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Advice to maximize my micro potential

Keif

Member
Hey everyone!

It has been a few months because I had to move but now that I am settled in, the micro has to get running again!

Just a quick overview-

What I use:
125w CFL for veg
250w CFL for flower
FF Ocean Forest
FF Full line of nutes
Molasses
Temps: 75-90* depending on Veg-Flower/ time of year

Cab:
2 exhaust fans
massive passive intake
adjustable light
stealthy ;)

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Last round:
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Basically:
The last grow I only yielded about 1.5 ounces from 5 plants. I have some new genetics coming (GN C99, Cannacopia Deep Chunkolate) and I want to try to maximize my yield for this small space. I have heard of people pulling these numbers from a much smaller PC case and just 1 plant..

This is only my 6th grow indoors so I am still learning how to adapt for sure. It took me a few just to get my nutes down to a T.

Should I be looking to run 2 larger plants in here or the SOG style I used before? I have read all of DRBUDGREENGENES thread on SOG and that seems appealing but I am not sure how practical that would be since I do not have a clone chamber or anything like that.

What do you guys think? I want to stick with SOIL not HYRDO. I was thinking maybe lower profile pots so they have more room to stretch?

Anything would help, I really appreciate it.

Thanks
 
How much vertical height do you have between the tops of your containers and the bottom of your light? When its at its highest point of course, I ask this to simulate where it would be located towards the end of flowering when your plants are at their tallest.

In my grow I have the same wattage as you do for flowering(~250w) and I use the Dr.Bud style SOG growing method with hempy bucket style solo cups. Each of my solo cups nets me about ~15grams dried when doing this method. If you can get some sort of small veg/clone chamber going you might want to reconsider that style of growing, it works really well for lots of us.
 

Keif

Member
Just for starters...Either Reflectix or white paint on the interior of the cab.

I am using Mylar.

How much vertical height do you have between the tops of your containers and the bottom of your light? When its at its highest point of course, I ask this to simulate where it would be located towards the end of flowering when your plants are at their tallest.

In my grow I have the same wattage as you do for flowering(~250w) and I use the Dr.Bud style SOG growing method with hempy bucket style solo cups. Each of my solo cups nets me about ~15grams dried when doing this method. If you can get some sort of small veg/clone chamber going you might want to reconsider that style of growing, it works really well for lots of us.

I would say around 17". I was thinking of Solo cups.. Maybe I can set up a small veg / clone area in my closet. I will have to check out the hempy buckets.

have you thought about scrog-ing at the same time as well?

I have not tried scrOG, just lots of LST and topping in the past. If I do scrOG maybe I will have to run 1 or two plants..

Thanks for all of your help everyone.
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
2 exhaust fans...

Let's say they're 4" fans. The area of airflow for each fan is 12.56 square inches. That means you have roughly 26 square inches of exhaust. The 2x rule says you need to approximate 52 sq inches of passive intake.

If those intake holes are 1/2", the area of air flow is less than .2 square inches each. That means you'd need 265 holes to approximate 52 square inches of air flow.

2x passive really makes a difference in temps.
 

hazydreams

Active member
can you give me the dimensions of your cab. That would be helpful to determine the max yeild for it.

If you were to do hempy buckets i would assume that 50g a square foot is very possible in a dialed environment.
 

Keif

Member
2 exhaust fans...

Let's say they're 4" fans. The area of airflow for each fan is 12.56 square inches. That means you have roughly 26 square inches of exhaust. The 2x rule says you need to approximate 52 sq inches of passive intake.

If those intake holes are 1/2", the area of air flow is less than .2 square inches each. That means you'd need 265 holes to approximate 52 square inches of air flow.

2x passive really makes a difference in temps.

You cant see the revised version in those pics, but i cut out a very large whole which takes up the entire bottom of the cab. Those first pics were from an older design before I got my temps dialed in. Thanks for your input though, I really appreciate the help!

can you give me the dimensions of your cab. That would be helpful to determine the max yeild for it.

If you were to do hempy buckets i would assume that 50g a square foot is very possible in a dialed environment.

I was just reading hempy buckets, I noticed some people JUST using perlite?

17-24" H (it is 31 inches but the light/bottom intake area take up space I would say 17" of grow space for the height) x 12.0 " W x 24.0 " L

Thanks man!


I love topping and follow that guide religiously when I first started, thanks for the hint man!
 

Jellyfish

Invertebrata Inebriata
Veteran
You didn't specify what size/number of bulbs you were using to achieve 250 watts of CFL's for flowering, but using smaller bulbs/more bulbs, you can keep your cab cooler. The CFL Club! thread is a great resource.
 

