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New to vertical growing, need help!

Devoted1

Member
Hey guys! While searching for the hydro system that suits my lifestyle, I came across the UCDWC system with auto top off. That along with Lucas Formula made perfect even better, haha. Next, I looked into different types of grows to find one that would complement the UC. It was not until another grower on GC suggests that I grow trees as it is easier to manage. I didn't think much of it at first, but as time went by (with countless hours surfing the net) I started to get more comfortable with the idea of growing trees. That brings me here. I have a lot of questions about tree style grows and hope to get as much information on them as possible.

Okay, the layout. I have two rooms to use. One will be a 10x10x8 and the other is 13x13x8. They will not be using c02, but please include your thoughts on what you guys would do if it were a sealed room so that when the time is right, I will implement it. The plants will be in an 18gal tote from Home Depot. They will be in 10" net pots and have cage fencing just like Gettrogro's. The rooms will be flopped . I will also have a veg room also that will be growing in UC's.

I plan to use the configuration that DHF had in his 10x10 perfect rooms with 4 plants in a diamond shape and 5 lights in an "X" shape. It looks like this with X's being plants and O's being lights:

OXO
XOX
OXO

With this configuration, each plant is blasted with light on three sides.

For the 13x13 room, how should I go about this to make it ideal? I was thinking of putting 7 plants with 8 lights that will look something like this:

OXO
XOX
OXO
XOX
OXO

I went with this layout because after looking at Gettogro's layout, his rooms were 9x13 and on the long side he was able to put three trees and two lights in-between them, so if it were a complete 13x13 room, he would have been able to fit all 7 trees in there with 8 lights using DHF's configuration. I might be wrong, as I am just doing napkin math just by looks. Gettrogro dedicates 4'x4' of space for his trees to grow into when done right. This I also plan on using as a rule of thumb for spacing. What are your guys’ thoughts on spacing between each tree growing in a 10x10 room and 13x13 rooms?

Now that we are talking about spacing, I want to also ask how high or low I should place the vertical lights for optimum light usage? I don't want to put it too high/low. How far should they be away from the trees? I read in the "Benefits of Vertical growing" thread that any light under/above the bulb is the dead zone. So, let's say for a 4-5ft tree, where would I hang the bulb so that it will most efficient for the trees? Also, in the same thread, I saw that with a 1k watt bulb, you can place it 10" away from the plants, but I plan to use a bare bulb, does it mean that I can move them closer since it won't have the radiated heat from using shades?

After reading Gettogro's thread, I read that he doesn't prune his trees until after day 21 - 24 of flower. He defoliates them. What do you guys think about this? So far, with all the information that I've gathered with tree style grows, you veg for X number of days depending on genetics and then you flower for X number of days with no training except with tying them during flower.

Speaking of tying them up, I like how Gettogro uses fencing cages and nets to keep his ladies in check. I know he puts the cages on at the start of flower and guide his ladies through the cages as they stretch, but the nets, when is the right time to put them on? Let's say you are using a strain that goes for 9-10 weeks, on what week would you start using the nets? I don't want to use them too soon and have the branches fall over and that would defeat the purpose. I don't want to use it too late either because it will make things harder than it should.

Is there something I should be doing in my veg phase to prepare these trees for flowering (this includes pruning etc)? This leads to my next question, what are the maintenance/steps I would need to do after the flowering phase, if there is any.

Are there specific tools/gadgets that I will need for this type of grow? For example, the PVC that I will be using needed a chamfering tool to make it smooth around the PVC pipe so that it doesn't push the solvent way into the tee's that it connects to, causing it not to seal tightly. I know that with every system there are a set of tools that is specific for it. This is why I ask this question.


The last question I have for now is root conditioning. I plan to use DM Zone Is there something else I should be using? I am looking for a combo or stand alone that will help me fight the long haul until these monsters are done. Gettogro said he uses a tea for his last grow and it helped him fight off slime and bacteria outbreaks. I don't know how to brew so, is there an alternative for this? If there isn't that means I will learn how to brew in order for me to overcome this obstacle. In that case, if anyone knows a thread or website that teaches/demonstrates on how to brew, please link it.

