my nutrient formula -whats yours?

[Jabapc]

I understand the reason behind K.I.S.S. but dont you believe theres a little more to be gained by adding somethings.
starting with a fresh cut clone I use 1/4 tsp{all measurements per gallon} G.H. Grow Micro Bloom 5 ml aquashield{ just recently trying the new Rapid Start also from G.H. but cant say anything about it yet. I clone using Rapid Rooters in a Bubbler plenty of roots in 10 to 14 days to be planted into 6 in Net Pots. nutes bumped first week up to 5 Grow 5 Bloom 5 Micro 5 ml Aquashield 5 ml Diamond Nectar .
second week of grow 4ml Grow 6 ml Micro 8 Ml Bloom 5 ml Aquashield 5 ml Diamond Nectar .
plants are vegged for two weeks now about 14 inches tall and switched to 12/12
nutes are kept at this level for two weeks then 5 ml Bud Candy soon to be replaced by G.H Sugar Cane and 5ml Liquid Kool Bloom added to the mix
Plants finish at about 40 inches tall last grow was 5 plants 400 watt H.P.S. netted 350 grams
I know this may sound like alot of addatives but what I use has proven it works over a long time {except the Bud Candy this was new but it did seem to add weight so I'm trying again till its out then G.H. Cane Sugar

 

[Homebrewer]

I understand the reason behind K.I.S.S. but dont you believe theres a little more to be gained by adding somethings.

There is exactly 'a little more' to be gained by using non-NPK additives. Whether 'a little more' warrants their high price tag is up to the grower to decide.

 

[NeWcS]

Here is mine;

 

[Hydro-Soil]

Diamond nectar tastes like crap. Sickly sweet yuckko that isn't cannabis. Please don't use that... or use only tiny amounts, a couple weeks before harvest.

I understand the reason behind K.I.S.S. but dont you believe theres a little more to be gained by adding somethings.

Yeah... after the temps, CO2, RH, Lighting, medium and grow style are dialed in. Would be nice to see someone post something like the following....

"Hey... I have a perfectly dialed in room with strain X that I've increasingly produced higher yields each crop until the last three crops. My lights are good, feed is the same and I've hit the same approximate weight each harvest for the last 3. I added Xml of product Y at day Z and increased my yields by 15% while increasing trichome production, smell and taste."

Until I see a few reports on a product that mirror that one... I'm not buying it for a second. Spend your time setting up the perfect environment for your ladies... they'll reward you more handsomely for much longer than a lil bottle of snake oil will.

Lucas formula with possibly a SPARING application of a bloom booster at the appropriate times. GH Flora Bloom is a good bloom booster by itself.

Stay Safe!

 

[YosemiteSam]

here is mine

1.0 mkp
0.5 kno3
2.6 cano3
2.4 mgso4
0.1 micro

125, 60, 126, 125, 60, 79 elemental N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S

Cost me like 5 cents a gallon. I simply boost K after stretch and I will take the Pepsi challenge with any hydro companies formula...including those cocksuckers at AN

 

[Homebrewer]

Yeah... after the temps, CO2, RH, Lighting, medium and grow style are dialed in. Would be nice to see someone post something like the following....

I did this on another forum. I documented different nutrient brands growing the same cloned strains that I've been running for years in my E&F system. I've also experimented with different additives side-by-side (not documented on forums) like the OP is talking about. Much of the endorsement of different products comes from the user 'seeing what they want to see'.

 

[YosemiteSam]

the placebo effect seems to work on stoners very, very well.

 

[Hydro-Soil]

I did this on another forum. I documented different nutrient brands growing the same cloned strains that I've been running for years in my E&F system. I've also experimented with different additives side-by-side (not documented on forums) like the OP is talking about. Much of the endorsement of different products comes from the user 'seeing what they want to see'.

And +1 on placebo effect. LOL

Stay Safe!

 

[Jabapc]

I would guess that Diamond Nectar tasting like crap is just your opinion I've never heard it from anyone else its never hurt the taste as far as I can tell and I starting smoking pot in 1967 {yeah I'm 60}and as far as my setup this had nothing to do with it so here
6x6 room 465 cfm squirrel cage exhaust fan blowing thru carbon filter, 12 in oscilating fan blowing over the top of 5 plants grown D.W.C. 3 plants in one rubber maid tub plants in one slightly smaller .
Eco 4 air pump two lines into each tub eco plus large round airstones.
ph is kept at 6 drifts slightly up and down as nutes are used and top offs are added.
just water is added nutes changed weekly
I cant tell you exactly how much any one thing has changed my grows all I can tell you what works for me
I started using Aquashield when I had Pythium, never had it again{temps about 65 to 70 in res} about 75 in grow room. never had a prob with it again, its been over 7 years.
I started using Diamond Nectar when I heard good things about Humic acids and I use less nutes than before{ never could tell any difference in taste I guess I'm just not a Connoisseur ,hope I spelled that right dont want to piss of the experts}been using it about 5 years.
this was my first grow with the Bud Candy and I cant prove anything but I noticed the diff
so I'll use it again if thats ok with the powers to be around here.
my first grows were back in the 70s in 5 gallon buckets with potting soil and foiler fed plants, then kids and no growing for years started again growing this time hydro about 10 years ago when I hurt my back so once again all I can tell you is what works for me.

