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Brown tips on almost all leaves...

SoItShallBe

New member
Hey all, hopefully this is something small and fixable...heres the back story..this is my first grow and its with CFLs in a stealth dresser. The bulbs I'm using are 26w, 1660 lums, "sunshine" 5000k x2. The soil is offbrand (I know..) potting with ferts (10-6-8). My box is a work in progress and is currently only lacking ventilation but its workable. ( I have a small fan moving air around inside but no out or intake, except opening the door). "Whetta" has been living about a month.
Two days ago I noticed brown tips on the leaves..can someone tell me what this is and what I can do to remedy this situation.
Thank you in advance:tiphat:
 

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Opus53

Member
nute burn m8...classic dark leaf and fried end remedy= water, no fert till she lightens up

opus
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
Ferted potting soil is often too hot for small plants. You can start seedlings in un-ferted potting soil. The cotyledons (seed leaves) will nourish seedlings for a couple weeks, depending on seed maturity.

If it doesn't get any worse, slight tip burn is no problem. Your plants will get bigger and handle the potting mix ferts just fine. In fact, you'll run out of pre-mixed ferts in 4 to 6 weeks on average. A high-wattage light setup might use the ferts faster than your particular setup.

Your pre-ferted potting mix probably has a N heavy formula. You'll need to supplement bloom nutes when you decide to flower (or supplement veg nutes if you want to continue vegging longer than usual.)
 

Stress_test

I'm always here when I'm not someplace else
Veteran
nute burn m8...classic dark leaf and fried end remedy= water, no fert till she lightens up

opus

Rather a drastic diagnosis, but close.

Ferted potting soil is often too hot for small plants. You can start seedlings in un-ferted potting soil. The cotyledons (seed leaves) will nourish seedlings for a couple weeks, depending on seed maturity.

If it doesn't get any worse, slight tip burn is no problem. Your plants will get bigger and handle the potting mix ferts just fine. In fact, you'll run out of pre-mixed ferts in 4 to 6 weeks on average. A high-wattage light setup might use the ferts faster than your particular setup.

Your pre-ferted potting mix probably has a N heavy formula. You'll need to supplement bloom nutes when you decide to flower (or supplement veg nutes if you want to continue vegging longer than usual.)


Dead on... No argument with anything DB contributes with that post. It is 100% accurate... And while it is correct and in my opinion is great advice for the OP, it isn't really addressing the problem that the OP is concerned with. "Brown leaf tips".

I wouldn't change a damn thing with what the OP is doing already.
The plants aren't showing "any" deficiencies, pests, or stresses that are common even for experienced growers.

The browning on the very tips of leaves is a tattle-tail for more than one issue: Over feeding, high temps and low humidity.

In this case, the plants aren't really "too" green, indicating nute burn nor are the tips dark or black.

My suggestion would be to raise humidity a little or lower upper temps slightly, and increase airflow/circulation.
 

yesum

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Thanks stress, I had been having this issue and flushed the plants. This is another thing to look into, as I have pretty high temps and SoCal dryness.
 

Stress_test

I'm always here when I'm not someplace else
Veteran
LOL thats what comes with 16 years cannabis growing!..see them K bars under your name? totally unsmokeable:laughing:

It's encouraging to see some of the younger generation hangin in there.

I know 16 years seems like a lot but stick with it, you'll catch on. You almost halfway caught up with the schooling and education I've put in and I learn more every day.

Hell this morning I finished creating a 4 way micro-graft onto a 10 day old clone, that's the first time I've done more than 2 at a time.

I'm surprised though that after 16 years somebody still can read the original post and pictures and conclude nute burn of all the other more obvious diagnosis. Merely on the basis of browning leaf tips, and ignoring the lack of upward leaf curl or even excessive growth.

Since the plants show only minor tip damage and are otherwise perfectly healthy plants: Logic kinda dictates that the issue lies with the more obvious lack of circulation, high temps, and low RH.

So you go ahead and argue with logic if you want...
It looks pretty basic to me.
picture.php
 

SoItShallBe

New member
Thanks Stress, since yesterday Ive got the exhaust in and I can feel a difference in the box. The plants have gotten slightly worse since my last post, should I switch soils just to cover all bases?
 

Stress_test

I'm always here when I'm not someplace else
Veteran
I'd wait and see if they pull out now that you have ventilation and it won't hurt next watering cycle and give em about half as much straight Ph'd water with 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt per gallon, and then figure to go back to your normal schedule when they're ready. They'll uptake it pretty fast usually and be thirsty for sooner than you would expect.

The epsom salt will help keep cal/mag issues from popping up as the pre-mix nutes diminish in strength.

The tips won't repair and of course will appear bigger daily because the rest of the leaf is still growing which enlarges the damaged area.

Pick out a couple leaves of healthy new growth that aren't dead and use them for a gauge.
 

Opus53

Member
It's encouraging to see some of the younger generation hangin in there.

Bless you stress:thank you: :blowbubbles:

Hell this morning I finished creating a 4 way micro-graft onto a 10 day old clone

well I really hope it throws pistols for you dude:laughing:

maybe shoot the finished product up in the budshots forum along with mine about 7 weeks time?:dance013:

Do we have a date:kissgrin: Stress_test


your infos well on mark dude:wave::huggy:but never call me close on the nute issue:wave::wave: in no way is my view drastic.....flushing would have been drastic, but im sure I never said that!

anyways that budshots forum invite in 7 weeks:dance013::headbange.......look on it as you giving me another lesson in weed growin:D
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I Think a lot of people here would look at that and say nute burn. I have plants that have had that and people post saying to back off on my feedings because of that. To much Nutrient or to hot of a soil can cause this. I posted this pic and got a message form someone that said perfect nute burn. In my case these where grown in 75f with humidity controll. Plenty of air circulation. So I would tend to agree that my issue was a burn issue.

picture.php
 
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Stress_test

I'm always here when I'm not someplace else
Veteran
I Think a lot of people here would look at that and say nute burn. I have plants that have had that and people post saying to back off on my feedings because of that. To much Nutrient or to hot of a soil can cause this. I posted this pic and got a message form someone that said perfect nute burn. In my case these where grown in 75f with humidity controll. Plenty of air circulation. So I would tend to agree that my issue was a burn issue.

picture.php

Heya Hammerhead...
I would have given the same suggestion for your plant buddy.
That picture does show a nearly classic example of early stage over fertilizing, but it isn't extreme or advanced.
The "too" green shows up well in the pic too, it shows the first stages of upward leaf curl too.

If you compare it side by side to the pictures posted by the OP the differences are pretty obvious.

I think that a lot of people see one symptom and make a conclusion, but one symptom may appear as a result of several different issues, such as the dying leaf tips which can result from: being too close to the light, low Rh, over watering, under watering, over feeding, wind burn and a handful of deficiencies.
But if the leaves curl down or roll under it is indicative of different issues.

The pictures posted by the OP show a plant that is probably watered too frequently, or before the soil is dried; the lower leaves droop slightly and progressively straighten higher up the plant until the margins curl upward at the top where temperatures are higher, this also indicates poor air circulation and ventilation, because conditions aren't consistent throughout the cabinet. Which can cause mold issues and a nice environment for mites and pests later on.

Your picture is also a plant that is late in the flowering stage when plants need less nitrogen, when you expect to see slight yellowing or fading green in the fan and larger leaves. The deep green is out of place for the stage of growth of the plant.
 
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