280 a bottle.

Rotation, rotation, and more rotation. This is working to remove these fuckers from my 4000 plant garden. Believe me, I've tried almost everything. Organic and not. So go sell a bag and save your garden:)

turbo
 
I've used Insect. Soap as a soak for 20 minutes, let drain for about 10, then flushed with water to remove the soap with success. If you don't flush, the soap will damage roots. Soaking for 20 mins gets the whole root ball penetrated with soap. Otherwise the villians will survive if they are high up in the center. They will then keep giving live birth to more pregnant females. -Granger

Good point if I did a flush my plant would still be alive it makes sense too bad nobody else had said it before thanks.
 

turbo14

Active member
Veteran
Turbo, what was your application rate of the Ultor and did you apply it as a foliar spray or root drench?

Foliar only. 2 TSP per gallon along with a wetting agent.

So, how I am beating aphids.

Mallet and Ultor in Veg.

Met52 day 1 of Flower

Compost Tea once a week with over 25 different beneficial bacteria.

See ya aphids.

turbo:thank you:
 

MF Grimm

Member
Well, I think I lost this go around :(

Everything I tried and they still comeback.

I'm only on Day 8, and with as yellow as the tops look, I don't think I'm ever going to make it to term this run.
 

LilMissPuffIt

New member
We won with merit75 and kontos in veg. Same combo as turbo. It's weird though I never could get the plants healthy at that grow again and they have been scraped. Last harvest off 9 lights was 14lbs and the bud was OK.

My personal grow (6kw) we gave up and started from seed after a few weeks downtime. Luckily the raskal seeds I popped gave me some phenotypes that rivaled what I was growing before or we would be in bad shape. Non med state here so getting genetics from a serious grower is more difficult.
 

turbo14

Active member
Veteran
Well, I think I lost this go around :(

Everything I tried and they still comeback.

I'm only on Day 8, and with as yellow as the tops look, I don't think I'm ever going to make it to term this run.

Don't give up!

I have brought back plants from the dead with almost no fan leaves left.

Soil, Coco, and Hydro growers can apply this tea via Foliar sprays.

5 gallon Bucket and a decent sized air pump, 1 or two stones minimum.

4 Gallons RO or dechlorinated Water
1 Cup Earthworm Castings
1 Cup Alaskan Humisoil
50ml Molasses
50ml Fish and Seaweed

Brew for 24 hours till that baby is foamin'

PH to 6.3-6.5

Apply right when the lights go off.

50/50 dilution with water.

Tea should be kept bubbling and used within 24 hours of when ready.

This tea is conjunction with proper preventives (Imid) and bio-insecticides (met-52) will overturn any buggers. There are over 10 Billion species of beneficial organisms in 1ml of aerated compost tea.

Try this recipe on 1 plant in your garden next to another that you didn't. Simply put "Proof's in the Puddin"

Let's fuck shit up:moon:

turbo
 

Tyga

Active member
Veteran
Def think this is root aphids.... perfectly healthy in veg and right when they are thrown under 12/12 under the HPS they slowly start showing symptoms of all sorts. And the only thing that has changed is the room that they are in and the feeding method (Blumats instead of hand water) Heres a few shots.... I've been trying to figure this out for months and cancelled out all other possibilities.... Heres a few shots.
Whats my best bet to knock these suckers out? Or should I just start fresh? I'm going to give that compost tea suggested a try but anything else I should do? Met52 is mixed into the soil prior so I don't think thats an option at this point? Correct me if I'm wrong.... But I'm thinking a compost tea mixed with some sort of soil drench may be my best option...
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I

Iron_Lion

compost tea doesn't kill bugs. get some poison and fry the fuckers or throw everything out and start over.
 

vukman

Active member
Veteran
This guy that I'm adding the link to is very good with his prices and will ship to Canada, which was an issue for me seeing most will not ship insecticides internationally. Had no problems receiving the stuff either.
Bought 'Spinosad' and 'Criterion 75 WSP Imidacloprid 75%' which I'm guessing is the same as Merit 75.
http://stores.ebay.ca/The-Landscape...ub=604947&_sid=27162618&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

The other thing was mosquito dunks....again from ebay
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/budgetlaptopssouth/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

The combination of the two did the job for me although I am sure one would have worked just as fine. Sort of regretting using the 'Imid' as it's a systemic but I, as many others here, had just had enough and wanted the little fuckers gone!!!!!!!!!

Good Luck to everyone battling these and other pests........
 

terminalc

Farmer
ICMag Donor
Capitulators beneficials that contain met in a worm tea, moving my veg farther away from my bloom, stopping perpetual, switching from coco to soil, and switching from pots to disposible grow bags finally got them for me, after almost 2 years of battling.

I tried almost every pesticide to no avail, im sure some were misapplied though, when dealing with RA i would dunk each individual plant. I bought some met52 that was somewhat effective, but i was growing in coco and using gh nutes so i think it was just dieing after a few days and never inoculating the medium.

One of the issues was keeping general plant health high while applying pesticides.

I feel sorry for anyone who has a problem with these, they almost broke me.
 
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