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Calling all coco pro's!

mitsu1

Lifetime Member
ICMag Donor
Easy SM. With what he has,instead of waiting till he can order the correct type of ferts. He could simply increase what he has on the most effected plants. The high K hasn't effected the plants yet because of the low ec. He should be much higher,that's why the P is showing up first,the least available.

Tyga just try it on the worst plants. Bum your ppm up. EC .1 is around 500 ppm depending on the type of ec meter. Way low for the stage your plants are in. Do order or pick up some coco friendly ferts.
The numbers on what you have are no good for coco. P's to low and the K is too high. Gen Hydro, Cana, CN17 and H&G are just a few that are good.
 

Tyga

Active member
Veteran
Easy SM. With what he has,instead of waiting till he can order the correct type of ferts. He could simply increase what he has on the most effected plants. The high K hasn't effected the plants yet because of the low ec. He should be much higher,that's why the P is showing up first,the least available.

Tyga just try it on the worst plants. Bum your ppm up. EC .1 is around 500 ppm depending on the type of ec meter. Way low for the stage your plants are in. Do order or pick up some coco friendly ferts.
The numbers on what you have are no good for coco. P's to low and the K is too high. Gen Hydro, Cana, CN17 and H&G are just a few that are good.


You mean EC 1.0? My TDS is a Hanna so it has a .5 conversion so my feed is @ 1.1 EC or 550PPM. But yes going to pick up Micro/bloom and run h3ad's 6/9 with Roots excel and 1g epsom for cal/mag if they start showing they want more. I hear ECSD can be a hog when it comes to cal-mag so i'm sure she will let me know when she wants more.
 

mitsu1

Lifetime Member
ICMag Donor
Yea typo,sorry.

Gen hydro flora is good. 6/9 is a good starting point. You can soak the coco with cal mag when you first wet the brick. With my water I use 3ml/gallon Cal Mag. This will buffer the coco. No need for the cal mag the rest of the grow.

For shits and grins,hit a couple of your worst plants with a higher dose of that 16-10-30,just to prove my point. You'll see the new growth will look much better. Then switch to the GH Flora series. Before the K starts messin with them.

I be back to see how you made out. Due update us....mitsu
 

Tyga

Active member
Veteran
Yea typo,sorry.

Gen hydro flora is good. 6/9 is a good starting point. You can soak the coco with cal mag when you first wet the brick. With my water I use 3ml/gallon Cal Mag. This will buffer the coco. No need for the cal mag the rest of the grow.

For shits and grins,hit a couple of your worst plants with a higher dose of that 16-10-30,just to prove my point. You'll see the new growth will look much better. Then switch to the GH Flora series. Before the K starts messin with them.

I be back to see how you made out. Due update us....mitsu[/QUOTE

Thanks man I def will... Got to many plants in the veg tent anyways so ill hit up the worst lookin ones with a higher dose. i know theyvare hungry because the younger plants gettinng hit with the same feed are all lush green. My keepers imma start off on the flora tommorow morning.
 

habeeb

follow your heart
ICMag Donor
Veteran
-Glove- Like to be sanitary, especially when dealing with PH UP/DOWN


got a great thing for you then.. use some nalgene dripper bottles, check them out online in google.. never a drop spilled or anything




wondering if you need to check into alkalinity in your water.. not pH of water, alkalinity.. check into that, might be causing high pH spikes in your water
 

Tyga

Active member
Veteran
-Glove- Like to be sanitary, especially when dealing with PH UP/DOWN


got a great thing for you then.. use some nalgene dripper bottles, check them out online in google.. never a drop spilled or anything




wondering if you need to check into alkalinity in your water.. not pH of water, alkalinity.. check into that, might be causing high pH spikes in your water

Ill peep into the drippers, I just use a little medicine syringe and use small amounts at a time mixing with the PH pen until I reach 5.8.
Don't know how to check alkinity of the water put I feed right after I adjust the Ph so I don't think that would be an issue? Unless im missing something here.
 
S

SeaMaiden

Easy SM. With what he has,instead of waiting till he can order the correct type of ferts. He could simply increase what he has on the most effected plants. The high K hasn't effected the plants yet because of the low ec. He should be much higher,that's why the P is showing up first,the least available.

Tyga just try it on the worst plants. Bum your ppm up. EC .1 is around 500 ppm depending on the type of ec meter. Way low for the stage your plants are in. Do order or pick up some coco friendly ferts.
The numbers on what you have are no good for coco. P's to low and the K is too high. Gen Hydro, Cana, CN17 and H&G are just a few that are good.

I agree with you, though I really, really hate those super-high NPK types of fertilizers, they're tricky for me to work with.

Now I'm going to suggest the cheapest, freest way a person can change some of those ratios--your own urine. Dilution ratios start at around 5:1 water:urine, I recommend starting around 10:1 to prevent burning. It should make an easily measurable change in your EC, I'm pretty certain most of what's in it is electrically conductive.

I still think the high K can possibly cause uptake problems with Mg, and through that may lock out P, though. And if the Mg is locked out in coir, what happens with Ca?
You mean EC 1.0? My TDS is a Hanna so it has a .5 conversion so my feed is @ 1.1 EC or 550PPM. But yes going to pick up Micro/bloom and run h3ad's 6/9 with Roots excel and 1g epsom for cal/mag if they start showing they want more. I hear ECSD can be a hog when it comes to cal-mag so i'm sure she will let me know when she wants more.
The chemical expression for Epsom salt is MgSO4. There is not a speck of Ca in it.

