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Wilma tray

zukinjo

zukinjo

Member
Hi guys...
I wanna start my firs hydro...i wanna start with wilma tray4...

http://www.atami.com/?pid=59&prid=180

What do u recommend i need with this setup...???exept fertelizers and ph meter....I know i need low temperatures so i will use a cool tube...
and my grow tent is 1x1x2 meters...
tnx guys i need all the help i can get...
:thank you:
 
FreezerBoy

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
Pots of that type are typically filled with clay pellets such as Hydroton.

For a first grow, I'd keep nute regimen simple. Either a 2-part (such as GH FloraMicro and FloraBloom. No FloraGrow.) Or a premixed solution (such as GH FloraNova.)

pH pens and meters are a crapshoot. You pays your money and you takes your chances. I stuck with test drops from the aquarium store.

You'll want to measure EC, electrical conductivity, as well. "TDS", "PPM" and EC meters (note the quotes and the lack thereof) all measure EC and EC only. The difference is that an EC meter will display EC while "PPM" and "TDS" display nonsense. You can run a grow with "PPM" and "TDS". Plants don't care if "PPM" and "TDS" are bogus, plants are illiterate. We are not. If you've yet to make the purchase, do yourself and the hobby a favor and stick with EC.

Water is an insulator. It's the stuff in the water that conducts electricity. The more nutes, the higher the EC. Because nutes are acidic, the higher the EC the greater the acidity BUT because of how pH is measured, greater acidity means lower pH. This means that EC and pH move in opposite directions. Failure do to so may be an indication of trouble.

Because most faucets deliver alkaline water, you'll probably want to invest in some pH Down (use tap water for pH Up.) Start seedlings at 1/4 the suggested rate (1/2 for mature plants) Chart EC and pH daily in your journal. EC up, pH down is too rich. EC down, pH up is too lean. EC flat, pH flat looks good on paper but, is bad in practice. No one pH reading allows absorption of all nutes so a flat reading guarantees unbalanced feeding leading to toxicity, deprivation or both.
 
zukinjo

zukinjo

Member
What do i buy for roots when the timer is off?
for them to not go dry?
i think that the nutrient pump is on light timer im not sure?!
 
FreezerBoy

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
Not my system. I see no timer in the picture. A timer could easily result in near instantaneous death of the garden. The system should only be turned off between grows.

It may be there is an INTERVAL timer. X seconds on, Y seconds off. But, it ALWAYS comes back on within a matter of minutes. The cycle then repeats 24/7.
 
N

noreason

Natural born Grower
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hydrotons used in that kind of system to fill the pots, can turn dry very fast.Timer or not, you may get some advantage to mix some small pieces of rockwool with the hydroton, because they keep more water, and in the same time they keep a part of air in.

A timer for water feed is necessary.I suggest to buy a digital one,more accurate and if a blackout,they don't reset.
It should be set along plant's necessity, small seedlings need less water than a bigger plant.You have to consider that roots needs water and air too.So the hydroton should remain a little moist all the time,and you should check periodically.

Nighttime,one water feed is ok for small plants.
 
zukinjo

zukinjo

Member
it dont understand completely...
You say by day fertilizer and by night just water??
How can i do that if it has just one container?
can u tell me how a day feeding looks?
Sorry for not understanding...im a newb...
and i get diffrent answers at diffrent forums...
tnx for the help,....
 
D

darkhorse

just keep the nutes topped up full in the tank and train the plants away from each other
or you will end up with a mesy bush.
if you keep the tank/res full ph and ec swings wont be as bad.

set timmer for a couple of times a day when plants are small and then switch timmer to more frequent on times as plants get bigger.
 
N

noreason

Natural born Grower
ICMag Donor
Veteran
zukinjo said:
it dont understand completely...
You say by day fertilizer and by night just water??
How can i do that if it has just one container?
can u tell me how a day feeding looks?
Sorry for not understanding...im a newb...
and i get diffrent answers at diffrent forums...
tnx for the help,....
Click to expand...

No way.The nutritive solution is only one, for night and day.

During the day you should set more irrigation because plants consume more water than in the night, that's all.

How frequently and how long each irrigation should be is given from several factors, like plant size (and root mass), pot size, RH and temps etc.... so every system has its perfect timing.

Sorry if my English is a little poor,it's not my native language :)

:wave:
 
zukinjo

zukinjo

Member
No problem...its not my first launguage so dont worry about it...
what about the temperatures of the tank i read that they must be below 25c...
And the ph must be betwen 5.0 and 6.5 wright?
And the tank must be changed every week or depending of the ph???
 
N

noreason

Natural born Grower
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Water temp should be around 20° because at this temp DO (dissolved oxygen) is at the top, and this is good in any case.
When the water temp raise, some bacteria will develop and\or develop faster.This kind of bacteria are not good for roots and can cause root rot.
Take in mind that when the roots are completely submerged in the water, like DWC system, water temp is more important than a system like yours, where roots aren't submerged.

I suggest you tu use a good enzymes source, like Atami atazyme (I use it always and never had a problem, even working in DWC with 23-25°C )

pH should be around 5.5 - 6.5

You should avoid rapidly fluctuation over 1 point.
With experience you will learn what is the best pH for your system, strains and plant demands.
Example, if I just raise pH in my rez, the plant start to absorb more nitrogen and I see it in the dark hooked green of the leaves.

Water change once a week is a safe way to start, but it's also a waste of nutes and water.
When plants are small,let the water stay more.

When the plants are bigger, change the water every week, but in future when you will be more experienced you should keep the water for more then a week IMO.

:wave:
 
N

noreason

Natural born Grower
ICMag Donor
Veteran
zukinjo said:
Just one question...
So i dont need a mistr for the roots...?
the roots are in the Water?
Click to expand...

What is mistr?

and no...the roots in that system will be in the pots.
When the plants grow bigger, the roots will go little by little to the water in the reservoir.
They feel the water and follow it,till they dive into the rez....normal stuff ;)
 
N

noreason

Natural born Grower
ICMag Donor
Veteran
zukinjo said:
So i need wilma,grom medium,ph tester,fertelizer,ph down(ph+),timer,light and thats it?
Click to expand...

An ec meter is a must have if you plan to grow hydro.It helps a lot.

Timers.....you need at least two of them, one for the light and one for the water.

A good thing to have is an air pump with an airstone.You put the airstone in the reservoir and it keep the solution mixed and fresh.

You have to take into account air circulation.Plants need some air movement so a couple of little fan are a good choice and if you use a growbox or a closed room, you need an air extractor to change the air inside the room.

Buy a bottle of enzymes too.They're not fertilizers but helps a lot sometimes ;)

:wave:
 
B

Bob-Hope

Member
Buy 4 x 10ltr AirPots,

fill them with clean Hydroton,

make up 40ltr of canna Aqua Vega to an Ec 0.7,

Set the PH to 5.2

place nutes in the tank,

connect the pump and tubing together and place the top back on,

put the 4 AirPots on the tray and cut 4 lengths of hose,using the tool supplied,

pierce 4 holes in the big tube and connect the 4 lengths of hose using the grommets,

Poke hose through the second hole down in your AirPot,

Take rooted clone or seedling and place in the AirPot,

Turn pump on.

Thats it.

The constant flow of solution falling through the hydroton, will give your plants roots massive amounts of oxygen, negating the need for airstones

ime over a period of around 7 to 10 days your ph will slowly rise to around 6.2, i usually change the tank or add fresh nutes depending on age of plants.

BoB
 
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