the sickness is spreading, please help!

[groady-ho]

i have no clue what's going on..something has spread all over my plants..the moms are in soil, flowering plants and clones alike are in coco..

the leaves are turning a dark green with white and light green splashy splotches...
they look aweful..i have never had or seen this before..
the guide to sick plants was really no help as it could be numerous deficencies or bugs possibly..

the pics of the leaves are not very good but you can still see what's going on..i can take more if needed..

thank you all very much for your time and any help is greatly appreciated...

 

[groady-ho]

the closest thing i've found to this problem is mosaic virus..but, once again, i have not seen this or anything like it before..it has spread to all plants tho..damn...sucks bad..

 

[skullznroses]

that looks like spider mites... but you must have thought of that. Little tiny white babies on the backs of the leaves, and tiny webs forming deep within the plant near the base of a leaf where it meet the leaf stem. !??!?!

To be honest we need to see a clearer image. the surface of the leaf must be more clear. Thanks

 

[groady-ho]

NO, skullz i never thought of spider mites..honestly never seen them before..this is my first problem ever...i can't rub off the white spots either and can't find any webs..

 

[groady-ho]

spot on bro..spider mites..just read the spider mite thread and the leaves are dead on for my problem...


looks like neem oil, pest strips and bug bombs are needed..

 

[shmalphy]

Spider mites in July lol no way... They are EVERYWHERE outside right now, they "bloom" when there is a dry spell and it's warm

Try lavender or cilantro FPE:

Take 1/2 water and 1/2 plant matter (lavender flowers or cilantro leaves), mix and soak 48 hours, strain, dilute 50-1, and apply. Using a blender to puree cuts it down to 24 hours.

Neem is also good to apply to veg plants once a week as a preventative, especially in summer.

 

[PuReKnOwLeDgE]

Groady, did you see the mites? They are easy to see when you flip the leaves over. You will see the adults, youngins, and their eggs. Don't just look at the damage see the mite.

Now if you have mites, welcome to growing. This is the downside, and you can watse hundreds if not thousands of dollars learning how to rid of these things, not even adding in crop loss + investment loss.

Mites are very strong and resillent creatures and if you slap them with a little of this, little of that, their resistance grows. Neem helps, but won't come any where near ridding your problem. Neem is a best as a preventitive if anything. Pest strips can work if you let the fumes build up enough, but you have to repeat applications to break their life cycle. I wouldn't bet anything that the pest strips would rid you of a heavy infestation, these things suck, just when you think you have won they come back harder. Bugs bombs are the same, repeat applications are needed and they are not 100% going to clean house.

How many rooms and plants do you have? Where are they in their life cycle.

You have a shit ton of reading to do on your enemy, they grow resillent, can lay dormant and pop back out, populations explode in high heat. Mites are one of the most dreaded bugs and there is a lot to them. I could literally type 2 pages of shit about the little bastards.

If you are in veg, or early flower, this can save you a shit ton of trials and tripulations. Screw all the bandaids and go for the nukes. I prefer floramite, it works for up to three weeks and kills all life cycles. You must use precaution and use floramite at appropiate times during the grow, use the right safety equipment while applying, and reapplying a second dose is good measure. Also, rotating with Forbid is a good choice since they can build resistance to one type of pesticide overtime. Floramite is pricey, but can be obtained by the ounce on ebay most the time. Get some floramite and forbid, use them accordinly, win the war. Don't let this go on and on and on. Many people bandaid this problem, making there mites stronger, and elongating the pain and suffering.

Preventives are always best, I use ladybugs, they are cheap and effective, but not good for killing a large fast breeding population.

Don't mess with the weak shit, erradicate them.

 

[Puddin'tane]

groady, listen to PK..do not fuck around with stoopid organic methods..
a regimen of floramite, and /or azamax will eradicate them within one treatment..you should really try to identify them before you treat though..floramite will not kill broad mites, but is deadly to our two spotted friend..if all else fails, get you some avid..but dont just spray all willy nilly..you need to cover up, goggles and respirator, no pets or kids around..pm me if you need more help bro..

