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How to keep roots healthy in DWC?

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
So I've been battling this problem of roots looking awesome for a couple weeks or so in my recirc DWC and then the brown mushy sets in. Lately I have been doing a 1/2 oz per gallon H2O2 soak every 2 weeks to keep it at bay but it keeps coming back. I have a chiller and a big air pump. I used to use Root Oreganism and Humbolt Honey but starting to think it is the cause. Stopped using and since switched to Roots Excelurator with much better root development and much less brown mushy roots. Could be residual from last H2O2 drench at which time I pulled all (or most)mushy roots off.

Any advise on keeping rot at bay? Will bleach kill the Pythium in the system, if that's what is causing the rot? Is running H2O2 the only answer? What's better to run Roots Excel or H2O2 for keeping roots healthy?
 
Dude, im actually right there as of this moment with you...

I recently got a chiller temps down to 65 all the time now hoping it will help... I always got new growth but some of the old stuff dies off... I got great DO...

I used some roots excel and it got worse, I did a heavy dose of h2o2.. looks better then after rez change I used roots excel again and it looked like it was getting worse...

Should be nice to get some light :)
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
KryptKeepa - I also had fungus gnats a while back, which are a known vector for rot. Perpetual grows make this so much harder to eliminate. But the gnats are gone now and maybe I'm at the end of the rot cycle as well.

Do you have fungus gnats? Just one can lay 250 eggs! Not only do they casue rot but they eat roots leaving them brown and ready to rot no matter what the temp or DO. I am hoping I'm getting close to end of this. Oddly, I thought RE was what caused a beautiful comeback after the H2O2 drench. I might just run H2O2 in the res til the end. 1/2 per gal of 35% food grade and top with 1/8 gal per day. Gets spendy but it may the only way to win the battle.
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
I cut up a yellow sticky card and lay them flat on the top of the media next to the stalk. If you catch just one you got lots more...
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
Also, I'm sure you'd notice fliers by now if they were the cause.

I am heading down to do another H2O2 drench. I'll update the results for you in 1-2 weeks to let you know if the browns coming back. It's a bummer to not have the massive white rootball like before.
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
I am done with the bennies and sugars as the research doesn't support its use. My connect in the commercial nursery gave me a chart for H2O2 rates, which are as follows:

Curative - 1.25 oz/gal 35% H2O2
Maintenance - .25 oz/gal 35% H2O2

I've only went up to 1/2 oz/gal. Going to test one plant at the 1.25 oz/gal and see if she lives. Maybe that's what's needed to kill the Pythium or whatever pathogen is causing rot.
 

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
When I went from soil to hydro I tried a DWC drip system- PROBLEMS. I got rid of the drip, but still had root problems. Cleaning and replacing all the nutes was a RPA and I had a drain valve plus tote was in a shower with drain.

To me the best solution is to get the nutes out of the root area. Instead of dwc try F & D. I have a journal here with lots of KISS ideas with results from my last grow
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
In the long run... I've found much better results in DWC when sticking to plain nutes.

No boosters (other than extra GH bloom at times), no organic or sugar additives or anything else with 'organic' stuff in it. They all tend to have 'issues' that come along with them at times.

Remove those variables from your grows and you'll have much better results. Run a bubble cloner for a week and then run it again with a few drops/bits of any Miracle Grow product... chances are you'll have an issue crop up.

The only time I've had issues with brown roots in DWC was when I had low DO issues (which you guys shouldn't have with big pumps and chillers) and when there were 'issues' with my tap water. (ruling out the times I messed it up with organics and whatnot)

F&D has a lot of advantages over DWC in warmer areas. Ends up taking a lot less 'maintenance' energy to keep things cool and oxygenated.

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:
 

Jeeyah

Active member
I'm not an expert. But, I like Dutch Master Zone. Like Hydro-Soil said. Plain nutes. No organic additives. I like GH Maxi nutes with drip clean and Zone. That's it.
 

pip313

Member
Straight lucas for dwc, water temps up to the 80's seasonally, no root rot in years, hydro-soil hit it on the head no organics, no sugars, no bennificial fungus or bacteria. no h202 either, not needed, air flow through the stones is key h202 is a band-aid

I do not recomend 80's temps for water but I don't have a chiller and for me there is no problem. Read on water temps and dissolved oxygen before thinking what I am doing is ok, its only barely acceptable and seasonal for me.

My point is if I can advoid issues then you can too just stick to salt type nutrients. salts are better anyway organics do not feed plants.

plants absorb ions, salts are the source of ions not organometallics or organophosphates or complex amine compounds.

1/2 oz 3% or 30% h202? huge difference
 
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