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I Dont Know Whats Wrong ! Please Help

Buddaluva

Member
I have an Auroora Indica that is 12/12 from seed

Today is the 3rd week day 28

She is under a 250 hps

3B mix soil , 1/2 strength maxibloom , 3 L air pot

The top of her leaves has a funky look and color ,

Could someone please help me out with this

Thanks in advance fellas
 

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thefanfx

Member
Nutrition burn

i don't know how often you feed them but please quit feeding them with nutrition each time for example use nutrition 1 per 3 times , the rest use just pure water , and now totally quit any nutrition for at least 10 days maybe more till you get them back healthy

they are still young and your pots are not so big , so if you put chemistry each time you can kill them

the rest looks fine , hope you can get them back

GL m8
 

Blaz3

Member
I would say..maybe too much nitrogen??..or your ph is messed up..either way,i mighth suggest a good flush for 2 days,with GOOD ph'ed water..thats it....something is wrong..its not a deficincy..maybe lockout or too much of nitrogen..flush flush flush
 

thefanfx

Member
so :) your pH is perfect and as i said before it's burn

no worries you can fix it , next 10 days pure water , double size water than normal , if you feed them till now with 0.5liter , now put 1 liter , yeah it will overwater them a bit but it will wash the poison from the soil

and be sure that your pot's are well ventilated at the bottom , all the liquids must go free out from the pots , so more holes = better life

update: You are using smart air pots :) so there will be no issue at all with overwatering and things like this , go brave and put a lot of water next couple of days

in 10-15 days you'll see the results and remember NO NUTRITION'S just PURE WATER

GL m8
 
S

SeaMaiden

That does not look like any nutrient burn I've ever seen. And there is nothing else about the plant that suggests an overfertilization situation has occurred.

Budda, have you used Maxibloom before? How about the media (looks like either a very light potting soil mix, or soilless)? The media used determines to some degree what pH parameters you want to keep, and by the crinkling and twisting the suggestion from the plant is that the pH is not to its liking at this time.

However, the rest of it...? Difficult to say as I've never quite seen all those symptoms occurring together. I've seen crinkling and twisting, but not concurrent with the odd light spots. I've seen the new leaves emerge with strange narrow areas, but not in conjunction with the twisting and crinkling.

I'd like to know more about what you're feeding and other parameters. Right now I think the pH is out of range for this particular plant and I would try dropping it. I would not flush, I would feed at lower strength at most. I'm also going to suggest giving a few foliar feeds of seaweed, if you have it.
 
O

OrganicOzarks

I use to use this pretty shitty soil, and I had similar problems as you. I am not saying your soil is shit it was just a reference.

My plants were getting locked out for whatever reason. Yours seems not nearly as bad as mine was.

I would second a foliar feed. The problem looks pretty minute at this point.

I would foliar feed a compost tea, but if you can't do that then use seaweed, fish, and yucca.

I call that the trifecta. I also use it when I am transplanting as well.

It does wonders. If wanted to just use the trifecta all the way through veg you would be gold. However with the right soil mix you can go through veg with just water.

P.S. I also agree that it doe snot look like burn at all.

Ain't growin herb the funnest?:)
 

Blaz3

Member
Foliar feeding something such as seaweed is ALWAYS a good idea for ANY stressed plants..so very good tip Organic..I would assume the yucca is a surfactant?..and yes fish emulsion is so good,but damn does it stink lol...

I highly encourage all growers,old and new to try seaweed extract..mostly as a foliar spray...however root drenches and soil amendment (with powder extract) are also good..

and to the o.p..i stand by what i said,..I highly doubt its a deficiency..but most likely ph issues,...if not that,then maybe a nitrogen overfeed,indicated by the "claw"...

you can search "claw" here on icmag for more info..

thank you for using icmag for your growing needs,please come again soon.
 
S

SeaMaiden

What many people interpret to be the N+ claw is often caused instead by transpiration and the plant's 'desire' to control that transpiration.

Learn about vapor pressure deficit, and what rhododendrons do when it gets cold (or, even worse, cold AND dry), it'll help you visualize what happens.
 

lost in a sea

Lifer
Veteran
so you suggesting that if the vpd increased very quickly then the difference between current saturation and potential saturation at that temperature would attempt to draw so much humidity out the plants stoma that they respond by rolling their leaves up slightly?

im guessing that this kind of deficit between values could cause a certain amount of stress to the plant maybe? ,, since it will fluctuate how much the plant can transpirate, starting and stopping the photosynthetic mechanisms.. ive been thinking alot lately about whether changes like that could be why peoples plants hermie so much indoors, but ive been thinking more along the lines of air pressure changes and the effects on plants that were selected at different altitudes from sea level..
 
