'How to find back all the spots? but without GPS.

[offthehook]

Hi Y'all.

For this year I got a couple of tens of thousends of auto seeds to play with and that are ment for sinsimilla in outdoors.

They ain't no breeders, so large quantity is where I will be going for.

With these seeds I also don't want to carry large amounts of home made soil to their spots, so just a liter of soil per spot to get them germinated should do.

The spots to be planted should follow an irregular pattern so it will go unnoticed by helicopters and ultra light aircraft.

I probably will do 50 seeds per 1liter of soil and then cull down to whatever looks best, and the number of spots to be made can go into the hundreds. (untill the engergy or mood to do so gives in)

On our poor soil in here I expect not more to get then some 5 gr per plant on average this way, but it is ment for sinsimilla so I would have to be certain to retrieve all the males.

The thing is that I plan on doing much to much to remember all of my spots by heart, so I was thinking to map their locations by means of coordinates in my noteblock.

Practically maybe not so much the k7 or b6 type of coordinates but more like coordinates that are using the x and y lines. (like a1,a2, a3, etc.
I reckon that "while in the field" only the lettered y-line is importend to walk up and down, allthough on the map I will also have to note their numbered x-line .( y-line as in a1,a2, a3, etc. up to 20 whereas every coordinate equals 1 mtr times 1 mtr.)

So in the field I could rectangularly plant 4 stakes in the ground that are some 20 times 10 meters apart.
These 4 stalks would then represent the outlines of my "sink the navy" field.(whereas the "ships" equal "my spots".)


What do you think of this methodical way of getting 100% certainty on retrieving all males?

Any other reasonable suggestions I'd rather like to hear too, but only oldschool and no high tec shit please, I even would not want to own a cell phone as a matter of fact, so thank you for your sugestions in advance. ^^

 

[billb]

gna be impossible to find all males by memory with that many plants. maps are also evidense against you. i would suggest olowering the plant count . especially that many per plot. would go with arnd 50 or so. thats spread out as well. also soil prep is key with terrible soil. 5g per plant man. thats alot of time for that amount and a heck of alot of work. hope you know what your gtn into. jus my opinion.

 

[offthehook]

I am no noob to say the least Billb.
I am mostly a breeder in the first place.
My best spots with tonnes of accumulated prime quality soil go into making top notch, high yielding, mold resistend autoflowers full of seed here on 65 lat.(Northern Scandinavia)

The seeds I plan to use for this side project are derived from plants that were not qualified to breed.(succeptible to mold, or too small)

Should not be that difficult to do> Drop 1 liter soil at irregular intervalls, saturate it with water, wait one day and put pregerminated seeds in it, cover with 5 cm hay and branches to weigh it down, up to the next.

The ground water levels in this clearcut are so high that I won't have to artificially water the plants.

Since I plan to work in a freshly clearcutted forest, I now got the idea to leave an "invisibly" marked track of upright standing pine branches going from spot to spot, like in Hansel & Gretel.

Any other "low tec" suggestions d'be apreciated still tho.

 

[niceeven]

Very interesting. See I am much of a visual being and your second description sits much better with me than the first one. In short, your map looks much too complicated for me bro. But, if it works for you right on!!! Obviously you know what you are doing yet please allow me to give you my two cents.

I love working in clear cuts too but I generally like to spread my eggs in between a few baskets if you know what I mean (several blocks). That way if a surveyor comes around I have a chance. I generally work the following way: around where I grow much of the dominant winds tend to be from the north-west. I want the plants to be exposed to the south-east so I look for remaining mature timber on the edges of cut blocks and try to time it so that the sun goes over the canopy after a certain time. Ideally I want 5 or 6 pm around mid mid summer. So if you are following me, that means I tend to work on the edges of clear cuts, that way It's much easier for me to find my patches and it provides both for some protection from the winds, that's useful in case of early frosts, and very early morning sun. Plants in the open tend to suffer more from early frosts. If I get a remote enough area there should be no risks of someone finding the "trap line" like trail.

Also, I don't know the ground you work with but if the water is so close to the surface it sounds like a perfect set up. However, you would be well advised to find "humps" natural "high spots", the soil you drop in would then serve as wicking material and you can maximise the amount of heat the plants will get in the spring.

