Runny amber help needed

[Olifant]

I may be wrong but I believe jump was referring to a butane recovery system, the only ones I'm aware of are DIY. Gray Wolf posted a solvent recovery system I believe it is a sticky. If you're more concerned about reduction of fumes for safety than saving butane costs, you could evaporate your butane in a vacuum chamber and an aspirator as a vacuum source which should carry a lot of the butane in liquid form down the drain if you have very cold tapwater and would probably carry a fair amount down the drain as fumes with less cold tapwater just from the air current of the water. Or another idea a little less involved than gray wolf's intricate setup is to evaporate the butane with the fumes running through line which leads to two cylinders in a dry ice and acetone bath and valves on either side allowing you to trap the butane in the cylinders to reuse again later. This is similar to how most vacuum distillation setups protect their vacuum pumps from death by solvent, except you don't really want much if any vacuum in this case as it makes the butane harder to recover by lowering the boiling point. If you are interested in that idea but need help visualizing I will gladly draw up a diagram.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Could possibly have tasted unpurged butane?

For as long as the bho had its ethanol bath you would think that all of the butane was removed.

If not I'll pay stricter attention to prouder next run and document results with pics here

Thanks again

It is unlikely to be butane after evaporating away the ethanol, so may I ask how you extracted the original BHO?

If you have a blacklight, residual solvent will fluoresce light blue.

 

[Gray Wolf]

In your opinion what company makes the best closed system?

Either a Terpenator Mk I ($3800) or a Lil Terp ($480) passive system are easy to build yourself, or pay a handyman to do for you.

The fully automated Mk II adds about another $3500 in valve operators and controls, plus you need an air compressor to operate.

I have a third system coming up that is a Lil Terp using a 6" X 6" sanitary spool, with a clamp and plate for both tank bottoms and tops. The spool piece is eminently due from Glacier Tank.

I also have one prototype coming up, which is made like the Lil Terp, but operates on the same refrigerant recovery pump principles as the Mk I Terpenator. Final cost of the latter two to be determined.

Tamisium also makes a nice off the shelf passive Te 175 system for about $1700, which holds about two ounces of material, which is about what the Lil Terp holds with a 12" column.

The big question is how much volume do you need to process and how fast?

 

[PeopleWish]

So I made my second attempt. Same method/procedure. Same result.

Runny goo.

This is very frustrating.

How long does it take for the ethanol to evaporate from the bho once applied to boiling water? How do I know whether or not it was purged to the fullest extent.

 

[midwestHIGHS]

peoplewish- How much are purging per pyrex? How old is your material your extracting from and are you watching our temps with a reliable thermometer?

When only using heat to purge ethanol it needs to be purged in small amounts. I usually don't purge more than 2g at time, anymore and it has trouble hardening up.

 

[PeopleWish]

edit

 

[PeopleWish]

I am purging 15-20 grams per pyrex.

The material that I am using has just recently dried.

I dont not know acceptable temperature ranges for each part of the purging process, if you could provide these I would be very grateful.

So I cannot ethanol purge in larger amounts? How could this be achieved? If it cannot be accomplished what form of bho would be my best bet.

I want something hard that you can easily handle with your hands, but it still very potent with little to no residual solvent.

THank you!

 

[jump117]

Please inform how much resin goo is obtained on your dish after evaporation of ethanol and the size of dish.

 

[kmk420kali]

If you have a blacklight, residual solvent will fluoresce light blue.

I did not know this!! Just bought a UV light for scorpions...will be trying this one for sure!!

 

[PeopleWish]

15 grams of the goo

 

[mendo420]

Are you filtering the waxes out between step 7 and 8?

I have a TE-175 and cant get shatter.
I get a nice product in the end, around 10gram a run.
Made this last week.
right out of the tami, ready for hot water bath.

 

[midwestHIGHS]

15g is way to much per pyrex for your standard heat purge of ethanol, even in the largest sized pyrex. The best way to purge that amount at once is using deep vacuum. Otherwise batches 2gs and less are the way to go if you want your absolute fully purged of ethanol and rock hard stable.

Boiling points of the solvents you used. These should already be known before any solvent extracting has been started.
-lighter fluid-
Iso butane: 10.9F
Propane: -43.6F
n-butane: 34F
-everclear-
Ethanol:173F
Water: 212F

 

[jump117]

The situation acquired recognizable features, 15-20 grams per pyrex it is quite thick, not thin layer.
Consider a thin layer of 1-2 g / dish.

Inability to obtain a solid AA by evaporation from a thick layer has already been mentioned several times before.

But if the solution is evaporated in small portions ~0.5 g, ethanol can easily leave the thin layer of resin without the help of a vacuum.
In this case the end of the evaporation of ethanol can be determined visually, puddle of solution decreases, leaving a fixed bed of resin.

When we talk about the evaporation of a thin layer, it is about the thickness of the layer of resin, not the solution.

the most effective method is the evaporation of large quantities of multiple recurrence of small portions.

The truth is, the layer thickness is certainly a very important parameter of purging of AA.

