Mixing sequence for Pro-tekt(silica) cal-mag and base in r.o?

[bushdoctor215]

What Dyna-Gro told you is correct. If you add it and nothing clouds up then, by definition, no precipitation occurred and everything is bueno. If you add enough water first before starting to dump stuff in the order is not going to matter one bit...other than you do not want the pH to be so high that CaPhosphate falls out. Having said that you might get a little bit of localized precipitation but mostly that clears right up and is not a problem

People tend to throw nutes in way to early before they have enough water. If that is what you are doing then it is best to add anything with Ca last...cause its the one that causes all of the problems.

Think about this for a second. No matter what order you add stuff all of the ions end up in the witch's brew you just created. Whatever is going to "bind" (whatever the fuck that actually means)...lets call it whatever is going to precipitate would do it regardless of order if you added water completely first and then added nutes.

It is concentrations and pH that matter...not order unless you are throwing nutes in too soon before proper dilutions can be achieved.

Don't believe it. Take a gallon of water and then add whatever ml or grams per gallon you are using...change the order on the next gallon, then again...till you have exhausted all possible combinations. Measure the EC of each...I will bet you they are the same. If you have precipitation they will not be the same. Think.

OK. Sounds good enough. Just wondering. If it`s about concentrations and pH, and not sequence, why does dyna-gro insist on using their pro-tekt first? Also, thanks for pointing out my mistake when using the word "bind" instead of precipitate. Hopefully I won`t get marked down on the next fucking test I take...

 

[TREE KING]

Where I live the tap water chemistry seems to be seasonal and once in a great while, Pro-Tekt will cloud going in first -- it should go in first per label directions (IMHO, the chemists at the company that makes the stuff, regardless of brand, actually know best how to use or apply it). All one needs to do is dilute it before adding to the rez.

If, for example, you need to add 100 ml then, put that in a 1000ml container and slowly add water while stirring. Pour the 1000 ml container in teh rez and you are good to go.

Tree King -- I clone in rockwool and the little one's don't really see any silica until they go into cups at 10 to 12 days, I use up to 2 ml per gal.

thanks mrbill sound like a good amount to put in the aero cloner im guessing

 

[dramamine]

OK. Sounds good enough. Just wondering. If it`s about concentrations and pH, and not sequence, why does dyna-gro insist on using their pro-tekt first? Also, thanks for pointing out my mistake when using the word "bind" instead of precipitate. Hopefully I won`t get marked down on the next fucking test I take...

I think it's because you have to use much more ph- if you add it last.

 

[SKUNK420]

For my r/o water it doesn't matter if I add Pro-Tek first or last, the water will get a little cloudy.
When I add the pH down it will clear up. I adjust to 5.5-5.7 pH rockwool crouton hydroton mix

I pour Pro-Tek in slowly and use a big water pump so it mixes fast.

 

[YosemiteSam]

KSil will definitely mix better at higher pHs. If you use pH down then adding it first...before pH down makes sense. Still at some point pH will have to be lowered...and if the concentrations are low enough nothing will happen. I think they realize people tend to start dumping stuff in the res as soon as they start running water and by giving the advice they do it really helps minimize problems for the user.

I apologize about the semantics...in the end that is not what is important.

 

[Izoc666]

great thread that i needed to know about mixing sequence ! i was put pro tekt first, cal-mag,grow, and bloom. one thing i noticed is cloudy when cal mag was added...i have feeling that it wasnt supposed to like that way...i decided to start anew mixing this time, i put cal-mag last...no cloudy at all..

I did rechecked the npk again..i think i dont need any calmag since Dyna gro got solid of Ca. and complete nutrition than any fertilzers. what more i use tap water. nevertheless its good to read this thread

happy growing and peace

666

 

[Abja Roots]

This is the info we all need. Good thread and thanks to everyone for adding their 2 cents.

 

[krunchbubble]

put protekt first into a RO filled res today....

zero cloud....

 

[bushdoctor215]

FWIW, I`ve been mixing 5ml cal/mag plus per gallon first to my r.o. Mix well. Then add 4ml pro-tekt per gallon with no clouding. Base added last with just a touch of Ph down needed. 3 feedings (days) in a row and plants never looked better. Time will tell...

 

[Stonefree69]

From Dyna-Gro: "Always add Pro-TeKt first and dilute before adding other nutrients." From: http://www.hhydro.com/files/Instructions/dynagro.pdf Guess Same here: http://www.dyna-gro.com/Website pdf Files/Dyna Gro Feeding Chart.pdf Krunch got it right as well as most all others here. That's why I frequent IC Mag the most out of all forums, I like some others but learn the most here.

