SOMEONE FIX THIS DEFICIENCY !!!!

[bickeyb]

this is getting worse day by day! leaves are falling off left and right!
DAY 30 OF FLOWER
ppms 800-850
ec 1.6 - 1.7
ph 5.7-60
res temp 70 f
nutes- AN sensi bloom A + B, sweet, big bud, aqua shield, used rapid start first 2 week
4 plants in 18 gal rubbermaid and only one plant is effected
leaves started yellowing from the bottom up.. also roots are big and healthy dark tan colors no smell from res and roots are strong if u give them a slight tug so i dont think root rot, also no bug in res and i used mosquito dunk in every res because i used to have a bad fungus gnat problem NOT ROOT APHIDS



SHE DOES NOT LOOK AS GOOD AS THE PICS SHOW!

 

[SeaMaiden]

I'd have to say that generally they're a wee bit hungry. It appears that they want N, but the upper yellowing... not so sure about that. Looking at your regimen, these plants shouldn't look like this. But they do. You're certain it's not root aphids (or any other pest..?), so that puts up a brick wall for further discussion right there.

Because, based on what you've posted, I'd have to suggest searching for root aphids.

 

[bickeyb]

I'd have to say that generally they're a wee bit hungry. It appears that they want N, but the upper yellowing... not so sure about that. Looking at your regimen, these plants shouldn't look like this. But they do. You're certain it's not root aphids (or any other pest..?), so that puts up a brick wall for further discussion right there.

Because, based on what you've posted, I'd have to suggest searching for root aphids.

no bugs are found in the res. i treat all plants in veg with bayers tree and shrub at 5ml a gal for a week before flower

 

[bickeyb]

i should mention that the plant that is yellowing is right in between 2 1000 watt lights and gets more light then the others also she was the biggest going into flower

 

[Galactic]

looks like those roots are rotting to me.

Gonna be a tough finish.

Actually smell your roots.

I wouldn't smoke poor quality product but I dont think you have a nose for discernment.

 

[ninjagaiden]

how far away are your lights from your plants.

 

[delta9nxs]

"i should mention that the plant that is yellowing is right in between 2 1000 watt lights and gets more light then the others also she was the biggest going into flower"

the plant between the lights needs more nitrogen because it has a higher metabolic rate. i don't know anything about an brand ferts but your roots don't look too bad. they are a little off color but that is probably from some of the additives you're using.

"nose for discernment", what kind of shit is this!

 

[joe fresh]

well...im going to say the opposite of these folks...and say too much nutes...leading to LOCKOUT...

im no hydro guy...but those plants are def burned...the tips that have the burned scorched tips and then yellowing behind it...that is for sure nute burn...the rest of the plant looks like what you see when you get lockout form either too much nutes or the ph being off...either way looks like a lockout....


your ph seems to be a little too stable at 5.8-6....not much drift there for the plant to absorb all nutes....how often you change res? how are the nutes and ph at when you change the res?


the roots do look a bit brown, but imo that is due to them being fried from too much nutes...


and just for "your peace of mind"....the yellow leaves that are folding up here and there...that is a P def...

leaves started yellowing from the bottom up.. also roots are big and healthy dark tan colors no smell from res and roots are strong if u give them a slight tug so i dont think root rot

reading this statement almost justifies what i said..."roots are dark tan color"...."no bad smell from res"....roots should always be white..if they are tan, means either you fried them, or they are rotting...and they passed the smell test, so they arent rotting...really sound to me like you fried this ones roots...

and when you see leaves yellowing from the bottom up, and you got some burnt tips...its a good sign of salt buildup....but im not a hydro guy so dont know if that applies

 

[joe fresh]

oh...and please, next time post this in the infirmary...thx

 

[bickeyb]

how far away are your lights from your plants.

18 inches

"i should mention that the plant that is yellowing is right in between 2 1000 watt lights and gets more light then the others also she was the biggest going into flower"

the plant between the lights needs more nitrogen because it has a higher metabolic rate. i don't know anything about an brand ferts but your roots don't look too bad. they are a little off color but that is probably from some of the additives you're using.

"nose for discernment", what kind of shit is this!

this does make sense..

well...im going to say the opposite of these folks...and say too much nutes...leading to LOCKOUT...

im no hydro guy...but those plants are def burned...the tips that have the burned scorched tips and then yellowing behind it...that is for sure nute burn...the rest of the plant looks like what you see when you get lockout form either too much nutes or the ph being off...either way looks like a lockout....


your ph seems to be a little too stable at 5.8-6....not much drift there for the plant to absorb all nutes....how often you change res? how are the nutes and ph at when you change the res?


the roots do look a bit brown, but imo that is due to them being fried from too much nutes...


and just for "your peace of mind"....the yellow leaves that are folding up here and there...that is a P def...


reading this statement almost justifies what i said..."roots are dark tan color"...."no bad smell from res"....roots should always be white..if they are tan, means either you fried them, or they are rotting...and they passed the smell test, so they arent rotting...really sound to me like you fried this ones roots...

and when you see leaves yellowing from the bottom up, and you got some burnt tips...its a good sign of salt buildup....but im not a hydro guy so dont know if that applies

i dont feel like i burnt this one because the others in the same res dont show any signs
the one that is yellowing was the biggest plant with the biggest roots
i agree that it could be salt buildup .. i change my res every week, but i have not flushed my plants meaning letting them sit in plain water for a couple hours

 

[growshopfrank]

i dont feel like i burnt this one because the others in the same res dont show any signs
the one that is yellowing was the biggest plant with the biggest roots
i agree that it could be salt buildup .. i change my res every week, but i have not flushed my plants meaning letting them sit in plain water for a couple hours[/QUOTE]

I'm with Joe on this you got a serious case of leaf tip burn

 

[Galactic]

Don't quit your day Job

 

[bickeyb]

Don't quit your day Job

excuse me? whats your fucking deal? Im hitting 2 p's a light with 4 plants

 

[Licec]

Have to agree with previous statements, slight nuteburn and lockout, honeslyt what i would do, chop the roots or at least a good portion of them, flush them and re-nute.

