Tea Article

[rrog]

Nice comparison I think.

Bullfrog, how often are you applying ACT? Forgive my inexperience, but I would have thought the soil would be pretty (properly) active once initially inoculated. Foliar I could see since there's maybe less to sustain an initial inoculation. Again, I don't know, which is why I'm asking. Thanks.

 

[mad librettist]

oh, FYI, you don't need to keep using teas once you achieve a nice balance. It can't hurt, but if you are not enjoying all the work it's just fine to cut back.

 

[rrog]

Thank you very much for clarifying that MadL. I sometimes feel silly asking what I feel are dumb questions. Then I take a vape and say fuck it.

 

[growbig789]

thanks for the insight.. I will be applying the tea for the 1st time, so the soil definitely probably needs a good inoculation. Was considering foliar also because well figured it couldn't hurt and I have a plant that looks like it could use a little tlc.

Also, at this stage I don't want to be spraying spinosad or neem anymore and wondered if foliar tea would be a better alternative and ok to do at this point. I have thrips starting to do a little damage and a few mites too that I was keeping at bay but I haven't sprayed in a week or so... FYI my outdoor plants are about 2 to 3 weeks behind most others because I started late and kept them on supplemental lighting till almost the last week in august.

I'll probably just stick to giving them a good root drench. Learned alot from this board and these threads, thanks to everyone for contributing the great info

 

[mad librettist]

never battled thrips indoors, but for the mites, you should be eradicating them if you are using neem.

how many times did you spray, and at what interval?

If you truly have neem resistant mites, that is very bad news. for everyone.

 

[growbig789]

Well it has been a while since ive sprayed because they were under control. I dont think they are super mites thrips are more of a problem for me. Spinosad works but its not seeming to have much residual staying power.

But anyways, i'm looking forward to doing my 1st tea, gonna consist of the recipe mentioned on the last couple pages, vermicompost, liquid kelp, fish hydrolysate, and molasses. Got an eco commercial 1 air pump and a homemade pvc diffuser in a 5 gal bucket. Might try to fashion an air lift or something bit trying this first.

 

[mad librettist]

control of mites with neem = complete eradication.

humor me - take me through your treatment program, I betcha we will find a problem that applies to the thrips as well.

in particular it sounds to me like you are allowing some adults to lay eggs. The key to using these sustainable pesticides is crashing the population via repeated application timed specifically to interrupt the life cycle as it is playing out under the conditions at hand.

 

[growbig789]

I sprayed neem about 3 times, each a week apart back in august, then spinosad a couple times about a week apart first couple weeks of sept. The mites are bad on some pumpkins i have in another part of my yard, so my theory is maybe they came back over from them. Really thought the mites arent bad, visible damage is coming from the thrips.

I wasnt using cold pressed neem which ive since read about on here, just the green light concentrate, so i could probably upgrade my product. Kind of off topic to teas, but since u asked

 

[Bullfrog44]

I either feed with nutes or water with tea every watering. I just stopped using the tea on certain plants close to harvest but my plants seemed to love the extra teas all season long. I know it is not needed, but I can tell you it doesn't hurt either.

Nice comparison I think.

Bullfrog, how often are you applying ACT? Forgive my inexperience, but I would have thought the soil would be pretty (properly) active once initially inoculated. Foliar I could see since there's maybe less to sustain an initial inoculation. Again, I don't know, which is why I'm asking. Thanks.

 

[calientecarlos]

Love the tea! I use it in my aero cloner and it cut root time dang near in half.

 

[SeaMaiden]

Celtic sea salt has 84% NaCl and even sea salt from Okinawa Japan has 73% NaCl, but the rest are minerals and trace elements.

We shall check it out!!

Namaste

Right now I'm reminded of an acquaintance's reaction when I told him how I deal with Mg deficiencies using MgSO4. He gasped quite audibly, then said, "Oh my God! You don't want to put anything with SALT in your plants!" I calmly explained to him that something that uses the term "salt" doesn't necessarily mean NaCl, but even if it did, a very small amount is unlikely to cause much harm.

So, I know how much salt I can put into a freshwater fish tank and affect those aquatic plants, how certain organisms are affected, but a lot of that has to do with changing osmotic pressure of submerged bodies, ya know? Seems to me that a teeny tiny little bit (this is a scientifically valid term, btw) wouldn't hurt, and is worth trying out on a plant or three, depending on your space, resources, etcetera.

I picked up some powdered spirulina to play with yesterday. Has anyone tried it in teas? Or soil/foliar that that matter....scrappy

Spirulina seems to make anything I've fed it to much healthier. Brighter tail, bushier fins, more sparkly scales. I don't know if the microalgae itself would have any effect given as a foliar, I think it may need to be broken down, but again, it's worth a try, no?

I'm an advocate of experimentation in areas of question. I learn as much from my failures as I do my successes, as well as those of others.

I sprayed neem about 3 times, each a week apart back in august, then spinosad a couple times about a week apart first couple weeks of sept. The mites are bad on some pumpkins i have in another part of my yard, so my theory is maybe they came back over from them. Really thought the mites arent bad, visible damage is coming from the thrips.