 

[Jabapc]

and before anyone says they didn't make Aquashield for that long, it was called Hydroguard back then

 

[Veg N Out]

here is mine

1.0 mkp
0.5 kno3
2.6 cano3
2.4 mgso4
0.1 micro

125, 60, 126, 125, 60, 79 elemental N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S

Cost me like 5 cents a gallon. I simply boost K after stretch and I will take the Pepsi challenge with any hydro companies formula...including those cocksuckers at AN

So how do you increase the K? Do you increase the MKP or introduce something else? Are you still using this formula? How about the micros? Did you end up liking the ones from BioAg? Back to the STEM? Putting them together yourself ? Sorry for all the questions just getting ready to try this for myself.

 

[FunkBomb]

I used to use a lot of liquid fertilizers. Now I just use good compost. It's great.

-Funk

 

[TribalSeeds]

and before anyone says they didn't make Aquashield for that long, it was called Hydroguard back then

Whatever you call it, its the shit!

 

[farmdalefurr]

Veg: Ionic Grow, Humboldt Flavorful, G.O. CaMg, Bio-Root, Sub-Culture B

Flower: Maxibloom, liquid/dry Koolbloom, Floralicious +

 

[Hydro-Soil]

I would guess that Diamond Nectar tasting like crap is just your opinion I've never heard it from anyone else its never hurt the taste as far as I can tell and I starting smoking pot in 1967

Well... an informed opinion, yes. VERY well informed, with a highly sensitive palate on top of it.

Have you spent time in several states, medical and non, sampling wares from over a thousand different growers... AND spent the last almost 5 years chasing the ultimate clean growing methods?

Doubtful.

Have I run into shitloads of old 'experienced' tokers that wouldn't know primo bud from so-so, unhealthy bud?? Yes. Their intentions are good, their experience is extremely limited. :edit: 25 years of toking and a rude awakening after moving to So-Cal on quality differences. I am *shocked* at how poor the quality of the bud was that I was 'enjoying' on a regular basis back then. Disgusting.

It tastes like NON-cannabis... therefore it's an adulterant/contaminant. Thank you, VERY much.

Stay Safe!

 

[Nader]

I went rather elaborate with my current grow. Hell, if you just used the insect frass, rock dust, and compost, and only ever used plain water, you'll still have beautiful results. I wanted to push it, though.

'dry' ingredients: OMRI Fish compost, Organic Insect Frass (cup per gallon of substrate), EWC, gaia glacial rock dust, food grade green montmorillonite powder, organic vine ripened banana powder, tbsp of gaia high-p bat guano, pinch of coral calcium powder

Liquid flowering nutes (I feed the soil a nice weak liquid mix every 7-10 days):

AN Iguana Bloom with a bit of H2, F1, Voodoo Juice and Bud Factor X
BioBizz Bioheaven
Hygrozyme
Humboldt Nutrients Mayan Microzyme (aerated teas and whatnot)
General Organics BioMarine
Green Planet Massive and General Organics BioBud, switching each time
Green Planet Finisher

I also used CannaBioGen's Delta Nueve as a foliar once or twice, and drenched in the soil for the first 12 hour dark period. One foliar application of the extract of fermented wild nettles, wild yarrow, and wild g. pentaphyllum. A few foliar applications of thermal spring water. Also one application of L-Carnosine and BlueWaterAlchemy's Gaia's Harvest to the soil for happy germs, worms and everything in between.

 

[BudgetBud]

Sounds like a good starting point.
I use g.h. 3.3.2 ml/L micro.grow.bloom. ratio for vegging and cloning, diluted to desired e.c, 0.3 e.c. clones 0.5 e.c. for established plants. All in coco.
I'd like to add some potasium silicate and a source of humates, g.h. has many, but they all look very dilute or of poor quality.

 

[avant gardener]

straight lucas,
little bit of cal-mag as needed,
shot of dry koolbloom, 4 weeks and 2 weeks before chopping,
Dutch Master Zone (glorified pool shock) keeps the res sterile.

easy peasy japanesey.

 

[Jabapc]

Hydro Soil
your my hero but once again your opinion is just one opinion
thank you very much

 

[Midnight]

This is called the useless formula. It uses the GH 3 part.


OK, I figured I would post this here, since some folks are asking about the GH 3 part.
This is my feed schedule -

Here is the nutrient regimen I use and how I control PH with little or no ph up or down...

So OK - feeding schedule week by week. This is the GH weekly feeding program, slightly tweaked. I will only call out the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example - 5-2.5-2.5-400/800 would mean 5 ml grow, 2.5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it's per gallon. You Euro's can easily convert to liters. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted that I use the hardwater micro due to my tapwater. I suggest using the hardwater micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.
Veg -
week 1 5-2.5-2.5-400/600
week 2 10-5-3- 600/800
week 3 12-6-3 800/1000 (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)

Bloom
week 1 6-6-10- 800/1200
week 2 3-7-12 - 1000/1400
week 3 3-8-14 - 1000/1400
week 4 3-8-16 - 1000/1400
week 5 (discussed in detail below*)
week 6 0-7-20 - 1000/1400
week 7 0-6-20 (see below**)
* During week 5 if not using a booster like Superbud, Bushmaster Kabloom etc. run 2.5-7-18. I use MOAB (Mother of All Blooms) or BushMaster at 50% of recommended strength, and use 1.25-3.5-9 for the fert base.
**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. I should note that if I use ferts for a few days in week 7, I take the plants over the 8 week mark. Personally I flush for a min of 14 days. But 10 is bare minimum imo/ime.

The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it.

At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0
I will add epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won't use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower.

Now- how to control your PH...
There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it's too strong, your PH drops. If it's too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that the formula above is say, a little strong, and say you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it's a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?
The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.
I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (Thats crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.
Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to.
Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8.

If you are still having PH issues using the above method, an alternative is to PH adjust the plain water to 5.5 BEFORE you add nutes.