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Broad mites....interesting read...

joe fresh

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found this little interesting article while searching the net...very clear and informative...


http://weedtracker.com/cannabis/top...rus-like-symptoms-you-might-have-broad-mites/



This is a new problem to SoCal Growers as this is usually an issue up north. This problem started to hit the SoCal scene in late 2009 (all over the grow forums). Many can agree, that broad mites are a new issue now to be concerned about, but can easily be taken care of if treated the same as Spider Mites (or any kind of pest) and are easily passed down from one grower to the next.

We are adding a new digital microscope with screen at PO for any members to check their cuttings before taking them home. We want to make PO full proof, and make sure we examine for these "New" pests one can say that are starting to cause problems.

It seems there has been a huge issue going on with many growers in California which end up destroying crops and losing strains ( PLEASE KEEP IN MIND, ITS EASY TO DISMISS PLANT PROBLEMS AND SAY ITS BUGs, YOU MUST BE ABSOLUTELY SURE, BY LOOKING THROUGH A MICROSCOPE). There is a misconception that these damages such as, Yellowing Top, slow growth, stunted growth, curling, pale stem, blotches,pistils being destroyed, etc are being associated with TMV/CMV (Tobacco/Cucumber Mosaic Virus).

In fact, though the symptoms are similar, it is HIGHLY unlikely (THERE IS NO OFFICIAL PROOF THAT TMV EXISTS IN CANNABIS. ALL LAB TESTS CONFIRM NO TMV/CMV EXISTING IN CANNABIS), as if this was true, the entire cannabis community would definitely be feeling this. There hasn't been any SOLID evidence by anyone that these damages are strictly related to TMV (or other virus). Many Tests have been conducted by many growers with always TMV being ruled out.

These Broad Mites usually have a hard time colonizing in perfect cannabis growing environments, but once allowed, they will stay and not leave unless treated.


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curledleafmargins.jpg




If you are experiencing growth like this most likely your dealing with Broad Mites. These mites are extremely small, you CANNOT see them with the naked eye.

Many people have tested for TMV/CMV and always the tests come out negative for TMV virus.

Here is a picture to give an idea how small these things are. This is a White fly, and Broad Mites are on it.


1broadmite_new.jpg


Here is some information gathered about These mites, Broad Mites or cyclamen Mites.


(Order: Acari, Family: Tarsonemidae, Polyphagotarsonemus latus.


Tiny broad mite adult carrying an immature mite.
Description:
Adult: Adults are very tiny with the female body length of 0.2 to 0.3 mm and males about half the size of females. Adults are broadly oval and whitish to yellow-green but appear somewhat translucent except under extreme magnification. They have four pair of legs, with the front two pair widely separated from the posterior two pair. The last pair of legs appears threadlike.

Immature stages: The appearance of the egg is the key characteristic generally used to verify plant infestations by broad mites. The eggs are nearly transparent with the exception of rows of whitish circular projections that give the eggs a speckled appearance. The larval and pupal stages appear similar to the adults but are smaller. The larval stage has six legs and the pupal stage has eight legs.

Biology:
Life cycle: Adults move short distances by walking, but are dispersed long distances by wind or by attaching to and 'hitch-hiking' on winged insects such as aphids and whiteflies. Eggs are laid singly on the lower surface of young apical leaves and flowers. Average egg production is reported as 40 to 50 eggs per female. Eggs hatch is about two days and the larval and pupal development requires a total of 2 to 3 days. Adult males emerge first and will carry female pupae to younger tissues. Females emerge and generally mate immediately. Unmated females produce only males which may then mate with the female, assuring production of subsequent females. The entire life cycle requires about one week under favorable conditions and typically occurs in the youngest terminal growth. Broad mites are generally not found on fully opened leaves.

Seasonal distribution: Broad mites have a wide host range and can occur throughout the year in tropical climates. Reproduction does not occur below 13°C nor above 34 degrees. Temperatures of about 25°C and humid conditions are most favorable. Cold winters and hot, dry summers usually limit populations in Georgia. Rainy fall seasons provide optimal conditions for broad mites in south Georgia, and the greatest damage usually occurs at these times.


Scarring and russetting of pepper fruit caused by broad mite.
Damage to Crop:
Broad mite has a large host range including 60 families of plants (including Cannabis). Its vegetable hosts include beet, beans, cucumber, eggplant, pepper, potato and tomato. Damage is especially severe in bell pepper. Damage is caused by secretion of a plant growth regulator or toxin as the mite feeds, and significant damage can occur at very low pest density. Symptoms include leaf and fruit distortions, shortening of internodes, blistering, shriveling and curling of leaves, and leaf discoloration. Much of this can be easily confused with viral disease, micronutrient deficiency, or herbicide injury. Fruit may be deformed, split, or russeted. Infestations in pepper can cause a bronzing of terminal growth and are frequently associated with a characteristic 's'-shaped twisting of the main stem in leaves. Damage may appear for weeks after the mites have been controlled, and when combined with the difficulty in detecting mites, makes evaluation of control measures difficult and has likely led to reports of control failures.

