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is an bud candy and nirvana compatible with h202?

T

TREE KING

Okay I missed that. Then you should be trying to run as clean a rez as possible. Nirvana is full of kelp extracts...kelp is in the top 3 for making nasty shit in your rez (kelp, fish, & sugar) & interacts with the h202. In bud candy, you have Amino's which interact with the h202. Kelp and aminos ARE great for plants..specially kelp. By choosing hydro, there are some things you "dont" get to use that work exceptional in solid growing media.

*turns on "ShroomDr Sarcasm Key"* But AN said good to go to spend $80/gallon on each so I would assume that their formulas are advanced enough to suspend science and make up their own scientific laws.

If the thread keeps progressing as is, my conclusion would be:

1. You have received answers

2. You like circles

3. You need herpetology unguents to feel secure

Peace and good growing. Onward.

i dont like circles and i understand it might make your res a mess, thats not what im talking about thats a different subject entirely. im talking about can the plants take in the kelp the same and have the same affect on the plants when using it with h202? do the roots have a problem taking it in after h202 interacts with it or something? sorry if i wasnt clear before with my questions
 
your just being confusing now and i dont know what your trying to say. first you say its compatible and now your hinting toward it not being compatible because a.n just tells you anything you want to hear plus yeast is alive. im confused enough about this subject alone and all this hinting and being sarcastic isnt helping me

Okay bro, we are here to help! :comfort: No sarcasm - straight shot, take it like a man.

1) If you choose to outfit your garden with hydro...grow with salt based nutes (they are fucking organic too, but this is getting into what appear to be advanced science that should be basic, but 999 outta 1000 people dont/wont get this - this was shroom dr's point on uranium).

2. If you are gonna grow hydro, copy the best:
- A simple one part (Jacks Professional, Maxibloom, Ionic, Dynagrow) or lucas with two parts (hey you can even stick with AN here...AN micro & Bloom)
- salt based bloom booster for a few weeks (kool bloom powder = good)
-Some silica
-Ph adjustment to a Tee
- none of the other stuff is needed and starts an endless cycle of pH up/down/up/down/plants fucked up/buy more of this/buy more of that/flush it all outta the fucking plant/plant is in week 3 its fucked what do I do/buy more/ use more/ get poor/

3. If you are gonna grow organic, get a media that supports it and dive in headfirst

4. Dont use the AN products (or similar competing products) you have discussed in conjunction with h202, or even in hydro for that matter for best results, and economically beneficial results.

5. h202 is stronger than most people think considering how simple a chemical compound it is. It is fantastic for hydro, and I wouldnt even CONSIDER trying anything organic in hydro. I have considered it, tried it...fucking mess is what it is.
 
Fuck, I just typed all that to see that you dont even give a shit if the rez is messy...and if you growing hydro and that is your thought, then I guess I have done all I can. I dont know what you want...other than walking around the circle again. I hope you get solved what your issue is.
 
T

TREE KING

TheGreenReaper, i hear everything your saying and you are 100% correct about everything. what i was going to do was try out the additives and if it made everything a mess and i couldnt handle it then i would either stop using the h202 or cut out the additives. however the questions i just asked you are still being unanswered. i need answers to these specific questions alone so i can figure out my next step as to what im gonna try or do. and the questions are

can the plants take in the kelp the same and have the same affect on the plants when using it with h202? do the roots have a problem taking it in after h202 interacts with it or something? the h202 can still kill the pythium you know so thats what i was thinking

i understand everything else except this
 
I have neither performed or read of a side by side specific to your requirements. The short answer would be that I dont want to feed oxidized, aged, or chemically compromised nutrients to my plants. Whether it is from nutrients sitting in the sun, being 10 years old, or subjected to ozone or h202...I wouldnt want to give that to my plants. It is my opinion (all it is) that by putting the components discussed in the rez together, this is what you are doing - compromising the integrity of the components you are adding.
 
T

TREE KING

I have neither performed or read of a side by side specific to your requirements. The short answer would be that I dont want to feed oxidized, aged, or chemically compromised nutrients to my plants. Whether it is from nutrients sitting in the sun, being 10 years old, or subjected to ozone or h202...I wouldnt want to give that to my plants. It is my opinion (all it is) that by putting the components discussed in the rez together, this is what you are doing - compromising the integrity of the components you are adding.

thats the answer i was looking for TheGreenReaper. i really appreciate your help. i think once i switch to aeroponics im gonna just use a chiller instead of the h202 so i can add the products i want. i dont want a messy res anyway. take care!
 
T

TREE KING

im also curious, doesnt bleach/clorine do the same thing to the additives that h202 does? theres clorine in tap water so how are people able to use these additives without problems and plus killing beneficials? i know theres ro water but i dont think everyone that uses those additives uses ro water
 
If there is chlorine present in significant quantities, there will be no biological life.

Sidenote: "Living biological life" and "organic" are different things in their definition. In addition, organic compounds have differing levels of chemical stability. This of course effects their interaction with other things.

Organic growers tend to offgass their h20 if it is from a municipal supply to allow chlorine to evaporate, and use things like citric acid for pH down to negate some effects of chlorine. Offgasing is done by simply bubbling or agitating the water for 24-48 hours with an open lid. The quantities of chlorine in muni water are fairly small compared to the amount of h202 you add to your rez. In contrast to your comment about others not having problems...i see 9 out of 10 grows having problems and only running at 40-70% of capability/potential. So I guess i disagree and think this is an area people are getting wrong or don't understand.

For example...it is extensively published in the Ag community that myco's cant survive in a root environment exceeding something in the neighborhood of 40ppm of Phosphorous. How many growers do you hear talking about adding bomb diggity myco root innoculants AND decreasing or keeping P levels low in flower? Even worse, how many botanical nute companies are being honest about this? If they have the science for all the other shit they claim, they would have picked this up along the way. exactly...10 out of 10 arent. I dont know it all, and I guess that keeps me learning.

Forget what AN says, read a white paper on soil science and plant biology. Cannabis isn't from space (well, maybe)...its a plant. So it works like a plant. The fastest way to get free from all that unnecessary shit, is to understand plant biology. Then it doesnt matter what they say or write...you will know what the plant needs.

Funny, I have been an organic freak for years - not PBP kinda organic, but all the raw amendments and teas kinda organic. I am back to 100% coco, drip fed, Maxibloom, silica, h202 and humic 12, 1 week flush w/ h20, catalyst & humic 12, final week h20 only. Patients either cant tell or think the meds are better - cleaner. I agree.

Glad we finally talked through your issue and now you can move forward! Keep us posted as to how things are doing. If you end up running any of that together, post some results, some one will appreciate it.
 
T

TREE KING

very good info. just to get this straight Green Reaper are you recommending to not run these products with tap water or do you think it wont be that big of a deal?
 
by "these products" I guess you mean the AN products we are discussing?

I use tap. If I used those products, they would be used with tap in a solid media (not hydro) supporting biological life. I used tap in all of my organic grows. I can only comment on my setup-the inputs at every location are different.
 
T

TREE KING

by "these products" I guess you mean the AN products we are discussing?

I use tap. If I used those products, they would be used with tap in a solid media (not hydro) supporting biological life. I used tap in all of my organic grows. I can only comment on my setup-the inputs at every location are different.

ok i gotcha thanks. something else i gotta figure out i guess lol.
 
K

Kitsym

if you are investing in AN i would go the extra one step further and get an RO filter. AN nutes are designed to work with RO....
 
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