I'll advise having a separate Ca product on hand. I have Calplex (3% Ca, no N), but prefer BioLink 6% Ca. It can be given via foliar feedings as well as mixed in with your nutrients.

Ca- looks quite different, and must be handled differently than a Mg-. Mg- is easily corrected with MgSO4, Ca should be offered from the get-go as it's an immobile element. Both can be offered with good uptake via foliar applications. Use MgSO4 at the rate of 1/4t/gal, whether root or foliar feed.
Ill peep into the drippers, I just use a little medicine syringe and use small amounts at a time mixing with the PH pen until I reach 5.8.
Don't know how to check alkinity of the water put I feed right after I adjust the Ph so I don't think that would be an issue? Unless im missing something here.
Habeeb is talking about alkalinity in terms of resistance to pH shift. Two forms of alkalinity, general and carbonate. An aquarium test kit will easily tell you where it's at and what type of alkalinity you're dealing with. I use the Tetra Laborette, runs anywhere from $14-$25.

If your water is very alkaline, especially in carbonate hardness (CaCO3, and MgCO3 are the carbonate forms most often found in muni water supplies) then it's going to take a qualified metric SHIT TON of pH adjuster to drive it down and, this is the key, KEEP IT DOWN. It's the carbonate molecules that are undoing all this work, and that's why the guy said earlier to go with RO and stick with RO. Muni supplies often change with the weather, and even many shallow wells experience significant changes in quality, alkalinity, etc.
 
E

ekomsi

Im not a coco pro but been using it for 7weeks now,I have also been using veg+bloom for 7 weeks now the only other thing I use is drip clean and ph down, I had the same exact stuff going on durring early veg. Bump up your ec to 1.6-1.7 when I did that my plants greened up very quickly. It seems that a low ec with this nutrient causes deff in coco.

I would add 5.5g-6g of vegbloom per gallon, i had problems when using under 4g per gallon

I should I add I use city tap water, and I dont even decholorinate any more whats the point? I see no difference.......
 

Tyga

Active member
Veteran
Cool, Ill pick one of those up tommorow and test it out. It comes 140ppm out the tap and easily PH adjusted. I also run blumats and have a bluelab guardian monitor for the teservoir and PH dosen't drift more than a few points in a week.
I had an RO system but a buddy of mine ended up breaking it while it was in storage and never came around to invest in another one since this spot has pretty soft water. But I do understand its better because you can control everything going in and easier to narrow down/correct problems when they come up.
 

Tyga

Active member
Veteran
Im not a coco pro but been using it for 7weeks now,I have also been using veg+bloom for 7 weeks now the only other thing I use is drip clean and ph down, I had the same exact stuff going on durring early veg. Bump up your ec to 1.6-1.7 when I did that my plants greened up very quickly. It seems that a low ec with this nutrient causes deff in coco.

I would add 5.5g-6g of vegbloom per gallon, i had problems when using under 4g per gallon

I should I add I use city tap water, and I dont even decholorinate any more whats the point? I see no difference.......

Thanks man, what conversion does your meter have? .5? I'm going to test the the v+b at higher doseage on a couple plants and switch the rest over to 6/9... If the v+b plants respond well I might run v+b on half and the other half 6/9 and see what formula works outthe best for me. I use drip clean also but only on the girls hooked up to the blumats. The handwatered plants are only getting there base nutes+Roots excel.
 

watts

ohms
Veteran
Thanks man just checked it out always new about it and heard of the 6/9 recipe but never really dug to deep into it. So 6/9 the whole grow and that's it? Or do you recommend any additives like silca,bloom booster, etc.
And yeah you caught me! They were started off in solo cups with happy frog and once they showed there first signs of being hungry I tossed em in the 1gal. square pots with coco but I will def take a look into the rapid rapid rooters, I got a few buddy's who swear by em' but never took a whack at them.
As far as coco goes I've already fucked with botanicare bricks and I have a feeling they brought some gnats into the garden, plus its a HUGE pain in the ass to soak the bricks and then break them apart by hand and then drain the excess water I personally would rather go with a pre-bagged coco and the only kind my local shop carries is Roots Organic right now...


Yeah 6/9 in veg and flower.. then I usually stop feeding nutrients 10-14 days before harvest. You can use additives if you like but you don't really need anything too fancy. A bit of silica is ok in small does if you really want to use it but don't use it early in veg.. wait till mid veg at least. I've used the Botanicare Silica Blast with good results at around 2ml i believe it was. There's no need to add bloom boosters in my opinion. You can increase the Flora Bloom to 12ml during weeks 3 and 5 of flower if you want. Will save you money from having to buy bloom boosters. Floralicious Plus is also a good additive @ 1ml per gallon if you want to add that. You have to keep a reservoir aerated if you use that though, if not hand watering. Although I haven't tried Roots Excelurator, I've heard great things on it. Just remember nothing is REQUIRED, except the 6/9 Micro/Bloom. So don't sweat it if you can't or don't have any fancy additives. Also don't forget to always mix the micro in the water before the bloom.

Also, gnats are naturally attracted to coco coir because it stays moist all the time. The bricks are better, in my opinion, because they are dry when you buy them, so insects can't live in it. The pre-bagged is ready to go but it's moist and bugs can live in it if there are small holes in the bags at the store/warehouse. The Botanicare bricks are actually good. You don't have to flush them. Just hydrate the brick to expand it. So it's up to you to weigh the pros and cons and what you want. I also recommend those yellow sticky traps to hang in your room. The adult gnats and other insects are attracted to the yellow and will help keep your gnat population under control much easier.
 

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