What are best products for preventative measures against budrot?

[headees]

The house Im running in has moderately bad mold problem in the basement, and Im getting some loss due to budrot, aka grey mold.

I was wondering what products on the market would help prevent this on my next run. Serenade, eagle 20(I thought this was just for pm), actinovate, physan 20, dm zone???
Obviously keeping the humidity down is one thing, but its hard to do running an active exhaust in a humid part of the country.

 

[supermanlives]

controll the climate and it wont really be a problem.i tried serenade when it first came out . but i needed it mostly in greenhouses. indoor grows got a dehuey and better airflow. problems solved.

 

[slshemup]

even with perfect climate control another factor can depend on what strains your using,some mould susceptible strains buds grow so fast and thickn hard that they just cant transpire properly so the moisture is trapped in the bud which is the perfect breeding ground for botrytis aka grey mould.aslo there is a product called budrot stop that is organic and can be purchased from most hydro suppliers,know a few people that swear by it though i have not used it personally, may be worth a go if you preffer organics.

 

[krunchbubble]

The house Im running in has moderately bad mold problem in the basement, and Im getting some loss due to budrot, aka grey mold.

I was wondering what products on the market would help prevent this on my next run. Serenade, eagle 20(I thought this was just for pm), actinovate, physan 20, dm zone???
Obviously keeping the humidity down is one thing, but its hard to do running an active exhaust in a humid part of the country.

Hit up Advant Gardener, he has the solution....

 

[MIway]

Control the temps
Control the rh
Have good circ on top
Top the plants so no ctr nugs over 3" in width
Water at the beginnin of light cycles
Don't foliar anything into flower
Don't let em go way past their target date or well past 2wks of flush

Otherwise, no chem that u can apply that will stay active thru the end of flower... Unless you spray em 3wks before chop... And that's still only real chems that have curative properties... Not the bs like serenade. So you have to use unsafe practices w chems.


For high rh areas... More deuy, which means more ac to boot, which means more breakers. Or you can try less.... Fewer lights, fewer plants, less moisture. Aint ez bein a gangsta, ya know? ;-)

 

[anemone]

I've used Citroshield with good results.

 

[Bush Dr]

Plant Magic Essence or Microbial both produce a micro herd that kills the pathogens that cause botrytis

 

[headees]

Hit up Advant Gardener, he has the solution....

Care to elaborate? Is he a member here.

Thanks for the advice guys, I was hoping there was some sort of magic bullet, but the more I read the more Im finding out that there really isnt much you can do but get your environment right and water less twords the end. And even then its not a guarantee.

Ill check out these products that were mentioned though.

 

[krunchbubble]

Care to elaborate? Is he a member here.

Thanks for the advice guys, I was hoping there was some sort of magic bullet, but the more I read the more Im finding out that there really isnt much you can do but get your environment right and water less twords the end. And even then its not a guarantee.

Ill check out these products that were mentioned though.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5132368&postcount=8

 

[Veg N Out]

65-75 % of your soil Cation filled with Calcium should do it...

 

[Nondual]

65-75 % of your soil Cation filled with Calcium should do it...

Gotta love something so basic as your Base Saturation. Just grow healthy plants and diseases and pests pretty much disappear.

 

[Veg N Out]

Pretty much Nondual......Pretty much.

 

[joe fresh]

best way to avoid bud rot is choosing the right strain...

after that keep RH in check...over ferting late in flower can also lead to bud rot...


and if all else fails...get a sulfer burner...you will never see and pm or mold on your plants again

 

[YosemiteSam]

65-75 % of your soil Cation filled with Calcium should do it...

and just for good measure get your sap pH at 6.4 and do not overload the plant with nitrate.

it may not be "that easy" cause most don't have a clue what we are actually talking about...but for those that do it is bulletproof

Plus it may be impossible with any bottled nute on the market used without soil amendments

 

[Nondual]

and just for good measure get your sap pH at 6.4 and do not overload the plant with nitrate.

it may not be "that easy" cause most don't have a clue what we are actually talking about...but for those that do it is bulletproof

Plus it may be impossible with any bottled nute on the market used without soil amendments

THAT is what I'm talking about! I'm not denying the importance of environmental influences/control or the value of some products/treatments. I feel that monitoring plant health is the third part of the puzzle and very important. Diseases can be looked at as symptoms and opportunistic.