Do an experiment: Walk in cut blocks in the spring with a digital thermometer at noon on a sunny day and take reading in different spots, you will be amazed to find there is a HUGE difference in temperature between high and lower spots, sometimes we are talking mere inches in difference. What I am trying to say is the higher the spot the sooner you plants will get going. As well, the more exposure above the water table the more the feeder roots will thrive.



But you have a very large number of plants there brother. You seem to be organized, it could work.

 

[billb]

what abt the bugs, and the fert? your still gna have to be there quiet a bit. thats all i was saying no need to get upset. wasnt implying you wwere a noob by any means. jus been doing outdoors for many many years. niceeven, great advice. very true i tend to use only high spots. where i live if ground water is like that. you tend to get root rot, depending on the weather that year.

 

[Browser]

Finding the spot back, after not being there for many weeks and the vegetation overgrown, can be difficult, let alone find the plants.

As suggested before I would reduce the number of plants per plot (to around 50 or less) so that you're certain you're removing any posible male. If aerial security is not a prob at yours, you could do patches of 10x5, keeping plants in a patern, (say from this tree to that tree) so that you know where you should be finding them.

If you're only planning on taking a little soil, I would use it to germ them in little pots at the site and then to mix it with the local soil.

In any case, it sounds like a nice project.

B

 

[niceeven]

Bugs and fert? Good point billb! (and thanks for the compliment)

I do realize that with autos one can spend less time worrying about shading times (they are just an attempt to speed up things a little, like one week or so) but I mentioned it anyhow because I really do think that neighbouring tree cover can come handy in early fall.

Bugs can be bad. I find a good spraying with neem can do wonder for bugs. But you know what? I would be even more worried about the wildlife. Although I don't know what the critter situation is like in Finland, (because at 65N lat in Europe I am thinking Finland). See around where I work (Can -West -Boreal -53N) we have a little conundrum: With early-mid September finish times obviously you want to plant as early as possible. Yet, say I have a very early spring and I could put the plants out by mid may, well I may want to wait some anyhow because it's always better to wait until the native vegetation has shot up a little. Otherwise your plants become prime food! The critters, and there are many of them, are quite hungry at that time! I find it's always better to wait until first week of June. Sound late and it is. Yet by then there is so much food around that the damages tend to be lesser. That's why high spots are critical. In early June at our lats there is so much light and so much heat that the plants can go crazy real fast. But put them out earlier, you also risk them getting border line going into shock because of a late frost and it does set you back tremendously. With autos, waiting for warmer weather should not set you back too much anyhow.

With that in mind, I don't know what the reforestation techniques are like in Scandinavia but here they sometimes use what they call mounding in the case of high water table. Each mound has a tree on it and not each tree survives. Catching my drift? I have been known to select empty mounds for bonus spots but with so many plants that could be hard.

Sounds like you are going to have an epic grow offthehook, make sure you keep us posted, I intend to have a thread too and it would be great to compare the two "northern grows" ( I know you may think that 53N is for the fainthearted compared to your midnight sun region but trust me 53N up here IS northern grow.

I look forwards to read your updates!!!

 

[offthehook]

what abt the bugs, and the fert? your still gna have to be there quiet a bit. thats all i was saying no need to get upset. wasnt implying you wwere a noob by any means. jus been doing outdoors for many many years. niceeven, great advice. very true i tend to use only high spots. where i live if ground water is like that. you tend to get root rot, depending on the weather that year.

I wasn't upset billb, just wanted to safe you from writing up stuff that I knew already but thanks for your concern.

The bugs and the fert, well, that's no issue cuzz I don't plan on fertillizing them and won't protect them from bugs.
It is just ment for personal stash cuzz I am fed up with having to remove the seeds from my (breeders) weed before I can smoke it.
I don't smoke much, probably 1/2 gram a day gets me going good.
Even with just 5 gr pp on average and a shit load of mold & buggs on them, I will still get enough to smoke for myself, friends, family and whoelse is always smoking off my pocket, lol
Ofcourse stuff that has got too heavily attacked will remain in the field.
But I know that when growing in large numbers, there will still be plenty of healthy smokeble plants left unless ofcourse the summer has got real wet and cold.

