High yield formula.. Gh
- Thread starter OSBC
- Start date
the_extremist
Member
Here is the elemental ppm breakdown according to Cannastats:
5ml Grow
-N---P----K---Mg-Ca
30---6---75---8---0
25ml Micro
-N----P---K---Mg--Ca
405--0--67.5--0--405
30ml Bloom
--N---P----K-----Mg-Ca--S
--0--198--303--138--0--90
Total:
-N-----P-----K------Mg---Ca---S
435--204--445.5--146--405--90
Seems insanely high across the board. Great formula for burning the shit out of your plants. Somewhere around 1/3 strength seems like it would work out okay.
5ml Grow
-N---P----K---Mg-Ca
30---6---75---8---0
25ml Micro
-N----P---K---Mg--Ca
405--0--67.5--0--405
30ml Bloom
--N---P----K-----Mg-Ca--S
--0--198--303--138--0--90
Total:
-N-----P-----K------Mg---Ca---S
435--204--445.5--146--405--90
Seems insanely high across the board. Great formula for burning the shit out of your plants. Somewhere around 1/3 strength seems like it would work out okay.
the_extremist
Member
Amended organic soil, not bottled nutrient at the moment. Never used GH before tbh, used Botanicare PBP when in soilless, ripened with PBP Soil @ 800 or so ppm. Then straight R/O for the last two weeks to fade out nice and pretty.
I also use pbp and pbp soil, w liq karma and sweet orig.. In soilless mix. I used the ratios on the feed charts by botanicare. Also ran pbp Gro and bloom in nft hydro.it does well, how did you use it ratios,supplements ect..Gh seems to out yield pbp w same additives tho.
Thanks for the cannastats ref! Very interesting, checking all the different gh formulas I run.
Do u use any bloom boosters? I'm running a experiment this run w 3 dif ratios of gh flora series in the same room same purple d plants to see what I like best.. I'd like to post pics maybe do a Gro log.. But I don't kno how to upload photos! Maybe u could explain? Would b much appreciated!
Thanks for the cannastats ref! Very interesting, checking all the different gh formulas I run.
Do u use any bloom boosters? I'm running a experiment this run w 3 dif ratios of gh flora series in the same room same purple d plants to see what I like best.. I'd like to post pics maybe do a Gro log.. But I don't kno how to upload photos! Maybe u could explain? Would b much appreciated!
the_extremist
Member
Your nutrients are gonna be secondary to good genetics and a dialed environment when it comes to yield. If it seems your switch to GH resulted in larger yield, double check everything you're doing. You may have done something different. I'm skeptical of any claims of increased yield solely from changing the nutrient regime. Hell, you may have just gotten better at growing since you used Botanicare.
When using PBP, I used 5ml CalMag+ and then mixed PBP Soil to around 950ppm for peak bloom. Then during ripening I cut the CalMag and just ran the PBP. Then straight R/O water for the last two-three weeks depending on the cut. Tried Hydroplex for one run, didn't see hardly any difference except the buds didn't burn as well from the extra P. All in all, I like Botanicare. Worked well for me.
Now I'm growing in organic soil and I have to admit, just throwing water on them and watching them grow is super easy, mixing soil is not and it kills me because I have serious back problems. So I'm switching to coco coir with drippers this spring when I finally run out of soil. Will probably use Botanicare again, had great results with their stuff.
When using PBP, I used 5ml CalMag+ and then mixed PBP Soil to around 950ppm for peak bloom. Then during ripening I cut the CalMag and just ran the PBP. Then straight R/O water for the last two-three weeks depending on the cut. Tried Hydroplex for one run, didn't see hardly any difference except the buds didn't burn as well from the extra P. All in all, I like Botanicare. Worked well for me.
Now I'm growing in organic soil and I have to admit, just throwing water on them and watching them grow is super easy, mixing soil is not and it kills me because I have serious back problems. So I'm switching to coco coir with drippers this spring when I finally run out of soil. Will probably use Botanicare again, had great results with their stuff.
