Need expert help. Problems in veg. Thank you.

[FarNorth]

Strain: white castle (ww+ice)

Age: 7 weeks

Medium: Perlite&Vermiculite 3:1, 5 liter bucket, "hempy-bucket"

Light: 250w HPS + 150w LED (3:1 red/blue) 40 cm distance. 24/0.

Fertilizer: GH tripack. diamond nectar (fulvic acid), epsom salts.

Feeding: every 2nd day, the ammount of medium.
flushed every second weeks. no misting.

Water: tap-water, 24h standing, ph.downed to 5.8
PPM: Raw-tapwater 80ppm, feeding at 300-400ppm.
Temperature: 26C

Runoff: ph. 5.9, ppm 250-300.
Co2: 2l bottle with yeast/sugar.


Symptoms: brittle leaves, clorosis started at middle or the plant level, begins at the tips of the leaves spread inwards, curls leaves slightly up. dead leaves give off a red-ish color. new leaves come out with clorosis.

I cant figure out if its a lockout, a N, and or K, defiecincy.
been trying all sorts of remedies, any help is greatly apreciated.
can a plant of this condition be salvaged?

Thank you!.

 

[sense of nature]

Over fert?

 

[High74]

yeah you're over feeding them. They are brunt to hell, Give them a mild nute salute and make sure ur ph is right and you should be good, Also check for bugs under the pot and also take the plant out of the pot if you can to look at the roots for moving bugs, never know until ya look. just my 2 cents

 

[JOE CHRONIC]

Strain: white castle (ww+ice)

Age: 7 weeks

Medium: Perlite&Vermiculite 3:1, 5 liter bucket, "hempy-bucket"

Light: 250w HPS + 150w LED (3:1 red/blue) 40 cm distance. 24/0.

Fertilizer: GH tripack. diamond nectar (fulvic acid), epsom salts.

Feeding: every 2nd day, the ammount of medium.
flushed every second weeks. no misting.

Water: tap-water, 24h standing, ph.downed to 5.8
PPM: Raw-tapwater 80ppm, feeding at 300-400ppm.
Temperature: 26C

Runoff: ph. 5.9, ppm 250-300.
Co2: 2l bottle with yeast/sugar.


Symptoms: brittle leaves, clorosis started at middle or the plant level, begins at the tips of the leaves spread inwards, curls leaves slightly up. dead leaves give off a red-ish color. new leaves come out with clorosis.

I cant figure out if its a lockout, a N, and or K, defiecincy.
been trying all sorts of remedies, any help is greatly apreciated.
can a plant of this condition be salvaged?

Thank you!.

Have you looked for mites ?

 

[00420]

Feeding: every 2nd day, the ammount of medium.
flushed every second weeks. no misting.

Water: tap-water, 24h standing, ph.downed to 5.8
PPM: Raw-tapwater 80ppm, feeding at 300-400ppm.
Temperature: 26C

Runoff: ph. 5.9, ppm 250-300

Try ph 6.2 (going in) also give us you food brake down (I'm guessing tripack =micro grow bloom)
70ppm tap is low but could be the issue depending content

 

[Hydro-Soil]

6.2 is too high for a hempy... unless you have some seriously out of whack nutes.


You have the GH tri-pack... just skip the grow and go with lucas.

Run 2 gallons of clean water through it, letting it drain out the hole. Then water with half strength nutes, then water the next time with full strength.

You're close enough to the lights, just way overfeeding them.

Stay Safe!

 

[00420]

6.2 is too high for a hempy... unless you have some seriously out of whack nut's [\quote]

When using the "grow" a higher ph balances out I ran it for years

That's why I asked for the brake down

 

[Hydro-Soil]

Like I said... the nutrient profile is whacked when you use all three.

You also won't need to flush every week or so like you need to with most profiles.

Think of it as a plate that never gets cleaned between feedings.... if you have too many beans on it for the plant to eat (too much nitrogen) it's going to get left over in the medium. After a week you're going to have a lot of beans on that plate that need dumped.

Lucas is balanced and the hempy bucket gives you the pH swing needed for full absorption of everything on that plate. Bump the pH to 6.2 with lucas and you'll run into "deficiencies"... the nutes are there, the pH is just wrong for the plant to easily absorb them.

Unless you're growing 10' trees... you don't need the 'Grow'.

Stay Safe!

 

[FarNorth]

Ty for replies.

 

[joe fresh]

hydro-soil is the only one who gave good info here...


and to be clear...what you are seeing here is a K def to the extreme...K is very mobile, so very rarely will you see the top new growth affected but in extreme def cases as pictured here, the new growth will be affected...


hope you dont mind im going to use a pic or 2 in my sick plant thread ...

 

[SeaMaiden]

I think perhaps the K may be being locked out by too much Mg, though I could be wrong. They do look burned, yet deficient at the same time, and I agree that it appears as though it's a K- occurring here. I don't see why you need the additional MgSO4 here.

Also, I've run pure perlite hempies, and they're really best run like straight hydro, IMO. If you're going to use RO or RO/DI water, add back Ca and Mg, if not, DON'T do it unless you see a real need. I *do* add in small amounts of Ca because I want to be sure it's laid down sufficiently and early on enough, it's an immobile element and crucial to healthy plant development. Mg is so easily corrected that I don't unless I see a need, and in those instances I may use MgSO4, or Sul-Po-Mag.

Also, being pretty much like straight hydro, I like to see the pH in a much lower range, the low-to-mid 5s, hitting a high of 5.8-5.9. In fact, I don't think that the importance of a ranging pH can be stressed enough when growing using chemical salt methods.