Secret Ingredient?!?

[EclipseFour20]

IMO...things that everyone else are using (like kelp, alfalfa, etc) is hardly a "secret". BTW, did you know that Kelp Meal takes months to breakdown whereas Liquid Kelp/Seaweed Extract takes days? And...for you pollution freaks, kelp meal will always have higher traces of MERCURY than liquid kelp...simple fact.

So...besides incorporating minerals from the sea (Sea90) and feeding my microherd all the goodness of mother's milk (Raw Milk), I also add "calcinated clay" (sodium bentonite variety) to my soil mix at the rate of 12% volume.

Calcinated Clay (aka clay kitty litter) provides me 3 things in one simple product: extra moisture retention in the soil (less watering), increased Cation Exchange Capacity (clay is negatively charged), increased phosphate efficiency (like 50% increase--meaning 1/2 the ferts are required).

Beat that!

Cheers!

 

[ClackamasCootz]

Kelp meal and powdered seaweed extract are not the same thing. Not even close. The manufacturers do not make this claim - in fact they are very specific on the differences. Why retailers of these materials continue to push this myth is easily explained by looking at the price per lb. of kelp meal vs. these powered seaweed products.

And on your 'Mercury' claims here are the actual filings from Acadian Seaplants, LTD on their ASL Soluble Seaweed Extract Powder 1-1-17 filed with the Washington State Department of Agriculture

Mercury <1.000 ppm

Those are the manufacturer's numbers

Here is the filing for the Acadian Seaplants Kelp Meal 1-.15-2

Mercury - <0.0500

What else ya got?

CC

 

[Seandawg]

Again,
when did this become a challenge?

Calcinated Clay (aka clay kitty litter) provides me 3 things in one simple product: extra moisture retention in the soil (less watering), increased Cation Exchange Capacity (clay is negatively charged), increased phosphate efficiency (like 50% increase--meaning 1/2 the ferts are required).

This is just completely unnecessary

Beat that!

 

[EclipseFour20]

Liquid Seaweed Extract....http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilizers/FertDB/prodinfo.aspx?pname=3288
Dry Kelp Meal....http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilizers/FertDB/prodinfo.aspx?pname=3293

More heavy metals in the meal variety, period. Any more questions?

 

[ClackamasCootz]

LMAO - no you've explained your 'soil science' to a point that anyone could understand.

 

[canabisflower]

I've been using the kelp powder and granulated kelp from my local heath food store. While I'm sure it wouldn't be mercury laden, can anyone tell me if its the right kelp for my outdoor plants? I get my organic molasses at the same place. Both in bulk and very inexpensive

 

[ClackamasCootz]

Speaking of Mercury and this is from YOUR link from the University of Georgia on this magical SEA-90

Mercury (Hg) - 0.101 ppm
Aresenic (As) - 1.05 ppm
Chloride (Cl) - 20,145 ppm
Sodium (Na) - 11,245 ppm

 

[EclipseFour20]

Sean...please educate me. Why do you think increasing the moisture, CEC and phosphate efficiencies not important? I have read so much science to indicate otherwise--not to mention my personal observations.

Clack...I think I volunteered a few good secret ingredients (topic of this thread...right?). Should you desire a discussion on soil science, rather than hijack this thread--please start a "soil science" thread and lets debate! I am sure we can both learn from each other (two heads are better than one concept).

Just suggesting, in a competitive environment--it might pay to be more "unconventional" and less "traditional". It has been my personal experience that potent herb with taste, aromas and flavors will always be in demand in a tight/competitive market; especially when it is pleasantly distinguishable from all the "rest".

So...logic says, if you grow like everyone else--then the taste, aroma and flavors of your flowers will be indistinguishable from everyone else...all other things equal.

 

[EclipseFour20]

I've been using the kelp powder and granulated kelp from my local heath food store. While I'm sure it wouldn't be mercury laden, can anyone tell me if its the right kelp for my outdoor plants? I get my organic molasses at the same place. Both in bulk and very inexpensive

Assuming you believe in the "feed the soil" religion, then adding kelp to the soil will have GREAT long term effects. It takes 3-4 months before kelp breaks down...then maybe more time before the plant can uptake the elements it needs. Some people add kelp at every planting/seeding...thereby providing a constant supply of kelp nutrients.

Cheers!

BTW...not a pollution freak when it comes to mercury, we probably have the greatest exposure when cleaning up the breakage from a CFL lamp that broke on the floor.

 

[Seandawg]

Sean...please educate me. Why do you think increasing the moisture, CEC and phosphate efficiencies not important? I have read so much science to indicate otherwise--not to mention my personal observations.

Whoa buddy dont be putting words into my mouth.
I never said anything about proper moisture. I use a natural automated watering system. My soil moisture is perfect, constant, always!!!
My CEC's are in prime levels and my compost will ensure that (and yes i have loads of native seaweed in there too)! phosphate efficiency is not even a concern to me (at all). I know that my soil is balanced and my diversity of microbiology will create whatever transactions in the rizosphere as necessary.

I have no control over what goes on in my soil. Its not my job to give my plants nutrients. Thats for the microbes to decide. i provide the organic matter they handle the rest.

Again, dont ever put words in my mouth, because i never said that!

 

[Oregonism]

My only disagreement is how you increase CAC after you have watered? Clay and water are attracted to each other because of the charge, this is often why plants don't grow in clay, not because the soil isn't porous, but the because the water is locked out. So after watering periods, I could see where CAC would be severely lowered, it is never constantly static or rising. + the fact of some many other factors that influence CAC.......pH, microbi, humus content, etc.

