No Nematodes For Root Aphids?

[rrog]

Going to try a soil mix (Roots Organic) that I'll amend. Want to add nematodes from the start. steinernema feltiae for fungus gnats.

Not sure if S.F.Nematodes also eat root aphids. I'm not finding that they do. Might there be another beneficial creature that I could add to address aphids before plant roots are introduced?

I could add Beauveria bassiana which is a fungal parasite to arthropods, apparently, but maybe they'd kill the Nematodes also.

 

[nomaad]

Bacillus Thurigensis Israeliensis (aka Gnatrol, Mosquito Dunks, Microbe Lift, etc) is probably the way to go toward controlling the gants that may well come with your bags of Roots soil.

As far as i know, neither are effective against Root Aphids.

 

[rrog]

Bacillus Thurigensis Israeliensis (aka Gnatrol, Mosquito Dunks, Microbe Lift, etc) is probably the way to go toward controlling the gants that may well come with your bags of Roots soil. Nematodes

As far as i know, neither are effective against Root Aphids.

Seems that's the case.

I've read a couple of articles that describe using nematodes against root aphids, but I think they are mistaken.

 

[rrog]

Apparently Beauveria bassiana (fungus) and steinernema feltiae (nematode) will not reproduce if both are present in the same host. This was an insect host, so maybe soil conditions allow both to reproduce.

Also, S. feltiae did not produce progeny in B. thuringiensis-infected hosts. So the nematodes really won't last if there's b. Bassiana (fungus) or B. thuringiensis (bacteria dunks)

So I wonder if an inoculation of organic pyrethrum to the soil prior to planting makes sense? Sort of like pool shock. Then let the amended soil work its magic for a couple weeks, then introduce roots and nematodes in the soil

 

[DARC MIND]

here you go
using beneficial nematodes for crop insect pest control
seems ther is certain conditions, beneficial nematodes prefer to work in. synthetic chemical rich media is probably not one, so chem heads will likely be wasting ther money.
be sure to rid of both chlorine/chloramine when drenching,for the first few weeks after inoculating media & i would mulch to keep top soil active/out of direct light.
applying them when its too cold/ hot, or exposed the culture to UV rays & it seems you will negatively impact how effective, if at all, ur efforts are.

Steinernema carpocapsae.
An ambusher type, it is most effective against highly mobile surface
insects such as webworms, cutworms, armyworms, girdlers, and wood borers. Most effective at soil surface temperatures between 70–85°F. Can be formulated in a partially desiccated state in clay granules to provide several months of room-temperature shelf life.
S. feltiae.
Combines ambusher and cruiser strategies and attacks immature fly larvae (dipterous insects) including mushroom flies, fungus gnats, and crane flies. Maintains infectivity at low soil
temperatures, even below 50°F. Currently has relatively low stability in formulation and a short
shelf life.
S. glaseri.
A large cruiser type that attacks white grubs and other beetle larvae, particularly scarabs.
Expensive and difficult to produce and manage due to its tendency to “lose” its bacterial symbiont. Highly active and robust infective juveniles are difficult to contain within formulations.
Additional work needed for commercialization.
S. riobravis.
Combines ambusher and cruiser strategies, and attacks corn earworms, citrus root weevils, pink bollworms, and mole crickets. Isolated from Rio Grande Valley of Texas. Maintains infectivity at soil temperatures above 95°F and in semi-arid conditions.
Heterorhabditis bacteriophora.
A cruiser type nematode that attacks caterpillar and beetle larvae including root weevils, particularly black vine weevil. Most effective in warm temperatures, above 68°F. Infective juveniles persist only a few days in the soil. Currently has poor stability in formulation and a short shelf life. Additional work needed for successful commercialization.
H. marelatus.
A cruiser type nematode that attacks beetle larvae including white grubs and root weevils. Isolated from the Oregon coastal region. Active at cool soil temperatures, 50–55°F. Newly available.
H. megidis.
A large cruiser type nematode that has been effective in controlling black vine weevil larvae. Has not been widely researched or tested for insect control. Isolated in Ohio, researched and developed in Europe, and now available in the U.S. Currently has poor formulation stability and a short shelf life.

 

[rrog]

Thanks as always Darc. Wish I could find a critter that would deal with the aphids that didn't harm the nematodes. Not finding references for much

Seems that if there's a chance of your (bagged soil coming in already infected something should be done as a preventative. So I wonder if an inoculation of organic pyrethrum and/or Azadirachtin to the soil a few weeks before you use it is ever done? Pyrethrum at least breaks down quickly so it's safe to add Nematodes later.

I suppose I cold look at Diatom. earth + Beauveria bassiana fungus. Omit the nematodes

 

[h.h.]

I've used a lot of bagged soil, mostly Roots. Though I have found better premix, I never have had root aphids. I see little need for precaution as long as it isn't sitting in someone's warehouse for 6 months. Now if you have reoccurring problems in your room, I'd suspect the room or the methods. Perhaps the buckets are creating too much humidity. I don't really know seeing how I've never had the problem. I just don't suspect the soil and if I did, I would change my place of purchase.

 

[rrog]

Hi H2. I hear you. Given how nasty root aphids are, it seemed reasonable. As a precaution.

I guess at this point Diatom. earth + Beauveria bassiana fungus looks like a winner. Omit the nematodes.

 

[Scrappy4]

rrog, if you do use nematodes, you probably don't want to use neem cake/oil on or in your soil. Neem oil is listed as a nemacide. Just a heads up bro.....scrappy

 

[h.h.]

Hi H2. I hear you. Given how nasty root aphids are, it seemed reasonable. As a precaution.

I guess at this point Diatom. earth + Beauveria bassiana fungus looks like a winner. Omit the nematodes.

Quite reasonable, especially with the direction you're looking in.
I did find this on lettuce root aphid and enemies...
http://journals.cambridge.org/actio...EF1ACFE46.tomcat1?fromPage=online&aid=2632836

 

[rrog]

Thanks H2. The b. Bass fungus and dia. Earth both help against root aphids and gnats and can be used together. I can also use organic pyrethrum. As far as I can tell, all three of these can be used at the same time with no ill-effects on the plant or me.

I will be mixing this soil hot, so it needs to "cook" for a month. I thought it would be a good time to kill off these critters before I actually use the soil.

 

[nomaad]

you will also cook off the beneficial bacteria in your soil. perfect time of year for solarizing. i have a couple of piles of soil that are routienely getting up to 140 degrees.

 

[rrog]

I wasn't planning on "cooking" it at some elevated temp. The mass is small and not a composting pile.

 

[oli]

I saw what I think was a fungus gnat today and also a black weevil, so just to be safe I dusted with D.E., put up sticky traps, bought some Bti mosquito dunks that I will use if I see anymore signs of bugs. As a result I'm already thinking ahead about aphids and other potential pests.

Two questions for any of you:

a. Will Bti Dunks kill black weevil larvae as well, or will the D.E. take care of them?

b. Has anyone tried any Bonide products containing Imidacloprid against root aphids?

Good info on nematodes!

 

[Dion]

entomopathogenic nematode is so vague

any help with aphid root control woudl be great

i have truoble in the aquaponic garden

 

[GnatKiller]

i've used both bt and nematodes they all work very nicely for gnats, if i knew them first maybe i had a different nickname eh..
well there's neem flour in the mix too..dont know looks like gnats are definately gone, i mean if see one or two in a week time is a lot and i usually take care of it manually..good stuff