plz explain what for is this step?
Question about shatter???
- Thread starter sneaky101
- Start date
plz explain what for is this step?
If the level of solvent is less it makes it easier and quicker to filter and being more concentrated easier for fats, waxes etc to coagulate or clump together, easier on filtering once again and more efficient at gunk removal. This step of evapping down can be skipped, it just makes it easier and potentially cleaner. The freezing of the ethanol is to remove non-active gunk from product that is not soluble in freezing 190 proof and above ethanol while product is. To make a cleaner product. If you have reasonably pure cannabanoids, they shatter, full stop. They defy physics lol, like a liquid solid like glass..
Its been easier for patients though to have a non shatter but decarbed oil, in a small jar that they can scoop a matchhead size out and dissolve into hot herbal tea to consume. The shatter is a mission to work with for them.. On second thought, skip the syringes, bad idea, they gotta be prewarmed to get oil out and its still a mess.
Its been easier for patients though to have a non shatter but decarbed oil, in a small jar that they can scoop a matchhead size out and dissolve into hot herbal tea to consume. The shatter is a mission to work with for them.. On second thought, skip the syringes, bad idea, they gotta be prewarmed to get oil out and its still a mess.
Quite the contrary, less concentrated solution has a lower viscosity, better filtered, leaving a smaller loss on the filter.
Warming up for 45 or even 60 minutes at 90 degrees C provides a very partial and not complete decarboxylation.
Well there we have it haha... now how to do in my kitchen? What should the protocol be for a home decarboxylation ?
Regarding the filtering, I just meant easier to filter the gunks out as they clump together easier with less volume and more crash out if solution is saturated. I'd rinse the jar with eth after out with a bit of freezing ethanol and rinse the filter out with this, no loss on filter.. I dont like wasting so rinse rinse rinse haha.
The reason I'd have to evap down my ethanol is I prefer to use more ethanol to dissolve oil before carbon soaks to negate losses there with a very unsaturated solution..
If one has better methods, shoot, i'm all ears, this method just worked for me.
Also interested as to what you do for decarbs.. I've probably read it in your posts before but did stone the memory away, you've helped me out before but didn't even know it!
Regarding the filtering, I just meant easier to filter the gunks out as they clump together easier with less volume and more crash out if solution is saturated. I'd rinse the jar with eth after out with a bit of freezing ethanol and rinse the filter out with this, no loss on filter.. I dont like wasting so rinse rinse rinse haha.
The reason I'd have to evap down my ethanol is I prefer to use more ethanol to dissolve oil before carbon soaks to negate losses there with a very unsaturated solution..
If one has better methods, shoot, i'm all ears, this method just worked for me.
Also interested as to what you do for decarbs.. I've probably read it in your posts before but did stone the memory away, you've helped me out before but didn't even know it!
I'm sorry, but I do not know anything about your kitchen.
In my kitchen I have many times decarboxylated dry cake in the oven, before the final washout.
The extracted resin was decarboxylated only by way of experiment, not a regular basis.
Visual sign of this process is the allocation of carbon dioxide bubbles on the surface of the molten resin.
I believe that when the bubbles stop release, and the process is terminated.
Gray Wolf said that he regularly uses an oil bath for this purpose, but better to ask him about the details of his technology.
Better yet, do not be lazy to find these records and read.
I stick a beaker or stainless cup of the cannabis oil in a 121C/250F hot Canola oil bath and watch the bubbles.
After the larger and unequally sized solvent bubbles have exited, the small equally sized ones are mostly CO2 bubbles from decarboxylation.
If you keep them stirred and rising, so you can tell when you hit the 70% decarboxylation peak on Jumps graph, the bubbling will suddenly drop significantly off at that point.
If you want a more sedative 100% decarboxylation, wait until the bubbling stops.
The timing more or less follows the chart, but you can never know for sure exactly what state of decarboxylation your starting material is, so visual monitoring is far superior to just timing the event.
Thanks for the replies.. Didn't even have to use the search ! Cheers Grey Wolf..
I only attempt decarboxylation on cancer oil and for topical oil so will try do it properly next time I do a batch and will pass the message on.. If I preheat my oven to that temperature (120C) and use the warm pyrex I oiled into after purge, so no explosions, till bubbling of small uniform bubbles stops, it should be good?
And.. After carbon soaks, ethanol in freezer, filters, decarb, if it doesn't shatter you started with lawn clippings and not dope.. just to keep to the threads topic, sorry dudes for sidetrack..
I only attempt decarboxylation on cancer oil and for topical oil so will try do it properly next time I do a batch and will pass the message on.. If I preheat my oven to that temperature (120C) and use the warm pyrex I oiled into after purge, so no explosions, till bubbling of small uniform bubbles stops, it should be good?
And.. After carbon soaks, ethanol in freezer, filters, decarb, if it doesn't shatter you started with lawn clippings and not dope.. just to keep to the threads topic, sorry dudes for sidetrack..
