eddie torres
Member
Other than molasses. such as act teas, guano dressings, liquid nutes, EJ ??
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supersoil, anyone adding anything?
- Thread starter eddie torres
- Start date
Add a little rev's mix, with some kushman's guano, and top it with rise veganics.......
This has some added ingredients to Sub's mix.
8 bags of Roots Organics green bag. (12 cubic feet, but really more like 10.5)
1 cubic foot of earth worm castings. Or 50 lbs
5 lbs steamed bone meal
5 lbs bloom bat guano
5 lbs blood meal
3 lbs rock phosphate
3/4 cup Epsom salts
1 cup sweet dolomite (lime)
1/2 cup azomite
2 tbsp powdered humic acid
8 cup alfalfa
8 cup kelp meal
1.5 cubic feet of Pumice.
8 bags of Roots Organics green bag. (12 cubic feet, but really more like 10.5)
1 cubic foot of earth worm castings. Or 50 lbs
5 lbs steamed bone meal
5 lbs bloom bat guano
5 lbs blood meal
3 lbs rock phosphate
3/4 cup Epsom salts
1 cup sweet dolomite (lime)
1/2 cup azomite
2 tbsp powdered humic acid
8 cup alfalfa
8 cup kelp meal
1.5 cubic feet of Pumice.
rckymtnthuglife
Member
epsom salt in my soil aint cool man
eddie torres
Member
why not?
maryanne3087
Active member
I've tried the super soil mix VIC/Subcool use. I just wanted an easy to acquire and easy to mix concoction that would amend a bail of ProMix or bags of regular potting soil if needed.
I tried the original recipe which used 1/2-1bag of chicken manure. Subcool/Vic have amended the recipe to use kelp meal and 25lbs of worm castings instead subcool now uses steamed fish bonemeal instead of cow bone meal.
I myself tried and prefer 3 Little Birds mix per 10gals of used soil you use 1cup alfalfa meal, 1cup bone meal, 1 cup kelp meal, 1 cup dolomite, and 7.5lbs worm castings and optionally 1cup green sand, 1 cup rock phosphate, 1cup diatomaceous earth. The optional ingredients I wouldn't add each time I reuse the soil as they take some time to break down I think those would be something to add every year or two.. I prefer the 3 little birds mix over the SuperSoil mix because it just isn't as hot and I find growth more vigorous(perhaps because my roots aren't growing into toxic death?)
Furthermore I add about 1tbsp/gal of Humisolve humic extract and prefer to use Azomite in place of Rock Phosphate and Oyster shell flour in place of dolomite lime(or at leas the majority of the dolomite lime).
The humic extract has a ton of benefits and is well documented on the forum and else where.
Azomite provides a lot of trace elements, quite a bit of Si, Au, and K doesn't provide much for phosphorus which is another reason I so happily replaced it as I don't believe phosphorus is incredibly important to add to plant nutrition. When growing in coco I don't address the need for phosphorus and never run into P deficiencies. The Azomite is also lower in heavy metals which is another concern of mine when using rock phosphate.
The oyster shell flour is a better liming agent compared to the dolomite which is the #1 reason why I use it. If I decide I need to amend my mix for more magnesium I would use epsom salts either mixed into the soil before planting or dissolved into the nutrient solution.
Beyond that I just add worm castings, compost, compost/wormcasting teas as I see fit. This mix doesn't really need anything added to it, everything is addressed in terms of macro and micro nutrients. I also find that the reduced amount of nutrients present in the soil gives for more vigorous growth and a better finish (plants are left starving by time to harvest)
I also either use ProMix and used soil as the base, if I have a lot of used soil that's it if I have to cut it with ProMix then I do so. As for adding greensand, rockphosphate, and diatomaceous earth I'm not really sure what advice I could offer in terms of when would be suitable to amend again. When adding new soil I add the amount I would use just for the new soil which is probably plenty to go around even if I were to cut my soil 50:50 (new
ld) I usually find myself adding at most 30% new soil to the old soil I'm reusing. High quality worm castings and alfalfa meal also provide quite a bit of minerals to the mix which is something to consider if you're buying commercial worm castings I would try to find some sort of analysis from the supplier to give you an idea of what you're using.