But I am intrigued about the other effects of DE, such as phosporous uptake. I use DE [Red Lake] and have been pleasantly surprised by the water efficiency. Can you actually explain the concept vs. " I read about it, it's true".

 

[Zdub7k]

I use a monster tea with about 15 different things in it...off the top of my head...EWC, compost, guano, humus and manure from HD, alaska humus, fish bone meal, blood meal, alfalfa meal, oat meal, kelp meal, tea inooculant, azos, humic acids, fish emulsion, molasses....you get the idea..diversity is key to a good living rhizosphere. I also like to foliar feed with triacontanol. other than that I have my girls in a super soil with alot of the same ingredients that are in my tea ....lots of fresh clean Michigan air and plenty of sunshine...seems to work for me

 

[canabisflower]

I put it in tea I mix with molasses and bat guano, wouldn't that speed up the process? I mix a fertilizer into the soil when I 1st transplant outdoors called Garden Valley all purpose, its organic dried alfalfa,fish and seaweed. I've been reading so much on this thread about good vs. ineffective kelp its got me wondering about my assumption that I've been using the right kelp. Thanks for the quick reply
Peace

 

[Seandawg]

I put it in tea I mix with molasses and bat guano, wouldn't that speed up the process? I mix a fertilizer into the soil when I 1st transplant outdoors called Garden Valley all purpose, its organic dried alfalfa,fish and seaweed. I've been reading so much on this thread about good vs. ineffective kelp its got me wondering about my assumption that I've been using the right kelp. Thanks for the quick reply
Peace

I use a lot of native seaweed that i forage right outside of my house. It works fantastic in my opinion! Visual growth in only one or two foliar applications.

My point is, sometimes the source is secondary to actually having an algal source in the first place. Basically any kelp is better no kelp!

Peace!

 

[h.h.]

I use a lot of native seaweed that i forage right outside of my house. It works fantastic in my opinion! Visual growth in only one or two foliar applications.

My point is, sometimes the source is secondary to actually having an algal source in the first place. Basically any kelp is better no kelp!

Peace!

Plants do grow.
While I certainly would be sourcing kelp if I lived on the coast, it's not a necessity and really adds nothing to a well balanced soil that isn't already there. Cykokinin which might effect growth is in the growing tips of plants. Fast growing trees are a source.
Used as a foliar, you may be protecting your leaf and giving it a nice shine, but from all I've read and seen, it's not absorbed by the plant. As stated it does take several months to break down as well, unless you have a secret there. I've considered freezing and microwaving though I figure if it was that easy, others would be doing it.

 

[Neo 420]

I use a monster tea with about 15 different things in it...off the top of my head...EWC, compost, guano, humus and manure from HD, alaska humus, fish bone meal, blood meal, alfalfa meal, oat meal, kelp meal, tea inooculant, azos, humic acids, fish emulsion, molasses....you get the idea..diversity is key to a good living rhizosphere. I also like to foliar feed with triacontanol. other than that I have my girls in a super soil with alot of the same ingredients that are in my tea ....lots of fresh clean Michigan air and plenty of sunshine...seems to work for me

Bone meal? What benefit do you obtain from that in your tea?

 

[Neo 420]

Plants do grow.
While I certainly would be sourcing kelp if I lived on the coast, it's not a necessity and really adds nothing to a well balanced soil that isn't already there. Cykokinin which might effect growth is in the growing tips of plants. Fast growing trees are a source.
Used as a foliar, you may be protecting your leaf and giving it a nice shine, but from all I've read and seen, it's not absorbed by the plant. As stated it does take several months to break down as well, unless you have a secret there. I've considered freezing and microwaving though I figure if it was that easy, others would be doing it.

I thought kelp also helped with disease suppression and insects as well as other good properties (secondary metabolites). Is that wrong?

 

[Toes.]

Back to aloe... are the amounts of Iron and Magnesium too trace to have an effect on my plant's greenness?

 

[canabisflower]

SeanDawg.......I live on the beach also; how do you prepare your seaweed for foliar spraying, other than washing off all the salt of couse? I live on the other side of the Pacific....the cold side! I've thought about this but haven't been gutsy enough to try it yet. Do you hang to dry then grind it up? I've thought the long brown tubliar seaweed would be best. Thankyou so much in advance _
peace

 

[EclipseFour20]

Whoa buddy dont be putting words into my mouth.
I never said anything about proper moisture. I use a natural automated watering system. My soil moisture is perfect, constant, always!!!
My CEC's are in prime levels and my compost will ensure that (and yes i have loads of native seaweed in there too)! phosphate efficiency is not even a concern to me (at all). I know that my soil is balanced and my diversity of microbiology will create whatever transactions in the rizosphere as necessary.

I have no control over what goes on in my soil. Its not my job to give my plants nutrients. Thats for the microbes to decide. i provide the organic matter they handle the rest.

Again, dont ever put words in my mouth, because i never said that!

Sorry...when you said these words regarding my routine...."This is just completely unnecessary"....I just assumed that you believed my objectives were "not important".

I believe there are soo many paths to the same destination (not one single path is better than another)...just variations of perfection!

BTW--I have never seen your soil nor smoked your efforts...so to suggest my comments to be direct criticism of your soil is kinda faulty.