Ronbo, I know it may be a waste of time and money, but it surely can't hurt laying the stuff down around the garden. You're probably right though and it will be a waste of time and money. I will be all over this next year for sure.
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Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.
- Thread starter hamstring
- Start date
Ronbo, I know it may be a waste of time and money, but it surely can't hurt laying the stuff down around the garden. You're probably right though and it will be a waste of time and money. I will be all over this next year for sure.
Funny you should mention the wild roses because that is exactly what I have around the garden. I've been trying to kill them for years now. You talk about a resilient plant, it's almost as bad as trying to kill off rhubarb.
Im just happy as hell!!!! Every plant i have is growing and getting big and going to yield big just like they should and not like the 1/4 yeilds ive been getting in the past years.
My plants have it, you can tell but they arent being harmed by it at all and are dark green and not a yellow leaf. I have a 1/2 leaf yellow here and there. I saw 4 plants yesterday, big plants and pulled maybe 10 leaves off the whole bunch. 2 leaves off of a 7' plant isnt anything to get alarmed about. In fact, im dancin in the patch!
I hit those 4 with a dose of daconil last night and will hit my other 8 over the next 2 days. Its supposed to last for 14 days - mid aug and if i can avoid it til then im home free..
it feels good!
My plants have it, you can tell but they arent being harmed by it at all and are dark green and not a yellow leaf. I have a 1/2 leaf yellow here and there. I saw 4 plants yesterday, big plants and pulled maybe 10 leaves off the whole bunch. 2 leaves off of a 7' plant isnt anything to get alarmed about. In fact, im dancin in the patch!
I hit those 4 with a dose of daconil last night and will hit my other 8 over the next 2 days. Its supposed to last for 14 days - mid aug and if i can avoid it til then im home free..
it feels good!
yeah, this shit is fucked...
yeah, this shit is fucked...
Better break out the marijuana garden saver...
great book to help understand the mobility of different Nutes thereby aiding diagnosis... plus all the pest and disease info!
Peace,
Infi
yeah, this shit is fucked...
Better break out the marijuana garden saver...
great book to help understand the mobility of different Nutes thereby aiding diagnosis... plus all the pest and disease info!
Peace,
Infi
[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=36836&pictureid=918794"]View Image[/URL]
Better break out the marijuana garden saver...
great book to help understand the mobility of different Nutes thereby aiding diagnosis... plus all the pest and disease info!
Peace,
Infi
Bought it, somewhat disappointing. I figured for the price it would be just about as informative as the bible (Jorje Cervantes), but I'll add it to my arsenal. It's very informative regarding pests, but I think someone should make one that focuses more on disease. My experience shows me that nutrient def. are usually the symptom of a greater problem (Nute Lockout). I have two different problems that persist in my outdoor garden (the present issues) and indoor garden (small fan leaves by buds crisping and then dying off). I thought this was a fungus that I have been fighting, but i'm not so sure any more. I just haven't seen the same looking leaves and brown discolorations as others have with the typical fungus problems. I cut the leaves off and spray and it seems like nothing I spray with keeps the lower leaves from dying. I'll keep spraying, but I would really like to find out others that have the exact looking leaves and smudges on those leaves that I do. I have been looking for 2 years now and still haven't seen exactly the same problems as I have. The plants seem to be loving the copper wash though. I'm going to definitely keep giving it to them.
Most Nutrient problems look very similar and differentiate mainly on where they start and how they progress through the plant which is all determined by how Mobile the nutrient is... which the MGS book is a great study guide to memorize or at least gain an understanding of how these nutrients move throughout the plant. And if one can understand that well enough it makes fertilizing and avoiding lock out easier... speaking of which I should find my copy I could use a little refresher.
do you have pics in the infirmary?
If the lower leaves die first then begin to move up the plant its usually nitrogen def. or root bound... if they go all yellow first
Yea, I've posted pics in here. Just search on my user name. Also, I have a thread I started at grasscity. Here is the link to that......http://forum.grasscity.com/outdoor-...leaves-turning-yellow-outside-smart-pots.html
I'll have to read up on the mobility. I read some brief descriptions, but haven't looked any further. Just got the book a couple days ago. Will start reading cover to cover.
Unbelievable!!! Sooo, apparently my nitrogen is depleted from my soil. I tested the soil and the P and K were high, but the nitrogen was almost non-existent. I'm still waiting to see if the fuckers come out of their funk after giving them a heavy dose of high nitrogen nutrients, but as of right now, they are still losing leaves. At least now they are starting to get dark green leaves again. It gives me hope. Seems like every fucking year I learn something new. While I thought this was a fungus problem all along, I can now see that it is a soil problem. I'm adding 3 buckets of manure to my soil mix next year instead of the one. That should put me well into flowering.
You know after all the problems i've had growing inside and out, it's no wonder weed costs so fucking much. I swear my indoor stuff costs me about $75 or $100 an ounce to grow. And that doesn't even include the money i've spent on building the rooms inside. I mean shit, i've been growing for 3 years now. How fucking long does it take to figure this shit out? I've never had problems growing tomatoes, and tomatoes grow a lot like weed. At this rate, i'll never figure it out.
bbrandon888
Member
What are some strains that show good resistance to Blight/Leaf Spot.?
