G
Guest 279031
First off, thanks to Anti for his 2009 thread and of course Dr Bud and everyone else who has posted about their micro grows. I have read many of your threads as I researched my project. And then I wrote this book (sorry 
).
I have built my own "Anti-cab" to use under a table in my hobby room. I will have 6 42w CFLs on each side. I will also be following his and Dr Bud's methods for a perpetual SOG. I understand I can't post pics until I hit 50 posts, and you've all seen the original and several like it anyhow. I built it almost exactly like his except it's a little shorter and a little wider, to best use all of the available space under the desk.
After I had completed the entire basic structure I realized I also have several PC cases waiting for the next trip to the dump and so decided to hook one up for the moms. That means I can use both sides of the Anti-cab for flowering giving me up to 10 rows (with 20 oz bottles), harvesting one row a week. If I could do it over I would obviously have built just one large area for flowering.
Now here is the reason I chose today to post this. I am looking for suggestions and ideas and maybe something I am not considering for my problem: This cab is in an uninsulated stone room in the basement. It's under my front porch. Other homes in my neighborhood build their wine cellars in this room because it never gets above 70 even when it's 100 degrees out. So my concern is not removing heat but creating it in the first place. In the winter time I would guess it stays about 50-55 and even colder when we are in the middle of a freeze outside. When the lights are off and the fan is still pulling air, those plants are going to be hurting bad. Even in the summer it stays about 60 degrees at night.
I will run my lights from 6pm to 6am so the lights are on during the coldest part of the day, but when the lights go out there will still be a problem.
To this end I am proposing to use a ceramic heating element that is typically used for reptile tanks. This is the kind that you screw in like a light bulb. It will really crank out some heat if you let it. I want to suspend it in the middle intake chamber and stick the thermostat in one of the 2 growing chambers. The air would heat up in the intake room before being pulled through the chambers. This would ensure that no plant ever gets anywhere near it, and that the heat is distributed evenly and only when necessary.
I will use plexi under the lights in the summertime, hoping that the heater won't have to work too hard to maintain temps. However in the winter I will be yanking the plexiglass and letting the lights help out. That will save the ceramic heater some, and also keep my electric bill a little lower.
That's the theory anyhow. I look forward to your thoughts.
).I have built my own "Anti-cab" to use under a table in my hobby room. I will have 6 42w CFLs on each side. I will also be following his and Dr Bud's methods for a perpetual SOG. I understand I can't post pics until I hit 50 posts, and you've all seen the original and several like it anyhow. I built it almost exactly like his except it's a little shorter and a little wider, to best use all of the available space under the desk.
After I had completed the entire basic structure I realized I also have several PC cases waiting for the next trip to the dump and so decided to hook one up for the moms. That means I can use both sides of the Anti-cab for flowering giving me up to 10 rows (with 20 oz bottles), harvesting one row a week. If I could do it over I would obviously have built just one large area for flowering.
Now here is the reason I chose today to post this. I am looking for suggestions and ideas and maybe something I am not considering for my problem: This cab is in an uninsulated stone room in the basement. It's under my front porch. Other homes in my neighborhood build their wine cellars in this room because it never gets above 70 even when it's 100 degrees out. So my concern is not removing heat but creating it in the first place. In the winter time I would guess it stays about 50-55 and even colder when we are in the middle of a freeze outside. When the lights are off and the fan is still pulling air, those plants are going to be hurting bad. Even in the summer it stays about 60 degrees at night.
I will run my lights from 6pm to 6am so the lights are on during the coldest part of the day, but when the lights go out there will still be a problem.
To this end I am proposing to use a ceramic heating element that is typically used for reptile tanks. This is the kind that you screw in like a light bulb. It will really crank out some heat if you let it. I want to suspend it in the middle intake chamber and stick the thermostat in one of the 2 growing chambers. The air would heat up in the intake room before being pulled through the chambers. This would ensure that no plant ever gets anywhere near it, and that the heat is distributed evenly and only when necessary.
I will use plexi under the lights in the summertime, hoping that the heater won't have to work too hard to maintain temps. However in the winter I will be yanking the plexiglass and letting the lights help out. That will save the ceramic heater some, and also keep my electric bill a little lower.
That's the theory anyhow. I look forward to your thoughts.
interested to see this final product!
. 