 

[Weird Jimmy]

no bugs are found in the res. i treat all plants in veg with bayers tree and shrub at 5ml a gal for a week before flower

You should look in to switching to Bayer Citrus and Vegetable. The percentage of Imidacloprid is much lower, and still does what you want it to do. The tree and shrub is meant to stay systemic for at least a year (and sometimes as long as 300 days), which is obviously too long for cannabis.

 

[Pro Grow Canada]

I'm not going to address any of the other comments save the original post.
First of all I have learnt the hard way that you should feed your plants grow nutes in 12/12 until the emergence of first trimester floral structures. That being said, they could simply be short on Nitrogen. I was looking at your list of nutes, and I am not 100% familiar with all of them, but I would note that I don't see a magnesium source listed. I have used sensibloom a/b and I currently use conniseur (although I am dissatisfied with it), and I still need to use CalMag.
Finally, are you using Reverse Osmosis and/or DeIonized H20?
I grow in soilless with an organic push, and I put a great deal of focus on the microlife in my rootzone, have you considered using beneficials? My own roots are bright white and are thick like tentacles. Not only do they work in symbiosis with your roots, their presence often makes your rez less inviting to outside contaminants. *note* there are very affordable alternatives that can be purchased through ebay and or researched off the internet and cost pennies")

Just my 2 cents (Canadian).

cheers,

p.s. sorry I just noticed in your pictures that you don't appear to be covering up your root zone. You should buy or make some plant covers and cover up the roots.

 

[shredGnar]

I gotta tell you, looks a lot like root aphids to me..

I just got done battling with them and the damage looks identical... It may sound like bullshit but I always noticed the plants getting more light, while battling aphids, yellowed faster then those that got less light.. perhaps the damage to the roots prevents them from using nutes and the additional lights require more reserves to be used.. or leaves going yellow.

you said there are no bugs in the res, but have you put in anything to kill them? I was not finding many bugs either, however the damage was definitely there. you mentioned fungus gnats, which I'm sure you know but when you have fungus gnats you could very well have the aphids, and the gnats like to leave their eggs in the dead roots eaten by the aphids.


at first I used the bayer tree and shrub (has .74% imid, which is almost twice the amount of the fruit verison) at 5ml and it worked well.. however I came across a post where someone was recommendeding to use 5x that amount.. or 25ml a gal. I used this in my res for one flood and this certainty seemed to kill them all.

its too late for your grow to use imid, however a half gallon of azamax would help or perhaps a gallon of SNS 203 for a few days.. would not be cheap however i have found both of these products to be very effective. a dead res could not hurt either.. I like use 10ml in my 50 gal res per krunchbubbles recommendation of 2ml per 10 gal.

also: put up some fly traps... if you have some flying insects in your room they could very well be aphids that have become fliers. Fungus gnats move around lazily and just kind of loaf while the aphids are stronger fliers and jet around.

give 'em hell bro..

shred

 

[SeaMaiden]

You're not bullshitting. You're describing exactly how it went for me. Except for the outdoor hempy tub girls under The Big Metal Halide in the Sky, ALL went just as quickly, there was no issue with the ones nearer the light yellowing faster.

no bugs are found in the res. i treat all plants in veg with bayers tree and shrub at 5ml a gal for a week before flower

This might be a problem. I don't recall the dosing rate for Bayer T&S, but as I do recall, it's a LOT more than a teaspoon (5mls) per gallon. This can cause resistance, especially if there is not a 100% kill rate (there almost never is). Also, using the same product over and over may cause resistance. We don't want, at least *I* don't want resistant root aphids.

I'm going to suggest either using instead Spectracide with Triazicide, as the Triazicide does not remain in plant tissues the same way that imidacloprid does, OR trying a hot water dip if you're really feeling froggy. Imid can be quite persistent depending on several factors.

I almost wish I had infected plants going so I could experiment with the hot water method. ALMOST.

 

[944s2]

hiya, bickey b, i am sure with help from others you will get to the bottom of this problem but i just wanted to say not to underestimate the power of your lamps, having x2 1000w only 18inches away seems a tad risky, i have x4 600w and as a rule of thumb tend to keep them 18inches,presently i have 50 girls [grown from seed] in week 7, 4 out of the 50 have had leave burn, a sensitive pheno maybe or hotspots? but i really would move your lamps up unless its a strain you have worked with before and you know it can take the heat/light, good luck anyway,sure things will be ok,peace and safe growing s2

 

[homeboxdeluxe]

werd mal sagen das die pflanzen unterdüngt sind sind schieß mal bischen mehr dünger rein mein ratt dann werd alles paletie sein.gretzz