No reason in trying to hammer 30 nails simultaneously, one by one is much faster and more convenient.

I want something hard that you can easily handle with your hands,

 

[Olifant]

15g is way to much per pyrex for your standard heat purge of ethanol, even in the largest sized pyrex. The best way to purge that amount at once is using deep vacuum. Otherwise batches 2gs and less are the way to go if you want your absolute fully purged of ethanol and rock hard stable.

Boiling points of the solvents you used. These should already be known before any solvent extracting has been started.
-lighter fluid-
Iso butane: 10.9F
Propane: -43.6F
n-butane: 34F
-everclear-
Ethanol:173F
Water: 212F

Being the anal retentive asshole I am, it should be stated that alcohol forms an azeotrope with 4.4% water 85.6% alcohol, and in reality even that extra .6% water that's in everclear above the azeotrope (assuming it hasn't absorbed more moisture from the atmosphere) will be carried out with the evaporating alcohol since you're evaporating off of a flat surface, so for this purpose everclear has one boiling point which is slightly lower than that of pure ethanol. I'm not sure about azeotropes with the lighter fluid compounds, but looking at the list it's doubtful the boiling points would be the same as dealing with the solvents individually and in high purity. Of equal interest imo are the vapor pressure curves and this would help to figure out how the mixture's boiling point is effected.

I'd imagine Judging by other normal alkanes which are liquid at room temperature, I'd guess normal butane also has quite a high vapor pressure above zero fahrenheit. This would also explain why freezers can explode when an open container of liquid butane is placed inside.

 

[midwestHIGHS]

Thanks for pointing that out, I should of stated that the azeotrope solution evaporates as one. But how would the azeotrope solution of ethanol and water have a boiling point thats lower than that of pure ethanol?
I also have to question the idea of using an aspirator as a vacuum source and sending explosive gas fumes down the drain and into the sewer? How are the gases flammability reduced once in the confined spaces of the sewer?

 

[Olifant]

The reason the boiling point of ethanol is reduced by the water azeotrope is because the vapor pressure is higher than can be accounted for by the molar ratio of the two compounds (raoult's law) which is because of the intramolecular forces between the two compounds. It works the other way as well, some azeotropes have boiling points higher than the compounds which compose them.

Obviously butane in the sewer isn't less explsive but it does carry it away from sources of ignition to a high content of moisture and a large volume of air for it to disperse to noncombustible concentrations at STP. Methane, the simplest of the alkanes occurs naturally in the sewer and because of it sewers are generally designed to be ignition free. Butane is quite a bit heavier than air so letting it float around in low pockets of even mildly populated areas as it disperses into the ground seems worse to me than in the sewer. Granted, neither is particularly something I'd want to see.

 

[midwestHIGHS]

Thanks for the educated explanation of why the boiling point of everclear is slightly lower than ethanols boiling point.

 

[PeopleWish]

Think we achieved some thing close to AA.

It is much darker, and it remains slightly viscous, despite spreading it out smoothly over pyrex and leaving it atop boiling water.

When scraped the substance solidified quickly and would shatter if dropped, But it was not non-stick. Is AA ever non-stick?

Perhaps since the AA goo was reheated so many times (and at too high of a temp) the AA appeared much darker.

The smoke was extremely powerful, and narcotic--it made you want to sit down. It make my friend pass out in ten minutes. It also irritated his throat quick abit; he did rip it rather hard. The flavor was true to the plant from which it came, if not more intensified. The high lasted 4~ hours from .2~.

The night before we smoked the AA goo, and it had a much more uppity high as opposed to the shatter, also much smoother.

Not quite sure what could be causing this but wont stop until I figure it out.

THanks everyone for your information commentary, much appreciated. Ill will obtain the AA to my desired consistence soon enough.

 

[Gray Wolf]

The reason the boiling point of ethanol is reduced by the water azeotrope is because the vapor pressure is higher than can be accounted for by the molar ratio of the two compounds (raoult's law) which is because of the intramolecular forces between the two compounds. It works the other way as well, some azeotropes have boiling points higher than the compounds which compose them.

Obviously butane in the sewer isn't less explsive but it does carry it away from sources of ignition to a high content of moisture and a large volume of air for it to disperse to noncombustible concentrations at STP. Methane, the simplest of the alkanes occurs naturally in the sewer and because of it sewers are generally designed to be ignition free. Butane is quite a bit heavier than air so letting it float around in low pockets of even mildly populated areas as it disperses into the ground seems worse to me than in the sewer. Granted, neither is particularly something I'd want to see.

As other considerations, a faucet vacuum aspirator doesn't have to be vented to the sewer.

You can also water your lawn, as the Butane would be non toxic at those levels and would evaporate away naturally.

A better solution, is put one on a pumped loop, that pumps in a circle from a holding tank. The open tank will also purge itself naturally.

 

[hash head]

Are you filtering the ethanol mixture after you freeze it? This is an important step in winterization.. Which you seem to have left out of your procedure.. Or at least out of your original post.