Plant not eating, ph dropping, Aquafarm

[ukganjafarmer]

The plant is lsd which is supposed to be a 9-10 week strain but im do to chop on the 14th which will be 8 weeks.

I havent really been able to check the roots properly because the plant weighs a ton but i looked and they look pretty clean i coulnt see any slime.

Even if i didnt have root rot the h202 wouldnt hurt would it, i no some people use all the time

 

[ukganjafarmer]

also 2ml of 35% per litre sounds alot, its usually watered down to 3% before use isnt it?

 

[jm420]

At this point I guess it wont hurt ,But its not gonna solve your problem ,Shes been eating herself for a while ,as wll as a N def,as well as what looks like cal mag issues and maybe a P issue as well.Start flushing and chop enjoy your bounty,.Its almost pointless to do anything else at this time ,By the time she recovers you will be ready to chop then you'll just have harsh shitty burning buds from all the nutes.IMO flush for 10 days if shell go that long get a clone started and chaulk it up to experiance .BTW most peeps wouldnt get that far for a firstimer great job
Peace

 

[DrFever]

IMO flush around 3 times every second day and slowly start adding food again obiously she is locked out from not maintaining proper ph it must be fluctuating lots this might also help you with res temps if you have any
i am sorry medicalm but yellowing is not normal its becoming Fact keeping plants green till chop day increases over all yield
Yellowing is a symptom of a def in all stages of growth

 

[jm420]

Op'S choping in 9 days why do anything but flush?
IMO yellowing = N def
rust spots =cal mag def
Its tough to tell but some leaves look to be showing a P def.So 2out of 3 aint bad.Just kidding NPKis what Iam referring to.I think the tap water is the OP's problem .with a .6 ec it will be impossible to keep your nutes (NPK) at the right levelswiyhout running to hot of a res.This is a definately a case on when an RO system or another water source is needed for hydro.
Check out the first 3 def.in stiches guide to sick plants.they look just like the op's

 

[medicalmj]

IMO flush around 3 times every second day and slowly start adding food again obiously she is locked out from not maintaining proper ph it must be fluctuating lots this might also help you with res temps if you have any
i am sorry medicalm but yellowing is not normal its becoming Fact keeping plants green till chop day increases over all yield
Yellowing is a symptom of a def in all stages of growth

I tend to agree w you, but it's still a debate for some. So let me re-state:

Normal for lower large sun leaves, not what I want to see in upper canopy by any means. I only get large lower leaves that are shaded turning yellow (and no purps). I seen one pic that didn't look to bad but the others were definitly deficient, and if PH is low, well only Fe, Mn, B, Cu, Zn are readily available and below PH 5 all but Fe is locked out. So I agree w you about the lock out w PH being culprit.

Interestingly I have seen h202 stabalize PHwhen mine crashes. I suspected anerobic enviroment and/or anerobic microbes(bad) as the cause. When it last happened I was growng in 5 gal dwc with a root ball so big it had to be pryed out, going anerobic made intuitive sense. The h202 will both provide O and kill microbes.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but adding h202 won't affect taste of buds, right? It's just water with an extra O molecule. Or, 2 H atoms(actually - diatomic molecules with the formula H2 )and 2 O molecules with the additional O molecule being unstable.

 

[DrFever]

Op'S choping in 9 days why do anything but flush?
IMO yellowing = N def
rust spots =cal mag def
Its tough to tell but some leaves look to be showing a P def.So 2out of 3 aint bad.Just kidding NPKis what Iam referring to.I think the tap water is the OP's problem .with a .6 ec it will be impossible to keep your nutes (NPK) at the right levelswiyhout running to hot of a res.This is a definately a case on when an RO system or another water source is needed for hydro.
Check out the first 3 def.in stiches guide to sick plants.they look just like the op's

