"The NEW" 600w Soil Club.
- Thread starter Farmer Stealth
- Start date
outdoorkush
Member
plants r lookin great guys, im throwing up a 1200w closet with 2 vented hoods with lenses any one have any tips for the setup as far as exaust fans and the intake for the freshair
primobud
Member
Is it too late too join? I'm using 2, 600HPS. 8" Pots & ProMix. I normally never flower the smaller plants, this site inspired me to experiment with 2 clones and then one of my normal plants was a hermie so I had room for more. Now I gotts see if I can download the pics from 14 days of flower for the big plants & 7 for the small.
Light One
Light Two
AKSt F14
SgSt F14
BB F14
And there they are so far. I'll put in Bud Shots for the big plants one week the smaller plants the next. Now I'm gonna check out this thread properly!
Light Two
AKSt F14
SgSt F14
BB F14And there they are so far. I'll put in Bud Shots for the big plants one week the smaller plants the next. Now I'm gonna check out this thread properly!
Hey the 600 club...I got a run getting ready to fire up...gonna be a wild ride
600 FTW
600 FTW
All under 2 600
Rockbud
Princess13
PCK
MSS x SB BX1
600 FTW
All under 2 600
Rockbud
Princess13
PCK
MSS x SB BX1
Musicianized
Member
Sure why not...
SugarPunch Fem, 2 weeks veg today. Sitting in a 2/1 part mix of Fungus Gnat Farms Ocean Forest and Happy Gnat (lol)...One of them already has a calyx kind of surprised me...
Only nutes they get is PH'd oxygen/nitrogen enriched aquarium water.
SugarPunch Fem, 2 weeks veg today. Sitting in a 2/1 part mix of Fungus Gnat Farms Ocean Forest and Happy Gnat (lol)...One of them already has a calyx kind of surprised me...
Only nutes they get is PH'd oxygen/nitrogen enriched aquarium water.
Attachments
I have never had any issues with Gnats with FF. I USE A 60/40 mix of FFOF/ FFLW. Not 1 bug
Closet_Grower
Member
got a 600 hps and a 400 (soon to be 600) side by side in a 3x7 closet
ill post pics someday
ill post pics someday
Musicianized
Member
Not sure where you are but I heard it was more of a problem on the east coast. Not sure if they have a different location that supplies us or what..
I have a damn swarm of the little bastards.. They don't hurt anything but are pesky none-the-less..
I'm in Cali. If the bags are stored in a place that is infested with them then any soil can get them. When I get my bags I cut them open and put them into a tote. I mix it there and let it sit for a week and then use it. Here is what I would do to kill those. Water all plants well. Put a layer of Seven-5 dust on the surface of the soil leave it for 3 days do not water you will notice thousands of dead gnats mixed in with this powder take a small wet vac and suck all that powder and dead bugs off and water. Repeat if needed this will completely solve any Gnat issues.
Musicianized
Member
Thanks.. I might have to try that. I didn't want to use any pesticides though. I was thinking maybe sticky traps but may have to get some chemicals..
it is a pesticide but it never gets into the water or plant using it they way I suggested.
Musicianized
Member
We me personally, I use real soil.
Musicianized
Member
RobMarley420
Member
600watt HPS, Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil, and a 3'X3' grow tent.
The term potting soil has become something of a misnomer in today’s world of container gardening. Most bags of potting soil contain no field soil but are composed of a variety of organic and inorganic materials and are referred to as soilless mixes. A potting medium that meets several of the plant’s needs. The medium must be a stable reservoir of moisture and nutrients and remain loose enough to allow for root and water movement and the exchange of gases in the root zone. A growing medium must also have a pH (a measure of the alkalinity or acidity of a medium) that can support adequate nutrient uptake, and it must be free of soil-borne diseases, weed seeds, and toxins. Finally, a container medium must provide adequate anchorage and support for the roots while still being heavy enough to provide sufficient ballast to prevent plants from tipping over. A well-blended soilless medium can easily satisfy all these requirements and do so without the inherent problems and variability frequently encountered when field, or native, soils are used in containers.
Soilless mixes have little natural fertility, so they need fertilizer, lime, and sometimes other materials added to them to give the plants nutrients. Many soilless mixes contain a “starter charge” of fertilizer that can satisfy the nutritional requirements of plants for a few weeks, but longer-term fertility maintenance can require the addition of liquid fertilizers on a regular basis. Another option is the application of a slow-release fertilizer, which provides a constant supply of available nutrients and can either be incorporated into the medium or simply top-dressed on the surface. The rate of nutrient release for most of these fertilizers is regulated by temperature, so plants receive more fertilizer when they are actively growing, and frequent watering will not leach the nutrients from the mix. Slow-release fertilizers are available in various formulations that can provide adequate nutrition for as short as three months or as long as two years.
Soilless mixes also have limited reserves of trace elements, so for best results, choose a fertilizer that also contains these micronutrients. Some mixes now come with slow-release fertilizers incorporated into the medium, and in these cases, the fertilizer analysis is usually included on the bag’s label.Most commercial mixes have ample lime added, so the pH should remain fairly stable over time. Soilless media perform well at a slightly acidic pH, so the lime requirements for these mixes are not as critical as for native garden soils. When in doubt about the fertility of a soilless mix, a soil test may be useful, but be sure to indicate that you have an artificial or greenhouse medium when submitting your samples.
One positive trend in soilless media products is improved labeling on the bags. Many products now list all the ingredients and additives on the package (mixes with systemic insecticides added are always clearly labeled). If you have an understanding of what components do in a mix, then choosing the right product for your container gardening needs has never been easier.
Soilless mixes have little natural fertility, so they need fertilizer, lime, and sometimes other materials added to them to give the plants nutrients. Many soilless mixes contain a “starter charge” of fertilizer that can satisfy the nutritional requirements of plants for a few weeks, but longer-term fertility maintenance can require the addition of liquid fertilizers on a regular basis. Another option is the application of a slow-release fertilizer, which provides a constant supply of available nutrients and can either be incorporated into the medium or simply top-dressed on the surface. The rate of nutrient release for most of these fertilizers is regulated by temperature, so plants receive more fertilizer when they are actively growing, and frequent watering will not leach the nutrients from the mix. Slow-release fertilizers are available in various formulations that can provide adequate nutrition for as short as three months or as long as two years.
Soilless mixes also have limited reserves of trace elements, so for best results, choose a fertilizer that also contains these micronutrients. Some mixes now come with slow-release fertilizers incorporated into the medium, and in these cases, the fertilizer analysis is usually included on the bag’s label.Most commercial mixes have ample lime added, so the pH should remain fairly stable over time. Soilless media perform well at a slightly acidic pH, so the lime requirements for these mixes are not as critical as for native garden soils. When in doubt about the fertility of a soilless mix, a soil test may be useful, but be sure to indicate that you have an artificial or greenhouse medium when submitting your samples.
One positive trend in soilless media products is improved labeling on the bags. Many products now list all the ingredients and additives on the package (mixes with systemic insecticides added are always clearly labeled). If you have an understanding of what components do in a mix, then choosing the right product for your container gardening needs has never been easier.