I am open to new styles/ideas on how you guys have your tree grow set up. I want to absorb as much knowledge as I can with this style of growing! Thanks in advance guys!:tiphat:
 
D

DHF

Hey Bro....Thanks for puttin it out there....with big plants grown fast hydro they each need 5 x 5 with bare bulbs , but GG`s got cooltubes with flexduct hangin down AND above that blocks light to the plants , but it works for his setup runnin 4.5 x 4.5....

10 x 10 with 5000 watts is the absolute yield buster with the right hybrid and dialed environment....

13 x 13 `s gotta be done as said with smaller plants in a smaller footprint....

Here ta help....DHF....:ying:......
 
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farmari

Member
Now that we are talking about spacing, I want to also ask how high or low I should place the vertical lights for optimum light usage? I don't want to put it too high/low. How far should they be away from the trees? I read in the "Benefits of Vertical growing" thread that any light under/above the bulb is the dead zone. So, let's say for a 4-5ft tree, where would I hang the bulb so that it will most efficient for the trees? Also, in the same thread, I saw that with a 1k watt bulb, you can place it 10" away from the plants, but I plan to use a bare bulb, does it mean that I can move them closer since it won't have the radiated heat from using shades?

Try playing around with a light meter. They're really cheap, and IMO pay for themselves many times over by allowing proper light/plant placement.

I wish I could offer tips, but I've only just started with a 9ftx9ft room (same 5 light 4 plant layout as DHF used in a 10x10) and am far from being dialed in!
 

Devoted1

Member
Hey Bonzo, DHF! Time for me to rethink my UC footprint for the 13x13. I will use 13gal ropak buckets instead. This should make it fit nicely. Thanks for the tip bro!
 

Devoted1

Member
Good thinking!

Good thinking!

Try playing around with a light meter. They're really cheap, and IMO pay for themselves many times over by allowing proper light/plant placement.

I wish I could offer tips, but I've only just started with a 9ftx9ft room (same 5 light 4 plant layout as DHF used in a 10x10) and am far from being dialed in!

Thanks for the input bro! I will get one now. How are you preparing the trees in veg? Do you prune them at all before flipping the switch? Are you going to tie them up or use fencing cages with nets? Let me know how it goes! I still have much to learn! Take care!
 

farmari

Member
Thanks for the input bro! I will get one now. How are you preparing the trees in veg? Do you prune them at all before flipping the switch? Are you going to tie them up or use fencing cages with nets? Let me know how it goes! I still have much to learn! Take care!

I veg them horizontally with HPS, in an RDWC system of the same exact style as the flowering system. They first start as seeds/clones in a separate domed cloner, then put in 2" net pots in the RDWC system after roots form, then into 6" net pots when they get a decent amount of roots.

I try to aim for a post-stretch plant diameter between 3.5-4ft... guessing their stretch determines when they're switched from veg to flower. I try to remove any growth near the end of the stretch that isn't going to get any direct light... though I'm really unreliable at doing so... often the plants remain fairly untouched. (it's a bitch to try to prune them, cramped in the flowering room, with large plants! At least for my lazy ass :) )

I have hooks mounted on the walls above each plant site... I tie up the branches individually with twine. (it's a bitch, LOL) If I could find some lightweight fencing of 4x4in spacing, I'd try it out. I'd recommend fencing instead of twine... especially since you'll be growing larger plants than I am!

Only been doing this for a few months now... it's a learning process. Before this, I was running a smaller horizontal RDWC system. Good luck! Keep us posted.
 

Devoted1

Member
Thanks for sharing Farmari! It's all good bro, I'm fairly lazy myself, but the type of lazy that rather take care of everything that is needed to be done first so that I can relax without having to worry about it later :]
 
D

DHF

Ok Bro.....Let`s go ta school....Krusty usedta teach to veg the plants to "tit`s high" before the flip , so they`d be almost ceiling height by end of stretch with the proper hybrid runnin 50 watts per sq ft.......and....

NEVER top a plant yas want to get big with single main colas , and the best thing to use for support in late flower is ta staple chickenwire to the ceilings for infinite positions to tie off and open up the plants for optimum airflow and lumen penetration into the inner canopy ftw........now.....

