Yellowing in Happy Frog Soil.. Flora Nova Nutes

[Blaze215]

Hi Folks,

I am having an issue with my girls and would appreciate your assistance in diagnosing the problem.

Strain: GDP
Medium: Happy Frog Soil
Nutes: Flora Nova (switched over from a different line that I
was not happy with)

Pro-Tekt
Cal Mag supplement

Temps: 75-78 degrees
humidity: 40%-45%

I water when I see my leaves get a little droopy. Any thoughts??

 

[bobman]

just a low level leaf that has full filled its purpose? how is the rest of the plant?

 

[SeaMaiden]

That RH will cause slight turning in, aka canoeing of the leaves. I agree at this point with bobman, it looks like it's being used up, assuming the plant is growing. If it's not really growing, then seeing more of the plant will help.

Which Floranova product are you using, and at what rate(s)? I've used Floranova Bloom to great ease and success, but have to start at very low rates.

 

[cyat]

maybe slight lockout from overfeeding, or root aphid damage?
why cal mag, r u usin r.o water?
do you alternate with plain water/and nutes?

 

[xxBog_Veteran]

just a low level leaf that has full filled its purpose? how is the rest of the plant?

Agreed, everything up past that leaf looks fine. I like the way you trimmed all the lower branches to keep it clean.

Wouldnt really worry about 1 lower fan, as long as the rest of the plant is healthy.

 

[Blaze215]

Here's a different one:

That RH will cause slight turning in, aka canoeing of the leaves. I agree at this point with bobman, it looks like it's being used up, assuming the plant is growing. If it's not really growing, then seeing more of the plant will help.

Which Floranova product are you using, and at what rate(s)? I've used Floranova Bloom to great ease and success, but have to start at very low rates.

That may be the issue. I went directly to 1tsp per gallon from the other nute line after a thorough flush.

Maybe too much too soon?

maybe slight lockout from overfeeding, or root aphid damage?
why cal mag, r u usin r.o water?
do you alternate with plain water/and nutes?

Damn... the overfeeding comment goes right in line with what Sea Maiden suggested.

I initially thought that I had been using an RO system but in fact I am using the one below. Could this be the issue since I did give them a dose of Cal Mag:

As far as any other issues I am dealing with THE BORG as evidenced by this pic:

Any input on getting rid of them while they are still in veg?


Thanks friends,

215

 

[cyat]

mites, thats it then.
u already have the answer
that stuff mighty wash #1 choice
spinosad #2 choice

thats an ro filter I have the same one, but I only use it to make drinking water, I use tap on my plants, seems to work better about 200-300ppm tap too

also, plain water ever other time or every third time u water should be good.

 

[bobman]

thats not an ro system I got duped at the hydro shop and bought one of those. you need an add on and they sell it online for like an extra 100. You could try no pest strips for the mites. It worked for me but depending on where you are, i heard in some place they are resistant to it.

 

[MynameStitch]

first get rid of the mites..... then fix yur problem... mites will cause all kinds of problems to your plant... makes the plant way more difficult to transfer things inside the plant by eating the damn thing to death....... I would not use RO water unless you got 100% nutrient complete.... keep the water purification system and use that if you like... but unless you have 100% complete nutes your going to have problems even in soil... won't show right away will show up long down the road... if your grow your plants a little big..... but would show sooner if you don't have complete nutes. Micronutes are very important too and they help with the transfer of the main NPK so if you don't have enough of it it can cause problems... but that is just some information to know... not pertaining to this problem

 

[Blaze215]

first get rid of the mites..... then fix yur problem... mites will cause all kinds of problems to your plant... makes the plant way more difficult to transfer things inside the plant by eating the damn thing to death.......

Will do. This is job 1 for me now to at least put those mites in remission.

but unless you have 100% complete nutes your going to have problems even in soil... won't show right away will show up long down the road... if your grow your plants a little big..... but would show sooner if you don't have complete nutes. Micronutes are very important too and they help with the transfer of the main NPK so if you don't have enough of it it can cause problems...

This is my last grow in soil but am in the process of gathering items for a coco run.

What would you recommend?

 

[Blaze215]

mites, thats it then.
u already have the answer
that stuff mighty wash #1 choice
spinosad #2 choice

Good lookin Cyat. I am going to pick this one up from BG Hydro if my local store doesn't have any of it:

Thanks for the inspiration in your Big Trees Coco thread too btw... it truly rocks.