I wasnt using cold pressed neem which ive since read about on here, just the green light concentrate, so i could probably upgrade my product. Kind of off topic to teas, but since u asked

One of this year's failures was tomato leaf spray to control my first OD experience with spider mites, and they hit my green beans really badly. I then tried lavender extract, but quickly ran out of flowers with which to make it. I would normally make multiple applications of JMS because it's also good for controlling a wide variety of pests and disease (notably, for instance, PM fungi), but I ran out and apparently now have to have a pesticide license. The mites practically threw their heads back and scoffed at my GL neem applications.

This has been a difficult year, no? I got a month of ripe tomatoes, that's it.

 

[mad librettist]

I sprayed neem about 3 times, each a week apart back in august, then spinosad a couple times about a week apart first couple weeks of sept. The mites are bad on some pumpkins i have in another part of my yard, so my theory is maybe they came back over from them. Really thought the mites arent bad, visible damage is coming from the thrips.

I wasnt using cold pressed neem which ive since read about on here, just the green light concentrate, so i could probably upgrade my product. Kind of off topic to teas, but since u asked

Aha! I knew there would be an issue with the schedule.

Once a week is not enough! The mite life cycle will be 5 days at most. In the summer it can easily be only 3 days from egg to laying.

Once a week won't work!

 

[jaykush]

This has been a difficult year, no? I got a month of ripe tomatoes, that's it.

not here, we have been getting them since june, still going strong.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

If you want to stop pussy footing around with mites use Forbid 4F... I know, I know..
Its not organic and i don't like that either but one application of Forbid took em out and haven't seen em since. thats after spraying neem and Azamax for monthes!!

According to MadL i wasn't spaying nearly enough... i was pretty fed up with having to spray even once a week so i went to the Forbid and finished it.

Sorry for being off topic...just hate to hear people are battling the Borg... resistance is not futile!!!

 

[SeaMaiden]

Not using Forbid, no way no how. Not contaminating my land, no way no how. I mean, here I am with an old back injury and a new knee injury and I still hand-pull poison oak so that I avoid using shit like Round-Up. I'm positive the mites will not be able to survive the weather we've had, cold, wet, woke up to frost this morning. Mites are nothing compared to root aphids, either. And then there are the lovely hemp russet mites that I hope and pray I won't have to experience EVER.

Forbid isn't necessarily a one-off application. That's how Floramite started off, right? And look at it now.

For resistance management, please note that Forbid™ 240 SC Insecticide/Miticide contains a Group 23 insecticide. Any insect population may contain individuals naturally resistant to Forbid™ 240 SC Insecticide/Miticide and other Group 23 insecticides. The resistant individuals
may dominate the insect population if this group of insecticides is used repeatedly in the same fields. Other resistance mechanisms that are not linked to site of action, but specific for individual chemicals, such as enhanced metabolism, may also exist. Appropriate resistance-management strategies should be followed.

To delay insecticide resistance:
• Where possible, rotate the use of Forbid™ 240 SC Insecticide/Miticide or other Group 23 insecticides with different groups that control the same pests in a field.
• Use tank mixtures with insecticides/acaricides from a different group when such use is permitted.
• Insecticide use should be based on an IPM program that includes scouting, record keeping, and considers cultural, biological and other chemical control practices.
• Before applying Forbid™ 240 SC Insecticide/Miticide, correctly identify the pest and ensure economic and agronomic thresholds are met as recommended by local provincial or IPM specialists.
• Monitor treated pest populations for resistance development.
• Contact your local extension specialist or certified crop advisors for any additional pesticide resistance-management and/or IPM recommendations for the specific site and pest problems in your area.

This doesn't even begin to address application precautions, such as to never apply Forbid in dead calm conditions. It's just not the stuff for me, and honestly, reading what I'm reading means that I couldn't conscientiously recommend it to other growers.

ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS
TOXIC to aquatic organisms and non-target terrestrial plants. TOXIC to certain beneficial insects. Minimize spray drift to reduce harmful effects on beneficial insects in habitats next to the application site such as hedgerows and woodland. Use with caution in a pest management program utilizing beneficial insects. Do not mix, load or clean equipment within 30 metres of
wellheads or aquatic systems.

Jesus, I'm on a well, too.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

I figured i'd get a response similar to the Maiden's.... i had to mention it because it worked for me.

I'm well aware of the hazards but like i mentioned before, i fought those bastards for a long time and had to do something! In hind sight i probably should've mentioned some hazards along with my recommendation...sorry and thanks to SeaMaiden for picking up my slack.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

Neem hurts beneficial insects too....right??

 

[mad librettist]

sorry strap, I had to vote your post down for bringing poison to the organic forum.


Nothing personal.

 

[mad librettist]

Neem hurts beneficial insects too....right??

any oil or soap is going to kill lots of things.

That's why biological controls are always the best if you can swing it.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

all good Mad.... i understand.

If i run into a problem again i will be using neem at a 2 or 3 day interval.

Do i need to use the expensive stuff like Einstein Oil or will any neem product work?