Bulb position.....ALWAYS keep the tips of the bare bulbs at the tops of the plants and raise em as the plants grow even after the flip till they`ve ABSOLUTELY stopped stretchin vertically and full swellage has begun.....then......

Once stretch is completely over and hormone changes in the plants have happened , drop the bare bulbs down where the mogul socket/bulb holder is even with the tops of the plants since they grow no more roots or foliage to speak of , and the rootmass yas build by end of stretch will determine how efficiently the bitches will suck juice and transpire during lights on , so they can swell and blow up during lights off....and then....

Trim out ALL sucker branches off the main laterals and start takin off the big ass fans that block budsites slowly over the next couple weeks till they`re all eventually gone and the only leaves left are comin directly out of the limbs/colas......

Biggest factor that came easy for me livin down here in Hell is environmental control with 70% humidity till end of stretch , and then as low as yas can get it below 50% till end of cycle for a dialed setup that`ll make yas happy come harvey....

The right hybrids will all but touch each other down low after end of stretch and the bulbs hangin down won`t be too close to the xmas tree shape of the plants for light bleachin/scorchin prevention....

Major air exchange twice per minute to prevent airborn pathogens from takin a foothold with ac`s and dehuey`s keepin ambient temps under control.......

Aight.....nuff outta my old ass fer today....Bubba wake and bake`s comin to an end cuz I smell GF cookin breakfast...Yum Yum....

Holler if I can help....DHF...:ying:.....
 

Devoted1

Member
Who says school isn't fun?!

Who says school isn't fun?!

Ok Bro.....Let`s go ta school....Krusty usedta teach to veg the plants to "tit`s high" before the flip , so they`d be almost ceiling height by end of stretch with the proper hybrid runnin 50 watts per sq ft.......and....

NEVER top a plant yas want to get big with single main colas , and the best thing to use for support in late flower is ta staple chickenwire to the ceilings for infinite positions to tie off and open up the plants for optimum airflow and lumen penetration into the inner canopy ftw........now.....

Bulb position.....ALWAYS keep the tips of the bare bulbs at the tops of the plants and raise em as the plants grow even after the flip till they`ve ABSOLUTELY stopped stretchin vertically and full swellage has begun.....then......

Once stretch is completely over and hormone changes in the plants have happened , drop the bare bulbs down where the mogul socket/bulb holder is even with the tops of the plants since they grow no more roots or foliage to speak of , and the rootmass yas build by end of stretch will determine how efficiently the bitches will suck juice and transpire during lights on , so they can swell and blow up during lights off....and then....

Trim out ALL sucker branches off the main laterals and start takin off the big ass fans that block budsites slowly over the next couple weeks till they`re all eventually gone and the only leaves left are comin directly out of the limbs/colas......

Biggest factor that came easy for me livin down here in Hell is environmental control with 70% humidity till end of stretch , and then as low as yas can get it below 50% till end of cycle for a dialed setup that`ll make yas happy come harvey....

The right hybrids will all but touch each other down low after end of stretch and the bulbs hangin down won`t be too close to the xmas tree shape of the plants for light bleachin/scorchin prevention....

Major air exchange twice per minute to prevent airborn pathogens from takin a foothold with ac`s and dehuey`s keepin ambient temps under control.......

Aight.....nuff outta my old ass fer today....Bubba wake and bake`s comin to an end cuz I smell GF cookin breakfast...Yum Yum....

Holler if I can help....DHF...:ying:.....

Hey Bro! Thanks for clearing up the clouds! I learned a lot from your detailed post, it definitely helped shorten the learning curve. Today is a good day :dance013:

I am studying the different step/styles people take when transplanting/feed methods from seed/clones in small rockwool cubes to their final transplant before flipping the switch. I am looking for other perspectives so that I can implement them into my regimen. Farmari, uses 2" net pots until roots form then he puts them into 6" net pots.
Gettogro, starts with small rockwool, then they are transplanted into bigger rockwool blocks, and finally into his 10" net pot. I see in his picture that after he puts them into the bigger rockwool blocks that he uses a top feed for them. I see the reason why he went with the big blocks. He wanted them to have stability for when they grow big and won't tip over.