 

[Veg N Out]

THAT is what I'm talking about! I'm not denying the importance of environmental influences/control or the value of some products/treatments. I feel that monitoring plant health is the third part of the puzzle and very important. Diseases can be looked at as symptoms and opportunistic.

Nondual , you're missing YS's post.. He is saying that to obtain these parameter , You can put anything out of a bottle you want at them and you will not reach base saturation Ca 65-75%..Just won't happen. Takes CaCO3 or CaSO4 depending on the starting water..Sap pH, Brix etc,. are all identifiers of the plant working properly...Monitoring the health of your plant is the #1 part of the puzzle.

 

[Nondual]

Nondual , you're missing YS's post.. He is saying that to obtain these parameter , You can put anything out of a bottle you want at them and you will not reach base saturation Ca 65-75%..Just won't happen. Takes CaCO3 or CaSO4 depending on the starting water..Sap pH, Brix etc,. are all identifiers of the plant working properly...Monitoring the health of your plant is the #1 part of the puzzle.

Well I actually absolutely did get that part . Most growers rely on bottled nute programs and YS made a great point that these programs are not optimal and limiting in some way. He's one of the few people I've run into that tests the way he does and value his input/experience about this subject. Hardly any growers take it to the level he does. You're another grower I respect

I also agree that monitoring plant health is the priority however if you stick healthy plants in a high humidity, hot indoor environment even they will most likely fail at some point. It's like outdoors you can have healthy plants then Mother Nature will conspire against you, like at the end of last year's growing season, then products/treatments can provide support and at the least are good preventatives. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Last year I saw some gardens totally fail and growers that were on their game did OK. Are people growing elite athletes or couch potatoes?

Then you have genetic susceptibility in not only the general functioning of the plant but also flower structure (density and size). Obviously tropical genetics can handle higher humidity/heat levels before failing. If they couldn't nature/evolution would have weeded them out a long time ago.

Best I can tell I think we're pretty much on the same page with things.

 

[headees]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5132368&postcount=8

Ah, I actually have some actinovate on the way, hopefully it does the job.

 

[YosemiteSam]

Well I actually absolutely did get that part . Most growers rely on bottled nute programs and YS made a great point that these programs are not optimal and limiting in some way. He's one of the few people I've run into that tests the way he does and value his input/experience about this subject. Hardly any growers take it to the level he does. You're another grower I respect

I also agree that monitoring plant health is the priority however if you stick healthy plants in a high humidity, hot indoor environment even they will most likely fail at some point. It's like outdoors you can have healthy plants then Mother Nature will conspire against you, like at the end of last year's growing season, then products/treatments can provide support and at the least are good preventatives. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Last year I saw some gardens totally fail and growers that were on their game did OK. Are people growing elite athletes or couch potatoes?

Then you have genetic susceptibility in not only the general functioning of the plant but also flower structure (density and size). Obviously tropical genetics can handle higher humidity/heat levels before failing. If they couldn't nature/evolution would have weeded them out a long time ago.

Best I can tell I think we're pretty much on the same page with things.

Yea...agreed. I have a room where I have not quite gotten my humidity low enough and, no matter my formula, I cannot prune to grow huge colas on dense plants in that room. I get away with some...but you are right, take care of the environment also.

edit...and I find myself switching to peat from coco so I have more options to add Ca...a little carbonate and a little gypsum for me. Although I am going to be playing with Ca Peroxide in coco...just cause I gotta know.

 

[GanjaPharma]

nobody has said silica...soooo, silica.