will more lights add weight

[fredcdobbs]

in the last week?..from what i've read it wont make a difference if they're under fluoros or 1000 hps..whats yer experience,if any?

 

[señorsloth]

nope it wont, i mean it depends on what you define as the last week. if you are one of those naive early pickers...maybe...but during that final ripening stage they don't gain much weight at all...it's mostly about letting the chemical composition of the flowers change to give a more full bodied high, and of course allowing for peak floral expression, where your flowers have the most terpenes flowing through it and nearly all calyxes have swelled, with the hairs receded inside... i don't know if you are thinking about switching to floros during the ripening time but i can't say what would happen. i do tend to take my plants and put them in an empty closet 2 days before harvest to leave in total darkness, whether it does anything to my plants i cannot tell, but it does free up my grow room a few days earlier so i can sanitize it and start my next run...

 

[Iron_Lion]

last month, yes. last week, not much if any.

 

[BudGood]

Might not make a whole lot of difference, but I wouldn't want to risk any additional plumping or essential oils that might form in that last week from the larger light. Why go the whole time with a 1000, then the last week under a flouro? It's like running balls out until the end of the race, then slowing down right as you see the finish line!

 

[señorsloth]

on another note, during the last few weeks a process happens called senescence...basically the plant is dying, nutrient uptake as well as photosynthesis is GREATLY reduced, so in theory all the watts in the world wouldn't do much for the simple fact that the plant is on it's deathbed and not absorbing much light regardless...

 

[forty]

they grow like a motherfucker in the dark!

 

[Crush]

No one really knows..

But what tomatoe growers know is you need a lot of light near the end of the grow because while the tomato doesn't look different on the outside (size), the plant has sugars that it's sending to the inside of the tomato.

On your last weeks, it's very important for finishing off the THC. You're going for cloudy trichomes.

The question is, will more or less light achieve the same results in making the trich's cloudy?

My guess is that more lights would help it finish faster. Same with tomatoes so I would keep it under 1000w. If you don't you could wait longer for it to finish.

But all this is guessing. I'm just trying to make an educated guess.

 

[paulo73]

No sure if i get your question.
Do you mean if there is any point in adding some extra lummens on the last week of flowering? In my opinion no because i am flushing at that stage.
Or do you mean if it is ok to swap from a 1000 HPS to some fluoros because plants won´t feel the difference?
Never done it but because of the same reason stated above it might be a good idea.
I have read somewhere that in order to grow perfect sativas, not sure if it is the same to all strains, you should reduce the available lummens available. Sadly i don´t have a dimmable balast, yet, to try this one out.
But i will any day soon.

 

[fredcdobbs]

No one really knows..

But what tomatoe growers know is you need a lot of light near the end of the grow because while the tomato doesn't look different on the outside (size), the plant has sugars that it's sending to the inside of the tomato.

On your last weeks, it's very important for finishing off the THC. You're going for cloudy trichomes.

The question is, will more or less light achieve the same results in making the trich's cloudy?

My guess is that more lights would help it finish faster. Same with tomatoes so I would keep it under 1000w. If you don't you could wait longer for it to finish.

But all this is guessing. I'm just trying to make an educated guess.

my only concern is weight.

 

[fredcdobbs]

No sure if i get your question.
Do you mean if there is any point in adding some extra lummens on the last week of flowering? In my opinion no because i am flushing at that stage.
Or do you mean if it is ok to swap from a 1000 HPS to some fluoros because plants won´t feel the difference?
Never done it but because of the same reason stated above it might be a good idea.
I have read somewhere that in order to grow perfect sativas, not sure if it is the same to all strains, you should reduce the available lummens available. Sadly i don´t have a dimmable balast, yet, to try this one out.
But i will any day soon.

yes paulo,was talkin about goin from 1000 hps to fluoros.

 

[mygrow1900]

Here's another educated guess.

Since the plants are pretty much using the reserves in their roots to push as much that is left of their life into the buds, and photosynthesis towards the end of this life cycle shuts down or considerably tapers off, using the higher level of light intensity at this end point provides little if any perceptible benefit. For instance, during the fall, for any annual plant, as the days become shorter, leafs start to wilt and seed packages ripen in anticipation of seed dispersal. These plants do this regardless of the light, they do it and have the energy to do it because of a healthy root system and water. So, if maximizing the yield while needing to start a next cycle is important, I would think that doing what you suggest by using floros for the last week and cleaning up the grow room is a great idea. I'll bring this up with my partner and see if we can do the same thing soon.

Thanks for the idea.

 

[RollmeoneKenobi]

Flouros don't have the light penetration of the 1000 hps. That means the lower nodes of the plant will receive little or no light. In my opinion you might as well harvest since you will rob the plant of any additional light energy with the flouros.

 

[Crush]

Flouros don't have the light penetration of the 1000 hps. That means the lower nodes of the plant will receive little or no light. In my opinion you might as well harvest since you will rob the plant of any additional light energy with the flouros.

Yeah I'm going to second this one also.

Time is money. If you want weight, just pick it a week early.

Let's put it this way, I just harvested some GHS Bubba Kush last night but left 1/3 of the bottom buds on the plant because the trichs weren't as cloudy as the buds that had all the light.

I have an apple tree in the backyard. In the fall the apples will look ripe and ready to pick. If you taste it though, it won't be sweet until later fall.

But the apples stay the same size.

I've never seen the buds 'grow' any larger when the when they are in the 'ripening' phase. It's just a matter of sugars and ripening.

My educated guess is that the weight would be the same if you harvested a week early.

There are some that say the THC pre-curses, will continue to convert to THC *after* you pick the bud and do your cure. Also, THC that was close to converting to CBD, will continue to convert to CBD afterwards during a cure. I've seen some people who always pick a 'week early' sort of thing for this reason. But it's all guesses at this point.

It would be similar to picking a tomato early, and letting it ripen in your house. I'm sure weed works differently though.

I personally think it's best to pick mostly cloudy with no amber, and then cure for a month or two then smoke as soon as possible while it's fresh.