How did you go about this? After seeing this, I was planned on starting them in 6" net pots that is already in 10" net pots to skip having to transplant them multiple times and have a different feed method for them. Do you think this will help with stability? Should I be concerned with stability issues if I were to do this? Any input would be appreciated! You lucky butt, got a lady that cooks for you. The saying, "a way to a man's heart is through his stomach" is so true, haha! At least that's how I am :biggrin:
 
D

DHF

I went from solo cups full of perlite and roots , then gently washed off the perlite and anchored em into 5 gal buckets of lava rock and tied em up with bamboo sticks till they anchored and set.....

Peace...DHF....:ying:....
 

megayields

Grower of Connoisseur herb's.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
.....listen to DHF.....I did and all it did was DOUBLE my yields....good luck and keep it green!
 

Devoted1

Member
Thanks for sharing bro, I really appreciate it! I have been so busy with the holiday weekend. Got caught up with work and haven't had a chance to get on. Now that it's all over, I can get back to studying/reading again, bwaha.

Megayields - Wow, props on doubling your yield bro. Keep it up!
 

Devoted1

Member
Hokay, so after reading the vert stickys, I have some new questions for ya OG (Old Guy, bwaha).

In a 10x10 room exchanging the air at least twice a minute, how useful can an A/C and dehumidifier be if the air is being exchanged so fast? Would their performance be affected?

In my 10x10 room, I plan on using two 12in fans. How would I go about creating a "vortex" of wind without causing harm to my trees? I have been trying to figure out how to remedy this but can't think of a way yet, and hope that you can help me shed some light on this issue. With that said, I plan on putting the extractor fan in the middle of the room in the roof connected to a scrubber that will be on top of the roof. It will be similar to what GG did, but for his cool tubes. Should I put the intake/extractor fans elsewhere for optimum results instead? Please let me know if there will be a problem with this idea and TIA DHF!
 
D

DHF

Lung rooms make all things possible with major air exchange....Intakes in the bottoms underneath the plants , and exhaust/scrubber bombo`s up top as yas already talked about and NEVER blow air ON the plants but rather above , below , and all around for that vortex spoken of earlier ....

Goin fishin ....will be back this evenin and explain more....Got several pm`s ta answer too ....

Peace...DHF...:ying:.....
 

Devoted1

Member
Hrmm

Hrmm

Lung rooms make all things possible with major air exchange....Intakes in the bottoms underneath the plants , and exhaust/scrubber bombo`s up top as yas already talked about and NEVER blow air ON the plants but rather above , below , and all around for that vortex spoken of earlier ....

Goin fishin ....will be back this evenin and explain more....Got several pm`s ta answer too ....

Peace...DHF...:ying:.....


Thanks for the quick reply bro! I will look up lung rooms in the meantime so that I would understand it as best I can when you explain it to me :biggrin:
 

Devoted1

Member
Hokay!

Hokay!

Alright, so with what I've just read:

lung rooms need to be bigger than your used room(s)

need to have dehueys/hueys/ac's/climate controls

While I'm at it, Which climate control /ac's/dehumidifier/humidifier would you recommend with these types of set ups?

Would I need seperate climate controls for the rooms extraction fans and another one for the lung room ac/dehuey etc?

If I had 3 rooms, two of which will be used for flowering and one for veg, does this mean that I would need four dehueys, one in each room including the lung room or just the lung room?

How would I implement flip flopped rooms with this lung room set up?

I read that the entire space or loop of rooms need to be sealed off, would I need to do this also? I originally planned on using outside air but my only concern would be if the outside air was above 80 degrees (a bigger stronger ac?) or if the RH is above 90% (two dehueys?), but with this lung room idea having ac cool that air into the lung room, it sounds very good. I wonder if the ac's would cool the hot air in time for when it enters the rooms, or is the idea to get it as cool as possible as it enters the rooms?
 
Devoted, have you bought the UC yet? When you say "it fits your lifestyle", what exactly does that mean in your opinion?

You can get the same yield as a UC from much simpler (i.e., virtually guaranteed harvests) from other systems/methods with 1/100th as much potential problems.

