What's wrong with these plants?

[Dignan]

gascanastan and others are right- it's pH and it's not surprising given the low amount of lime you added.

Don't try to adjust the pH of your soil now. Like a few guys said, concentrate on AACT applications or, if you are unable to brew teas, then topdress with a good amount of worm castings or other quality compost. The soil microbes will work to balance the pH in the soil- promise. It will take a few days.

Let the soil do the work. And do take it easy on the kelp in your soil. It's a wonderful addition but can be overdone.

For now, I would also recommend a foliar of epsom salts and kelp, if you have Tad's soluble kelp, Maxicrop, etc.

Good luck! Be patient.

 

[Dkgrower]

U could check the pH & EC value from run off water, Rh off the room, temp in the rootzone, ect to be more sure that things are in check

If the bottom is dry and top is wet then watering is not good and problems start.

Stay cool and give em some good food with some molasse and get the watering in check

Idk much abouth those premixed soils but to me, it look more like plants that need some love and attention

 

[TheyCallMeJJay]

Your bro has done something he hasn't told you about. Look for empty bottles.....lol

 

[ClackamasCootz]

Lockout....
...topdress with EWC or compost.

Then remember this standard rule....
1 cup of dolomite lime per cubic foot of peat....(1 to 2 tablespoons per gallon)...NOT soil mix....for the PEAT MOSS...Or if you had built a complete organic soil the humic material from EWC or compost would take care of it.

Adding kelp to an incomplete organic soil mix will compound your problems....like even possibly putting the ph up around 10.0...yeah really.

I use this lime mix...for the % of peat moss in my soil on the initial mix....but after that and 3 years later on the same soil the only ph adjusting I need anymore comes from EWC or compost added on later re-amends.

The 3-way lime mix based off Steve Soloman's lime mix....used by a few around here.

1 part dolomite
2 parts oyster shell powder
1 part agricultural gypsum

..oh yeah,and don't trust bagged soil mixes....they are inconsistent. If I were to buy ANY peat based bagged soil mix I would automatically add an appropriate lime mix and a small % EWC or compost.

^^^^word

 

[Microbeman]

On one of the yellowest plants pour on the soil an EWC slurry. Mix it up so that it is like a thick soup and mix in 1 to 2% black strap molasses. If you notice improvement overnight then try it on some other plants. It is a jumpstartkickinthepants for N lock up. It works best with homemade vermicompost.

 

[Scrappy4]

On one of the yellowest plants pour on the soil an EWC slurry. Mix it up so that it is like a thick soup and mix in 1 to 2% black strap molasses. If you notice improvement overnight then try it on some other plants. It is a jumpstartkickinthepants for N lock up. It works best with homemade vermicompost.

That is my thought too MM, and just like other posters that recommended ewc, and teas, but the original ewc might be dead. Good compost and or ewc should have never let this happen, but biologicaly dead compost won't help. I would question the compost portion of the mix, or the "cook time" And for a fix get better compost.....scrappy

 

[RanchoDeluxe]

Lockout....
...topdress with EWC or compost.

Then remember this standard rule....
1 cup of dolomite lime per cubic foot of peat....(1 to 2 tablespoons per gallon)...NOT soil mix....for the PEAT MOSS...Or if you had built a complete organic soil the humic material from EWC or compost would take care of it.

Adding kelp to an incomplete organic soil mix will compound your problems....like even possibly putting the ph up around 10.0...yeah really.

I use this lime mix...for the % of peat moss in my soil on the initial mix....but after that and 3 years later on the same soil the only ph adjusting I need anymore comes from EWC or compost added on later re-amends.

The 3-way lime mix based off Steve Soloman's lime mix....used by a few around here.

1 part dolomite
2 parts oyster shell powder
1 part agricultural gypsum

..oh yeah,and don't trust bagged soil mixes....they are inconsistent. If I were to buy ANY peat based bagged soil mix I would automatically add an appropriate lime mix and a small % EWC or compost.

I would like to understand what is happening here.

The OP is using about 80 gallons or so of mix. Mostly Roots and some EWC. So if 30 gallons of that is peat his is right at 1tbs per gal.

It seems as though he has added the dolomite within the guidelines you've listed.

What specifically should he have done when originally mixing the soil?

I'm just looking to learn more. Not trying to be an ass.

 

[Gascanastan]

Bagged soil mixes are inconsistant...meaning that they most likely do not have a quality control feature at the the bagging/mixing facility. What 16 year old stoner controls the gypsum/lime hopper level in between constantly checking his facebook and ICmag accounts???? That is why when I buy ANY bagged peat based soil mix I always add lime and EWC/compost...and I never have issues.

If those plants are showing lockout that young then clearly there just isn't enough lime per % of peat and/or humic material from compost or EWC in the soil mix.

Dolomite only works when wet....and will never raise the ph over 9.0. (Oyster shell is immediately available for use by soil organisms and works wet or dry since it's magnesium isn't bonded with calcium on a molecular level) Perhaps there is a watering issue where the soil isn't being properly moistened to allow for bacterial/fungal colonies to establish themselves and the dolomite just isn't getting wet????

Also....if 1 tablespoon wasn't enough that's where the 2 tablespoons would come in....I always used 2 just in case...and it's difficult to over-lime with dolomite....(the ph never goes above 9.0)

 

[ClackamasCootz]

GC

1 tablespoon per gallon of soil is about the amount of crab meal that I use per 1 c.f. - Calcium Carbonate just like Oyster shell powder, Calcite Lime (aka agricultural lime), Limestone, etc.

Plus you get the Chitin benefit - 'win-win'

CC

 

[Gascanastan]

One of these days I'm going to mix up a batch of peat,EWC and just oyster shell as my 'liming' agent...that's it. Soon I will confront the liming amendment issue head on and try out some basic liming mixes using the available liming agents as compared to compost/EWC.

 

[Scrappy4]

One of these days I'm going to mix up a batch of peat,EWC and just oyster shell as my 'liming' agent...that's it. Soon I will confront the liming amendment issue head on and try out some basic liming mixes using the available liming agents as compared to compost/EWC.

Perhaps you could add your calcium to your compost before mixing your soil. I like diversity so I have oyster shell chunks and powder, gypsum, crab meal, neem meal and most of the botanical teas I feed with are also fairly high in calcium (and mag). But my compost has egg shells, guano, and plant matter, so I get plenty of cal.

And to your previous post, I agree the mixes could be erratic, but they could off either direction, in my experience too much lime is as bad as too little. If a mix says it has some sort of lime added, I don't add any. But I still add the crab shell and neem meal, and a little gypsum....scrappy