The only strain ive found that shows any resistance at all is Sensi star. Its the last plant to get the disease and doesnt usually die from it. If alone and no other strains are around it, its likely that it wont get the disease and it doesnt spread quickly if it does.
Every strain ive grown from Greenhouse is VERY succeptable and most of the european based strains have been quite succeptable to it. Their genes show a higher degree of suceptabiltiy to blight and other fungal diseases. Im undecided yet on the cali/canadian genetics.
Every strain ive grown from Greenhouse is VERY succeptable and most of the european based strains have been quite succeptable to it. Their genes show a higher degree of suceptabiltiy to blight and other fungal diseases. Im undecided yet on the cali/canadian genetics.
bbrandon888
Member
How about Nirvana strains like Kaya Gold or others fromt here.?
canna woop!
Member
skim milk will still putrify. In order to extract the pure(er) lactobacillus from the milk, add 10 parts milk to 1 part of rice wash- the water you use to clean your rice before cooking it. after the rice wash has sat in a cool, dark place for 36 hours, add the milk and monitor it closely. strain the curd out before the mold appears on the surface and you have a lactobacillus serum. Store in an open container in the refrigerator. this serum is very concentrated and it will eradicate leaf molds.
B
bajangreen
Has any one tried lactobacillus on a infected tree I just lost the bottom half of some 10 foot plants. I fought this last year thinking it was a calcium defishentcy, but that was with autos in the dry season, its wet season and I have big plants, well now I have half of a big plant, this thing moves fast and will take over the plants and kill them all if not dealt with in a timely manner.
Now I know the simptoms I will know that to do next year.
But.......
I was thinking, I knew something was wrong with my plants as there were not growing for about 10 days before the first leaf spot, I all so noticed the main stems had srunk pior to leaf spoting, the plants looked unhealthy in general, has anyone noticed these early sings or is it just me?
Now I know the simptoms I will know that to do next year.
But.......
I was thinking, I knew something was wrong with my plants as there were not growing for about 10 days before the first leaf spot, I all so noticed the main stems had srunk pior to leaf spoting, the plants looked unhealthy in general, has anyone noticed these early sings or is it just me?
B
bajangreen
is this it?
Hi all,
After trawling the net looking for any info on leaf spot I found this thread to be the most helpful.
I noticed it on my plants about 3-4 weeks ago and initially thought it was a def, it was only on a couple of leaves on the bottom, anyway a week later I found out what the real problem was and since then have tried a lot of products including Bordeaux Mixture, Neem oil, Garlic concentrate, Bicarb of soda, PH up/water mix, Horsetail liquid and Hermotyc(L), I'm not sure if any of them have helped but I do know not to use the Hermotyc(L) at full strength because it burned the crap out of my plants, it does seem to have slowed a little though but not enough to be considered a success.
I'm in Ireland and all local plants such as briars, ash and hazel trees all are seriously infected, the only plant that has no sign whatsoever are the Blackthorn bushes, all the foliage is lush and green.
Anyway next for me is h202 and as a last resort elemental sulphur.
In my garden is Seedsman seeds White Widow, WW x AK, WW x Himalyan Gold, Blueberry cheese, Red Poison Auto, LSD and World of Seeds Wild Thailand, the most resistant out of all is the Wild Thai, perhaps it has better immunity because it's a landrace strain, each plant only has one or two brown spots and it is growing normally, the WW is faring worst of all and at 7 nodes has lost the bottom 4 sets with the top 3 yellowing rapidly so she is a gonner for sure.
I believe with the wetter humid summers we are getting here it will soon be impossible to grow outdoors unless this goddamn blight can be controlled or eradicated.
Happy Growing all.
After trawling the net looking for any info on leaf spot I found this thread to be the most helpful.
I noticed it on my plants about 3-4 weeks ago and initially thought it was a def, it was only on a couple of leaves on the bottom, anyway a week later I found out what the real problem was and since then have tried a lot of products including Bordeaux Mixture, Neem oil, Garlic concentrate, Bicarb of soda, PH up/water mix, Horsetail liquid and Hermotyc(L), I'm not sure if any of them have helped but I do know not to use the Hermotyc(L) at full strength because it burned the crap out of my plants, it does seem to have slowed a little though but not enough to be considered a success.
I'm in Ireland and all local plants such as briars, ash and hazel trees all are seriously infected, the only plant that has no sign whatsoever are the Blackthorn bushes, all the foliage is lush and green.
Anyway next for me is h202 and as a last resort elemental sulphur.
In my garden is Seedsman seeds White Widow, WW x AK, WW x Himalyan Gold, Blueberry cheese, Red Poison Auto, LSD and World of Seeds Wild Thailand, the most resistant out of all is the Wild Thai, perhaps it has better immunity because it's a landrace strain, each plant only has one or two brown spots and it is growing normally, the WW is faring worst of all and at 7 nodes has lost the bottom 4 sets with the top 3 yellowing rapidly so she is a gonner for sure.
I believe with the wetter humid summers we are getting here it will soon be impossible to grow outdoors unless this goddamn blight can be controlled or eradicated.
Happy Growing all.
B
bajangreen
If you can find a product with amino acid it strenghens the plant. If you can remover all infected leaves fro 3 days straight works good as well, remove the dirbis from under the trees, even if you only put it in a plastic bag.