S

SeaMaiden

The period of time it takes for temperature and/or humidity to change isn't the issue here, IMO. But yes, if it's too hot and dry, they will curl their leaves down over themselves, and it often resembles N+ claw. And yes, if the VPD values and ranges are off, then the plant cannot transpire properly, and transpiration is the circulation system, its heartbeat so to speak, so absolutely it can be a terrible stressor for a plant.

Altitudes, I'm not sure how those parameters factor into the equation here. Typically higher altitudes trend toward drier and cooler conditions, but I couldn't begin to guess at how lowered air pressure might change things up.

But we've all seen the "happy" plant stance, right? Leaves very tumescent, pointing upward, often almost straight up, kind of an opposite stance.
 

lost in a sea

Lifer
Veteran
yeah agreed and it was just that with different genetics having been selected for growing at certain altitudes and used to consistantly slightly lower pressure at high altitudes for example, that if grown down at sea level and the conditions were changable enough in factors like the vpd then maybe they would be less capable of dealing with those swings at that alien altitude,,, was just one of those odd ideas that bounds around at the back of your head..

people growing dope rarely, if ever, think about things like this..
 
1

187020

I kno your temps is good homie, but I believe better air exchange using a stronger extraction fan will breathe new life into the closet! All peace
 

Buddaluva

Member
That does not look like any nutrient burn I've ever seen. And there is nothing else about the plant that suggests an overfertilization situation has occurred.

Budda, have you used Maxibloom before? How about the media (looks like either a very light potting soil mix, or soilless)? The media used determines to some degree what pH parameters you want to keep, and by the crinkling and twisting the suggestion from the plant is that the pH is not to its liking at this time.

However, the rest of it...? Difficult to say as I've never quite seen all those symptoms occurring together. I've seen crinkling and twisting, but not concurrent with the odd light spots. I've seen the new leaves emerge with strange narrow areas, but not in conjunction with the twisting and crinkling.

I'd like to know more about what you're feeding and other parameters. Right now I think the pH is out of range for this particular plant and I would try dropping it. I would not flush, I would feed at lower strength at most. I'm also going to suggest giving a few foliar feeds of seaweed, if you have it.

Yes i have used maxibloom before , ( a lot actually all my plants have done well with it in the past put i also know all plants are not the same ) so maybe it does not like the maxibloom

I never have used this 3b mix before and it does not show what npk is ( if any )

The ph has been around 6.4 ( sometimes it will be between 6.2 and 6.5 , but its normally around 6.4 )

The first time i gave her nuts i did try out that m.g organic all purpose but went back to maxibloom

Do you think this strain prefers a lower ph like hydo ph or maybe a higher ph

As far as foliar feeding i do not have anything for that , i live in a small town with no hydro stores ,

Would some diluted molasses be ok for a foliar feed ?

I will post pic at bottom of post

I use to use this pretty shitty soil, and I had similar problems as you. I am not saying your soil is shit it was just a reference.

My plants were getting locked out for whatever reason. Yours seems not nearly as bad as mine was.

I would second a foliar feed. The problem looks pretty minute at this point.

I would foliar feed a compost tea, but if you can't do that then use seaweed, fish, and yucca.

I call that the trifecta. I also use it when I am transplanting as well.

It does wonders. If wanted to just use the trifecta all the way through veg you would be gold. However with the right soil mix you can go through veg with just water.

P.S. I also agree that it doe snot look like burn at all.

Ain't growin herb the funnest?:)

I do not have any places around here that i could buy anything to foliar feed my plants ( i do have molasses ) you said compost tea , how would i do that ? just let some tea bags sit in some water x amount of time ?

Foliar feeding something such as seaweed is ALWAYS a good idea for ANY stressed plants..so very good tip Organic..I would assume the yucca is a surfactant?..and yes fish emulsion is so good,but damn does it stink lol...

I highly encourage all growers,old and new to try seaweed extract..mostly as a foliar spray...however root drenches and soil amendment (with powder extract) are also good..

and to the o.p..i stand by what i said,..I highly doubt its a deficiency..but most likely ph issues,...if not that,then maybe a nitrogen overfeed,indicated by the "claw"...

you can search "claw" here on icmag for more info..

thank you for using icmag for your growing needs,please come again soon.