On wet grounds it is indeed better to grow on raised beds, but in this area the ground water level is about 60 cm underneath the surface of the soil and the clearcut has got plenty of ditches in them that takes care of surplus moist.
Again, thanks for your concern and trouble of mentioning it billb

 

[offthehook]

Finding the spot back, after not being there for many weeks and the vegetation overgrown, can be difficult, let alone find the plants.

Offthehook >This clearcut has been felled last automn, Next spring the only vegetation to arrive first will be my Diesel ryders,
Even after one year this clearcut will still not have managed to turn into an annual jungle.
But thanks for your concern Browser. Tho in clearcuts that are already token over by annuals, perrenials and shrubs I prefere to grow on the edge of south sided ditches for sake of clearence and drain.
With those I also give myself the trouble to dig in some plastic lining to keep their damn roots out of my home brought soil.

Browser>As suggested before I would reduce the number of plants per plot (to around 50 or less) so that you're certain you're removing any posible male.


Offthehook>I don't see no problem with too many plants per spot, but indeed the final spot count wil remain largely under 50 since I already will start with about 50 reg seeds per spot.
But it 's easy realy, after maximally 4 weeks ...well, everything that hasn't shown gender goes out, so only strongest and fastest females remain. Between 5 and 15 per spot probably.



Browser>If aerial security is not a prob at yours, you could do patches of 10x5, keeping plants in a patern, (say from this tree to that tree) so that you know where you should be finding them.

Offthehook>Well there is flight activity in my area tho no profi weed busters. More resque helicopters and leisure pilots with ultralight aircraft that are flying oft a bit too low to my taste.
Hence patterns & patches are not an option.
Moreover because this area seems to be stuffed full of religion nut jobs that hate cannabis.

In the clearcut ain't no trees left standing but I could pin some stakes in the ground if have too. As a matter of fact and what could be an option too is to stretch a temporary line between 2 poles and mark the line with tape at intervalls.

At every taped location I could then walk away from the line at a 90 degree angle, count my steps, make a spot and mark the number of steps on the tape that coincides with the spot.

(like red electricience tape for the left side of the rope and green for the right side of it.)


Probably I will try several technics simultaniously and decide later on wich one works best or proofs most prackticly.
But thus far I got mostly enthioust about the above written methode (of wich a friend made me aware) and the Hansel & Gretel methode with branches.

Browser>If you're only planning on taking a little soil, I would use it to germ them in little pots at the site and then to mix it with the local soil.

Offthehook>Thats not how I do things in here for several reasons, one of them beeing that the night temps will be way to low to get even germination rates. Germinating will have to happen indoors for 1.5 days only, but never on the spot!

Browser>In any case, it sounds like a nice project.

Offthehook, Hehe, Trying to give my b quality seeds some use is like doing charity to myself , a nice side project indeed, but know that my heart and soul is mostly in breeding.
In order to breed good quality auto's, one needs to tap from large quantities of harshly selected plants and that's where I am all about. Only difference this time is that I need to yank out ALL the males instead of only the 90% lesser ones.

Thanks for your imput Browser.

 

[offthehook]

Bugs and fert? Good point billb! (and thanks for the compliment)

Niceeven>I do realize that with autos one can spend less time worrying about shading times

Offthehook> Abso fucking lutely, lol.


Niceeven>(they are just an attempt to speed up things a little, like one week or so) but I mentioned it anyhow because I really do think that neighbouring tree cover can come handy in early fall.

Offthehook>Not with Auto's. They go out after the first week of may if all goes well, and will be harvested just before the end of august if they are good.
Those lousyest ones will be ready after 2 to 2.5 months already tho.

Niceeven>Bugs can be bad. I find a good spraying with neem can do wonder for bugs. But you know what? I would be even more worried about the wildlife. Although I don't know what the critter situation is like in Finland,

Offthehook>Wildlife in a freshly cut Finnish forest at lat 65 in early spring is aproximatly ZERO,lol

Niceeven>(because at 65N lat in Europe I am thinking Finland).

Offthehook>you were right

Niceeven>See around where I work (Can -West -Boreal -53N) we have a little conundrum: With early-mid September finish times obviously you want to plant as early as possible. Yet, say I have a very early spring and I could put the plants out by mid may, well I may want to wait some anyhow because it's always better to wait until the native vegetation has shot up a little.