Management:
The broad mite's minute size and ability to damage plants at very low densities generally results in plant injury serving as the first indication of an infestation. When damage is noted, terminals of symptomatic plants should be examined under magnification to verify the presence of broad mites. Damage will usually start in small clumps in a field and can spread rapidly. Some acaricides provide excellent control, but examination of plant terminals is necessary to evaluate control success, as damage can continue to appear for two weeks after successful control.

Generalized Summery:

Adult
The adults are white-yellow, about 0.2 mm long, and the male is extremely active.

Immature stages
Eggs laid on the underside of leaves are oval, translucent and covered with five or six rows of white tubercles.

Life history
The life cycle through egg, two nymphal stages, to adult takes between 6 to 9 days.

Distribution
Occurs in all papaya districts but is only a major problem in southern Queensland.

Host range
Broad mite is a serious pest of lemons, Hickson and Ellendale mandarins and occasionally grapefruit. Wide range of other hosts including papaya, capsicum and most nursery plants.

Management
Importance
Major and frequent, more often in autumn in southern Queensland. Minor and infrequent in northern Queensland.

Damage
Broad mite attacks the growing point and the underside of young leaves causing hardening and distortion. Broad mite damage is often confused with injury caused by hormone herbicides because in both cases the leaves become claw-like with prominent veins. Grey or bronze scar tissue between the veins on the underside of the leaves distinguishes mite from hormone damage. Broad mite infestation can sometimes be confirmed with a X 10 hand lens although they have often disappeared before the damage is noticed. The characteristic egg can be seen near the veins beneath the leaf as a translucent, flat oval with a stippling of white dots. The mite itself is flat but is less easily identified than its egg.


Control methods
Chemical
Apply 2 miticide sprays 10 to 14 days apart. Good coverage is essential. Affected plants usually recover and specific control measures are not normally required in northern districts.
 
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i wouldnt take that shit as gospel... i have alot of first hand experience with their shit and i dont agree... i dont know what to make of that splotchy twisted growth but in MY garden it is not an infestation(i just want to say that so some folks dont freak the fuck out, cause i been there and done that)
 

joe fresh

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oh the twisting in this pic ive gotten bofore and i personally have come to the conclusion that its either genetic or environmental...at least most of the time...

but in my experience this is not ftal to the plants health...

332690078-IMG_5114_resize.jpg





but back to the mites, they are devastating to a crop...and if you want a more extensive read than a university study would be the best
 

LyryC

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That twisted leaf also resembles what a calcium deficiency can cause.
 

lovemyladys

New member
I spotted what I thought was hypoaspis miles in soil about a year ago. I've Always used tanglefoot on stalks and never noticed any damage on leaves.

My helper did not apply the tanglefoot on few plants and have now found what I thought was hypoaspis miles under leaves. Saw few crawling but was confirmed to be broad mites after spotting the eggs which are unique to broad mites.

Talked to the guys at liquid lady bug and was told BM do come from soil. Never noticed any damage when kept in soil.
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Broad mites can NOT be seen with the naked eye...they are too small. You have to use a scope...

They WILL descimate your garden. Spider mites, I'd have over for an afternoon bruch after my run in with broad mites...I lost my entire garden due to broads once. Lost dome great genetics...

If you have broad mites...quarantine and break out the big guns. Rotational treatments of avid and forbid every two or three days for two weeks...

And then make sure you give those plants at least 2-3 full veg cycles (clone, raise new mom, take cuts, raise new mom, take cuts, etc.) before flowering them out again.

I don't flower any plant that has been treated with ANYTHING for at least 90 days, just as a standard practice...



dank.Frank
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Good points. Or, you could use heat treatments, which kills broads on plants and the one's that inevitably get into the room. Between runs, heat treatments should be used to thoroughly clear the room of mites that get everywhere, and hence return even if all mites on plants are killed. 120 degrees F for an hour will kill them without using any pesticides. Turn off AC and fans, leave lights on. That should bring room temp to over 100, then add another heat source (more lights or space heaters) to bring temps to 120. Once you have the procedure to get temps up to proper temperature, it is simple. This will not hurt plants.
There is a company that makes heaters especially for killing all types of pests, and it will automatically bring room temperature to the point you want. These would probably only be used in large grows or warehouses.
http://www.pestheat.com/
Luckily for us, BMs are heat sensitive and die at relatively low temperatures compared to some other pests.
 

sinceEVAsince

New member
aloha IC!
joined this site because all the broad mite information in the broad mites thread.i talked to raphael a biochemist at DG and he said the best way to treat the plants was to use neem oil with 5ml dishsoap/gal 5 days in a row, he also suggested to apply it right before the dark cycle. then to use weekly treatments of the neem thereafter. his reasoning was the neem kills mites but not the eggs, theoretically new eggs are hatched daily. and you would break the cycle of breeding mites treating with this regimen. im sure other products would work on the same regimen, but i just thought i would put it out there for the community. one thing interesting was he stated neem suffocates the mites and that there is no "building resistance" to suffocation. i am on my second day of neem treatments and just got some asprin for my water. hope he is as smart as his title.
ALOHA!
 

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