I tried the original recipe which used 1/2-1bag of chicken manure. Subcool/Vic have amended the recipe to use kelp meal and 25lbs of worm castings instead subcool now uses steamed fish bonemeal instead of cow bone meal.
I myself tried and prefer 3 Little Birds mix per 10gals of used soil you use 1cup alfalfa meal, 1cup bone meal, 1 cup kelp meal, 1 cup dolomite, and 7.5lbs worm castings and optionally 1cup green sand, 1 cup rock phosphate, 1cup diatomaceous earth. The optional ingredients I wouldn't add each time I reuse the soil as they take some time to break down I think those would be something to add every year or two.. I prefer the 3 little birds mix over the SuperSoil mix because it just isn't as hot and I find growth more vigorous(perhaps because my roots aren't growing into toxic death?)
Furthermore I add about 1tbsp/gal of Humisolve humic extract and prefer to use Azomite in place of Rock Phosphate and Oyster shell flour in place of dolomite lime(or at leas the majority of the dolomite lime).
The humic extract has a ton of benefits and is well documented on the forum and else where.
Azomite provides a lot of trace elements, quite a bit of Si, Au, and K doesn't provide much for phosphorus which is another reason I so happily replaced it as I don't believe phosphorus is incredibly important to add to plant nutrition. When growing in coco I don't address the need for phosphorus and never run into P deficiencies. The Azomite is also lower in heavy metals which is another concern of mine when using rock phosphate.
The oyster shell flour is a better liming agent compared to the dolomite which is the #1 reason why I use it. If I decide I need to amend my mix for more magnesium I would use epsom salts either mixed into the soil before planting or dissolved into the nutrient solution.
Beyond that I just add worm castings, compost, compost/wormcasting teas as I see fit. This mix doesn't really need anything added to it, everything is addressed in terms of macro and micro nutrients. I also find that the reduced amount of nutrients present in the soil gives for more vigorous growth and a better finish (plants are left starving by time to harvest)
I also either use ProMix and used soil as the base, if I have a lot of used soil that's it if I have to cut it with ProMix then I do so. As for adding greensand, rockphosphate, and diatomaceous earth I'm not really sure what advice I could offer in terms of when would be suitable to amend again. When adding new soil I add the amount I would use just for the new soil which is probably plenty to go around even if I were to cut my soil 50:50 (new
ld) I usually find myself adding at most 30% new soil to the old soil I'm reusing. High quality worm castings and alfalfa meal also provide quite a bit of minerals to the mix which is something to consider if you're buying commercial worm castings I would try to find some sort of analysis from the supplier to give you an idea of what you're using.
Things I consider a staple in any great soil mix aside from the well used and known:
diatomaceous earth
a nice rock mineral (azomite, mineral dust, rock phosphates)
Kelp
Alfalfa
Gypsum
Fish meal
crab meal
rice hulls
cottenseed meal
Rice flour
dry molasses
diatomaceous earth
a nice rock mineral (azomite, mineral dust, rock phosphates)
Kelp
Alfalfa
Gypsum
Fish meal
crab meal
rice hulls
cottenseed meal
Rice flour
dry molasses
When I die, char my body and send it to Cornell...
http://ecommons.library.cornell.edu/handle/1813/3503
Black bean flour. Just cause they were in the cabinet.
Looks just like Great White!
http://www.bobsredmill.com/black-bean-flour.html
16% protein/6.25 = roughly 2.5% nitrogen.
White beans have slightly less protein but half again as much calcium and iron.
http://ecommons.library.cornell.edu/handle/1813/3503
Black bean flour. Just cause they were in the cabinet.
Looks just like Great White!
http://www.bobsredmill.com/black-bean-flour.html
16% protein/6.25 = roughly 2.5% nitrogen.
White beans have slightly less protein but half again as much calcium and iron.
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