GrowBox420

Member
If I were you I would think about less plants. If you did one or two you would be able to get a larger root system which would allow for more growth to be supported. Like some of these other people said LST and Super Cropping could help with the overall outcome.

Nice to see you back in action will be keeping an eye on the grow
 

big twinn

Super Member
Veteran
LST the hell out of your plants and allow them to veg out, they can become super bushes! Or grow perpetually using many clones in small 20 oz bottles, stagger it so you harvest every 3 weeks, that also would maximize resources. add black strap molasses, and use organics all the way through, can't go wrong. I'd also suggesting mycohorrizae microbiotic organisms on the roots. nutrients become more available and as a result nutrient uptake allows for much more rapid and vigorous growth!
 

Keif

Member
You didn't specify what size/number of bulbs you were using to achieve 250 watts of CFL's for flowering, but using smaller bulbs/more bulbs, you can keep your cab cooler. The CFL Club! thread is a great resource.

Hey man, I am using 1- 250w for flower and 1- 125w for veg.

If I were you I would think about less plants. If you did one or two you would be able to get a larger root system which would allow for more growth to be supported. Like some of these other people said LST and Super Cropping could help with the overall outcome.

Nice to see you back in action will be keeping an eye on the grow

Yeah this is what I may do, with a scrOG.

There was also this YIELD INCREASING TECHNIQUE posted by Silverback (RIP) I don't know why it doesn't get more attention.

This is good, thanks a lot!

LST the hell out of your plants and allow them to veg out, they can become super bushes! Or grow perpetually using many clones in small 20 oz bottles, stagger it so you harvest every 3 weeks, that also would maximize resources. add black strap molasses, and use organics all the way through, can't go wrong. I'd also suggesting mycohorrizae microbiotic organisms on the roots. nutrients become more available and as a result nutrient uptake allows for much more rapid and vigorous growth!

Awesome I am going to read about the micro organisms.


So basically what I am debating on now is SOG or SCROG with less plants..

I just got-
CCP Deep Chunkolate and Resin Bomb, TOM's Deep Chunk x Haze F2 and GNC C99 f2 plus a bunch of Hash Berry, Bubbalicious and Blue Berry ones that I am popping now!

This should be a fun round!
 

big twinn

Super Member
Veteran
Scrog will give you a larger harvest per plant, but you will also have to veg the plant out a lot longer. If you only want to have a few harvests with a few different strains, scrog would be the way to go. With SOG you can pack a lot more plants in that area, eliminating veg times. by staggering your plants by 3 weeks (or however long youd like) you can harvest every 3 weeks, this means a smaller harvest compared to scrog, but WAY more harvests per season....in the long run, SOG will give you much more cannabis to smoke. Depends if you want to clone and harvest this frequently.
Im debating whether or not i should grow a few trees, or if i should pack in a shit ton of clones and just stagger it to harvest every month. of course trees will yield more per plant, but i prob. would only be able to get 2-3 harvests a year. by going perpetual, I will be able to utilize more strains in my harvests, much more frequently without having to veg for 3 months.
 

big twinn

Super Member
Veteran
with a small space, i say go perpetual SOG, but its up to you. higher plant count may not be what your looking for.
 

Keif

Member
Yeah that is a good call.

Looks like I will be doing Hempy Buckets (solo cups) and then probably setting up a smaller veg/clone room since I grow from seed and I do not want them to flower right away.

Do you recommend LST if I am only using solo cups? I can just see that making the cab very messy with different plants laying into one another.

I am going to do some more reading. Thanks everyone.
 

geeker

Member
you can list with a solo cup. all you need is a twist tie (or more) and some tape.
 

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with a small space, i say go perpetual SOG, but its up to you. higher plant count may not be what your looking for.

I like the way you think. Is there a thread that provides more in-depth detail on properly setting up a perpetual cycle? Or do you have any additional tips about it? I may do a hempy SOG for my next run as well so I'll be keeping a close eye on your progress Keif. I may be doing the same exact thing :tiphat: pretty excited to see how things turn out.
 

Keif

Member
Got my beans last night! Going to start germ tonight. Doing a SOG with flowering at 3-4" in hempy solo cups!

I will keep everyone updated.

Cannacopia-
Deep Chunkolate
Resin Bomb

GN-
C99 F2's

Tom Hill-
Deep Chunk X Haze F2

AnnaC-
Columbia F2's
 
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