 

[Al Botross]

drag the bottom of a suspect leaf in the coco if it sticks it spider mites. and it look like its going to explode anytime now, so get on it.

 

[groady-ho]

after very ecareful examination with a magnifying glass i do see a bunch of very tiny black bugs that squish easily..
they are not gnats..much smaller and they don't fly...white eggs as well are seen..


let the battle begin!

thank you all so very much..

 

[groady-ho]

Groady, did you see the mites? They are easy to see when you flip the leaves over. You will see the adults, youngins, and their eggs. Don't just look at the damage see the mite.

Now if you have mites, welcome to growing. This is the downside, and you can watse hundreds if not thousands of dollars learning how to rid of these things, not even adding in crop loss + investment loss.

Mites are very strong and resillent creatures and if you slap them with a little of this, little of that, their resistance grows. Neem helps, but won't come any where near ridding your problem. Neem is a best as a preventitive if anything. Pest strips can work if you let the fumes build up enough, but you have to repeat applications to break their life cycle. I wouldn't bet anything that the pest strips would rid you of a heavy infestation, these things suck, just when you think you have won they come back harder. Bugs bombs are the same, repeat applications are needed and they are not 100% going to clean house.

How many rooms and plants do you have? Where are they in their life cycle.

You have a shit ton of reading to do on your enemy, they grow resillent, can lay dormant and pop back out, populations explode in high heat. Mites are one of the most dreaded bugs and there is a lot to them. I could literally type 2 pages of shit about the little bastards.

If you are in veg, or early flower, this can save you a shit ton of trials and tripulations. Screw all the bandaids and go for the nukes. I prefer floramite, it works for up to three weeks and kills all life cycles. You must use precaution and use floramite at appropiate times during the grow, use the right safety equipment while applying, and reapplying a second dose is good measure. Also, rotating with Forbid is a good choice since they can build resistance to one type of pesticide overtime. Floramite is pricey, but can be obtained by the ounce on ebay most the time. Get some floramite and forbid, use them accordinly, win the war. Don't let this go on and on and on. Many people bandaid this problem, making there mites stronger, and elongating the pain and suffering.

Preventives are always best, I use ladybugs, they are cheap and effective, but not good for killing a large fast breeding population.

Don't mess with the weak shit, erradicate them.

i have 3 areas.. a mom room, veg room and flower room..all are infected now..and yes the bugs can be seen on the underside of the leaves..little white eggs as well are noted...

floramite and avid you say?

 

[groady-ho]

the weather has been especially dry and hot here..

 

[groady-ho]

alright, just bought a gallon of might wash..hope it solves this bug problem!

 

[Pro Grow Canada]

Just a thought, but if you are foliar feeding your plants it could be your dilution rate or freqency. Remember that nutes and products sprayed onto leaves tend to stick around for months, not days.
If you aren't spraying/misting/foliar feeding then I can't be of any further assistance since I have no experience with infections/diseases.

cheers,

PGC/MNT

 

[shmalphy]

groady, listen to PK..do not fuck around with stoopid organic methods..
a regimen of floramite, and /or azamax will eradicate them within one treatment..you should really try to identify them before you treat though..floramite will not kill broad mites, but is deadly to our two spotted friend..if all else fails, get you some avid..but dont just spray all willy nilly..you need to cover up, goggles and respirator, no pets or kids around..pm me if you need more help bro..

who the fuck would smoke that shit?

this is sage advice:

RE: Lavender Tea

The active compound (secondary metabolite) found in Lavender and almost all other Mint family plants (Lamiaceae or Labiatae) is Linalool. This compound is manufactured synthetically and is a registered pesticide by EPA. The synthetic version does not degrade, i.e. it accumulates and therefore it can become toxic.

