Cooling 4000w (intake outtake with aircooled shades)

[RubeGoldberg]

Currently building my room with intake and outtake.

I have an 8inch ostberg blower rated at 630cfm.

I would like to ideally have it pulling air through a can50 or similar charcoal filter, through the cooltubes and out the window.

Intake being ambient intake from the room temperature building.

Any design flaws here? Budget isn't an issue, but I'd like to avoid a sealed room

 

[250wscrogger]

I would just use the 8'' for an intake and get a 12'' max/12''x39'' phresh filter for exhaust....good non air cooled hoods with no glass or ducting. simple and you get more usable light.

If you have air-cooled reflectors could also do the 8'' fan pulling through a scrubber then and pushing air through the reflectors and out the window.

 

[RubeGoldberg]

I already have the aircooled shades (glass tube type). What I'm wondering is if the 8 inch blower is going to be powerful enough to cool the room when sucked through the scrubber, the 4 shades and out the window.

 

[puff adder]

I have a room running with four 1K lights. Scrubber hanging, 8" duct "Y" to two 6" ducts, going across two rows of two lights, "Y" back into 8" ducting and out the window.

This creates a big negative that passively pulls air into the room, the kicker though is I pull cold air in from under the house. One 8" fan does the job perfectly.

If you are only using room temp air though, not sure. I'd use one 8" for the lights, and maybe another 8" or 6" pushing air in through the intake maybe.

Any way you can duct cold air from under the house? I have 3 rooms set up like this and it works great. On 100 degree days my rooms run at 75.

If you don't have a cold air source, then the ticket is going to be LOTS of air moving in and out.

 

[Hydrolized]

good non air cooled hoods with no glass or ducting. simple and you get more usable light.

This is simply not true. Looking at the inverse square law and thermal dynamics...if you don't air cool your lights you need to keep them quite a bit farther away from the canopy than with air cooled...therefore, using the inverse square law, you are losing a lot more light at the canopy than the claimed "10%" through the glass of an air cooled setup. Test it for yourself, I have.

To OP, I have a 840cfm fan cooling 3000w and in the summer the last light in the chain of 3 gets pretty hot...if I was you I would cool two strings of two, or use a bigger fan and adapt it down to the 8" size for the reflectors.

 

[farmari]

When using glass, you're losing light. When raising the reflector, you're spreading the light out more.

 

[250wscrogger]

I actually cool 7kw bare bulb with just intake/exhaust, no air-cooled hoods or A/C...all I can say is that you want to exchange the room air 2x per minute.

A 630cfm 8'' fan is nowhere near enough to cool 4kw intake/exhaust....It would be perfect for air cooling the lights but that alone will not be enough....I can guarantee this......

Right now I use that same fan for an active intake (ambient basement air) on my 6k flower.......... plus 2700cfm out (probably reduced to around 2100cfm by scrubbers)

The more intake/exhaust you have, the less the room will heat up above ambient intake or fall below ambient c02 levels

 

[Floridian]

non cooled hoods

non cooled hoods

Hydrolize that would be true if you had to keep lights far away,but I dont.I use 3 1K vertizontals with a 12500 BTU window AC and using a lazer thermometer I'm usually around 80 at the canopy when the lamps are 12 inches above.I use co2 also I can get the temkps lower than 80.I think theres a lot of overkill in growin

 

[RubeGoldberg]

So back to my original question, 8 inch blower pulling through a carbon scrubber, through 4 aircooled 1000w bulbs in insulated ducting. Passive intake will be room temperature house air.


Yes or No?

 

[250wscrogger]

It has already been answered....NO

The 8'' fan alone will be insufficient for cooling 4kw in any configuration

 

[Shafto]

Summer time right now, currently cooling 12,200W with 1400CFM (estimated actual flow, not fan rating) in 11x17 room, passive intake, bare bulbs.

The 10K BTU window A/C kicks on if the temps outside go over 23-24C, which doesn't happen often at night.

So can it be done? Absolutely. Probably not with air cooled hoods though, you'll need another fan if you go that route, to dedicate to the hoods, blow outside air through the hoods and back outside, and then dedicate the other fan to the filter. After you duct all those hoods up you won't be flowing much any more if you make that your exhaust as well.

Fan from filter straight outside as directly as possible, and tons of airflow in the room with bare bulbs (vert or reflector). Hang a small fan blowing on each bare bulb. No lumen loss from glass, less heat from bulb, plants can still get close, and more total airflow through the room because no restriction from all the ducting and hoods. This is what I have found most effective for cooling a room.

Remember though if you do end up trying the filter and lights all in series, to put the fan right after the filter, and blow air through the ducting and lights. This helps two ways, for one, you won't suck stinky air in through air leaks in the reflector hoods, which there are always a few of. And secondly, blowing air inflates the flexible ducting, making it flow better than sucking through it, which collapses it slightly, and makes it more restrictive.

 

[RubeGoldberg]

It has already been answered....NO

The 8'' fan alone will be insufficient for cooling 4kw in any configuration

your first reply seemed like you said otherwise.


I think I'll end up trying it out, maybe 2 rooms of 2000w though and buy xtra blowers/scrubbers

 

[growshopfrank]

So back to my original question, 8 inch blower pulling through a carbon scrubber, through 4 aircooled 1000w bulbs in insulated ducting. Passive intake will be room temperature house air.


Yes or No?

how many feet of duct?
what configuration for the reflectors?
how many bends?
6" or 8" tubes?

all this info makes a huge difference

one small heads up run the filter as a scrubber for a day or two to blow out any loose dust before running it with the tubes or your tubes will get dark fast

 

[RubeGoldberg]

how many feet of duct?
what configuration for the reflectors?
how many bends?
6" or 8" tubes?

all this info makes a huge difference

one small heads up run the filter as a scrubber for a day or two to blow out any loose dust before running it with the tubes or your tubes will get dark fast

2 x 45 degree bends, plus the window has a box around it.

I drew a shitty picture, probably a total of 20 feet of ducting involved (10x10 room). The ducting and cooltubes (an melonheads) are gonna be 8inch

 

[DHF]

Air exchange twice per minute is a valid and time tested system to keep room ambient temps in decent parameters runnin bare bulbs......so....

With cooltubes and or air-cooled reflectors , thermodynamics takes over with heatgain inherent in the reflectors as well as the light lost above said reflectors from dark spots along with the flex duct unless reflectix is on the ceilings , and it helps ....but won`t overcome the lumeloss compared to runnin bare bulbs hung vertically.........

250 laid it out for yas , and as you said....You`ll follow your own path and find out down the road ....It was also stated above that as I did for many yrs cool air from under the crawl spaces of my locations werepulled in by active intakes into my lung areas that got pumped into and sucked out of my fliprooms ftw...however....

I did have a/c`s and dehuey`s inside the grow areas for insurance in deep summer , but as a rule 10 months a yr active intakes and exhaust scrubber combo`s handled my shit in Hell.........

With 40 watts per sq ft when yas need 50 , environment dialed with 70% RH till end of stretch , and as low below 50% as possible till end of cycle with air exchange twice per minute 24/7 will make yas happy.....guaranteed....

Good luck....DHF.........