I allways seem to Bump into this problem down the road!! (skywalker og) in flower

[mrrangz]

I hope i did this correct!!

What STRAIN are you growing?
Skywalker Og (clone only)
What was the establishing technique? (Were the seed or clone?)
Clone
What is the age of your plants?
46 day flowering
What PHASE are the plants in? (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in?
Flowering
What Technique are you using?
?
What substrate/medium are you using?(Hydroton, RockWool etc.)
FFOF Soil
What is the Nutrient temperature?
?
What Nutrient's are you using?
Canna Flores and Generic Bulker (0-50-30)
What is the TDS/EC/PPM you are using?
1000-1200ppm
What is the pH of the "Tank"?
6.2-6.4
Are you sure your calibration is correct on your equiptment?
Yes
When was your last watering?
Yesterday
When was your last feeding change? (ie. grow-bloom-micro-additional)
?
What size bulb are you using?
1000hps
What is the distance to the canopy?
12 inches
What is your RH Factor?
53%
What is the canopy temperature?
61-65.3

*****************

hey guys i all ways seem to bump into this problem down the road.

As you can tell my leaves turn yellow and purple.(purple is new this time im guessing its the cold temps)

The plants still seem to be growing and getting fatter, but i just don't feel right about the leaves crisping up like that.

I flushed last week just in case there was a nute lockout.

I cant pin point the problem, im guessing i need calmag but(i use tap water).

Im guessing its a nitrogen deficiency problem but i feed at 3/4 strength (2-2-4).

My guessing aint taking me nowhere im hoping someone with previous experience can help me out with this.

Ive researched read and read, i also own Jorge Cervantes medical bible!!!!!! and still cant win this battle

btw the pic with the bud and cellphone is the best looking healthy plant (and i feed them all the same)

Thanks In Advance

 

[JAY LENWEED]

To me it looks as if you are overfertilizing or your nute mix is a little hot. Try mixing your nutes at 3/4 strenth, calcium defiencey isn't your problem. Hope this helps GOOD LUCK and Happy New Years !

 

[SeaMaiden]

Different strains react differently to the same things (environmental conditions, feeding regimen, looking at them sideways, whatever), so that's your first lesson.

Second, if those temps you gave for flowering are correct, it's pretty cool to get much good bud out of it. Been there, done that, warm those ladies UP. If the feed/water isn't at a temperature that the roots can use, the food you give can't be used. Yet it's being overfed to my eyes as well, so I agree on at least two counts with the fellow above. I personally would suggest that if you feel you *must* feed every time, then you need to switch to a feed that has far lower NPK numbers (I know, you can't go below 0), you want each at or below 10 if possible, or go with 1/4 strength as a starting point. Alternating feed with water is what I usually recommend all the way through when growing in soil, too. Keep the pH of soil feeds ranging from 6.2-6.8.

You have several issues, and they have to do with how the necessary building blocks are used by the plant. Reddened petioles = phosphorous deficiency OR toxicity. Necrotic spots leading to leaf tips dying back, to dead leaves, may be phosphorous OR potassium, telling which requires knowing where on the plant (upper new growth, middle growth, or oldest lower growth) the issues arise AND requires knowing some math/ratios. I see problems with both potassium and phosphorous, and adding more isn't a good idea here.

I'm not so good at math, but the numbers you listed give zero nitrogen (explains the lack of leaves lower down on the plant and the yellowing that's moving on up) and IMO too much P & K. Once those are out of whack they can be difficult to balance.

The curled up leaf margins may be due to pH issues, but the plant also looks COLD to me. Warm them up, don't use nutrients every time you water, in fact, start giving just water when it's needed and reassess after one week.

 

[RandyCalifornia]

drop the 0-50-30

 

[mrrangz]

hey guys (jay, sea, randy) thanks for the input

seamaiden do u suggest that for every feed i change my ph but stay within 6.2-6.8 range?

also seamaiden i do 1 feed nute and 1 feed straight water with some molasses. My last run with skywalker i didint have this
problem. this time i have a friend of mine that goes full strenght with his boost bloomer (0-50-30) I attached some pics
below of his grow altho his temps are ideal, mine aint.

I do have nitrogen in the nute mix added by my base nute (terra flores) NPK 2.1 - 1.7 -3.2.

RandyCalifornia,

do u mean stop feeding the 0-50-30 or just drop the dose?

also guys how would you guys recommend bumping up the feed for my next run? i was thinking of starting at 1/4 strenght and increasing 200 ppms every other feed.

Thank you

 

[SeaMaiden]

It's really important to remember that there are many variables between your grow and your friend's grow. I have experienced the same thing with fishkeeping, and so we land on general rules that pretty much anyone should be able to find success using.

In any event, I've based my recommendations on the appearance of your plant combined with the information provided. The appearance of your plant gives 'conflicting' information, it's saying it's overfed, but starved for some nutrients. Obviously, your friend's plants aren't having the same issues.

So, to answer your questions. First, yes, every feeding let it be a different pH. Second, if you're alternating feed-water-feed-water, and the plant is looking like this, it's still too much feed, or imbalanced, something is wrong because I still say that phosphorous is under-utilized. I say this because of the reddened petioles (the stems that attach leaves to the main branch), the necrosis that's starting on the tips and working backward, the mid-plant yellowing, the curling of the leaves.

However, it may also be related to potassium, again because of how these elements interact and I say this because of the presentation mid-plant. If it were all lower leaves ONLY, with nothing showing other than dark green leaves canoing or tacoing downward, burnt leaf tips, then I would say nitrogen is your only problem here.

Now you mention molasses, and you've given ppm readings. Did you know that you cannot accurately measure EC of organic molecules, which means that ppms/TDS cannot be accurately calculated, because those metrics are actually conversions of electrical conductivity as measured in microSiemens? In other words, if you're trying to measure ppm's when something like molasses is in the mix, it's gonna give you screwy readings. Molasses also alters the nutrient mix, AND, if you're running bennies it feeds bacteria (along with the plant, but that's another discussion) along with providing elements like iron, calcium, and sulfur.

First, you need to get things warmed up, ESPECIALLY the water and feed, it needs to be 65*F at minimum. Second, yes, let the pH range every feeding and watering. Third, drop the feed for now and just give water, one to two weeks.

I'm thinking that once you warm things up and get the pH ranging you'll see some improvements. However, what's necrotic won't come back, the best I think you can hope for right now is to get some bud fattening and thickening up, hopefully bring some density into it. I've grown a lot of my indoors in cool temps and it seriously fucks things up.

Hopefully this graphic and flow chart I'm attaching will help you. I like the leaf deficiencies graphic, except it's missing the Ca graphics.

 

[joe fresh]

sea maiden gave good info, and if cannopy is 61-65.3.....i can only immagine how cold the roots are

 

[mrrangz]

hey guys happy new years.

i grab my water from outside which i have stored inside a roughneck trash bin in direct sunlight. so my water is at a good temp never cold.

my leaves keep diying but my branches are bending do to the heavy bud growth.

i am lost. haha i bought a heater and the temp at night is under control.

ill post updates and i like the first chart maiden, gotta print that

 

[SeaMaiden]

Use them both, they're better used together along with a Mulder's or mineral relationship/reaction chart.