The Linalool found in these plants is simply a C, H, O compound that degrades from light and air - just like THC which is also a C, H, O compound.

The challenge with using Lavender, per se, is that in the Lavender world there are 2 main groups - culinary and medicinal. The culinary hybrids produce Linalool (a Terpene - Monoterpenolss) and it produces Linalyl acetate (also a Terpene but it is acetate ester of Linalool). The Linalool level in the culinary plants are about 50% the levels in the medicinal plants.

In addition to that, the medicinal plants also bring in uber levels of Eucalyptol and Camphor. All of these additional compounds make this very undesirable to use as a herb as if regular Lavender wasn't bad enough.

But Lavender (even the medicinal plants) may not be the best choice for sourcing Linalool. Commercially there are about a dozen or so certified organic broad-spectrum pesticides that are made from oils from these plants about in this order: Cilantro, Peppermint, Oregano & Marjoram. Even the hydro store have a joke called Liquid Ladybug is nothing more than 2% Peppermint Oil and some Citric acid to arrest continued fermentation. Linalool is an alcohol based compound and therein lies potential problems.

If you want an instant insecticide then all you need to gather is a bunch of organically-grown Cilantro. You want about the amount it would take to fill a cup with crushed leaves. Lavender produces Linalool in and around the flowers whereas the Mint plants produce this compound on the leaves (primarily) and on the stalks. This means that it's very easy to extract the Linalool from the leaves of Mint plants.

Take leaf material and put it into a food processor or blender with enough water to make a puree. Add this to about 1/2 gallon of water. It is not necessary to let it sit for 2 days - even 10 hours is more than enough. Shake it a few times when you're bored.

Strain the plant material and to this 'tea' add 1/4 cup of Aloe vera extract and shake. This will activate the Saponins that will give you the surfactant benefit you're wanting. Add 1 tsp. of Pro-TeKt and fill to make 1 gallon. This is your pesticide. Spray at the end of the day (outside garden) and immediately before lights out in an indoor garden.

The reason is very simple - these compounds are, once again, Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen. Light, air, etc. degrade these compounds. Just like THC - stick a bud into a blender, add some water, soak for 10 hours and strain and then let me know who much THC is floating around that jug.

I'm thinking not too much.

Do not use hot water - 70F is perfect
Only use organically grown plants
Do not add sugar
Do not add bat guano
Do not add Soft Rock Phosphate
Do not add bird guano
Do not add perlite
Do not add Dolomite Lime

Dat's it.........

I never sweat mites, they come and they go, I have never lost a plant to mites...

 

[ixnay007]

Lavender works really well, and if you want, you can even drink it (ick), it leaves mites and eggs all dried up and unsquishable..

 

[SeaMaiden]

Lavender can work, essential oils can work, a mix of isopropyl alcohol and water can work, and NONE of these methods create resistance in mites the way Floramite, dichlorvos (NPS) and Avid have. Yes, Virginia, there *are* mites resistant to Avid!

 

[groady-ho]

i found a tea in one of my books..
i just sprayed them with a mix of lavender oil, sesame oil and thyme oil @ the rate of 6oz a gallon.....hope it wotks..
the house smells good..

 

[the gnome]

a very good miticide and ovacide is volck oil, cheap and easy to get at lowes and very low on the toxicity level.
kills a range of insects but not all types of mites, it doesn't work on broad mites.

Ive used plain old 70% rubbing alcohol knocks em dead fast! and the eggs too but not recomended in bloom and you have to be carefull, it can cause damage.
lots of stuff stuff works just depends if you want to go organic or chemical and you have a few plants or much more.
if you don't have many, the easiest thing is a NPS and concentrate the gas by tenting the plant(s) for 12 hrs.
doesn't kill eggs so repeat. no mixing, no residuals, cheap-n-easy to use

 

[Granger2]

puddintane,
Azamax is a "stoopid organic method," stupid. -granger

Groady, check the spider mite stickys. -granger