Fast hydro is good (coming from a guy who likes to dabble in everything, up to and including HP aero), but if you're seriously cash cropping, do yourself a favor and deal with an extra weak or two of veg to ensure that come harvest time there's something to pay the bills with.

Lots and lots of sudden deaths in a UC from growers who, on the face of it, would appear to be a tad more experienced than you (absolutely zero offense intended with that line, just my initial impressions of your experience from what I've read in this thread).

EDIT: Just re-read your first post - please take this in the manner in which it's intended:

The UC is not the right system for you right now. Do yourself a favor and use those 18 gallon containers and fill them with coco and get a couple of runs under your belt doing two new things:

1) Growing trees
2) Growing in your new rooms

Once you get the hang of that and feel comfortable, if you feel like coco is lacking in speed than consider the UC...........but building your entire room around the UC system is a catastrophic mistake, IMHO.

Good luck whatever you do.
 
D

DHF

Always grew in basements cuz I live in Hell and never pondered the cfm/sq ftg of lungrooms due to building a bigass wall from 1 side to the other and everything behind said wall became flip rooms , clone and pre-veg cabs , and what was leftover sufficed for the lungroom........but....

I ALWAYS had my flip room`s setup with a/c`s and dehuey`s thru wall and sealed for all heatgain outside the rooms in case the lungrooms didn`t supply perfect environment in deep summer , and.....

I did have auxiliary a/c`s and dehuey`s as well as larger exhaust/scrubber combo`s to take care of any residual stank if the other scrubbers were gettin older and nearing replacement in the flip rooms for insurance...

During lights off humidity soars and needs exchanged regardless if the lights on room is pullin less RH out of each room so they mix in the lung rooms , and if shit needs changed the equipment on the outsides of the bloom rooms takes care of it ftw and each room get`s what it needs regardless.....and....

The houses I grew in had crawlspaces on 1 end to pull fresh cool air in from underneath the house instead of 80-90 degree outside air to haveta deal with from the get so....again....

All about dialin environment where YOU are....Vegrooms and such are just that much more of a problem from excess humidity pumpin out into the lungroom with bigger plants , so that`s where yas prolly read about needin twice the amount of sq ftg for air exchange/re-circulation......

Figure out whatchas wanna do and we`ll work it out....gonna go grill some fish and such , drink some beers while hittin bongs....and....not necessarily in that order.....

Peace....DHF...:ying:....
 
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Devoted1

Member
Devoted, have you bought the UC yet? When you say "it fits your lifestyle", what exactly does that mean in your opinion?

You can get the same yield as a UC from much simpler (i.e., virtually guaranteed harvests) from other systems/methods with 1/100th as much potential problems.

Fast hydro is good (coming from a guy who likes to dabble in everything, up to and including HP aero), but if you're seriously cash cropping, do yourself a favor and deal with an extra weak or two of veg to ensure that come harvest time there's something to pay the bills with.

Lots and lots of sudden deaths in a UC from growers who, on the face of it, would appear to be a tad more experienced than you (absolutely zero offense intended with that line, just my initial impressions of your experience from what I've read in this thread).

EDIT: Just re-read your first post - please take this in the manner in which it's intended:

The UC is not the right system for you right now. Do yourself a favor and use those 18 gallon containers and fill them with coco and get a couple of runs under your belt doing two new things:

1) Growing trees
2) Growing in your new rooms

Once you get the hang of that and feel comfortable, if you feel like coco is lacking in speed than consider the UC...........but building your entire room around the UC system is a catastrophic mistake, IMHO.

Good luck whatever you do.

Hey bro, don't worry, I don't get offended easily. I try to learn each and every way, from everyone's pov.
When I say that it fits my lifestyle, it really means just that. I am always around and checking on things multiple times a day because it's fun to me. It's another way for me to relax. It feels good to have things go well and its exciting to see them at each and every stage. The same goes for failures also. Let's face it, life isn't perfect and shit happens, so I prepare myself for them so when they do occur, I don't waste time sulking, instead I try to learn from it and prevent it from happening again. Everything is a learning experience for me. Anyway, I'm not buying the systems, I am going to make them. It's ridiculous to spend that type of money on something I can build myself. With all this said, thanks for looking out, but I have my mind set on this, and it's what I'll stick to :)
 

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