I use it in peat moss, coco, hempy, etc.. 5 micro 5 grow and 7 bloom works in anything.
if using peat moss or oceanforest (or something simliar), you mite want to water with half strength every other watering. (you dont need nutrients at all for the first 3 weeks or so with ocean forest)
R
rick shaw
Off topic: People are showing that you can re-use organic soil again and again without tilling it (breaking it up). Just cut a hole for a new plant, replant, and re-amend by top dressing (if necessary). This has been done successfully in beds, totes, and smaller nursery pots. Re-using you soil in this way would save your back and some expense. It is probably worth trying on a few pots.
Pine
so you see no benefits over tilling the soil and not adding anything? it seems odd to me...no offense, i mean in a way it makes sense because as a soil reuser and bed grower i have been seeing a lot of discrepancies between common marijuana growing ideas and what might actually be the truth, it seems to me that the black market has blanketed this whole industry in a lot of wives tales, misinformation, and plain ol' lies... the quest for profit means people are reluctant to experiment with new ideas that may end up costing them thousands of dollars...vs any normal legal plant-crop where millions of acres are grown for experimentation and breeding...unless you have tons of pictures, side by sides and make a very real change in yeild, most people seem more than happy to just brush aside almost all new grow discoveries and ideas, for their normal, safe way of growing that they know how to do.
your no-till method seems odd to me because when growing outdoors, even farmers of legal crops... people always seem to recommend tilling the soil, they say it will make a big difference...all farmers seem to do it...they even make machines to aerate soil that's so compact grass doesn't grow well on it...so i wonder if it wouldn't be better to flip the soil a bit, even if you don't take any roots out or add anything new? just to keep it from getting more compact? i mean i'm not saying your way is wrong, i'm just haven't heard of it yet so i'm curious...i'm switching to tlo in the next run or two and this interests me, because it's really a pain to get my beds in and out of my cab, since they are almost as big as the door openings.
i know in nature nobody comes along to till the soil and nature does just fine on its own, as long as nobody walks on the soil to compress it...so i guess as long as you don't compress the soil much and use a fluffy soil with peat or pearlite or something it maybe doesn't compress much over time? how many times would you put a run through it before you finally do till or re-amend?
For the way that I grow there is an advantage in not tilling. No-till isn't my idea. It is a common practice in natural and organic farming. In part because of Roundup resistant crops, it is also starting to be used in conventional farming. The advantage of no-till is reduced use of water, fertilizers, labor, and, in our type of growing, soil or growing medium. These advantage accrue because no-till farming keeps the soil's natural ecosystem intact. Some video links if you are interested (there is a lot of info on no-till practices if you look)
One Straw Revolution - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSKSxLHMv9k
Conventional farmer doing no-till - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yACjjsT6vc
Tilling leads to soil that is less compact initially, but once gets rained on, stepped on, or watered it compacts. Soil that isn't tilled (and is heavily mulched) doesn't get compacted because the rain or water doesn't have an opportunity to compact it (the mulch) and because it has a larger and more active population of organisms which keep the soil from compacting by digging holes (worms and other critters) and creating natural soil aggregates (think perlite like stuff formed by bacteria and fungi).
I'm going to re-use my medium indefinitely without tilling. I'm currently on my third no-till cycle (same mix untilled since February 2011). I add more mulch (fall leafs, dead fall, bubble hash leavings, stems and stalks from prior crops, carrot tops, left over salad greens, and comfrey which I grow to use as mulch) when convenient and needed. If I need to re-amend I do so by top dressing.
One of the things indoor no-till growers have discovered is that in a well functioning ecosystem you don't need to add that much back at the end of a cycle. The stuff you mulch with is in a continuous process of being broken down by bacteria and fungi. These fungi and bacteria are a food source for other micro organisms (protazoa and worms) which crap and fertilize you plants.
Pine
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