 

[Yesca73]

tech at GH told me to add Calmag first then the micro , gro , bloom etc.
interesting about silica . I use silica blast from Botanicare . I put it in last . never noticed a problem. I dont use ph up or down. I have RO water . after reading this thread will probably continue the same sequence but dilute the silica before I add it in .

 

[Stonefree69]

What Dyna-Gro told you is correct. If you add it and nothing clouds up then, by definition, no precipitation occurred and everything is bueno. If you add enough water first before starting to dump stuff in the order is not going to matter one bit...other than you do not want the pH to be so high that CaPhosphate falls out.

Sam and otheres here have a point, dilute before adding to res can avoid problems using 1 liter to 1 gallon (if your res is bigger). So, dilute 1st adding Pro-Teckt, Cal-Mag then nutes in RO water. Dilute, don't pollute.

Many say to add Cal-Mag to RO water before nutes to avoid lockup, not after. Also Botanicare and GH have different "calmag" formulas. But as Sam and others point out diluting 1st make this mainly a moot point.

 

[Applesauce]

Wouldn't tap screw with KSil if sequence mattered in a complete sense? Some people have 75+ ppm Ca in their tap amongst other things.

 

[PeopleWish]

protect--->adjust ph-------> base -------> exe....

 

[Hydro-Soil]

Pro-tekt ---> Maxibloom ---> pH UP.

Unless you're using a shitload of Pro-Tekt, not much nutes or funky tap-water... what's all this pH DOWN stuff?

Oh yeah... you guys are buying and using Cal/Mag. *sigh* What a waste. Epsom is CHEAP and works great. Also doesn't seem to jack the pH like Cal-Crap does.

Stay Safe!

p.s. check your Cal/Mag bottle concentration too... there was a rash of 300% strength bottles running around a while back. I'm sure there are still some out there.

 

[Applesauce]

Why would they want to add epsom salt in place of cal-mag? One is Mg, the other is Ca & Mg. Epsom if you aren't looking for Mg is just going to throw your Ca:Mg ratio off.

Is it best to add protekt > pH to 7 (?) > base nutes > cal product? I have seen a few people claim it best to add your nutes at a certain pH; silicate raises initial pH quite high in my experience.

 

[Hydro-Soil]

Why would you want to add nitrogen to your grow? Cal/Mag is derived from calcium nitrate.

A bit of sulfer is just fine.

If you have to 'add' calcium... cal/mag is NOT your product. There are much better ones out there that people recommend that add ONLY calcium... not nitrogen and magnesium, when all you need is calcium.

Same thing for magnesium. Pinch of epsom gives you all the mag you need, no real pH changes and just a bit of sulpher. At a super cheap price. Why are you buying cal/mag again?

Lots of cal/mag propaganda on the net and in r/l for too many years now. Hell of a marketing department.

Stay Safe!

 

[whodare]

Cal mag is junk...

It'll fuck you ten ways to Sunday before you know it...

90 percent of the time people apply cal mag when their problem is just mag.

Ca an k interfere with mg uptake.

If you have a mg deficiency(most likely a lockout from imbalance) why would you add both ca mg and n?


Anywho as stated already silicates--base---ph.

 

[Stonefree69]

Cal mag is junk...

It'll fuck you ten ways to Sunday before you know it...

90 percent of the time people apply cal mag when their problem is just mag.

Ca an k interfere with mg uptake.

If you have a mg deficiency(most likely a lockout from imbalance) why would you add both ca mg and n?


Anywho as stated already silicates--base---ph.

Me no worry, using Dyna-Gro Pro-Tekt and Mag-Pro. Silica can really help your grow: Discover the Benefits of Silicon Nutrition in Your Plants! Just make sure it's in the form of potassium silicate as that dissolves most readily.

 

[N-P-Kali]

I use injectors and have designated the first injector in the series to KSi @ 1:3785 for growth and with a slight adjustment to 1:1800 for fruiting.

Also I have observed when adding KSi first while building a nutrient solution in a reservoir, then following with micro, bloom, and cal-mag; in that order, a minimal adjustment of pH was necessary. Without the addition of HPO3 the nutrient solution pH was stable @ 5.8 - 6.0 after combining the aforementioned stock fertilizers.

I have not utilized a reservoir in sometime or store bought nutrients for that matter but, I still maintain an identical mixing order with custom blended stock solutions from fertilizer salts in my injection systems with success in tap and R/o water sources.

As mentioned earlier
1- KSi (GrowMore Silo-Tec. 0-0-3 - 7.5Si) half the price of Pro-tekt.
2- NO3-, NH4+, Ca, Fe, Micro.
3- NH4, P, K,Mg, S
4- Acid