Flushing in my books is a myth specially last 2 weeks of flowering that is the most crucial time of all of grow. PACK ON THE WEIGHT yes lowering ppm but not plain out straight flushing
Remember what each value of NPK does to a plant it helps in osmosis ( water uptake ) photosynthesis etc,
to think yea i am going to flush my plant to rid it of its NPK ????
plants break down nutrients and make them into sugars and starches which plants bank and use accordingly
Flushing is used for a last resort from either nutrient toxicity, or massive salt build up
obviously the op's having osmosis issues plants are not drinking with 90 percent of the plant being water osmosis has bin effected by either to much mag blocking out N which is plants osmosis most crucial element Nitrogen

So i think the best remedy is flush regularly for 48 hrs or so then introduce nutrients @ a level of 450 -600 till chop day an thank me later lol
i think most good growers are starting to lean this way starting like week 7 lowering there ppm weekly till final week is 400 - 600 then chop ,
thats what i do and have done for many years and get amazing results 5 plant 4.75 pound dry harvests here is a bud on 5 gallon / 20 liter bucket no flushing intended cheers

 

[jm420]

To flush or not to flush thats the ? Theres a whole thread here somewhere on that topic.I think thats getting off topic but I do Agree the last 2 weeks are crucial,But in the OP's case hes chopping 2 weeks early any
how and technically dosnt really know how early it is without checking trics .
I'm gonna disagree on the ec though every plants diffrent and once dialed in and knowing the strain is gonna dictate the feeding schedule. (being able to read your plants).Alot of growers have been cutting nutes back at the end of flower forever, shit basically every nute companies chart shows that.I dont think that classifies someone as a good grower,and I wouldnt consider a bad grower someone that can feed the maximum threw flower with no ill effects.What works for me may not work for you .I to have been growing dwc for years and have come close to the revered gram a watt.
If he really wants to thank you he should go the duration of said 10 weeks .This may give him time to flush a couple days get things straightend out and pack on a little extra weight.

 

[headband 707]

imvho your ph is off or your giving your plant too much ,, your could try to go to the other end of the scale on ph and see if you can unlock your iron.. headband707

 

[medicalmj]

impressive bud drfever. But the leaves are yellow. Do you think you had a def? could it have been bigger if leaves were bit more green?

Also, glad you brought up the flush issue. I never flush and never had anyone say they tasted anythjing other than the flavor expected. Thought I was only one..

Oh yeah, how many watts and sq/ft for the near 1lb per?

 

[DrFever]

yo medi check out my signature did 5 plant 2000 watts almost made 5 pounds also yes i was getting a salt build up but 72 hrs of darkness made the yellowing occur fast prior to chop

 

[thinkin]

Whenever my ph dropped unexpectedly, (not coinciding with EC moving dramatically)
always was caused by a light leak hitting the rez.

Every night, PH would always drop to 5.0 and lock out the nutes from the plants.
Once I made a cover for the rez and adjusted ph up. PH stabilized and plants recovered.

No h202/bleach/rez change needed.

 

[medicalmj]

yo medi check out my signature did 5 plant 2000 watts almost made 5 pounds also yes i was getting a salt build up but 72 hrs of darkness made the yellowing occur fast prior to chop

Nice! I built my first scrog back in 1993 and was lucky enough to have a strain that totally rocked w that method. I hung it up for over a decade and now doing medical. But I'll tell ya, I still haven't found a strain that responds as good as that one. I had 6' euro trays. 2 x 3' rockwool slabs w 4" cubes on top. They were top fed w drip emmiters from a 25g res. I never a root issue, never worried about res temps, and didn't even areate the res. But only used Euro A&B (all salt based nutes.) In the last couple years of gettin back in I've had every pest and problem known to the ganga world WTF! Partly my fault. Looking for better starins brings pests. Assumed the explosion of new products were good for plants, not detrimental.

Thanks for the info DrFever I'll be examing your system closely as that's where I need to be. I got 2 k swtchable for flwr and 2 400w for veg. I got a light mover (circa 1993) but she having some issues as of late. And enough parts, pieces, and pumps(air and water) on hand to build just about any system. I even have those 6' trays up in the rafters.

So, I have 6 baby girls that need to be placed ASAP. They're in my "holding" system and well rooted. I have til the end of the day to decide...