Offthehook> not in here, end of august can already be frost so all has to happen between the first week of may and half to end of august. Humidity and temps will otherwise become to low to hope for a decent finnish.
Bugs are not an issue since frost can still be expected, birds can be nasty but for them I will cover the seeds with hay and branches to poke their heads through first.
Once with their heads above the hay the birds don't seem to find them that interesting anylonger. (But in area's with voles I'd rather place mice traps tho, but that won't be the case at this fresh clearcut.)

Niceeven>Otherwise your plants become prime food! The critters, and there are many of them, are quite hungry at that time!

Offthehook, prolly where you live but not in here still, they come later when the plants have already grown a bit.
I reckon my plants are about the first signs of life in here, hehe.

Niceeven>I find it's always better to wait until first week of June. Sound late and it is. Yet by then there is so much food around that the damages tend to be lesser. That's why high spots are critical. In early June at our lats there is so much light and so much heat that the plants can go crazy real fast. But put them out earlier, you also risk them getting border line going into shock because of a late frost and it does set you back tremendously.

Offthehook>Spring frost is no biggie, the plants will stay smaller allover just, but automn frost is a bitch.
There's nothing worse as low temps and high humidity. Buds can't grow then.

Niceeven>With autos, waiting for warmer weather should not set you back too much anyhow.

Offthehook>It significantly can since it will all come down to how the month of august will behave.

Niceeven>With that in mind, I don't know what the reforestation techniques are like in Scandinavia but here they sometimes use what they call mounding in the case of high water table. Each mound has a tree on it and not each tree survives. Catching my drift? I have been known to select empty mounds for bonus spots but with so many plants that could be hard.

Offthehook> I use to look for higher spots or make them myself overtime for my breederplants in soggy area's too indeed. But in Finland they have dug ditches everywere so our clearcuts happen to drain rather nicely.

Niceeven>Sounds like you are going to have an epic grow offthehook, make sure you keep us posted, I intend to have a thread too and it would be great to compare the two "northern grows" ( I know you may think that 53N is for the fainthearted compared to your midnight sun region but trust me 53N up here IS northern grow.

Offthehook> No I don't think 53N is for the fainthearted but surely things will be different, some for the worse, some for the better.

Niceeven>I look forwards to read your updates!!!

Offthehook> I will be at your service in the Finnish section here on icmag, I plan to participate in Finlands "outdoor 2012" on occasion, mostly trying to give tips and motivate noobs n'such.

Offthehook>He he, out of anticipated shame over the expected final results I prolly would not want to show you this sinsimilla attempt, but I do positively plan on showing off some of my breeders this year so hell yeah man!
Cannada VS Finland, How much more "epic" could it get aye ? hehe.
Ah well, maybe I will tell you the final weight of this sinsimilla crop VS imput of time and labour.
My bet is on that it will be real easy bud to produce when looking trough my glasses
Oh fuck I hate ice hocky btw Never cared much for who winns frankly. Glad You guys did, all the same wha? but now we 're talking WEED so lets put on the big boys panties ^^, lol

 

[offthehook]

Quote: In the clearcut ain't no trees left standing but I could pin some stakes in the ground if have too. As a matter of fact and what could be an option too is to stretch a temporary line between 2 poles and mark the line with tape at intervalls.

At every taped location I could then walk away from the line at a 90 degree angle, count my steps, make a spot and mark the number of steps on the tape that coincides with the spot.

(like red electricience tape for the left side of the rope and green for the right side of it.)

Probably I will try several technics simultaniously and decide later on wich one works best or proofs most prackticly.
But thus far I got mostly enthioust about the above written methode (of wich a friend made me aware) and the Hansel & Gretel methode with branches. End quote.


I am still open to suggestions that seem less complicated, faster or more practical tho.
Many people can think up more ways as I can do on my own, hence.

 

[pine boy]

Align the topography with something near in relation to somethig far and make a map.Three points are better than two.
You know, rock,tree, mountain.

 

[offthehook]

I'll keep that in mind when making the several mainplots pine boy, thanks for your input.

 

[supermanlives]

i grew up in the woods. i have gps but dont really ever need it. learn the land

 

[offthehook]

Not gonna pitch my tent next to them supermanlives. ^^