 

[MynameStitch]

If your going to do a coco run you must make sure you have everything you need to make sure things go right....... a good pH tds pen is defiantly and make sure it's calibrated, unless you buy self calibrating ones....
make sure you rinse your coco even if it says rinsed...... your pH will be in the same range this soil grow is... don't let it go to past 6.0 pH.....
Is there anything specific you are asking?

 

[Blaze215]

If your going to do a coco run you must make sure you have everything you need to make sure things go right....... a good pH tds pen is defiantly and make sure it's calibrated, unless you buy self calibrating ones....
make sure you rinse your coco even if it says rinsed...... your pH will be in the same range this soil grow is... don't let it go to past 6.0 pH.....
Is there anything specific you are asking?

Well since you asked.. I just picked up a brick of Botanicare coco and wanted to know whether or not I need to do an initial rinse on it.

If you would like to give your input on this head on over to this thread that I created for it:

Botanicare Cocogro Brick: Flush or no flush

I am sure there are many other growers who are wondering about this specific question as well.

Thanks partner,
215

 

[SeaMaiden]

You're getting your answer on the Botanicare here.

First the brick needs to be expanded. Use warm water to do that, and mix that water up with 20mls/gal Cal-Mag + mild vegging solution. I've never flushed my Botanicare except after it's been used for a run, but I've read of others who must rinse it. Best is to expand it and take a proper reading off of it. That means don't test run off, do a proper media test.

Get the cleanest water you can find, hopefully it's 0ppm/EC. Test its pH and write that down along with the EC.
Take enough of the coir to make a slurry, you want it sloshy in the mixing cup because right now you're trying to extract whatever's in the coco into the water.
Let it set for at least 5mins, 10 is better, I have found 7mins exactly to be the sweet spot (i.e. readings change in that time going from 5-7 mins, but from 7-10 it doesn't).
Now take your pH and EC readings. THAT is far better in determining what's actually IN the coir/media than testing run-off and finding solutions to problems, IME.

Here's a different one:

That may be the issue. I went directly to 1tsp per gallon from the other nute line after a thorough flush.

Maybe too much too soon?

Damn... the overfeeding comment goes right in line with what Sea Maiden suggested.

1tsp = approximately 5mls, so that's actually not too bad, again assuming you're using FNB (the incredibly thick stuff that stains everything, right?). I think you want to learn about VPD now (vapor pressure deficit).
http://www.hydro.co.nz/1_information/1_vpd/info_vpd.html

I initially thought that I had been using an RO system but in fact I am using the one below. Could this be the issue since I did give them a dose of Cal Mag:

You are correct, that is not a reverse osmosis system. What makes it even more misleading is that they're calling it a water PURIFICATION system, and it's not. It is water filtration by mechanical/particulate and chemical (carbon) means. RO means that the water is pushed through a membrane, I see no membrane stage there. Also, not even RO, nor RO/DI (reverse osmosis with deionization) makes PURE water, it is still only filtered. Distillation is the only method that qualifies as purification, but still, when it comes to living things, filtration is better than purification. We want some of that stuff left behind.

As far as any other issues I am dealing with THE BORG as evidenced by this pic:

Any input on getting rid of them while they are still in veg?


Thanks friends,

215

A few suggestions. Raising humidity significantly, especially in conjunction with cooler temperatures, will go a long way toward thwarting reproduction. You can also spray every three days (and I mean EVERY 3 days, not every 5 or 6 or 7) with a mix of isopropyl alcohol and water. If the 50/50 mix doesn't work, then simply increase the proportion of ISO. Azatrol/Azamax can also work, but can become expensive if you have a lot of plants to treat. JMS Stylet oil, which requires repeated applications, again every 3 days, is another organic solution. I understand Neem to be very effective, but all I have on hand is Greenlight and they scoff at it.

There are other methods, far more toxic, that I'm sure many will suggest. Floramite, Forbid, Avid, No Pest Strips, the list goes on and on and on. But guess what. Every. Single. One. Makes resistance possible and at least three out of the four I've listed are already known to have produced resistant mites.

Remember, YOU make the best vector for spider mites there is.

 

[Blaze215]

Thanks for the assistance fellas. I just picked up some Captain Jack's Deadbug Concentrate:

I will cycle this off with Azamax so hopefully this will do the job. I will order the Mighty Wash for future use but had to pick up something right now.