Ph stays around 6.4 , but has been 6.2 and 6.5 at times

their are no stores around here that sell good growing stuff , i just have a wal mart and a lowes lol

What many people interpret to be the N+ claw is often caused instead by transpiration and the plant's 'desire' to control that transpiration.

Learn about vapor pressure deficit, and what rhododendrons do when it gets cold (or, even worse, cold AND dry), it'll help you visualize what happens.

i could be wrong but i dont thing my air is to dry because my humidity has been between 45 and 50 % so their is some moister in the air

i do have one of those crane humidifiers though if need be

so you suggesting that if the vpd increased very quickly then the difference between current saturation and potential saturation at that temperature would attempt to draw so much humidity out the plants stoma that they respond by rolling their leaves up slightly?

im guessing that this kind of deficit between values could cause a certain amount of stress to the plant maybe? ,, since it will fluctuate how much the plant can transpirate, starting and stopping the photosynthetic mechanisms.. ive been thinking alot lately about whether changes like that could be why peoples plants hermie so much indoors, but ive been thinking more along the lines of air pressure changes and the effects on plants that were selected at different altitudes from sea level..

We have had some unstable weather here lately , sunny , then storms , sunny then storms

But since my grow is in my closet i did not think that that outdoor conditions could mess up my indoor stuff ( but idk )

The period of time it takes for temperature and/or humidity to change isn't the issue here, IMO. But yes, if it's too hot and dry, they will curl their leaves down over themselves, and it often resembles N+ claw. And yes, if the VPD values and ranges are off, then the plant cannot transpire properly, and transpiration is the circulation system, its heartbeat so to speak, so absolutely it can be a terrible stressor for a plant.

Altitudes, I'm not sure how those parameters factor into the equation here. Typically higher altitudes trend toward drier and cooler conditions, but I couldn't begin to guess at how lowered air pressure might change things up.

But we've all seen the "happy" plant stance, right? Leaves very tumescent, pointing upward, often almost straight up, kind of an opposite stance.

I do not know my altitude but my lat is 35 ,

The most im willing to say is that i do live in N.C in the mountains foothills ( i believe my elevation is close to 860 ft )

yeah agreed and it was just that with different genetics having been selected for growing at certain altitudes and used to consistantly slightly lower pressure at high altitudes for example, that if grown down at sea level and the conditions were changable enough in factors like the vpd then maybe they would be less capable of dealing with those swings at that alien altitude,,, was just one of those odd ideas that bounds around at the back of your head..

people growing dope rarely, if ever, think about things like this..

Dont know my altitude i just know im about 860 ft up ( sorry my man )

Thanks so much for everyone trying to help me out with this

yall are a great group of fellas

Like i said S.M my soil does not show what the npk is if any
 

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O

OrganicOzarks

Is it me or did that label not list any sort of amendment to provide NPK?
 
O

OrganicOzarks

I forgot to add that there was also nothing in it to act as a ph buffer. Like my shitty soil I used in the past it seems like you are getting lock out to me.
 

Buddaluva

Member
That 3b mix does not show any npk anywhere on the bag

But my nutes bring my ph down and i adjust my ph to around 6.4 before i water them

i grew my sweet deep grapefruit in that same soil with maxibloom and did not have any problems

I swear this is just mind fkn me lol
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Buddalova, I have used this media before, and I fertilized on a constant basis. It has only a mild starter charge that is gone very quickly, and you also must supply Micronutrients on a constant basis as well.

I would hazard you may have a micronutrient deficiency since its affecting newest growth, but seamaiden has brought up great points too.

I just looked at the label of Maxibloom and I only see Fe listed. Thats not gonna cut it with a peat/lite medium. Plantex CSM+B is a good micronutrient mix, or switch over to different ferts that supply the micros.
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
I forgot to add that there was also nothing in it to act as a ph buffer. Like my shitty soil I used in the past it seems like you are getting lock out to me.

This media has dolomitic limestone. There is no reason to add more to it, that will only serve to increase the pH. Its ready to go out of the bag.
 

Blaz3

Member
Budda...perhaps I can persuade you to try coco coir??..please..pretty please with a cherry on top..I PROMISE you,once you try coco,you WONT go back to dirt...


I can help you get started,a 5kg bale is 10dollars...makes ~15 gallons....

So please consider it Budda!
 

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